adventurecrv

Sometimes the year matters, sometimes it does not. In this case I don't think it matters. Another thing that sometimes happens is that changes will be made to a part for 2012 model year and then the model years 2010 and 2011 will have a different part number for whatever reason. Quite often though when improvements are made the old part number is superceded by the new part number. Always best to check your year and go from there.

As for just "popping" it in, it isn't always that easy. For my 2.5TL in order to replace the rear O2 Sesor the exhaust had to be disconnected at the front pipe and dropped to allow access to the O2 sensor. A liberal amount of penetrating oil (PB Blaster I think) was used and allowed to soak overnight to allow the bolts to come off somewhat easily. A heat shield had to be removed as well. New bolts were installed on the heat shield as the old ones were in tough shape. The front pipe bolts were reused.

There is a special O2 Sensor removal tool which is basically a socket with a slit in it to allow clearance for the wire on the O2 Sesnor.

The plug for the O2 Sensor for my 2.5TL is under the passenger front seat under the carpet. It has a connector that clicks in and out. Easy to take on and off.

To get at the O2 Sensor (rear) you will have to get under the car. A jack and proper STANDS will make life super easy.

My neighbour has been working on/under his car and has the entire car off the ground. He has two bottle jacks in the middle of the car (one front and one rear), a floor jack stacked up on 2x4s holding the right rear of the car in the air, a jack stand for the left rear, a jack stand for the right front, and another floor jack for the left front of the car. Crazy...

Once you have installed the new O2 Sensor you will have to clear the code with your new scan tool or you can just disconnect the negative battery terminal for 15 seconds or so.

Speaking of batteries...when removing a battery always remove the negative (black or not covered) terminal first followed by the positive (red). The terminals are connected in the reverse order; positive then negative.

It is always a good idea when replacing electrical components to at the very least leave the car off with the key out and better still unhook the battery.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/au...-0381510p.html

Congrats on using the tool!

MarcDavidoff

Hi Op, just replied to your other post. I didn't quite read thru your whole first post here, but I see you have had some overheating. As I mentioned on your other post, it is definitely common on that 3.2 that is the same engine carried over from the legend. Adding any sort of sealant in he cooling system won't help for the long run and will just clog up all the passageways etc. the HG job is costly due to the time involved. Your fathers reasoning of no white smoke can't mean the HG is bad is incorrect on this engine. It sounds like you have a seeping HG which is allowing the combustion gases into the coiling system but acts like a one way check valve. Pressure builds in the cooling system and then coolant overflows the reserve tank. Sooner or later it will get worse and any further overheating will lead to a full on HG breach and then allow coolant into the oil which would then mean the engine is done for at that point

TLMichelle

Thanks for the information, adventure! I talked to my parents and my dad said he could help me out with the O2 sensor. It sounds like it's going to be a project. I have to wonder if the mechanic did something to the sensor while he was patching the exhaust because it sounds like it's all in the same area, or at least the same system. I guess I will find out when I go to look at it.

Marc, ugh, that is not good news, but thank you for warning me. I know that my cooling system builds up pressure at times, but I was really hoping that the air was coming from the leak in the water pump and that fixing it would cure the problem. (Wishful thinking. :P) The pellets seem to make the problem intermittent and I believe the head gasket test was done back in 2011, so it's been hanging in there for a while. If I keep checking on it I could probably keep it going for a few more years, right? It's due for a timing belt change. If I could get that done for cheap then it would be worth it, but the lowest quote I've gotten is $700-$800. The mechanic said that it would be bad practice to change the head gasket because it would "put a lot of load on the bearings". I am not sure what that means, but his conclusion was that I'd have to replace the whole engine to fix it the right way. Have you done any head gasket repairs on your Legends? I hate to put head gasket sealing stuff in my car (I opted to try the pellets right after replacing the radiator -- bad, bad, bad, I know, lol), but if the engine is going to be junk anyway, I guess I don't have much to lose except for a few connected components. The heater works fine right now at least.

MarcDavidoff

The HG repair is pretty difficult on these engines and takes some time so it can be expensive. Timing belt would make sense to do at the same time or you can just get a low mileage JDM engine ans have it swapped in. I have not attempted the HG job myself. Knock on wood my current legends are ok..they are all pretty low mileage. I had a 92 sedan with higher mileage and a SHG but didn't fix it myself

TLMichelle

What is a "JDM" engine?

MarcDavidoff

Japanese domestic market. They ship over low mileage engines usually with around 40k miles

TLMichelle

So you don't think it would be worth it to just do the timing belt and pray the head gasket doesn't go? I don't drive the car much because I work from home, so I'm hoping to get several more years out of it, though I'm not sure how many miles that will equate to. My dad thinks I should drive it until the timing belt destroys it, but I don't want to see that happen. I suppose if the engine is doomed anyway from the head gasket issue, then it would make sense to use it until it breaks and then swap the engine, but I think the cost of swapping the engine would probably be more than the car itself would be worth. I mean, I love my car, but I don't think I could sell it for more than the engine job would cost.

MarcDavidoff

Yeah that is a tough call. How many miles are on the timing belt? Some people have been able to go way beyond the recommended change interval. I would say keep driving it if it is not overheating. My 92 legend with the seeping HG was really only an issue when driven at high speeds for a while

TLMichelle

I think the timing belt is just over 100,000 miles now, but I'd have to double check to be sure. My dad said to go easy on it because that will help to not break it so I've been driving like an old lady for months, lol. My days of passing on two-way roads and taking risky left turns are over. *sigh* I haven't noticed what specific conditions cause the head gasket to seep, though. I've been in the habit of checking in the radiator before long trips to make sure the coolant level is high enough and to relieve pressure if there is any. It's been pretty good lately, but for a short while it would spew out almost as if the car was still warm when I'd open the cap (when the car was cold sitting overnight) so I started test-squeezing the hose first and if it was hard, unscrewing the nut until the little fountain of coolant would die down. I haven't had to do that for a while, I'm thinking thanks to the pellets.