SPAMSAMICH

My 2004 RL just started screeching real loud on start up near the belts. Sounds like metal on metal. If I spray the belts it quiets down and noise stops, but will start doing the same thing if car sits all day or if I start up the next morning. If I spray the belts before starting it, I do not hear the noise. I have about 210K miles. Still runs sweet. Does this sound like a belt alignment problem, tensioner or pulley problem? I have never replaced my timing belt. Looking for some suggestions. Thanks.

MyNameIsEarl

One of your pulleys has gone bad. Try turning off the air conditioner and see if that makes the noise stop. If it does, then you know that your AC compressor has gone bad. If it doesn't stop, one of your other pulleys is bad.

I would not run the car because you do not know what kind of damage you could be causing. All sorts of important things are connected to pulleys (timing belt, probably being the most important), but then you have your water pump, alternator, stuff like that.

If you really have to run your car, check the instrument panel and see if you have a low oil pressure or electrical charging failure light. This will help you diagnose where the problem is.

Oil is a temporary fix, but you will have to replace the pulley. When my AC compressor went out, that was almost $1000.

Let me know what you find.

SPAMSAMICH

Thanks. I was thinking it might be a pulley. Is that a hard fix? Hopefully the dealer won't try to get me to replace all the pulleys, belts, timing belt, etc.

MyNameIsEarl

Well the thing is, if they are doing the labor anyway to take your carp apart. You might as way pay the extra for the parts. For instance, when I had my real main seal replaced, I had them do the upper camshaft seal at the same time because it was there. No need for that to fail and then pay several more hundred dollars in labor to replace a different seal.

Unless you are a mechanic, or have experience like that, I would say it is pretty difficult. But of course that depends on where the problem is. For instance, if your garage is like most people's and there is no automotive lift in it, it could prove very difficult indeed, especially if the problem is pretty low in the engine bay.

I think it would be worth it to at least get it diagnosed by the dealer, because then should you get the car worked on there the cost of the diagnosis goes to the cost of the repair.

Just watch your engine temperature needle VERY carefully every time you drive now. It would really be unfortunate to have a catastrophic failure.

I hope everything gets worked out.

Oh and in my experience for the rear main seal/camshaft seal, Acura need my car for two hole days. Stuff like that tends to be very labor intensive to replace.

MyNameIsEarl

Any news on what the issue was?