xtcdanno

now before anyone says replace the battery, alternator, and ELD, already done I'm missing something else. when I amperage off the battery I get 11 amps on the neg side and about 60 amps on the pos side. I have the esm, and checked and am not able to fine the information. and before I start with my hunch I'd rather ask and play stupid. btw the fuse box was such a bitch to replace the first time. this all started with I noticed my voltage was fluctuating between 12.8 and 14.5 the battery was at 12.6v , I replaced the alternator and battery seeing as they were original to the car, I was now getting between 13.1.and 14.4v. so I referred to the esm and noted the part in question was a separate part and then found out that part was sold with the fuse box and then found out that part was 38255S51-003 which was from a civic, sourced a fuse box to rip apart and see how to take mine apart correctly,(15$ at a scrap yard). so now I have a new eld , alternator and battery, and voltage is still between 13.1 and 14.1 with the new parts, but the amperage is still 11 on the neg and about 60 on the pos under load. and with no load just running. in gear with breaks on. my suspicion is that there is a corroded ground to the engine as there is more draw (pos side) then feed other wise will have to follow the esm and go step by step . anyone have any ideas. oh and one more thing the car is stock other then tinted windows. and also when the car is off there is a .2 amp draw and a couple of days ago my airbag sign came on for no reason. stopped the car restarted it and it went away and there are no trouble codes. the pulley is fine it was swapped from the old alternator.

TexasHonda

Don't know what to make of different amp measurements on pos and neg battery leads. Sensitivity to clamp placement?

Voltages after alt and battery replacement look good to me. Not sure why you replaced ELD.

0.2A draw w/ keyswitch Off is too high. It should be less than 50 mA. This will run battery down and cause other problems (such as airbag light).

Suggest running the engine off drain down before doing anything else.

good luck

xtcdanno

How is that done?

TexasHonda

While measuring the drain, remove fuses from circuits until drain drops to normal (< 50 ma) to ID the faulty circuit. Then need to unhook components from that circuit to ID faulty component. Relays are notorious for sticking closed and causing excess drain. Hands-Free-Link is a serial culprit.

good luck

xtcdanno

Ok so I did a my bad forgot to zero the ammeter. Anyhow so it's kind of screwed amperage is fine when the car is running I'm getting voltages from 12-14.2 there is diffnantly something wrong when I try to start its like the battery is dead . I have just enough juice to start it once if it doesn't I have to boost but the battery charger says its good to go.