Getting The Best Fuel Economy Out Of Your TSX: Tips & Tricks ::LONG READ::
09-04-2003, 07:52 PM
#41
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majormojo, you must have a big brain.
Sauceman, that is impressive mileage, no matter how you slice it.
I love my 99 Accord 5-speed - it gets fabulous mileage and excellent (decent anyway) power when I want it. I know I will not anywhere near as happy gettign less km/L in the 6 speed TSX, but life is full of tradeofs.
Sauceman, that is impressive mileage, no matter how you slice it.
I love my 99 Accord 5-speed - it gets fabulous mileage and excellent (decent anyway) power when I want it. I know I will not anywhere near as happy gettign less km/L in the 6 speed TSX, but life is full of tradeofs.
09-04-2003, 08:42 PM
#42
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Hmm. Off the top of my head:
1. If you want better gas mileage, overinflate your tires. The dealer put 35 lbs of pressure in mine, when I got my oil changed.
2. Another way to improve your gas mileage is, to reduce friction in the engine. Synthetic oil is better than conventional, especially in the winter time. I use Mobile One. The dealer charged me $40 for a Mobile One oil change at the 5000 mile mark, which I thought was a good deal.
3. In my experience, you get better gas mileage with cruise control than without it. I think that's because the cruise control I was testing this with, would back off a little as I went up hills, and pick up a little speed going down them. Whereas I tended to drive a constant speed up and down the hill.
4. There is no way in hell that I am driving this car at 55 mph on any road whatsoever. If I wanted better gas mileage, I would get a Civic. What I REALLY want is, a driving trip to Montana where I can really put the pedal to the metal. I paid my dues to humanity when I bought a car with a 4-cyl. engine. I get 24 mpg driving around town, which is a couple mpg less than my 99 Accord got, but on the other hand I don't DRIVE this car like I drove my Accord. I mean, this car is FUN to drive. 55 mph? No sir. Nope. No way.
1. If you want better gas mileage, overinflate your tires. The dealer put 35 lbs of pressure in mine, when I got my oil changed.
2. Another way to improve your gas mileage is, to reduce friction in the engine. Synthetic oil is better than conventional, especially in the winter time. I use Mobile One. The dealer charged me $40 for a Mobile One oil change at the 5000 mile mark, which I thought was a good deal.
3. In my experience, you get better gas mileage with cruise control than without it. I think that's because the cruise control I was testing this with, would back off a little as I went up hills, and pick up a little speed going down them. Whereas I tended to drive a constant speed up and down the hill.
4. There is no way in hell that I am driving this car at 55 mph on any road whatsoever. If I wanted better gas mileage, I would get a Civic. What I REALLY want is, a driving trip to Montana where I can really put the pedal to the metal. I paid my dues to humanity when I bought a car with a 4-cyl. engine. I get 24 mpg driving around town, which is a couple mpg less than my 99 Accord got, but on the other hand I don't DRIVE this car like I drove my Accord. I mean, this car is FUN to drive. 55 mph? No sir. Nope. No way.
09-04-2003, 09:47 PM
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I enjoyed the mileage lesson. I got 30.8 over 400 miles on my first tank. I drove 65 mph in my 24 mile commute and used AC on trips home in evening. I am still peeved no overdrive for 6th. For goodness sake 5th could be the performance gear for general driving and a low rpm 6th for interstate. That car with .27 cd and overdrive would get 40 easily.
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09-05-2003, 12:29 AM
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Originally posted by sauceman
The goal of the cold fuel trick is effectively to cheat and extend the mileage you do with a single tank by playing with the thermal expansion of the gas.
The goal of the cold fuel trick is effectively to cheat and extend the mileage you do with a single tank by playing with the thermal expansion of the gas.
I knew about the gas being corrected at 15°C in Canada, and I would too be curious to know what it is in the US.
So, for each cycle, the fact that there is slightly less density entering the cylinders, there ends up being more gas left in the tank after identical amounts of engine cycles when the temperature is higher.
But I would qualify this calculation as going overboard with the whole question, lol.
of going overboard to get better mileage! 
