optima yellow top

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Old 01-02-2009, 09:59 AM
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optima yellow top

Hey guys i have a 04 acura rl and i think its time for a new battery after my 63k miles of driving. Im thinking about going with the yellow top cuz i have a Kicker l7 and a 1000 watt alpine amp with no capacitor. I went to costco, sams club, walmart and the employees could not identify the battery I needed so they said it wouldnt fit. Im frustrated and Optima's technical helpline opens on jan 5th n i need the battery now can someone please helpo me i know we are 24 and 550 anyone know the terminal group number and gimmie specifcs on how much cca i should get etc.
Thanks in advance
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Old 01-25-2009, 08:25 PM
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You need a group 25 battery according to Optima's website battery selector.

CCA should not matter as long as you stay at or above your current battery if you haven't been having starting issues with your old battery.
Old 01-27-2009, 03:37 PM
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You need a cap on a 1K watt system man. It's bad for your car when the lites dim. You need at least 1 Farad for that setup.
Old 01-29-2009, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Green Acura
You need a cap on a 1K watt system man. It's bad for your car when the lites dim. You need at least 1 Farad for that setup.
If your lights are dimming you need a new alternator as well as a better battery. A cap is a bandaid, and a poor one at that.
Old 02-03-2009, 12:30 PM
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system

u guys are right i do have a cap its a 2.5 farad and what i also did was instead of hooking up the remote wire directly to the fuse i put in a toggle switch so now i can manually turn on and off my system which preserves power. I dont think I will buy a new alternator until the old one breaks
thanks
if u guys have more questions about ne hting let me know i hae a pretty nice set up
Old 02-03-2009, 09:17 PM
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If you're running a 1000 amp thats class D lets say thats 80% efficient (guessing here, if its class AB you're actually looking at 50% efficiency).

This means your amp draws 89 A at 14 V or 104 A at 12 V. If your alternator cannot produce that power then its going to suck it from your battery killing your battery and forcing your alternator into overdrive killing it sooner than it should.

The cap will release its power in a quick burst. (See this and the term "split-second") Once it has done that, then it no longer helps your system.

So, if you find the lights dim for more than just a fraction of a second then a cap won't help you. If they dim for sustained periods, you need more power.

Solutions?
Battery array with outside charging (considering your alternator would not be able to keep them charged if stock).
Upgrading your alternator.
Or both.

Better yet, do the big three on your car first then look for other solutions if necessary.

Lol at Costco, Walmart and Sam's excellent customer service.
Old 02-06-2009, 12:11 PM
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Try to find an upgrade for the RL, that's a Joke. Once you start pushing serious power on the system you are not gonna go cruising around with it turned up for long, unless you wear earplugs. I have 2 yellowtops as well as a Stinger 25 Farad cap for 4000 watts RMS, but I only turn it up for short bursts or my ears ring and I can't hear anything for days. Pushing lots of power for long periods also screws up the trunk.
Old 02-12-2009, 09:41 PM
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If the rest of your setup is clipping then that would cause your hears more harm than subwoofers would (granted they're at the same level).

Besides, the amount of distortion has a significant effect on how quickly your ears are damaged. Better yet, the louder the sound is, the less ability your ears and brain have of being able to detect clipping.

But I'm sure you already know that.

I believe I made the comment elsewhere on this forum asking, "would you place a subwoofer in the room adjacent to your listening room?" Maybe the reason why you're blasting apart the trunk is because the sound energy is being wasted on moving the trunk rather than moving air in the cabin.
Old 02-14-2009, 10:55 PM
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The air in the cabin moves just fine with my setup. I have my dog tags hanging from the rear view mirror and it makes them jump when I turn it up, even just a little. Stuff in the cabin has also come apart. My rear view cracked and started leaking oit once for example. It ruined a pair of sunglasses I had in the overhead compartment once (I have no clue how that happened), and everything that is not bolted down in the cabin shakes. I have a real nice setup, and it runs very efficiently. Riding around town I keep the bass turned way down, and don't turn it up. It's just way too loud to bump full blast for a long time. I know some people who would, but I already have hearing issues as it is. Honestly I really only use it to mess with people anymore. It's funny to see people with the "WTF?" look on their face when you shake their ride.
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