What maintenance should I do for a new-to-me '09 RDX?
Hi all,
I picked up a new-to-me '09 RDX Base SH-AWD about 3 weeks ago - it has 107k miles and has been a blast! The previous owner kept good records, so here is the recent work that has been done: 85k - rear diff, transmission, transfer case fluids 88k - new tires 106k - power steering fluid, brake fluid, front & rear brakes/rotors, new battery 107k - Oil change, engine air filter, cabin air filter (did these after buying car) Anything imminent or upcoming that i should do? Thanks! |
You should be due for the 105,000 miles service of valve adjustment and replace spark plugs (2.3T has timing chain that should be good +200,000 miles). Might also consider anti-freeze (maybe water pump if leaking) and serpentine belt kit. Problem areas to watch with the RDX will be the alternator, A/C clutch, P/S pump, and P/S rack. Smaller and less frequent problem areas are door/trunk actuators, HID lamp/ballast, blown speakers, worn center arm rest, coil packs for spark plugs, or groaning mix heat/cool under dash. Once you do the 105K service, it is usually M.I.D. fluid/filter changes and tire rotations until 210K service is due.
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Pretty much^^^^^^
I've been through some repairs, nithing major, just small parts, and at 237K miles, she still runs strong... Mine is an early 2007... I believe to be the 547th RDX produced for 2007 in September 2006! The early 2007's had the most problems, whuch is understandable given Acura was still ironing out the creases!!! By 2009, it should be clear of most of this... Hey, y'all have the power passenger seats and menory seats!!! |
My 08 RDX has a manual passenger seat for the up/back feature. The power passenger seat in the 09 RDX is 4 way and it is pretty slow if you need to move it to up or back to the max positions. I rather have the manual up/back feature since it is way faster or go with a 6 way passenger like the MDX to go up/down also. I'm 6'3" and my wife is 4'11", memory seats with side mirrors are a must have for us.
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If coolant flush hasn't been done yet, definitely do it. It becomes corrosive over time regardless of mileage, and it a likely cause of failed radiators. If it were my car, that would be top priority.
Valve adjustment may or may not be needed - this engine seems to stay within spec better than some others. As the manual says, adjust if they are making noise. Serpent belt is also likely fine - I'm changing mine later this week at 150k even though it looks ok. My brother, who isn't as on top of car care as he should be, had his snap in in CR-V at just over 200k. So, that gives you an idea of how long they should last. Do them if you have the money, it won't hurt, but you are also not likely taking any significant risk by not doing them. |
Originally Posted by Tomtwtwtw
(Post 16347099)
If coolant flush hasn't been done yet, definitely do it. It becomes corrosive over time regardless of mileage, and it a likely cause of failed radiators. If it were my car, that would be top priority.
Valve adjustment may or may not be needed - this engine seems to stay within spec better than some others. As the manual says, adjust if they are making noise. Serpent belt is also likely fine - I'm changing mine later this week at 150k even though it looks ok. My brother, who isn't as on top of car care as he should be, had his snap in in CR-V at just over 200k. So, that gives you an idea of how long they should last. Do them if you have the money, it won't hurt, but you are also not likely taking any significant risk by not doing them. Thanks! |
I'm sure there are, but it's one of the items I leave to my local Honda shop so I don't have any direct experience to share. They do the flush pretty cheap (well under $100, I forget the exact price), so to me it's worth it.
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Originally Posted by mrgold35
(Post 16346914)
My 08 RDX has a manual passenger seat for the up/back feature. The power passenger seat in the 09 RDX is 4 way and it is pretty slow if you need to move it to up or back to the max positions. I rather have the manual up/back feature since it is way faster or go with a 6 way passenger like the MDX to go up/down also. I'm 6'3" and my wife is 4'11", memory seats with side mirrors are a must have for us.
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Don’t forget the PCV valve
PCV valve. not expensive. But if it fails will trigger oil leaks. Very easy to replace. Right on top of the engine. While your doing a coolant flush! You need to take the coolant reservoir to reach it. Might consider getting the pcv valve hose while you are in there. Hose was 8 bucks at stealership. |
Originally Posted by Boxster98
(Post 16349042)
PCV valve. not expensive. But if it fails will trigger oil leaks. Very easy to replace. Right on top of the engine. Amen. I failed to replace the PCV valve on our MDX, it got stopped up, and now the main seal leaks |
Originally Posted by Boxster98
(Post 16349042)
PCV valve. not expensive. But if it fails will trigger oil leaks. Very easy to replace. Right on top of the engine. While your doing a coolant flush! You need to take the coolant reservoir to reach it. Might consider getting the pcv valve hose while you are in there. Hose was 8 bucks at stealership.