But you must be aware that in case of a car crash, a gas tank full to the neck represents a lot less risk than a tank with nearly only vapours in it.
09-05-2003, 01:14 AM
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You do have a point there too, majormojo.
And Iceman, I agree with you that amongst our society of big egoes and SUVs, buying a 4 cylinder car is already a good step towards fuel economy, and the TSX is so fun and tempting...
TSX fun
And Iceman, I agree with you that amongst our society of big egoes and SUVs, buying a 4 cylinder car is already a good step towards fuel economy, and the TSX is so fun and tempting...
TSX fun
09-05-2003, 07:41 AM
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Great post sauceman,
My favorite part is actually in your signature "Best gas mileage: 1094Km with 72 litres = 43mpg / 36 US mpg". Wow! This is the kind of information that will turn my wifes head more in the direction of the TSX rather than the Accord. I'm already compiling a list of advantage of buying the TSX over the Accord. The lifetime roadside assistance impressed her when I mentioned it last night. All I have to do now is keep a steady flow of positive information about the TSX going in her ears. Then, eventually she will forget about the other cars we've looked at and be all pumped up on the TSX.
The reason I'm pushing so badly for a TSX is because it will be my car. We're going to get a minivan soon and my wife will be driving that. (I will only drive the minivan when it's absolutely neccessary). Things are lookin' good.
My favorite part is actually in your signature "Best gas mileage: 1094Km with 72 litres = 43mpg / 36 US mpg". Wow! This is the kind of information that will turn my wifes head more in the direction of the TSX rather than the Accord. I'm already compiling a list of advantage of buying the TSX over the Accord. The lifetime roadside assistance impressed her when I mentioned it last night. All I have to do now is keep a steady flow of positive information about the TSX going in her ears. Then, eventually she will forget about the other cars we've looked at and be all pumped up on the TSX.
The reason I'm pushing so badly for a TSX is because it will be my car. We're going to get a minivan soon and my wife will be driving that. (I will only drive the minivan when it's absolutely neccessary). Things are lookin' good.
09-05-2003, 08:50 AM
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Originally posted by hambone
The reason I'm pushing so badly for a TSX is because it will be my car. We're going to get a minivan soon and my wife will be driving that. (I will only drive the minivan when it's absolutely neccessary). Things are lookin' good.
The reason I'm pushing so badly for a TSX is because it will be my car. We're going to get a minivan soon and my wife will be driving that. (I will only drive the minivan when it's absolutely neccessary). Things are lookin' good.
09-05-2003, 10:24 AM
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Tremendous post, Sauceman. Great work.
One tweak: the drafting thing (trucks or cars) seems like bad advice.
To make any signifigant difference, you'd have to drive dangerously close behind the other vehicle. There'd be no reaction time whatsoever.
That's just a microscopic chink in otherwise great armor. Thanks.
One tweak: the drafting thing (trucks or cars) seems like bad advice.
To make any signifigant difference, you'd have to drive dangerously close behind the other vehicle. There'd be no reaction time whatsoever.
That's just a microscopic chink in otherwise great armor. Thanks.
09-05-2003, 12:25 PM
#49
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True that. The closer you get, the better draft, and the more rocks and shizzit you get.
At the distance I suggested (125-150ft), though not as good, you still get some draft, especially on windy days, but you won't feel it in the car, but it's there. If you want to know how long a truck draft is, try and check out in the winter on a snowy road, how long the draft is by looking at how far behind all the snow gets caught up in the turbulence, before stabilizing and settling back down. It can be well over 300ft long.
At the distance I suggested (125-150ft), though not as good, you still get some draft, especially on windy days, but you won't feel it in the car, but it's there. If you want to know how long a truck draft is, try and check out in the winter on a snowy road, how long the draft is by looking at how far behind all the snow gets caught up in the turbulence, before stabilizing and settling back down. It can be well over 300ft long.
