GotdatTSX

I recently had some koni yellows installed on my 04 TSX.

Since they been installed I've noticed a knocking sound (almost like a loose metal on metal noise)coming from the rear passenger side of the car.

Is it possible that the bushing on the shocks either need to be replaced or are worn out?

If they do need to be changed, how hard is it to change as a DIY project?

Simba91102

I doubt it's a worn..... anything. I've had mine on for almost 4 years and over 80K miles (and they're still fine). I'd bet something's loose. The rears aren't too bad to R&R, but you should remove the rear seat back to do it (some might say "just move it to the side" or some such). Or take it back to where you had them installed. Something's not right and they should fix it.

GotdatTSX

Thx for the response.

If possible, I'd like to try to fix the issue myself. I hate when you pay people good money and they forget to do something simple. Car is getting old, so I'd like to start doing as much as I can myself to save $$$.

Do you have any ideas as to what my can be loose?

I'm fairly good at fixing things, I just need some help with trying to pinpoint where things might need to be tightened.

GotdatTSX

One other question, can they be adjusted while on the car or do I need to have them off?

I read on several sites where people have had to remove them to make adjustments.

Simba91102

You could try a search (here) perhaps for the installation instructions for the A spec suspension kit. They'll include instructions for removing and replacing the seat back (it's like 2 bolts) and the rear (and front) shock/spring assemblies. You may just find that one or more of the top bolts are loose (where the top of the shock bolts to the car; 2 or 3 bolts, I forget which it is). The bottom attachments are easily visible by just looking at the suspension. If you did what I did (and it sounds that way), which was use the OE springs with the Koni shocks, there could be more going on (the springs have to be removed and then installed on the new shocks prior to installation). Again, it's all visible without any trouble (easier if you remove the tire though). Check (as best you can without removing them) and try to make sure that the springs were properly re-installed on the Koni shocks. You should have gotten a white knob with each shock that is used to adjust the damper setting of the shock on the top of the shock. The tops of the front shocks are "right there" and easy to get at, but the rears are only accessible by removing the seat back. Mine were set in the middle position when installed and I haven't touched them since. I would challenge anyone to discern the difference in the setting on the street. If you're going to track the car, it might make a difference though.

Chad05TL

I have the same problem. Replaced the sway bar links but didn't help. I checked the upper ball joint by removing the vertical arm that connects to it and the ball joint is nicely firm.

I had the Carin the shop and they said the lower ball joints are good. And I have 3 new motor mounts 10k miles ago. Even better, I have noise on all 4 wheels but its worse up front.
thinking konis are the problem.

Simba91102

Very strange. Are you sure that all 4 are making noise? It's a reach to think that they'd all start going bad at the same time. I put about 125K miles on the yellows I (had) installed over an almost 6 year period, and I never had any trouble with them (and they were still going strong when I sold the car). The only suspension noise I ever had was caused by a replacement rear sway bar link that I hadn't tightened enough.

BROlando

Is the car still on stock springs?

Chad05TL

Eibach springs.

A reach.. The common denominator on all 4 corners is koni.

I'm wondering if my konis from tunersports are real or fake.. Who knows . I doubt rubber bushings make that noise. I know they may squeak when they get old but not this noise.

BROlando

What model of eibach springs?

Are you sure you assembled all of this correctly? Its uncommon for even cheap shocks that are still working to make knocking noises. There's not much in the shock itself that could create a knocking noise. If a shock was worn badly enough to knock...there would be shock fluid and blood and urine and guts everywhere. It would be a proverbial bloodbath.

Usual culprits are loose or improperly assembled top hat bushings.

Torn bushings from improper install (not clocking bushings).

Loose bolts.

Worn sway bar links.

Simba91102

About as much of a reach as all four tires blowing out at the same time. I would suspect perhaps cockpit error.

Chad05TL

If they were delivered to me with a design flaw, then ya they can go out at once.. Which I what I experienced since I installed them on day one.

Little rattling over uneven surfaces and also a more violent bang if I go over a bump that is evenly onboth the right and left side, where the front of the car goes down a lot together from left to right. Then the whole car compresses down and both left and right side has a large vertical movement, then its much more violent. It then turns into something that was a little rattle to something obviously very wrong and banging.

