*Announcement* Sayuri is back with a world's first!
07-16-2007, 02:46 PM
#1
大日本帝国
Thread Starter
*Announcement* Sayuri is back with a world's first!
You read right! Sayuri is back with a new heart, with forged rods... longer stroke... THAT'S RIGHT! World's first UA3 with a 3476cc C35A motor! Pictures will be posted shortly, but the motor was in on the 13th, and I didn't feel like posting about it yet. I just have some minor issues right now, since I pulled too hard on a hose yesterday and snapped a connector off, 
. Lot's of work was involved, but I feel that it was worth it in the end!
~Cheers~
. Lot's of work was involved, but I feel that it was worth it in the end!~Cheers~
07-16-2007, 03:21 PM
#3
大日本帝国
Thread Starter
^ Yeah, no more 12+ hours doing things in the wrong order, haha! Total time spent was really about 72 hours of intense work, and quite a few hours just BSin' around, hehe. Video is being uploaded and converted as I type!
~Cheers~
~Cheers~
07-16-2007, 03:34 PM
#5
大日本帝国
Thread Starter
Here's the vid! The sound is a bit off, you really have to hear it in person. My neighbour with a nicely modded LS400 and ES300, and my neighbour with two old school Porsche 911s both came out and commented on how nice the car sounded, even with a small exhaust leak from the header collector. I'm just happy my car is back running again a 3 1/2 month hiatus!
~Cheers~
~Cheers~
07-16-2007, 07:33 PM
#7
大日本帝国
Thread Starter
^ Thanks, m8. All the hard work has paid off. This thread might become a how-to if more people are interested in the swap, and aren't afraid to bust a knuckle or a hand, haha! Ken dropped the motor and tranny on my hand against the radiator support and luckily it fell along the bone, not across it. My hand was swollen for a couple days, though. I'll dyno after I go fix some torn vacuum lines and a heater valve, and see how much of an improvement this new motor is. I'm venturing a guess at ~180WHP & ~210 WTQ, so slight bump HP-wise, but a nice improvement TQ-wise. I need to get this thing tuned, though... Plus some new plugs since these are old OEM double-plats, and a big air compressor to blow off all the dust/dirt that's accumulated on the engine. After all that, a wash/wax and I'm ready to hit the streets, 
!
~Cheers~
!~Cheers~
Trending Topics
07-16-2007, 09:49 PM
#11
大日本帝国
Thread Starter
^^ Yeah, what ^ said. There's a place nearby that we missed on our first trip out, then I started calling around and found it. Well, I actually found another one but for some reason I ended up with this motor. The other one had a guaranteed mileage and was a bit newer (older model but new to the yard).
~Cheers~
~Cheers~
07-16-2007, 10:10 PM
#12
Khmer Pride
Damn i cant believe you really put a 3.5RL engine in.. Congrat. cant wait for videos and Pics!!
so wheres the old engine...drop it off at the junk yard for a trade in price?
so wheres the old engine...drop it off at the junk yard for a trade in price?
07-16-2007, 10:24 PM
#13
Senior Moderator
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Better Neighborhood, Arizona
Posts: 45,634
Received 2,328 Likes
on
1,308 Posts
I'd rather have the 3.5 RL motor than my Type II swap to be honest. That engine is smooth! 
07-17-2007, 12:15 AM
#15
大日本帝国
Thread Starter
Thanks to all for your nice comments! My old engine is sitting next to the car ATM. Just keeping it for now to check vacuum lines. Those brittle hoses are a PITA to work with!
~Cheers~
~Cheers~
07-17-2007, 03:55 AM
#18
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Hella part of Cali
Age: 33
Posts: 1,896
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Originally Posted by J-SpecTL
WOW... first air suspension and now this! you dont waste time do you. awesome!
07-17-2007, 04:01 AM
#19
大日本帝国
Thread Starter
^^ The real air sus was revealed in that thread , Canover is next on my list of sus parts besides downgrading my front sway and upgrading the rear. I didn't waste time when I got the car either, hehe. After a month or so, I had a full custom exhaust system from Y-pipe back, SW short ram made into a cold-air, custom crank pulley, custom gapped plugs, ground kit, DVD audio system, full interior lighting swap, exterior lighting upgrades (which changed after a couple months), and full Honda Inspire conversion minus the rims. Not to mention having a different set of rims per week, hehe. Tracked and dyno'd, too. I hate driving stock cars... That's probably why I hate my Civic so much. Goddamned slow POS that cost me too much...
BTW, tranny cooler is hooked back up, no more looping it so I can drive down the street, hehe. Vacuum line to the FPR is fixed, turns out it had a hole in it. Vacuum line for one stage of the VIS had a gash that went almost all the way around save two millimetres. Ran out of fuel line hose, though...