09-06-2003, 01:32 AM
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Originally posted by lgregoir
Let me know if you ever want to know how to get really bad gas mileage... I seem to be an expert in this field. :-)
Let me know if you ever want to know how to get really bad gas mileage... I seem to be an expert in this field. :-)
09-18-2003, 11:22 AM
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Originally posted by XPLORx4
And I'm sure I could give some expert advice as well... I managed to get a whopping 16mpg on one recent fill-up.
And I'm sure I could give some expert advice as well... I managed to get a whopping 16mpg on one recent fill-up.
Ok, just to give a small update, I'm back from NC, an absolutely crazy trip, but that's another story, but coming back, I collected a bit of imprecise data, but it should still give a good hint.
1st gas tank, was going to achieve around 600 miles with a full gas tank (about 18 gals), driving at 70, packed so full the back end was almost dragging, and with the AC, but I found a Flying J at Delaware memorial bridge, so I filled up early.
2nd gas tank, same distance, driving at 75, no AC 2/3 of distance, and with the same load.
By comparison, my friends Protegé 5 who was caravanning with us, used a little less than a gallon of gas to travel those same distances, driving the same way, and at the same speeds.
09-18-2003, 11:47 AM
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Originally posted by sauceman
By comparison, my friends Protegé 5 who was caravanning with us, used a little less than a gallon of gas to travel those same distances, driving the same way, and at the same speeds.
By comparison, my friends Protegé 5 who was caravanning with us, used a little less than a gallon of gas to travel those same distances, driving the same way, and at the same speeds.
09-18-2003, 11:58 AM
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Re: Getting The Best Fuel Economy Out Of Your TSX: Tips & Tricks ::LONG READ::
Originally posted by sauceman
That being said, the popular belief says that if you want a truely economical car, go the diesel route. That belief is false, though I will not expand on this, but if you take into account the added costs of buying a car with a diesel engine, maintenance and repair costs, the little added fuel economy you will actually gain over a well driven Civic (not talking hybrid here), will be completely overweighed by those added costs. When VW says that you can achieve 775miles with a single tank of diesel on their TDI's, they are right, but what they don't say, is that you have to drive at a constant whopping 44mph to attain this number, which is plainly unrealistic, and usually also dangerous.
That being said, the popular belief says that if you want a truely economical car, go the diesel route. That belief is false, though I will not expand on this, but if you take into account the added costs of buying a car with a diesel engine, maintenance and repair costs, the little added fuel economy you will actually gain over a well driven Civic (not talking hybrid here), will be completely overweighed by those added costs. When VW says that you can achieve 775miles with a single tank of diesel on their TDI's, they are right, but what they don't say, is that you have to drive at a constant whopping 44mph to attain this number, which is plainly unrealistic, and usually also dangerous.
The same tricks that you use to stretch mileage on a gas engine also work in a diesel. Maintenance costs in the long haul are about the same as a gas engine. (Although overall engine life can be much longer as a diesel engine is subjected to much less thermal stress than an equivalent gas engine. Diesel engines with 1,000,000 miles on them are not all that rare)
IMHO, it's strictly a payback thing. You pay X dollars more for the car, drive Y miles per year, and (after all the figuring) save Z dollars per year. If you're going to keep the car longer than X/Z years, then it makes financial sense. Otherwise, it doesn't. The higher the cost of gas, the quicker the payback period, which is why diesels are enormously popular in Europe where gas prices are higher.
09-18-2003, 12:32 PM
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Originally posted by XPLORx4
Whoa, you lost me. Are you saying your friend's P5 got 600 miles per gallon?
Whoa, you lost me. Are you saying your friend's P5 got 600 miles per gallon?
09-18-2003, 03:07 PM
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Originally posted by sauceman
No, not what I'm saying. He couldn't last up to 600 miles, which is also why we stopped at Flying J's. But with the same distance travelled, he has burned not even a gallon in fuel less than I had with the TSX.
No, not what I'm saying. He couldn't last up to 600 miles, which is also why we stopped at Flying J's. But with the same distance travelled, he has burned not even a gallon in fuel less than I had with the TSX.
