96 2.5TL wouldn't start
 

Just this morning my 1996 2.5TL decided it wouldn't start! well i need advice from you guys.\

The problem is when u turn the key, the car will start and die a few seconds later. Each time the key is turned, the car starts but dies. I need help guys!!

sounds like your battery is okay but the alternator is not taking over the load...

I just had this problem, and it was my ignition switch. The car turned over just fine but would not hold. I ended up holding the key in the "on" position to get it home from work. It turns out that I only had to have one part of my ignition switch replaced. (the electrical side as my mechanic referred to it) He got a part number from Honda and bought it from a Honda dealership. Acura wanted to sell me the entire ignition switch for about $400.00 but the electrical side was only $50.00 and I paid my mechanic about $120.00 labor. Let me know how you come out.

I agree w/ aphason, the ignition switch is clearly highly likely to be the fault. You can probably confirm by wiggling the keyswitch around to help or make problem worse.

good luck

Thanks guys! i'm taking my car to my mechanic next week to check my ignition switch!!!

can you please send me the part number of this "electrical side"?
thanks

Nedd,

I just called the dealership that my mechanic got the part from and they said that the comparable car should be a 96 accord and the part number for the electrical side should be 35110SV4A01. If I were you I would verify this with your local Honda and Acura dealers as well. Unfortunately, my mechanic was not around to answer this question for me.
Good Luck and let me know how you turn out!

sounds like an alternator problem to me

Well I Had A Similar Issue As Well I Thought It Was The Alternator When It Was A Busted Crankshaft Pulley Check Da Belts To See If They Are Eaten Or Cut Up And Then If Not Its The Alternator!!

Thanks. I usually service my car at the honda dealership! cheaper than the Acura Stealership. I send my car in for service on monday. I'll let you guys know the results

Geico towed my car to Honda yesterday. As alphason'sac suggested, the problem was the "elecctrical part" of the ignition switch! so Honda ordered on for 38.61 and charged 144 for labor! I'm back on road. Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

Glad to hear that you are back on the road! :thumbsup: Now post some pics of your ride in the other thread. :toocool:

Wow, they ass-raped you if you paid $144 for labor. It took me about 30 minutes to replace that part and it was easy to get to. You just have to know where to look.

96 TL2.5 Ignition switch
 

I have encountered the same starting (staying running) issue as Nedd.
The car will stay running if I hold the key slightly past the II position.

I called the local Acura dealer and ordered the electrical side of the ignition switch for the $38.61, but the part number is different.
The part is scheduled to arrive tomorrow, so I will find after I install it.

Is there a possiblity that the ignition switch b/w the 2.5, 3.2, and Accord of the same generation, but the part numbers are different due to the Honda/Acura branding?

Thanks

That's exactly the case. The Honda/Acura parts are interchangeable, but the parts numbers are different. How did you make out?

I am picking up the Elec. Ignition Switch today at the dealer along with the tranny filter and gasket and alarm remote. It was suppposed to be in yesterday, but there was a problem with the "ordering system" which I am sure means the parts guy forgot. I will be installing this switch today, so I will let you know. I will be riding my trusty full-sus MTB to the dealer about 10 mi down the fwy.

I will be checking back after I tune the car up today, and I will post some pics of the ride. Nothing special, just really clean and in excellent shape.

Thanks

One other point of interest regarding the electronic ignition switch is that I noticed that my blower fan motor had been intermittently increasing/decreasing while driving by a speed or two for the last week or so.
Also, while troubleshooting the ignition problem, I tried to use the power window to no avail. The key had to be turned past the II position on the ignition in order for the pw motor to get the voltage.
I am glad this defunct ignition switch(relay) did not burn up the pw/blower fan/other elec accs by dropping and spiking the voltage. This reminds me of a Piece of Shit VW I once had. I would expect this level of quality from Bosch, but NipponDenso parts have otherwise proven themselves to me for years, even from the 2-stroke dirt bike days.
I hope the other ND parts on the car were designed better.