Petie

is there any way to have the horn beep, lights flash or some other way to confirm that the doors have locked when using the remote keyless entry with the factory system?

it's so annoying to have to walk back to my car because I'm not really sure if my doors actually locked or not when I pushed the button.

Petie

98 TL 3.2

KADAW

Um. i have like the diffrent problem of urs. my rear driver side door lock makes a loud nasty sound when it locks so when i press the button, u hear the loud sound, scares people actualy.. but ..um sorrie iono how to help u on ur problem..[im stupid] haha

Cornflake

You could wire up a realy to the horn or parking lights with the door lock wire that would cause them to flash or beep whenever the doors were locked. I'm not sure if the OEM alarm has any other kind of output that you could pick up on. Try going to www.the12volt.com. VERY helpful bunch over there, they will have wiring diagrams and will help you figure out what to do.

UnsanePyro

Is it this loud buzz sort of noize? And only when you lock the doors? If so, its the door lock actuator, replace it, adn the noize will go away. There is a small piece that is worn out inside of it that you could try and remake too, I can take a picture sometime this week if you want.

Cornflake

I just disconnected the wires for the OEM one and mounted an aftermarket one when my drivers door one did that. Works GREAT.

Petie

Where exactly is the factory OEM keyless entry security alarm module located? And is it actually capable of using a relay for horn or lights flash output?

Cornflake, thanks for your response. You gave me another really good idea. Look for it in a new thread.

Petie

98 TL 3.2

KADAW

Yeah, you got it right on the money, .. so its the actuator you say, well imma do everything i can to my car when summer rolls around, like replaces the front speaker, fix slow windows hense' taking off the door pannel, all in one sha-bam.

Ysidro

The security module is located in the back of the glove compartment, behind 2 other modules. You will have to remove the glove compartment If you want to remove the security module. However, if you just need the parkinglight and horn wires, you can gain access to it by sticking your head under the passenger side dash, close to the firewall, and look up. You will notice there are medium size boxes placed together. However, if you look carefully at the last, small box near the firewall, you will find the security module. On its side, there should be 2 harnesses thats attached to the security module, hanging down. One on top and the other on the bottom.
The bottom harness contains the horn and parking light wires and thats the one you want.
The colors are

ParkingLight(Negative polarity)=Red/White
Horn(Negative polarity)=Blue/Red

Note that for the parking light wire, there is another on under the drivers side dash. That one has a positive polarity so be carreful.

Next you will need to find the lock/unlock wires.
Remove the passenger kick panel and trace from passenger door. Once removed look up. It should be on the top right side.
You'll see a bunch of wires grouped together,
Heres the wire colors you want,

Lock(Negative pulse)=Gray
Unlock(Negative pulse)=Green/Yellow

what you will need,
1. Four diodes at 1 amp.
2. One SPDT Relay
3. extra Wires

Heres the plan in a nutshell,
Whenever the door lock/unlock, it sends a pulse to the car's relay so that it can lock other doors and arm the factory alarm.
We are going do is catch those pulses, and use them just as a signal to activate the relay so that, it can supply power to the horn/light, and will continue to do so as long as the signal is recieved.

Find the lock and unlock wires.
Connect a separate wire to the lock and unlock wires.
Put a diode on each of the wires. Now tie the wires together. Like a V-shape.
Connect another wire to the V-shape wire you've just created. It should now look like a Y-shape.
The end of the wire you've just connected will be going to the relay. We'll call it the Y-shape wire as reference.

Do exactly the samething with the horn and parkinglight wires. Make a Y-shape wire with diodes.

Now heres how you should wire your relay.
On the relay, pry open the relay and its harness.
Read the numbers. there should be the numbers 87,87A,85,86,30

this wiring is for a negative polarity horn/parkinglight.

85=To Y-shape door lock/unlock wire
87A=Not used
87=To Ground chassis
86=To a +12 volt positive, fused at 10amp or more.
30=To Y-shape horn/parkinglight wire

Thats it. I had a lady that came in and ask me to do the samething you asked, except she had a piezo siren.
After I finished, I showed her how her factory alarm system can be disabled using a coat hanger. She was appalled and left. The next day, she came back and bought a Viper 560xv alarm. i think she made the right choice. The problem with the 96-98 TL security system is ithat it gives up the minute the door is unlock. You can do what cops do when you forgot your keys in the car. great forum. goodluck!

bat-on

Sounds like a good idea or maybe not. Did you ever think that every time you manually lock/unlock the doors from inside the flashers/horn is going to go off??? It's gonna look like your car's gone crazy! Horn would definitely make it obvious. Maybe just the flashers might not be all that bad.

bat-on

Your wrong about the Security system Ysidro! It does not give up when the door is unlocked! At least not my factory system! It activates the horn honking, Headlight and fog light flashing and even if you take care of that the engine gets disabled. You can't even start the car with your own key till you disable the security system. So you must hv worked on a different system chief! lol. Do not generalize all 1st gen TL's there are a lot of differences in the options and features!

bat-on

Never mind about the horn and flashers going off when manually locking/unlocking. I get what you mean after reading in thoroughly.

Go90go

Ysidro has a 2.5, I believe.