09-18-2003, 03:12 PM
#58
Re: Getting The Best Fuel Economy Out Of Your TSX: Tips & Tricks ::LONG READ::
Originally posted by sauceman
- Another trick, (although truckers don't like this), is following them at a safe distance, in the areas of 125-150 ft behind, and try and take advantage of their draft. This can save you as much as 30% of gas, but I doubt any trucker will let you stick to his ass for more than 15 minutes without trying to get rid of you, lol. Same goes for cars. Following cars is always better than leading as far as air draft is concerned, especially on windy days.
- Also, if someone is drafting on you, it is not a good thing, because it increases the low air pressure behind your car, thus slowly dragging you to slower speeds, and forcing your to consume more gas.
- Another trick, (although truckers don't like this), is following them at a safe distance, in the areas of 125-150 ft behind, and try and take advantage of their draft. This can save you as much as 30% of gas, but I doubt any trucker will let you stick to his ass for more than 15 minutes without trying to get rid of you, lol. Same goes for cars. Following cars is always better than leading as far as air draft is concerned, especially on windy days.
- Also, if someone is drafting on you, it is not a good thing, because it increases the low air pressure behind your car, thus slowly dragging you to slower speeds, and forcing your to consume more gas.
09-23-2003, 06:54 AM
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I have a 6sp man and last three tanks for all over 420 miles each
1. 30.68 mpg
2. 30.92 mpg
3. 31.88 mpg
My milegage keeps going up. Keep in mind mixed interstate city commute 85/15 % but with general around town driving here and there. I am very happy with this and will switch to Mobil 1 0w30 the next oil change for a few more tenths. I run 65-70 mph. I suspect 70 plus has negative mpg consequences in a hurry.
INKY
1. 30.68 mpg
2. 30.92 mpg
3. 31.88 mpg
My milegage keeps going up. Keep in mind mixed interstate city commute 85/15 % but with general around town driving here and there. I am very happy with this and will switch to Mobil 1 0w30 the next oil change for a few more tenths. I run 65-70 mph. I suspect 70 plus has negative mpg consequences in a hurry.
INKY
09-23-2003, 08:49 AM
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Originally posted by inkytawney
I run 65-70 mph. I suspect 70 plus has negative mpg consequences in a hurry.
INKY
I run 65-70 mph. I suspect 70 plus has negative mpg consequences in a hurry.
INKY
A steady 55 mph probably uses 15-20% less gas than a steady 70 mph (but who can stand to go that slowly)
09-28-2003, 02:11 AM
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Originally posted by XPLORx4
So if I understand you correctly, you're saying that the P5 and the TSX got about the same fuel economy, but the P5 has a smaller fuel tank so its range is smaller.
So if I understand you correctly, you're saying that the P5 and the TSX got about the same fuel economy, but the P5 has a smaller fuel tank so its range is smaller.
BTW, sorry for the late answer, I was out again for another week or so.
09-28-2003, 05:17 AM
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Sauceman, you said in the other thread that you know exactly how much gas is left in the tank when the fuel light comes on. Care to share that info with us? Also, how much fuel is left when the gage hits empty? My guesstimate is about 1.5 gals.
09-28-2003, 09:21 AM
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First, you have to know that for some reason I don't know, the time when the fuel light goes on in my car does not necessarily reflect when it will light up in your car, even though both are same year model TSXs. So if you try and apply my measures to your car, just don't blame me if you run short, lol, if you want to try it, carry an extra gallon of gas in the trunk just in case.
Well, on a good warm summer day, when driving at or very close to my fuel efficiency level, I can drive around with the gas light open for about 210 km / 131 miles. This is at 43mpg / 36USmpg.
So, doing the conversions and all, at that rate, you burn one litre of gas every 15.1 km, or one US gallon every 35.7 miles.
That means that if your car is like mine, the moment the empty gas light lights up, it means you have roughly 13½ driveable litres of gas left in the tank, or 3½ US gals.
Also, when my gas light goes on, 85 km later, the gas needle crosses empty.
