JTso

iTrader: (2)

The part number is 12377916. Synchromesh - Friction Modified.

CGTSX07

thank you ..gonna give it a try within the next couple weeks

Redlantrn

Just picked up 3 qts. today at GM dealership for $13 ea. I reccomend calling dealerships with part number 12377916 handy, as Chevy had none, but GM had 3 on hand.

PittIsIt

good morning
found this thread with a search (gold star for me)

I just had Master Cylinder and fluid replaced (lines bled, etc)

Is this different? I drive a 6MT with 41,300 mi and the MID says B 13 Service, and they're doing it now for $69 or something at the dealer.

I dont want to pay for something that's already been done

and why would the MID tell me to do it if the manual says 60k miles?

PittIsIt

ok no one responded, i had the service done and the car shifts and engages more smoothly with the fluid changed. Just odd the MID wanted it done after 42k when the manual says 60k (extreme)

any feedback?

SpideRider

The master cylinder and associated lines are for the braking system, not the transmission.

nj2pa2nc

my 06 6MT is now due for the A13 service (first time for transmission fluid check) and it has 67,156 miles. I do mostly highway driving.

PittIsIt

wow. i wonder if its cause of driving style. most of my miles are highway as well, but i love to high rev on on ramps, etc.

my master cylinder assembly was replaced when my clutch squeaked, thats what prompet my question regarding their linkage...
i think i've gotten the answer to my original question

Thanks.

LukeaTron

What you're describing is not unusual. The oil in the MT does get broken down over time as well as collects contaminants, mostly from the synchro disks which are like little clutch packs. When you change the fluid everything is back at it's peak slipperiness.

In regards to the bit about the master cylinder and all, that's completely different. The clutch is actuated hydraulically and this system of master cylinder (at the pedal) reservoir, lines and slave cylinder (bolted onto the side of the transmission) is what was serviced the first time. It's odd that they replaced the whole slave cylinder for a squeak. Every MT Honda I've ever owned has gotten that squeak eventually and the fix is to remove the slave cylinder and put a bit of grease on the end of piston where it contacts the throwout arm. It's because of the way Honda designs this mechanism. The problem could be permanently fixed with the addition of a plastic cap on the end of the slave piston but they've been using the exact same occasionally squeaky mechanism for at least 18 years now. It surprises me that any Honda tech wouldn't know how to fix it right off the top of his/her head. It's extremely common and the fix takes all of 10 minutes.

PittIsIt

LukeaTron, I must say i am incredibly impressed with your wealth of knowledge.

Only the best from the Burgh.

Thank you to your thorough and well detailed responses to my novice, inexperienced questions. (and on my squeaky steering wheel questions too!)

LukeaTron

Thanks. I'm an inherently curious person and I seem to be blessed with a really good memory for little details.

The Steelers are looking real good down this last stretch here. They just need the offense to start making a few more points. Even just a couple would be good enough with the ungodly defense they've been throwing down. But I digress...

markgpz

I just found this site about an hour ago as I was looking for information on changing the trans fluid in my 04 TSX 6mt as the owners manual does not show the location of the drain plug only the check level bolt located on the drivers side of the trans.

I am surprised that everyone is trying to re-fill the trans through the check bolt location. On page 258 of my 04 TSX owners manual they show the location of the filler bolt (17mm head) that is located on top of the transmission just in front of the left axel shaft and all the way to drivers side of the top of the trans. This is where the new trans fluid is added and when full it should be to the top of the opening of the check bolt.

I had a 04 MDX and it uses the same method to fill the trans axel

djpinoy

Here's a link to a DIY on how to replace the manual transmission fluid, as done on a 2004 TSX:

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I saw this too in the owner's manual, but after looking at it a bunch of different ways, I couldn't find a way to loosen this guy up as it's in a really awkward position. So, I opted to fill through the check bolt opening (still a bit of a pain to get to, but easy to do if you've got a funnel with a hose).

My local dealership had the MTF in stock and it was only a dollar or two more expensive than what I could get at Autozone - so I opted for the Acura MTF.

Again, many thanks to the folks here on Acurazine for providing lots of good info on this and other DIYs - these days, it helps to do this stuff yourself and save a bit of cash...

nj2pa2nc

Update-they checked the manual transmission fluid and told me it did not have to be changed. I now have 86,000+miles.

curls

I'm planning to change my MTF on Wednesday and want your opinion on something.

Since the manual specifies that the capacity is 2L (2.1qt) for a manual transmission, my gut tells me that I should buy only 2L. Drain the old fluid out and since the drain plug is at the bottom of the transmission, it should get all of the old fluid out (save for maybe 0.1L or something insignificant). Once the drain plug is back in, I'd add exactly 2L via either the top or side holes, and be done with it. It saves having to mess with a perfectly level car, which frankly is nearly impossible to achieve in a driveway.

Basic reasoning: Capacity is 2L, so I'll add 2L. I won't add more since if it seems to 'need' more, it's probably because my car isn't 100% level and I'm over-filling the transmission.

What are your thoughts?