~Cheers~

batone

Okay I attempted this. So far northing's happening. I have tested the 12v power and the ground connections and works fine. Only thing I'm not too certain with is the lock (GRAY) unlock (GREEN/YELLOW) wires, as there are more than one of each in the harness. Has anyone attempted this? I could use some help I'm using Silicone Diodes 1A from Radioshack. Below is my wiring diagram. Thanks

batone

Mission Accomplished!! Ysidro's instructions seem to be for 2.5TL. Doesn't work for the 3.2TL as the components and functionality is different. I had to play with the wiring a bit to locate the right components and wires(not included in the standard service manual). Highly recommended for anyone with the stock security and keyless system. I customized it to my preference where the park lights and fogs flash when unlocking and park lights, fogs and the horn when locking. Now I don't have to visually make sure if the doors are locked and gives a nice indication when I'm unlocking form a distance. (Obviously like most alarm systems currently in the market)

arshdeep99

Batone
Could you writup a a quick DIY for the rest of us 3.2ers?

desired_speeds

yea... pleaseeeeeeeeeeeee?

Ken1997TL

Pretty please?

batone

Yeah I could do that. Only thing is that I will have to take some pics of the components and wires as there is a possibility of messing up the existing modules with incorrect connections. (Unless ur electronically sound) I will post a write-up with pics in a few days.

batone

Follow Yasidro's instructions except the lock/unlock wires and locations. Use my instructions and schematics for that part and the rest as you please. My instructions are for the 1st Gen 3.2TL. I'm not responsible if you mess things up in ur car I suggest you gain a bit of knowledge about diodes, polarity, functionality of components mentioned. Chances of you screwing up is minimal if you follow my directions. Below are the schematics. If your too lazy to remove the glove compartment, you can unplug the 18-pin socket and pull it down from behind the glove compartment. Good luck!

Petie

batone that is awesome dude.... I can't believe someone pulled it off, that's sweet.

1. What wire did you tap for the 12v+ source? (that goes to pin 86)

2. From that last diagram, it looks like the horn will beep on either lock or unlock. How did you get it to flash the lights and beep on lock, but only flash the lights (no beep) on unlock?

Petie

Forget my second question....

Does anyone know what color wire (in the passenger footwell) to tap for a 12v (+) source??

desired_speeds

can anyone get pix, im still kinda confused....

batone

Just get a new wire running from the positive (+) terminal of the battery for the +12V connection. Look at my wiring diagram, it's self explanatory. This diagram is for the lights to flash and horn beep for lock as well as unlock. This will not make the fogs flash (unless you have done the mod for the fogs to come on when you turn your park lights. That's a different DIY somewhere on this forum), just the park lights to flash. Good luck!

batone

The remote lock module is right behind the glove compartment all the way at the top. I think that's the only 18-pin connector there. If you wanna double check, unplug the connector and count the # of pins.

desired_speeds

so what are the things i need for this besides wires?

batone

Don't forget to put a 10Amp fuse in between the 12V+ wire!!

Petie

Got it working!!

I took some pics that'll help you guys out.... I'll get them up soon.

Thanks batone and Ysidro!!!!

desired_speeds

bah just reread the instructions for like the 3rd time, i got a pretty good idea now, thanx!

batone

Well good to hear that. Once you have things figured out it's an easy job.

batone

If you want the horn + lights flash for LOCK, and just lights flash for UNLOCK here's the diagram. Notice the red connection differentiates from the previous diagram.

batone

If anyone wants horn+lights for LOCK and only lights for UNLOCK, here's the diagram for that. Notice the red connection indicates the difference from the previous diagram.

batone

I have 2 sets of horns just so people can get outta my way. Thus the remote lock made all four (Hi, Low) horns go off making it too damn loud. The whole neighborhood could hear me locking the car. So I converted the negative horn pulse to a 12V+ pulse with another relay and fitted an extra low tone single horn in the engine bay just for the lock sound.

Petie

Yea mine is way too loud just with the stock horn.... I'm trying to figure out how to make it just a short toot, or else I'm going to rig up a small piezo buzzer instead of the horn.

Don't worry I didn't forget the rest of you guys.... I'll post some info and pics when I'm done.

deadsetonlivin

Lol not to be a pain but what if I wanted to do this without using the horn at all?

deadsetonlivin

And What are the numbers for? ie 30, 87,86,85?

deadsetonlivin

LOL NVM I figured it out. But what kind of buzzer would I use and how would I wire it up? I would really like a nice "BEEP" like on the newer acuras.

deadsetonlivin

I tried to do it myself but I still can't get it to work.... I have all the wires right but my polarity mite be wrong on one wire, ill have to check that out... Also my wires weren't the same as the ones shown in that picture. Should I follow colors or the placement on the acutual plug?

batone

Picture and color codes are for the 3.2TL, is urs a 2.5TL?

Be more specific as to which wires ur speaking of (Remote Module, Security Module)?


IF UR NOT SURE OF WHAT UR DOING WITH THE POLARITY AND INCORRECT CONNECTIONS MAY SHORT-CIRCUIT UR EXISTING MODULES !!!!!

Take the time and read the entire thread! Started out with instructions for the 2.5TL without any mention by "Ysidro" and I have presented the solution for the 3.2TL!

deadsetonlivin

I have a 3.2 and I used the pictures but my colors are different I also have missing pins in different places than in than in the picture. This is for the lock,unlock pins.

deadsetonlivin

LOL F this.. I'm just getting a 2way when I come back from my trip...... And I think I shorted out my horn or something cause the shit don't work anymore....