Note that this is in near ideal conditions during summertime.in wintertime, you'd have to reduce these numbers by at least 30% to be safe.
Well, on a good warm summer day, when driving at or very close to my fuel efficiency level, I can drive around with the gas light open for about 210 km / 131 miles. This is at 43mpg / 36USmpg.
So, doing the conversions and all, at that rate, you burn one litre of gas every 15.1 km, or one US gallon every 35.7 miles.
That means that if your car is like mine, the moment the empty gas light lights up, it means you have roughly 13½ driveable litres of gas left in the tank, or 3½ US gals.
Also, when my gas light goes on, 85 km later, the gas needle crosses empty.
Note that this is in near ideal conditions during summertime.in wintertime, you'd have to reduce these numbers by at least 30% to be safe.
09-29-2003, 11:41 AM
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Originally posted by sauceman
Also, when my gas light goes on, 85 km later, the gas needle crosses empty.
Also, when my gas light goes on, 85 km later, the gas needle crosses empty.
09-29-2003, 12:30 PM
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Yes, definitely.
Actually, you would still have at least the equivalent distance left from the point the light came on to the exact point where the needle hit the empty line, after the needle hit that line. Get me?
Actually, you would still have at least the equivalent distance left from the point the light came on to the exact point where the needle hit the empty line, after the needle hit that line. Get me?
09-29-2003, 03:45 PM
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I think. For example...
"Low Fuel" light glows. Gallons left = 3.5
Needle hits left edge of the red "E" line. Gallons left = 1.75
Right?
The interesting thing to find out would be how much gas is REALLY in the tank when your car sputters out of fuel. I've run out of gas in my truck before, and I filled up nearly 1 gallon less than rated capacity. If the gas level is too low, I think fuel sloshing around in the tank allows air to enter the fuel line and cause sputtering. This is probably exaggerated if the bottom of the tank has a large flat surface area; 1 gallon of gas spread over 8 square feet doesn't have much height.
"Low Fuel" light glows. Gallons left = 3.5
Needle hits left edge of the red "E" line. Gallons left = 1.75
Right?
The interesting thing to find out would be how much gas is REALLY in the tank when your car sputters out of fuel. I've run out of gas in my truck before, and I filled up nearly 1 gallon less than rated capacity. If the gas level is too low, I think fuel sloshing around in the tank allows air to enter the fuel line and cause sputtering. This is probably exaggerated if the bottom of the tank has a large flat surface area; 1 gallon of gas spread over 8 square feet doesn't have much height.
09-29-2003, 04:27 PM
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Yeah. I think you're right all the way.
I'd think that the reason why there is about a gallon left when the car sputters out is maybe the gas intake is higher than the bottom in order to prevent sediment from entering the gas line. But don't quote me on this, it is just what I suppose.
I'd think that the reason why there is about a gallon left when the car sputters out is maybe the gas intake is higher than the bottom in order to prevent sediment from entering the gas line. But don't quote me on this, it is just what I suppose.
05-12-2004, 06:19 PM
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Time to bring this thread back from the dead, since many (especially members who weren't there last summer) may be interested in compensating gas price raises by better fuel efficiency.
Good luck to those who try.
Good luck to those who try.
05-12-2004, 08:41 PM
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Think you draft info is a little off.
Don't really agree with the diesel comments either, hopefully honda will bring theirs. Someone who commutes alot could absorb the extra cost of the tdi engine in less than 2yrs at current gas prices.
Don't really agree with the diesel comments either, hopefully honda will bring theirs. Someone who commutes alot could absorb the extra cost of the tdi engine in less than 2yrs at current gas prices.
05-12-2004, 09:34 PM
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2. Physical / Environmental Factors
We get all sorts of weather all year round, and varying weather can greatly affect fuel economy for a car. Here are a few ways to make the best of different weathers.
For all weathers, heat needs to be kept under the hood as much as possible without overheating the car. Heat being mainly energy loss coming from the engine, you want to use it while you still have it.
All parts that are lubricated work better with some sort of heat. This is especially true during winter. When these parts are cold, they will start producing their own heat. Why not use the one that is radiated from the engine to keep all other accessories warm, except for the battery.
