hues10

Ok - I admit, that I still treat my 2011 RDX with kid gloves. Not my daily driver, so I have only put 4500 miles on it in a year. No mods yet, but they will come. Here is my question. I only fool around with the paddle shifters here and there when driving. The highest RPM's I get is probably 4K before I shift, then I am going to fast anyway to go faster. Do you guys redline the RDX, or how high do you go when driving before you shift. It seems like all the mods seem to increase Torque and HP after 4500 RPM's and I just don't drive there? Thanks for your comments, even if you call me a baby (or worse)

mrgold35

You really need to go for Hondata! It is only $300+shipping, maybe 48 hrs turn around time depending on location/shipping. You can start to spool at 1500 rpms, extra mid-range/high end punch of up to 26HP and 33 TQ, higher rev limit to 7200 rpms in sport mode, increased mpgs, and easier/more fun to drive.

I really don't use sport mode all that much except driving in the mountains and I want to maintain rpms/gears up/down the hills. If I use the paddles in "D", its to get the rpms up to get the turbo power sooner if I need to pass in a hurry (don't want to waste time waiting for the 5AT to downshift AND the turbo to spool). I also use the paddles on a curve to up the rpms, slow a little bit before, and power into and out of a curve. SH-AWD doesn't work without power. I tried using sport mode for fast 0-60 acceleration; but, I can't shift by feel and bump against the fuel cutoff sometimes when I'm not looking at the rpms. Sport mode is easier in my TSX because I can feel/hear when I'm getting close to red line with i-Vtec.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

honda engines have a distinct characteristic.
they all make peak power above 4000 RPM.

this is why when you add mods, you gain all around but you mostly feel it in the upper RPM's.

you cant change the fact that its making peak power up top.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

agreed with mr.gold...with hondata you will be able to change some parameters to an extent...

hues10

Thanks for the replies basically saying I haven't felt anything yet since I don't think I have revved it past 4000 rpm's. Maybe this weekend when I go visit the parents 60 miles away. Hondata is first item on my list to get, just for the mpg increase alone.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Vtec just kicked in, Yo!

GSJake

If you plan on mods other than just the Hondata reflash get the flashpro. More money but you can custom tune it and do data logging. Opens up a world of possibility!

hues10

You realize data logging to me is like speaking French or Russian. I know what the concept is, and I know you all talk about Air Flow ratio, and boost injector stuff with bigger fuel injectors and my head starts spinning. But I am game. Start a little at a time. Everyone recommends the downpipe, but that doesn't seem to be able to be installed by a DIY (newbie). Just need a little cash and time to start the project. Thanks everyone and stay tuned (no pun intended).

mrgold35

I'm 100% with you on this! I just did Hondata, ETS intercooler (group buy), Hondata heatshield gasket, K/N drop in filter, eibach lowering springs, and Progress RSB (group buy). I've been very happy with the results of more power+increased mpgs+improved handling. I just stick to the M.I.D. maint schedule and after +118,000 miles, she still drives like new (actually better than new).

hues10

MrGold, if you don't mind me asking, where did you get group buys on the ETS intercooler? Or more importantly, what did you pay? IM me if this breaks any forum rules on sharing pricing. I didn't want to spend the asking price of $850 for one.

Thanks

mrgold35

The group buys were on this forum. Forum members contacted the vendor(s) and asked about making performance upgrades for the RDX (intercooler and progress RSB). A group buy is started to get up to 25-50 forum members to commit to purchase to help pay for research and development for the new part. Unless you can start another group buy of 15-25 folks, it might be difficult to get a break on the price if the vendor is only selling a few a year now. The group buy for the intercooler in Jan/13 saved me about $250 compared to the current list price. (Can't remember if I did a deposit or not that was added to the final price)

You might have to start another one and ask the vendor about the number folks needed for what % discount. I wish you lived close to Albuquerque and I would let you take my RDX for a spin to feel the difference with Hondata+ETS intercooler.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

the group buy for the ETS intercooler was an introductory price.
after the ETS intercooler was introduced, the price went up.

