Ltfa182

Hey all,

Just purchased a 2011 RDX for my wife and we love it so far. Just thought I'd post a maintenance thread just in case anyone needed a reference. Theres 80k on it as of now.

Just for reference heres what was done a 66k according to the Carfax:

Antifreeze/coolant flushed/changed
Cabin air filter replaced/cleaned
Oil and filter changed
Power steering fluid flushed/changed
Transmission fluid changed

Oil changes were done very regularly according to the carfax.

Next week:

Replacing both rear shocks - One is actually blown, the other is fine. Read up on this before I bought the car so I was prepared.
Transmission Flush - Mechanic recommended this every 30k to keep the trans in top shape.

I'm active on driveaccord and v6performance because I have a 07 6-6 Sedan. Excited to be a part of the Acura community. I'm trying really hard to fight my urge to keep this RDX stock, but I have to remind myself I'm not the one driving it everyday!

Tomtwtwtw

Sounds like it has been well taken care of, enjoy the car!

mrgold35

You might be due on brake flush also (every 3 yrs or new brakes). I did my serpentine belt around 100k. I waited until the 100k service to do my spark plugs and I wished I did them earlier. I didn't realize the slight loss in hp, mpg, and slower starts with the old plugs. I got most of it back after the new spark plugs. The exact same issue with my TSX at her 100k service (both RDX and TSX were due around the same time). I went ahead and did my spark plugs at 75k on my MDX to ensure max performance and mpgs for another +75k after that.

Assuming the 5AT transmission service included the transfer case, unless your 11 is fwd? The sh-awd rear diff should have been changed by now also. Since you are familiar with Honda/Acura vehicles, transmission "flush" scares a lot of us with our transmissions. Some places use the word "flush" when they remove 99% of the 5AT fluid with a machine; which, our AT don't like one bit. Not sure if the mechanic is using "flush" interchangeable with " 3X Drain/refill". Doing a 3X "Drain and refill" or even a 1X "Drain and refill" will ensure AT longevity compared to a mechanical flush.

I replaced my struts (OEM) and rear shocks (KYB) around the 110K mark. The KYB feel pretty good and have no issues with them (+136K on them now).

hues10

So I changed the transmission fluid (4 qts) in my 2004 Saturn Vue V-6 Five Speed (Honda Powertrain) with the Acura Transmission Fluid. Now granted, I had put Castrol Transmission Fluid (for Honda cars) in it approx. 2 1/2 years ago (4 qts again). I think I notice a difference in the shifting. Like a perceptible smoother type of thing. I did it as an experiment to get the Transmission plug screw off and fill it that way. Piece of cake with a breaker bar and just a little force. Now what does that have to do with Acura. Well now I am confident of doing the same thing to my 2011 RDX. It has 47K miles on it now, and time to do one drain and fill. I bought 12 qts of Acura Transmission Fluid, so I might just do one on the Acura, and do one more on the Saturn. I love doing my own maintenance when it works out. I still haven't put on the TMIC and Manifold gasket I bought in September. Tried this, but was thwarted by not being able to get the OEM TMIC rubber hose off. Quit and haven't gotten back to it. But it is on the list given the warmer weather coming in Florida. Wish me luck on the Tranny this weekend.

mrgold35

I hope you are still taking about your vehicle.

Ltfa182

Thanks for your input. I plan on doing sparkplugs, replacement brake pads and rotors (rotors only if necessary), brake fluid flush while I'm doing the brakes anyway, cabin air filter, and trans flush all at 90k. I'll leave the trans flush to my mechanic. He is referring to the 3x drain and refill not a machine flush. My car is fwd so I do not need to worry about the differential.

Rear shocks went in today and got a fresh alignment. I also used KYB replacements. Car feels much better.

When I do my plugs I'll be doing them on my accord too! Iridium for the win.

Currently 83k on the clock.

lumn8

I just purchased a 2011 RDX SH_AWD. Turbo. i am only getting approx. 18mpg around town. is this normal? i would like to change the spark plugs. What Plugs is recommended for this vehicle please? The car has 70k miles.... thank you

Tomtwtwtw

It's rated at 17 mpg city, so 18 is definitely within the normal range if you do a lot of stop and go. For plugs, get iridium - just plug the car details into any auto parts site to get the specific plugs available for the RDX.

