98 Acura TL 2.5 Water Pump, Timing Belt, Thermostat replacement tips
01-17-2012, 06:27 AM
#1
98 Acura TL 2.5 Water Pump, Timing Belt, Thermostat replacement tips
Ok, my son is a fairly new driver, he just turned 17, so one day he said "Dad, my car isn't heating up and I have the fan on full blast." So I go and look at it and notice the temp gauge doing some strange stuff. It never gets in the upper end of the range, but it goes to virtually no reading while driving. Plus the idle was wacky, it was revving then going to normal then revving.
I drive the car in the garage and pop the hood. The coolant tank is in the proper range but, the cap could be faulty or the lines clogged, so I decide to check the coolant in the radiator. Ok, I know better to open a warm radiator cap, but why did I try to open it slowly like I was opening a 2 liter soda bottle? Well, it didn't work by relieving the pressure slowly, the cap shot up and out and I now had coolant all over the engine and my work coveralls!
After the cloud of antifreeze dissapated, I noticed that the coolant level was low! I headed to Advanced auto parts and bought some coolant that was pre-mixed and said safe for all makes and models. It took almost the whole thing! I drove the car, but the idle still wasn't right and the temp gauge was acting strange so I took it to Advanced to have the scanner put on it. It read, PO141 oxygen sensor (downstream) and P0116 eng temp sensor circuit. Ok, so now I am on to something. I didn't want to shop around for the temp sensor circuit so I bought one at Advanced. I also bought more coolant and a new radiator cap in case the cap is bad.
I got home, changed the cap and the temp sensor added more coolant and bled the system, cleared the codes by popping the spare radio fuse and disconnecting the battery, took it to advanced to have the codes read, and the temp sensor code was gone, but not the P0141 O2 sensor code. While I was looking under the car I noticed a little bit of coolant dripping but chaulked it up to spilling coolant while changing the parts. Well, it got worse. I noticed the coolant was consistantly coming from just below the thermostat housing on the engine under the plastic timing belt cover near the water pump. After searching this board and researching the issue online, there was only one conclusion, the water pump went bad. I will follow up with another post on where I got the parts and how I changed the water pump, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, accessory belts, valve cover gasket and grommets and thermostat. Shout out to TexasHonda for his timing belt post for helping me visualize the effort before I got started.
I drive the car in the garage and pop the hood. The coolant tank is in the proper range but, the cap could be faulty or the lines clogged, so I decide to check the coolant in the radiator. Ok, I know better to open a warm radiator cap, but why did I try to open it slowly like I was opening a 2 liter soda bottle? Well, it didn't work by relieving the pressure slowly, the cap shot up and out and I now had coolant all over the engine and my work coveralls!
After the cloud of antifreeze dissapated, I noticed that the coolant level was low! I headed to Advanced auto parts and bought some coolant that was pre-mixed and said safe for all makes and models. It took almost the whole thing! I drove the car, but the idle still wasn't right and the temp gauge was acting strange so I took it to Advanced to have the scanner put on it. It read, PO141 oxygen sensor (downstream) and P0116 eng temp sensor circuit. Ok, so now I am on to something. I didn't want to shop around for the temp sensor circuit so I bought one at Advanced. I also bought more coolant and a new radiator cap in case the cap is bad.
I got home, changed the cap and the temp sensor added more coolant and bled the system, cleared the codes by popping the spare radio fuse and disconnecting the battery, took it to advanced to have the codes read, and the temp sensor code was gone, but not the P0141 O2 sensor code. While I was looking under the car I noticed a little bit of coolant dripping but chaulked it up to spilling coolant while changing the parts. Well, it got worse. I noticed the coolant was consistantly coming from just below the thermostat housing on the engine under the plastic timing belt cover near the water pump. After searching this board and researching the issue online, there was only one conclusion, the water pump went bad. I will follow up with another post on where I got the parts and how I changed the water pump, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, accessory belts, valve cover gasket and grommets and thermostat. Shout out to TexasHonda for his timing belt post for helping me visualize the effort before I got started.