Originally Posted by AlanW
(Post 16349271)
Amen. I failed to replace the PCV valve on our MDX, it got stopped up, and now the main seal leaks
Searched around and didn't find much - the last time I did a coolant exchange on my old Corolla, all I did was unhook the lower radiator hose, drain, and than fill up the tank again. |
Pcv valve
Here is all you do. Simpler than oil change |
I would skip valve adjustment if your engine sounds nice. I am at 177K and never had it done, engine sounds nice, I am going to sell it in a year, so adjusting valves is a waste of money,
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Wonder if that's why I'm leaking almost a quart a day...
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Originally Posted by Midnight Mystery
(Post 16350752)
Wonder if that's why I'm leaking almost a quart a day...
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Originally Posted by russianDude
(Post 16350834)
You belive you PCV is broken? Waiting to hear dealers diagnostic on your leak. I have not seen any failing PCVs on RDX forums, but there is always a first time I suppose. I have no idea in hell whats causing it, or the lean A/F ratio. It could be PCV, cam phaser, oil filter gasket, oil pan gasket, rear main or front main... They'll be able to look and tell probably within a few minutes... With job hunting and tge holidays I'll be WAY overdue for an oil change but I'm addind 2-3 quarts a week so what difference does it make... Only thing is I moved and my dealer is 200 miles away so I have to wait until January, but it'll be fine. |
Let's hope its not expensive fix. I am thinking if it was your PCV valve going bad, you would get check engine light.
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Originally Posted by russianDude
(Post 16350846)
Let's hope its not expensive fix. I am thinking if it was your PCV valve going bad, you would get check engine light.
I do get a CEL for running lean occasionally. I'm used to dumping $5-900 in repairs, this will be like the 10th time now, but I can't stand the thought of getting rid of it, especially now that almost everything aside the engine abd tranny are mostly new... |
Take a chance and tinker with it yourself dealership is going to rape you. most important took is a floor jack if you have one. i fixed my oil leak, cost 10 bucks for the gaskets |
Originally Posted by Boxster98
(Post 16350862)
Take a chance and tinker with it yourself dealership is going to rape you. most important took is a floor jack if you have one. i fixed my oil leak, cost 10 bucks for the gaskets My dealer has done all of the maintenance since I got my RDX. They usually give us a 10% discount. I don't have a jack or lift access and I am not living somewhere I can do any work on anything. |
Originally Posted by airlyss
(Post 16349712)
Thanks! Are there any guides on how to do the PCV and coolant flush? I'd rate my mechanical ability at a 5 out of 10 - have accumulated a lot of tools and very comfortable doing simple maintenance (oil changes, rear diff, transmission, brake pads).
Searched around and didn't find much - the last time I did a coolant exchange on my old Corolla, all I did was unhook the lower radiator hose, drain, and than fill up the tank again. Other years must be the same. Part number 2 on radiator (see acura parts on line under radiator) |
Originally Posted by Boxster98
(Post 16349042)
PCV valve. not expensive. But if it fails will trigger oil leaks. Very easy to replace. Right on top of the engine. While your doing a coolant flush! You need to take the coolant reservoir to reach it. Might consider getting the pcv valve hose while you are in there. Hose was 8 bucks at stealership. |
Other than mentioned transmission pressure switches, brake pressure switch, yaw sensor and window actuators might go bad in you....happened to me. |
why spend money to replace PVC if its not broken. I have yet to see a thread where someone had problem with PVC. There are a lot of things in the old car you can just start replacing with the thinking "what if", its not cost effective.
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Originally Posted by russianDude
(Post 16384189)
why spend money to replace PVC if its not broken. I have yet to see a thread where someone had problem with PVC. There are a lot of things in the old car you can just start replacing with the thinking "what if", its not cost effective.
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What is going on never heard about the pvc now it’s the hot repair/matinence item? Lol. |
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