~Cheers~
, Canover is next on my list of sus parts besides downgrading my front sway and upgrading the rear. I didn't waste time when I got the car either, hehe. After a month or so, I had a full custom exhaust system from Y-pipe back, SW short ram made into a cold-air, custom crank pulley, custom gapped plugs, ground kit, DVD audio system, full interior lighting swap, exterior lighting upgrades (which changed after a couple months), and full Honda Inspire conversion minus the rims. Not to mention having a different set of rims per week, hehe. Tracked and dyno'd, too. I hate driving stock cars... That's probably why I hate my Civic so much. Goddamned slow POS that cost me too much...BTW, tranny cooler is hooked back up, no more looping it so I can drive down the street, hehe. Vacuum line to the FPR is fixed, turns out it had a hole in it. Vacuum line for one stage of the VIS had a gash that went almost all the way around save two millimetres. Ran out of fuel line hose, though...
~Cheers~
07-17-2007, 12:05 PM
#23
B A N N E D
when and if you figure out the rear swaybar ordeal let me know. Shits got understeer something feirce. I wish i had my slugs in that block. I bet 11:1 stroker motor would be alright.. hehe
still would have that dirt bird auto tranny though,..
still would have that dirt bird auto tranny though,..
07-17-2007, 01:53 PM
#24
Senior Moderator
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Better Neighborhood, Arizona
Posts: 45,634
Received 2,328 Likes
on
1,308 Posts
Originally Posted by KaMLuNg
why not do the hybrid like lots of the other guys on a-l... i think u get more out of the bottom end of the 3.5...
07-17-2007, 03:46 PM
#25
大日本帝国
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Colt45
when you figure out the rear swaybar ordeal let me know. Shits got understeer something feirce. I wish i had my slugs in that block. I bet 11:1 stroker motor would be alright.. hehe
still would have that dirt bird auto tranny though,..
still would have that dirt bird auto tranny though,..
Originally Posted by KaMLuNg
why not do the hybrid like lots of the other guys on a-l... i think u get more out of the bottom end of the 3.5...
~Cheers~
07-18-2007, 03:27 AM
#28
大日本帝国
Thread Starter
Holy crap, I'm in this. See if you can spot me, .
http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=HaUBks1Hn98
~Cheers~
P.S. I'm not in the TL.
P.P.S. I'm in this one, too: http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=LQljozgqTaA
.http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=HaUBks1Hn98
~Cheers~
P.S. I'm not in the TL.
P.P.S. I'm in this one, too: http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=LQljozgqTaA
07-18-2007, 09:01 AM
#29
B A N N E D
well i got it up on the lift last night adjusting some shit.. My friend has a 97 acura cl with a bunch of shit done to it. He claims all the stuff he got for the suspension was from a 94-97 accord.
The rear swaybar looks pretty fucking identical to me. The bushing brackets bolt the swaybar to the rear crossmember like straight up(almost into the floor if you look at it). The cl/accord bolts those same bushing brackets into the crossmember towards the front of the car if you are looking.
So the only difference is those D bushing brackets are swiveled 90 degrees.
If im correct i think a 94-97 accord rear swaybar would work. The suspension looks to be the same. I mean i think the only difference is the hubs im changing anyways to run -15mm offset wheels in the rear..
Even then, all acura did was use different wheelbearing and wheelbearing spindle housings that moved the wheelbase out 32mm on each side. This is how they got a bigger wheelbase for the tl..
Im gonna look at some accord bars and see if they look the same.. My stock bar is so fucking small its disgusting. I mean i cant see that shit being any more than 14mm
I want like a 26mm at least. The front bar is at least 26mm. Soft springs, a giant front bar, and a heavy car = massive understeer which = poop.
Im looking to generate snap oversteer for my style of driving.
The rear swaybar looks pretty fucking identical to me. The bushing brackets bolt the swaybar to the rear crossmember like straight up(almost into the floor if you look at it). The cl/accord bolts those same bushing brackets into the crossmember towards the front of the car if you are looking.
So the only difference is those D bushing brackets are swiveled 90 degrees.
If im correct i think a 94-97 accord rear swaybar would work. The suspension looks to be the same. I mean i think the only difference is the hubs im changing anyways to run -15mm offset wheels in the rear..
Even then, all acura did was use different wheelbearing and wheelbearing spindle housings that moved the wheelbase out 32mm on each side. This is how they got a bigger wheelbase for the tl..
Im gonna look at some accord bars and see if they look the same.. My stock bar is so fucking small its disgusting. I mean i cant see that shit being any more than 14mm
I want like a 26mm at least. The front bar is at least 26mm. Soft springs, a giant front bar, and a heavy car = massive understeer which = poop.