The battery needs to be as well insulated from the engine bay's heat as possible though, since it will hinder it's performance and cause the alternator to compensate, and thus adding more drag on the engine.
To keep the heat inside the hood, it is good to insulate it. (will be discussed in the cold weather section) This is especially true with most Hondas since they have engines that don't produce much heat. Keeping the engine bay hot will let parts like the exhaust and cat do their job right, the O2 sensor will be able to command a more accurate air / fuel mixture. Also, and this goes against the laws of performance, but the more the intake air is hot, the less dense it is, so the ECU will adjust the ratio and end up needing less fuel. You will slightly lose power this way, but also save up on gas.
A good insulated engine bay will also help keep the heat inside longer, hopefully reducing the amount of cold starts to a minimum, which are pretty hard on gas. This especially helps during winter months, when more engine starts are very cold starts.
We get all sorts of weather all year round, and varying weather can greatly affect fuel economy for a car. Here are a few ways to make the best of different weathers.
For all weathers, heat needs to be kept under the hood as much as possible without overheating the car. Heat being mainly energy loss coming from the engine, you want to use it while you still have it.
All parts that are lubricated work better with some sort of heat. This is especially true during winter. When these parts are cold, they will start producing their own heat. Why not use the one that is radiated from the engine to keep all other accessories warm, except for the battery.
The battery needs to be as well insulated from the engine bay's heat as possible though, since it will hinder it's performance and cause the alternator to compensate, and thus adding more drag on the engine.
To keep the heat inside the hood, it is good to insulate it. (will be discussed in the cold weather section) This is especially true with most Hondas since they have engines that don't produce much heat. Keeping the engine bay hot will let parts like the exhaust and cat do their job right, the O2 sensor will be able to command a more accurate air / fuel mixture. Also, and this goes against the laws of performance, but the more the intake air is hot, the less dense it is, so the ECU will adjust the ratio and end up needing less fuel. You will slightly lose power this way, but also save up on gas.
A good insulated engine bay will also help keep the heat inside longer, hopefully reducing the amount of cold starts to a minimum, which are pretty hard on gas. This especially helps during winter months, when more engine starts are very cold starts.
Engines have optimum operating temperatures. Usually 180-190 degrees. This is measured to provide best performance (and your point was to save the most on gas). The engine swells when it is hot and wears more, just as it contracts when cold. (This also occurs in the tranny, the fluid thins, slips, increases clutch wear, slower shifts.)Why you would want your car to get as hot as possible w\o overheating is beyond me. Your fuel lines heat up. The mixture dets earlier. Cylinder temps increase, the ECU richens the mixture to keep the cylinders cool and kill pre-det. Also, you'll see that you are burning more oil.
The exhaust gases are plenty hot enough to keep the cat at temp. Insulating the hood will not effect that.
If this is your theory, I have to disagree. If you have proof, Ill be very surprised its true.
I get 30mpg. I drive plenty spirited and have lots of fun. Ill try keeping it under 70 for a week and see what I experience.
Either way, hell of a frekin write up!
05-13-2004, 05:25 AM
#72
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heyitsme, the drafting info for the two cars make a lot of sense. I didn't see it that way, but now I edited the write-up. As for drafting trucks, I'm not what it's supposed to mean, but I can tell you by experience there are definitely big gains to be made by following them closely enough. You will actually feel the pull. This effect is increased when you're driving a larger vehicle. I was once driving a 16' cube, and it was amazing the pull there was when I drafted another truck.
tsXgtp, when I'm talking of keep the engine hot, I don't mean hotter than what it should be. This would not be good for the engine internals as you say. Keep in mind though, that I am referring to cold winter months. I have seen with the TSX this winter, that this car too needs to be better insulated as well, probably by covering up a part of the radiator. This is because I found that at temperatures below 15°C the coolant's temperaure didn't heat up enough when either at idle or even during slow and smooth city driving. This when it will be important to make sure you keep as much heat under the hood as possible, and the longer possible, in order to reduce the amounts of cold starts. You don't want this happening every time you shut the engine off for 20-30 minutes.