Since the noise started I replaced the sway barlinks, on the front and rear and had no impact on noise. Faulty swaybar links are highly over rated as problems when they are not. And I had all 3 motor mounts replaced 10k miles ago.. So no problem there. That's also over hyped. I inspect the upper ball joint on the front and it is firm as I swivel it. Not even close to loose. And a shop inspected my ball joints and he was very confident they appear ok. The rear doesn't have ball joints. I even get a loud banging noise on the right rear if I hit a sharp and deep enough bump. And I am not on the lowest setting of the koni perch. And I don't believe rubber bushings on thelower arm can make banging or rattling noise. And certainly not the top arm either.

So shocks on all 4 corners are the common denominator. The rear does not have any ball joints.

BTW ever since day 1, I remember noise on the drivers rear side that sounded like I did t get the top but tight. So I took the seat back out and nope it was tight. It's weird. The drivers rear had a rattle, and the passengerr rear had, and still has a big bang sound if the bump is sharp enough. Just noises all around . and my car has only 76k miles. Driven only 10k miles in the past 4 yrs. So its not a high mileage car and its not a beater.. And the car has had some odd noises and some even scary noises since they have been on the car.

With all that said, the only way to know for sure is to replace them .

BROlando

"The rear doesn't have ball joints"

You should really look again.....

Chad05TL

Rear ball joints. Are u serious? Never seen that before on a wheel that doesn't turn with a steering wheel.

See I knew your first reply, you wanted to argue. That's your only goal. Just to merely argue. I know how it rolls on Azine. Been here for 5 yrs. I already know about ppl like you.

BROlando

Lol...what? The rear does have ball joints. There's no argument against it. If you're saying that you and a shop looked the car over and you missed seeing that there are ball joints in the rear suspension...you didn't check very well.


My first reply was "are you on stock springs?" MOST COMBATIVE POST 2015.

I've been extremely helpful. You can't answer simple questions like "are you sure your top hats are installed correctly?" Or "what model of Eibach springs do you have?"

Good luck.

Chad05TL

Koni. Is likely the problem.. Rear. Ball joints, if they exist, don't fail in70k miles. Hypothesis unchanged. Thanks for your wisdom

BROlando

Ok. So now there's a chance they do exist. I'm glad you're open to exploring new and sometimes scary possibilities.

Here's a quick list of cars that DEFINITELY have rear ball joints:
-S2000
-Accord
-TSX
-Nissan 240SX.

If you've never seen a rear ball joint, look through your wheel spoke at your upper control arm's ball joint.

But I guess now your "hypothesis" is that they can't fail in 70k miles, but that the most likely scenario is that Koni shocks are most likely just all faulty. And it is impossible that maybe your obviously expert install or "thorough" inspection could be to blame.

You know...I've never actually been to Wyoming. Anyone who says it exists is a liar and is arguing with me.

Chad05TL

recap: I had rattling noises coming from the rear and the front of my car. I fixed the rear by removing the koni and I placed a rubber gasket between the body and the tophat.. That was about 6 mo. to a year ago.

Yesterday morning, I found the front rattle too. I swapped out the Koni shock on the front drivers side and the rattle is gone. The Koni's have been rattling ever since new. like 4 years ago! insane.
So now I am on Kyb+ eibach..

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

LOL at KYB.

Chad05TL

better than oem, and much better than rattling koni's.. and if you want a sports car, then get out of the TL

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Take your own advice son.
I'm happy with my car ... Are you happy with yours?

Chad05TL

yes for what it is.. including the KYB. Did you have anything good to say?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Enjoy your car?

23109VC

I know this is a really old thread but I was researching clunking noises after installation of the KONI yellow shocks and I recently had all four done on my car and I’m getting a noticeable clunking sound coming from the front on the right hand side everything looks tight I can’t tell what it would be but at low speed over bumps it gets all cranky sounding and like somethings rattling there’s got to be something loose curious if you ever resolve what was actually going on with yours was a shock defective or was it something installed wrong I’m guessing in mind that Something may be loose

BROlando

Make sure everything is tight (torque wrench).

Another culprit could be a sway bar link that was damaged or loosened while doing this.

Disconnect 1 end link. Go for a drive. Is the noise still there?