01-17-2012, 07:12 AM
#2
98 Acura TL 2.5 Water Pump, Timing Belt, Thermostat replacement tips Part 2
To continue from my last post, I noticed the water pump was leaking. After reading about how to change the thing on this board, many people advised changing out the timing belt and tensioner at the same time since you are in there anyhow. So I did some shopping around online and at Advanced auto parts and found this entire kit for $167.15 on ebay. It includes the water pump, seal, camshaft seals, crankshaft seals, valve cover gasket, timing belt, tensioner and all accessory belts. http://www.ebay.com/itm/330618967531...ht_2733wt_1110 . It is sold be cnsmotors out in cali. Everything was brand new. The only 2 issues I had with the kit was the shipping to Virginia via UPS ground was way to slow! I am use to getting my stuff in 2 days. The other was the valve cover gasket. It was made of silicon and was very difficult to fit in the valve cover without RTV. I ended up using the old one since it was still good. My spark plug gaskets were the ones that were leaking so I kept the new ones. My camshaft and crankshaft seals weren't leaking, so I didn't touch them, but I have them now if they ever start leaking.
Get the Helm Shop manual. It is pricey, but is great! $46.50 http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2...504&itemtype=N .
I took everything apart waiting for the parts from Cali. TexasHonda in his post stated he needed to remove the radiator, but I found that if you remove both fans, you have enough room to work. WARNING: cut a piece of thick cardboard the size of the radiator and tape it to the inside of the radiator to prevent damage to the radiator while working! The cardboard saved my radiator from errant tool drops and part removal drops.
The pulley removal tool is a must! Buy this one it fits and works! $15.29 . Powerbuilt 648796 Honda Crankcase Pulley Removal Tool. It is way cheaper than all the rest. If you don't have 1/2 breaker bars, buy some! you need 2, one for the 19mm deep socket that you will need and for the pulley tool. I bought 2 Stanley brand ones at walmart for like $18 a piece. cheaper than anywhere else. After I drained the coolant, removed the radiator fans, upper thermostat housing half, upper thermostat hose and all the accessory belts, I prayed that I could get this crankshaft bolt off. Yes, I prayed, to Jesus of course. I read horror stories about people not getting this thing off and having to have the car towed to a mechanics garage. Well, God had favor, because I was able to break this thing free after a few sweaty moments of pain. I was able to wedge the pulley tool breaker bar under the left part of the wheel well frame under the ABS unit to provide more stability/leverage in loosening the bolt.
The rest of the install went as planned. I made sure I followed every step in the Helm manual to include making sure the crankshaft and camshaft are at TDC before removing the timing belt. The pulley was a bit of a pain to get off the crankshaft. It has a key that keeps it from turning on the shaft. I used both hands and wiggled the pulley off the shaft, no pulley removal tool needed. Don't loose the key. My pulley and harmonic balancer looked terrible. I searched online for a replacement and it was over $300. I looked at it again, and decided it would be just fine, it wasn't damaged, just rusted.
I used the special RTV for water pumps and thermostat housings to reassemble the water pump and thermostat. It hasn't leaked. When I removed the thermostat housing, I noticed that the old thermostat was missing, the only thing that was in the housing was the frame to keep the housing from leaking. This was why the coolant gauge was flucuating so widely. I replaced it with a 170 degree thermo from amazon.com of course. I used antiseize on the water pump bolts like the manual says. I followed the timing belt reinstallation instructions to the T. I rotated the new belt the correct number of times, etc. It seemed really loose at the time, but once the timing belt tensioner is released, it sets the proper tension using the spring that came with the new one.
I got everything reassembled cleaned the overflow tank, added coolant and then prayed again. The prayer worked and the car started! I bled the coolant according to the instructions, but I noticed that when the radiator cap opened the overflow coolant tank wasn't filling with hot coolant. I felt the tube and it was hot. The overflow tank plastic elbow was restricted. I searched everywhere for a replacement. I finally whet to Lowe's and picked up a plastic fitting that fit inside the cap and I zip tied the thing on. Worked like a charm, coolant is flowing now.
It took awhile to get the coolant bled and filled properly, oh yeah, before you turn the car off turn the heater to 90 degrees, it opens the heater so all the coolant drains out.