Im looking to generate snap oversteer for my style of driving.
07-18-2007, 02:25 PM
#31
Originally Posted by Go90go
The RL manifold has more potential than even the Type II. The overall design is better, IMO, properly honed and polished, that is. A couple people on A-L have completely gutted the RL manifold, removing the divider plates between the runners. That's stupid if you ask me, since there is a chance of uneven air flow and turbulence going into the ports.
~Cheers~
~Cheers~
courtesey of Sr5Guy on a-l...
Type II on left, RL in middle, and Type I on right... i think the type II looks like a better design as there is more unrestricted access... but it all depends what you are looking for... the Type II IM cause help you better in the higher RPMS, compared to the RL and type I IM that is more designed for TQ... someone did a mass test and filled both the RL and Type II IM with water and the Type II held about a half cup more of water...
Originally Posted by desired_speeds
well, if he did type II heads, it would be slightly too wide and he you have to get the manifold redone for it to fit. plus $$$ reasons
when i saw this pic, i went hunting for a Type II IM...
07-18-2007, 03:06 PM
#35
大日本帝国
Thread Starter
^ That's true, but if you were to hone the RL manifold, you'd get a boost in mid-range torque/hp. Type II heads can be machined down to fit, but it's impractical. Better to have the RL heads slightly enlarged to fit the Type II valvetrain since the valves are about 2mm bigger.
~Cheers~
~Cheers~
07-18-2007, 03:10 PM
#36
i got lucky with mine... a-l black market forums...
a guy had type II heads and IM... i grabbed only the IM since i didn't want to have to deal with OBDI conversion nightmare that Ken and Cornflake went through...
thinking long term, if i blow the engine ill prob do the 3.5 block and i already have the IM available...
anyone know where i can get a do-it-yourself home PnP kit???
a guy had type II heads and IM... i grabbed only the IM since i didn't want to have to deal with OBDI conversion nightmare that Ken and Cornflake went through...
thinking long term, if i blow the engine ill prob do the 3.5 block and i already have the IM available...
anyone know where i can get a do-it-yourself home PnP kit???
07-18-2007, 03:13 PM
#37
Instructor
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Texas
Age: 38
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hey kamlung totally off topic but where did you get your name from? because my girlfriend just brought me back some rasta flip flops from costa rica in which the name brand is Kam-Lung......made me think of you hahaha
07-18-2007, 03:16 PM
#38
Originally Posted by Go90go
^ That's true, but if you were to hone the RL manifold, you'd get a boost in mid-range torque/hp. Type II heads can be machined down to fit, but it's impractical. Better to have the RL heads slightly enlarged to fit the Type II valvetrain since the valves are about 2mm bigger.
~Cheers~
~Cheers~
07-18-2007, 04:48 PM
#40
大日本帝国
Thread Starter
Drew, yes I plan on dynoing:
Yes I do have a remote start and I believe I had discussed it in another thread about alarms. It's a Clifford Matrix 3.5, and I had a 10.5 when that was the latest (now it's 12.5) but since the 10.5 doesn't have remote start built into the brain (you need a separate control box) I switched it for the one I have now.
I had found a couple Type II manifolds but I always missed out on buying them. The closest was someone buying it 10 minutes before I said I wanted it!! I did find one locally for $150, but I heard the guy was an asshole and not too trustworthy so I decided against buying it from him.
~Cheers~
Originally Posted by Go90go
^ Thanks, m8. All the hard work has paid off. This thread might become a how-to if more people are interested in the swap, and aren't afraid to bust a knuckle or a hand, haha! Ken dropped the motor and tranny on my hand against the radiator support and luckily it fell along the bone, not across it. My hand was swollen for a couple days, though. I'll dyno after I go fix some torn vacuum lines and a heater valve, and see how much of an improvement this new motor is. I'm venturing a guess at ~180WHP & ~210 WTQ, so slight bump HP-wise, but a nice improvement TQ-wise. I need to get this thing tuned, though... Plus some new plugs since these are old OEM double-plats, and a big air compressor to blow off all the dust/dirt that's accumulated on the engine. After all that, a wash/wax and I'm ready to hit the streets, !
~Cheers~
!~Cheers~
Originally Posted by TimmyPB
mad props to you go90go, i dig it and btw do you have a remote starter and if so what brand i was thinking of getting that and new alarm soon?
I had found a couple Type II manifolds but I always missed out on buying them. The closest was someone buying it 10 minutes before I said I wanted it!! I did find one locally for $150, but I heard the guy was an asshole and not too trustworthy so I decided against buying it from him.
~Cheers~