When engines are hot enough, this is when they suffer the less wear, and it's also when they will consume the less gas. Ask any taxi cab driver.
tsXgtp, when I'm talking of keep the engine hot, I don't mean hotter than what it should be. This would not be good for the engine internals as you say. Keep in mind though, that I am referring to cold winter months. I have seen with the TSX this winter, that this car too needs to be better insulated as well, probably by covering up a part of the radiator. This is because I found that at temperatures below 15°C the coolant's temperaure didn't heat up enough when either at idle or even during slow and smooth city driving. This when it will be important to make sure you keep as much heat under the hood as possible, and the longer possible, in order to reduce the amounts of cold starts. You don't want this happening every time you shut the engine off for 20-30 minutes.
When engines are hot enough, this is when they suffer the less wear, and it's also when they will consume the less gas. Ask any taxi cab driver.
05-13-2004, 11:37 PM
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Originally posted by heyitsme
I'm a bit of draft whore and if you're close enough, you barely need any gas to maintain 100-110 km/h. I try to find "clean" trucks that aren't kicking up any stones. My favourite are trailer-less rigs that have large fairings on top.
Another trick used by race drivers, is if you want to pass, accelerate in their draft, since it uses far less energy. Pop out at the last moment with a speed advantage and minimize your exposure to the airstream.
05-14-2004, 05:06 AM
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Originally posted by kiteboy
Another trick used by race drivers, is if you want to pass, accelerate in their draft, since it uses far less energy. Pop out at the last moment with a speed advantage and minimize your exposure to the airstream.
Another trick used by race drivers, is if you want to pass, accelerate in their draft, since it uses far less energy. Pop out at the last moment with a speed advantage and minimize your exposure to the airstream.
05-14-2004, 09:09 AM
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are you sure about 120-150 ft? I've only gained by being 12-15 behind a truck... which truckers hate. 120-150 is a lot for the effect to work.
in a CVT car (like in my hybrid) i know I'm in the draft when my rpms drop and still maintain the same speed that I was going prior to getting the draft.
in a CVT car (like in my hybrid) i know I'm in the draft when my rpms drop and still maintain the same speed that I was going prior to getting the draft.
05-14-2004, 11:59 AM
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I get consistent 30-31 mpg and that's driving 60% highway at 75-80mph and 40% city where I drive 35mph on average..
My mileage keeps improving as well...and it would interesting to see what an entire highway trip my TSX would get.
Considering I am having fun with the TSX (recently outran a Saab 9-3 ) AND getting great mileage I'm very pleased and REALLY glad that I didn't buy a V6 Accord or Mazda 6 after all...
Love my TSX !
My mileage keeps improving as well...and it would interesting to see what an entire highway trip my TSX would get.
Considering I am having fun with the TSX (recently outran a Saab 9-3 ) AND getting great mileage I'm very pleased and REALLY glad that I didn't buy a V6 Accord or Mazda 6 after all...
Love my TSX !
05-14-2004, 08:56 PM
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Originally posted by DEVO
are you sure about 120-150 ft? I've only gained by being 12-15 behind a truck... which truckers hate. 120-150 is a lot for the effect to work.
are you sure about 120-150 ft? I've only gained by being 12-15 behind a truck... which truckers hate. 120-150 is a lot for the effect to work.
05-14-2004, 09:35 PM
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Obviously though, the effect isn't as good as if you were tucked 10ft behind, but it isn't a safe way of driving. If ever the truck was headed for the ditch, you'd follow him there too.
By experience, at 100ft, you can get up to 30% gains in efficiency under normal driving conditions.
09-01-2004, 03:49 PM
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Not sure if this was mentioned yet, but I think that the less gas you have in your tank the more fuel you'll be able to save. Less gas = less weight = better mpg.
I was able to save about $50 last month by always filling to just half a tank of gas instead of filling up.
I was able to save about $50 last month by always filling to just half a tank of gas instead of filling up.