jaymax

An Acura RL 3.5L 6cycl 1997

[i] Code due to Insufficient flow - Is there away of differentiating whether the problem is due to a faulty EGR valve or just dirty ports; (i.e. a way of testing the EGR valve)

[ii] Are there special tools for cleaning the ports ? Seen kits advertised, but dealers do not carry them in their arsenal of parts!

[iii] After cleaning ports and replacing EGR valve if needed does the "Check Engine" light turn off automatically or is there a resetting to be done.

Thanks!

3.5RLv-tec?

iTrader: (2)

I had the same code. I cleaned the port by using stainless steel brush from Harbor freight. I sprayed some carb cleaner down the port behide the engine and twisted the brush with my hand. I spent a least 1 hr to clean the damn thing. Before you clean the port I suggest you take a picture of the hole with your cell phone for comparison. To clear the code you need a code scanner or just remove the negative battery terminal. If your car need to have a emission test then I suggest to clear the code with a scanner. Hope that help.

jaymax

BTW just wondered what size brush to use, what is the size of the port's hole ?

99blackhatch

I did the same thing on mine. I went to the junk yard and grabbed another EGR off of a 91-95 Legend since they "plug n play" if i recall, so that was an easy fix, i also used carb cleaner on it and down in the piping as well and cleaned like mentioned above and used SEAFOAM as well... i don't recommend using SEAFOAM since they are known to hurt Honda engines more than help....

Last thing i did was removed and completely cleaned the intake manifold and it worked fine... so if something easy doesn't work, here are other areas to look into.

This was on my old '96 to clarify that had 250,xxx+ miles on it.

jaymax

I cleaned my EGR Valve, it looks fine vacuum and valve works fine - but how the heck do you get the intake manifold off? The fuel rail runs around it, held down by 4 bolts/nuts. Removed those but the rail does not budge, seems as if necessary to remove those two rails before getting to the manifold

Thanks

99blackhatch

Correct. You have to disconnect the fuel lines and then pull them off the manifold if I recall. then the manifold will need a little work to lift and pry it off.

jaymax

Just another query, a bit cautious about popping the manifold off. It is made of some casted aluminum or alloy and seem so fragile - surely dont want to crack it. Seems to be held down on both sides by two studs on the two ends and two bolts in between, do you recall any other. Can't seem to get it to budge and am reluctant to hit it too hard to nudge it.

"manifold will need a little work to lift and pry it off" - how much?

Thanks!

3.5RLv-tec?

iTrader: (2)

Why do you need to remove the intake manifold? It is a lots of work and the cleaning of the EGR pipe and hole will last you for one year lol

jaymax

Still another - do I have to remove the vacuum solenoids, throttle body and the water passage in order to remove the intake manifold?

Thanks!

jaymax

Thanks 3.5 RLv!

I think you have answered my biggest question, I just thought as I had it, the engine area, open that I should clean it - desperate to pass the smog test and avoid a $800+ bill that the dealer is charging for an EGR valve replacement and ports cleaning.

So then all I really need to clean is the EGR tube, the valve is already cleaned and is functional (vacuum test). Should I have to remove the vacuum solenoid block on the manifold to get to the EGR tube connection on the driver side (left side away from the valve itself).

Thanks!