I took the car for a test drive. It is amazing how a properly functioning cooling system assists in the performance of the car. The gauge works properly, the car runs smoother and there isn't any coolant leaks. I took it to advanced and had them recheck the codes. I had a new code, the upstream O2 sensor. It figures. I posted the specs for this one in another post, at least the car was driveable now. I freaked out a little thinking the radiator was leaking, but it was the spilled coolant in the creases of the radiator that was steaming when the car heated up.
Anyhow, I hope this helps anyone looking at doing this on their own. You can do it. I don't have have a large toolbox, though I should just suck it up an buy one.
Get the Helm Shop manual. It is pricey, but is great! $46.50 http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2...504&itemtype=N .
I took everything apart waiting for the parts from Cali. TexasHonda in his post stated he needed to remove the radiator, but I found that if you remove both fans, you have enough room to work. WARNING: cut a piece of thick cardboard the size of the radiator and tape it to the inside of the radiator to prevent damage to the radiator while working! The cardboard saved my radiator from errant tool drops and part removal drops.
The pulley removal tool is a must! Buy this one it fits and works! $15.29 . Powerbuilt 648796 Honda Crankcase Pulley Removal Tool. It is way cheaper than all the rest. If you don't have 1/2 breaker bars, buy some! you need 2, one for the 19mm deep socket that you will need and for the pulley tool. I bought 2 Stanley brand ones at walmart for like $18 a piece. cheaper than anywhere else. After I drained the coolant, removed the radiator fans, upper thermostat housing half, upper thermostat hose and all the accessory belts, I prayed that I could get this crankshaft bolt off. Yes, I prayed, to Jesus of course. I read horror stories about people not getting this thing off and having to have the car towed to a mechanics garage. Well, God had favor, because I was able to break this thing free after a few sweaty moments of pain. I was able to wedge the pulley tool breaker bar under the left part of the wheel well frame under the ABS unit to provide more stability/leverage in loosening the bolt.
The rest of the install went as planned. I made sure I followed every step in the Helm manual to include making sure the crankshaft and camshaft are at TDC before removing the timing belt. The pulley was a bit of a pain to get off the crankshaft. It has a key that keeps it from turning on the shaft. I used both hands and wiggled the pulley off the shaft, no pulley removal tool needed. Don't loose the key. My pulley and harmonic balancer looked terrible. I searched online for a replacement and it was over $300. I looked at it again, and decided it would be just fine, it wasn't damaged, just rusted.
I used the special RTV for water pumps and thermostat housings to reassemble the water pump and thermostat. It hasn't leaked. When I removed the thermostat housing, I noticed that the old thermostat was missing, the only thing that was in the housing was the frame to keep the housing from leaking. This was why the coolant gauge was flucuating so widely. I replaced it with a 170 degree thermo from amazon.com of course. I used antiseize on the water pump bolts like the manual says. I followed the timing belt reinstallation instructions to the T. I rotated the new belt the correct number of times, etc. It seemed really loose at the time, but once the timing belt tensioner is released, it sets the proper tension using the spring that came with the new one.
I got everything reassembled cleaned the overflow tank, added coolant and then prayed again. The prayer worked and the car started! I bled the coolant according to the instructions, but I noticed that when the radiator cap opened the overflow coolant tank wasn't filling with hot coolant. I felt the tube and it was hot. The overflow tank plastic elbow was restricted. I searched everywhere for a replacement. I finally whet to Lowe's and picked up a plastic fitting that fit inside the cap and I zip tied the thing on. Worked like a charm, coolant is flowing now.
It took awhile to get the coolant bled and filled properly, oh yeah, before you turn the car off turn the heater to 90 degrees, it opens the heater so all the coolant drains out.
I took the car for a test drive. It is amazing how a properly functioning cooling system assists in the performance of the car. The gauge works properly, the car runs smoother and there isn't any coolant leaks. I took it to advanced and had them recheck the codes. I had a new code, the upstream O2 sensor. It figures. I posted the specs for this one in another post, at least the car was driveable now. I freaked out a little thinking the radiator was leaking, but it was the spilled coolant in the creases of the radiator that was steaming when the car heated up.
Anyhow, I hope this helps anyone looking at doing this on their own. You can do it. I don't have have a large toolbox, though I should just suck it up an buy one.
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