SidhuSaaB

Hey everyone,
I looked a lot of places, asked questions to a lot of people but didn't get the answer I needed. So, finally I am making a thread on it. If the thread doesn't belong here, admins: Please move it to appropriate place if needed.

I had factory sound system and one day I decided to add a subwoofer to it. I thought it will be a cake walk, so I installed the 4AWG wiring kit and Kenwood KAC9104D Monoblock AMP. I tapped into the rear 6X9s and fed the signal to the SPL input on the AMP. Therefore, I didnt need a LOC to convert the signals for me.
After a week of wait, I got my Alpine Type R Sub SWR-12D4. My amp pushes 900W RMS at 2 ohms and my sub is Dual 4 ohm. I am able to connect my sub at 2ohms to the amp and it should work, atleast in the theory.
I disconnected my rear 6X9s and conected the sub to the AMP. Then checked all the settings on the AMP and they look good. I turn my stereo on and hear some bass. Turned the volume up to 34 and I heard it ok.
Finally, I figured that my sub wasn't pounding that hard than it should. I tried chaning the settings on AMP, on the stereo but nothing helped.
This is my current setup: http://www.flickr.com/photos/9555382...n/photostream/

My real question come now. Sorry for the long story but I wanted to explain everything.
1. Is the sub feeling weak because of my factory AMP or the Factory Stereo; It has to be one of them.
2. If I add another aftermarket stereo, can i run my OEM door speakers without needing a 4 channel amplifier?

I am thinking of doing something like this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/9555382...in/photostream

demitrix

I originally ran my first amp/sub combo off of speaker level input, it worked just fine, so I'm not sure why you arent getting the sound youre looking for.

As far as your new setup, I opted to go with a multi-channel amp. I have a CarPC, which runs to 2 a 5 channel amp, a R600-5 to be exact, I bridged the door speaker channels and ran only from components, a set of Precision Power a2.65c. All in all I'm pushing about 150 watts to the doors, and about 400 to my sub (Pioneer TS-W309D4) (the amp was rated from the factory for 700 watts). This setup seemed to make the most sense. I'm no car audio expert, but I would do something similar instead of running the speakers straight from the head unit.

This setup make enough noise to make a few things in my car rattle but isnt extremely loud. If you aren't getting enough sound from your current setup, I would check the amp or the wiring from the 6x9 to the speaker level inputs.

So to answer your questions.
1. Double check everything, if the 6x9s make noise when they are plugged in, then the issue is between the plugs there and your sub.
2. Yes. Although I feel like for the extra work, the sound quality is worth it to run a multichannel amp. Best choice would be to leave the sub on the mono block and add another amp for the doors.

SidhuSaaB

Hey Thanks Demitrix for your input. I found out where the problem was. All the connections were right. It was stupid of me to get a box that wasn't complying the Alpine standards for the sub. I had a sealed bassworx box, very small box and that was my point of failure. I got a custom vented built-like-a-tank box for the sub and WOW, the sub pounds hard like there were 2 of them there.
Now All I have to get it the trunk dampening kit coz of all the rattles.

I'm adding an after market stereo head soon just to get better sound quality and a 4-channel amp for the doors.

demitrix

Good choices and glad you got it figured out.

I didn't even think about the box. I had a custom built sealed box, still hits pretty hard, but I gave a little over a cubic foot of air. I dunno if you'll have similar issues or not but my 3rd taillight rattles against the rear window so watch out for that.

SidhuSaaB

Thats why i was confused. My connections were right, wiring was good couldn't figure where the problem was. I am happy I did. lol

What sub do you have? Mine is 1000w RMS alpine and since I have the factory spoiler, I get rattles from my license plate and the spoiler. I dint check the third light but one of the screws on my spoiler is missing, so I am thinking the spoiler is rattling coz of that.

demitrix

I have a Pioneer TS-W309D4, its 400w RMS, and is getting about 400w from my amp. I only have a few minor interior rattles, the 3rd taillight being the worst. Nothing exterior rattles, which makes me happy

SidhuSaaB

Nice... I get 900W RMS, in theory, from my AMP. I checked my third light, it doesn't rattle that much... same as my rear view mirror. But mu trunk/spoiler rattles more than a rattle snake !

I have to get it deadened.

Coz I drive solo and have no passengers, I drop down my rear seats and let the bass come out from there instead of shaking my trunk.

sameoldmacho

nicee I didn't know the a sealed box didn't allow the sub to pound to its potential.

demitrix

sameoldmacho, sealed vs ported achieve different qualities. I for one don't want a ported box in my car.

SidhuSaaB

Thats wat i thought. If you have a bigger sub its better to put it in a ported box BIG ENOUGH to do the trick.
Here's a comparison:
Bandpass:

--Positives
-Loudest box design for a given sub.

--Negatives
-Narrow range of frequencies
-Complex to build
-Hard (or impossible) to hear distortion, so expensive equipment is needed to tune an amp to a bandpass box.

Ported/Vented:

--Positives
-Louder than sealed if built properly.
-Plays a wider range of frequencies than bandpass.
-Easier to build/tune than bandpass.

--Negatives
-Harder to build than sealed.
-Possibility of port noise.
-If built wrong it CAN reduce power handling of subwoofer.

Passive Radiator

--Positives
-Similar to ported but uses a passive speaker (no motor) instead of an air column to increase low range extension.
-Less chance of 'port noise' as the box is technically sealed.

--Negatives
-More expensive, have to buy a complex passive driver as well as a subwoofer.

Sealed

--Positives
-Generally the easiest to build
-Generally cheapest to build. 6 pieces of wood, one hole.
-Highest control of woofer. Box acts as an air spring returning it to 0º position after every hit.
-Can be built smaller than all the other box designs.

--Negatives
-Lowest efficiency (Quieter than all other sub designs)
-Less low range extension (Doesn't play as deep)