PACman

Hey Curls,

Not sure why Honda engineers made the capacity 2.1 qt, then sell 1 qt bottles. They should make a MTF kit (2.1qt bottle) which includes the replacement washers. I've replaced my MTF 3x. I did use a leveler to generally make sure my car was flat as could be while on jacks. My 1st MTF change, I only had 2 quarts on hand, filled the rest with 5W-30 and left it at that until I changed it again.
At this point, it's not terribly expensive for Honda MTF. Buy a 3rd qt, save the rest for next time.

dP-

I had it perfectly level (measured on the hood of my car), and used 3 bottles. On the third, i was surprised at how much I had to add to get it to overflow. I did have some spillage using the pump system I used to get the fluid back in, but more than 2.1. I would estimate maybe 2.3 or 2.4Qts.

curls

Ok so I got 3 litres (quarts, approx) but it was from a Honda dealer here (same price as Acura, but 15km closer). The part numbers are the same, but the Honda one has a "C" at the end, and Acura supposedly has an "A" at the end (but that's only confirmed on US-market MTF). I would expect the stuff is the same seeing as it has the same part number, but does anyone know for sure?

curls

For all you Canadians, the bottles sold in Canada (w/ part number ending with a "C" from Honda), are 1 Litre. 2L = 2.1 Quarts. So you should only need 2 bottles of the Honda/Acura MTF to do the job.

I just completed the fluid change on my 6MT and it was pretty simple when using about 24" of 3/8" I.D. clear hose, and a funnel on the end of it. Mine took exactly 2 litres to start dripping from the hole, so I guess I had my car perfectly level (I did level it via the strut tower bar, and the side frame rail).

Shifting is buttery again. Well, even butterierer than before.

RogerPodacter

So i drained my manual tranny fluid 2 weeks ago and man was the old stuff black and dirty. But now the new stuff is in there and it made a huge difference! Shifting is buttery smooth.

I bought 3 quarts from honda and ended up using about 2.3 quarts by roughly estimating during filling.

Since i couldn't reach the fill valve, i just used the check valve to fill up. I jacked up the car and removed the front left tire. Bought a funnel and long tube from kragen's and just used gravity to fill.

curls

BTW, for those adding more than 2.2L (~2.3 quarts), you are over-filling the case. The capacity at drain/fill (assuming LEVEL ground) is 2.0L (2.1 quarts) and the capacity from overhaul (totally empty) is 2.2L (2.324 quarts). So even if it wasn't dripping from the check/fill hole after adding 2.1 quarts, you should have stopped. Especially-so if you put in more than 2.3 quarts.

Now, what that might do to the transmission is anyone's guess. Mine is that it isn't the end of the world, but there's proably a very slight chance that the transmission oil will foam up a bit more than normal if its above a certain threshold. How much difference could 0.2 quarts make though? Probably nothing to be worried about.

V-dub-R

Find c-speedracing website

then click on 'How-To's' and look for Change transmission fluid

V-dub-R

Acura dealer in Canada washer numbers are: (94109-20000) $1.66 and (94109-14000) $0.72

redpoint

Is the Acura fluid a synthetic or semi-synthetic? I've been reading up on a fuel economy forum and people are claiming better fuel fuel economy with synthetics.

Any alternatives that are preferred to the Acura stuff? What do you use?

Simba91102

Why do so many seem to feel the need to re-invent the wheel? The Honda fluid is recommended and works fine, so why try something else? Fuel economy? Believe what you want, but I'm pretty sure that getting stuck in a couple of stop and goes on your way to work will have more effect on a tank of gas than any change in fluid will.

redpoint

I bought the TSX for fuel economy, among other things (phenomenal 6-speed). If I could get better mpg by using a different fluid when it comes time to change it, why not? Lightweight pulleys and carbon fiber hoods are an even less useful topic, but people are still curious. BTW, I get the same mpg in stop and go traffic as I do at steady freeway cruising.

The Honda shop told me to only use expensive Honda conventional oil in my motorcycle. I found I could use a less expensive synthetic that performs better, so that's what I use now. Just because it says Acura on the label doesn't mean it's the best. The lack of technical data on the bottles of Acura fluid makes me even more doubtful of the magic contained within.

Simba91102

I understand your skepticism, and as a rule, I may join you. But it's a fairly consensus opinion (here anyway) by those that have been doing their own maintenance on Honda/Acura automobiles for any length of time, in most applications (certainly transmissions), it actually is the best practice to use Honda fluids. And though I agree with that consensus, I'm just the messenger. You may actually find a product that performs as well or better, but after how many tries and how much wasted material and effort?

04.tsx

does anyone have a DYI write up on and 04 tsx manual transmission flush? I cant seem to locate the filler bolt. I found the drain bolt but thats all. All i can find on the internet are TLs. Anyone can lead me in the right direction would be much appreciated.

Simba91102

Pretty sure you can find a diagram in that common but under used resource known as the.... owner's manual.

rtea2008

iTrader: (2)

I don't know if this would help, but I have pics from my '06


It's that silver bolt next to the axle. I'll find the size for you when I get to my service book.

sho0z

Old thread... but I've drained the old fluid... where do I add the new fluid??? Every video I can find says to locate the dipstick...I have a 6mt...no dipstick... any help?

Simba91102

This should help.