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

go to vit vipers page and get acquainted with the proses its a big difference over just the basic reflash. however the down time is only about 3 min between flashes. not 2 weeks.

yes it requires you to be more involved but its worth it in that your going to have more Torque and Horsepower from 2000 - 6500 RPM. better mileage and MORE FUN!!! if you chose.

csargemg

Here's how it breaks down:


If you want to spend $400 or so and get a nice little all around upgrade that you WILL feel, get just a reflash. What that will do is it will change the parameters in the ECU to get you a little more power out of this overbuilt engine with the stock setup. Hondata raises the pressure that the turbocharger spools up to, and increases the speed that it will build boost. That means that you'll get boost faster down low, which sounds for your driving style like exactly what you want. You don't even need to remove the ECU and send it in anymore. You can just go to the Hondata website, and start calling their dealers nearest to you and ask if they have a 'Dealer Flashpro.' If they have this, all they need to do is reflash your ECU on site, it takes only 20 minutes and you pay the dealer.


If you want to go further than just doing the ECU tune, then the base is the flashpro.,starters. I would really recommend getting the flashpro and downpipe combo found here: RV6 Downpipe Kit for 07-12 RDX


I think you could email them and ask for a discount, or alternatively finding a few others on the forums and setting up a group buy. They seemed interested in such based on this thread here: https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...oupbuy-919406/


As far as installation for the downpipe, it's actually a rough but doable DIY - it literally is nuts and bolts (and just some careful unscrewing and rescrewing of the sensors. It's at the point where, having done it, I'd recommend it first of the line before unbolting or rebolting anything else, and as the second upgrade after Flashpro. A few of us are happy to help walk you through installs. It's actually no rougher than anything else - intercooler delete and such - it's just annoying and in a tight space. But there's not really anything you're at too much of a risk of breaking down in there either. It just involves removing the intercooler, disconnecting the wiring for the sensors from plug and play harnesses, then unbolting the downpipe and secondary cat, then unbolting (and maybe using cutters) to pull heatshielding off the primary cat, and then pulling it up and out.


You might want to go to a shop and explain that a number of people have installation and have the mechanic help you out. A couple hundred bucks to have all the right tools available and some help might be worth it if you're going this far.


Datalogging isn't as bad as it sounds. You just hook up the dongle thing to your car's on-board diagonistics port, press the datalog button to start it, and then press it again to turn it off. Then you load it into your computer. The datalog just records the sensor input from the car's sensors and then you can see them.


Checking the air fuel ratio is important because it helps you to see if you're getting to 'lean,' which means that there's too much air compared to fuel. More air means more power, because you can burn every molecule of fuel in that cylinder. It also means that there's more pressure to move the cylinder, and such, more air left over to help move after the explosion in the cylinder to drive everything. More fuel, however, helps to cool the cylinder itself with its liquid, and helps to prevent 'knock,' which is the main threat to tuning and engine. An air fuel ratio of 14.7 is what's called 'stoichiometric,' which is exactly enough air to burn all the fuel present. But at that point you would be getting no cooling. For a turbocharged car, since you're getting more power out of a smaller, under-pressure cylinder, you want an air-fuel ratio of about 11.6-11.8. A normally aspirated car, however, can run at a higher air-fuel ratio.


I've been learning a lot since I started, and this is a fun hobby, especially if you try to get at why things are happening and figure it all out. My own explanations may be flawed in places; I welcome correction! In any case, I'd just recommend to do what seems fun, and there are a number of build paths to follow. The earlier you decide exactly what you want (set a goal) the more money you will save.

hues10

Great explanations csargemg! Thanks. I did fool around this weekend with the manual shifting. Got it to about 4500 RPMs in second or third I think, then I was going 65, so had to back off since it was night and speed limit was 50. I did feel it start to pull though. I am definitely going to do the Flashpro. Just a matter of when though. And somewhat off topic, I just realized after a year, that the steering wheel is telescopic. Been driving for a year with my arms extended two inches further than I should have. Still learning about car it seems. Main car is 2004 Saturn Vue, so please excuse me....

csargemg

I meant intercooler replacement in my earlier post btw. You definitely don't want to delete the intercooler!

csargemg

You can move the steering wheel? How?

hues10

Wheel tilts up and down like any steering wheel and you can also pull it closer to you. Guess that is the telescopic part. I have 2011 so possibly that isn't in the 2007 -2009 series.

Kaputnik

Haha don't feel bad about the steering wheel adjustment. I've had my RDX for about 7 months and haven't tried sport mode at all. The original owner confessed he hadn't either, and couldn't show me how it worked. Kinda lame I know, but I have an S2000 for the really fun stuff.