DRR98

Back to the op...

My experience with our FWD, the axles became a proven weakness. When one begins to fail it feels like a slight thumping on the steering wheel and progresses to feeling it in the floorboard. Our first failure was at about 80k and again at 98k.

We went thru a few axles before the dealer ended up putting Napa axles that are still working well.

I would think your rear brake pads are still good at 80k.

Other things to look at...

Cleaning the intercooler fins if needed. Be very careful not to bend any fins.

Hmm, what else?...

Ltfa182

Funny you bring up the axle. Front axle was replaced according to the carfax at around 60k. So maybe not for another 60k? Hopefully they used a good part. Intercooler looks clean, but I'm sure cleaning it couldnt hurt

Ltfa182

I would say I'm getting around 20mpg city driving right now which isn't bad, but mine is FWD. Spark plugs are something you replace every once in awhile. The way I see it, if the OEM iridium is good for 80-100k then why not just buy them again? I'm going Denso iridiums though since they are just a tad cheaper then the NGK's. The NGK's on the accord are cheaper then the Densos, so I'll be doing that also. As long as they are iridium for me....and not like autozone brand

hues10

Just a quick note on my Transmission drain/fill this weekend. To my surprise and dismay, a quart of transmission fluid is not 32 oz. So I measured out what I took out and it filled a milk gallon carton, and about 14 oz of another container. Now you all say that I should get out 3.5 quarts of transmission fluid, but if you added that up, that is 4 + qts. So I weighed the containers, and lo an behold a gallon of transmission fluid does not weigh 132 oz. It was actually coming in closer to 114 oz. I weighed the qt sized transmission fluid, and with container, it weighed 30 oz. (28 oz. of Fluid). Suffice to say, I put in 4 qts plus 10 oz. of new transmission fluid. It seems to actually shift a little smoother. However, I am not sure I have the exact level I started with, since every time I was trying to check it, the dipstick would have fluid all over it. If I check it cold after sitting overnight, what level should the oil be. At the bottom hole, in between the bottom/top hole, or at the top hole. Lesson learned here: Mr. Science says the density of transmission fluid is less than that of water. Hence, a qt. of oil is less than 32 oz's. Never cared to know this.

Ltfa182

^^^I'm not sure exactly what you're saying

hues10

Sorry for my rambling on the transmission Fluid densities. I changed the transmission fluid in two cars the past two weeks, utilizing a kitchen scale to measure what I took out. So say I took out 128 oz of fluid (by weight). In that example, I thought that putting in 4 qts. of new fluid would be exactly what I needed. I did not weigh a quart of transmission fluid, until doing my second one, and the weight of a new qt. of fluid is 28 oz.of fluid. Thus, I need approx. 4.57 qts to equate to the 128 oz. taken out. I guess I am saying weigh your fluids, or use volume measurements to determine how much was taken out, and how much you need to put back. Everyone else will say use the dipstick, but that is the post change check. That's all.

Ltfa182

Ahh okay I get it now haha. Sorry the first post was a little confusing

bluetroll

My 2010 is at about 50,000KM or about 31,000Miles.

I'm going to change the transmission fluid in the spring with some OEM Acura stuff.... my question is, what about the differential fluid? center and rear diff?

Ltfa182

Mine is FWD so I don't have that. Maybe someone will chime in who knows more about it?

Ltfa182

Replaced rear brakes and rotors last Sunday...because on Saturday I was stopping and heard this awful grinding noise. Turns out I ran out of brake pad lol. I believe the pads and rotors were original.

Almost 87k on the clock

Tomtwtwtw

May as well do it all at once. Based on the mileage you shouldn't need any of those services done, but the at 7 years it's not a bad idea to replace some of those long-term fluids. Also recommend you change the coolant, brake fluid and maybe power steering fluid if you haven't already.

In other news, I've put more miles on my 2010 in the last year than yours has since it was born.

Ltfa182

Changed cabin air filter and engine air filter. Both didn't seem that dirty, but I had already taken them out so I replaced them anyway. Getting prepared to do the trans flush towards the end of next month

Ltfa182

Trans flush done! 94k. Also, did an oil change.