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2007 RDX turbo issue and suspension issue (seems scary)...
I've recently noticed a very loud clunk if I pull out turning left and accelerate 1/3 throttle or more... I can't zip out in traffic... Also, I have less torque, the turbo feels like it experiancicing excessive turbo lag, kinda...
I had the front struts replaced around 201K miles, currently at 209K... It had a certain rattle to it, doing it again, but nothing else feels wrong... Might take it into dealer and see if the part was defective, maybe can get a discounted repair... If it's even the strut^^^ I'm scared over the turbo though... It builds boost like normal, but it gets jerky if I get into it like not even halfway... I haven't given it full throttle at all... I also have a check engine, check emmissions and check SH-AWD light... It's come on randomly since I got it at 175K, usually in cooler or cold weather, here in Mississippi, it's pretty cold this week... Usually, it'll turn off after a while but since yesterday, it hasn't... I always thought it was an electrical glitch, but maybe not... I've had lots of electrical stuff go on on this car already though, it's cried wolf before... If its it's still on to arrow, I'll bring it to AutoZone and have the code pulled and go from there... But sometimes I feel like I need an axle, then I need a strut, then the turbo acts up... It made a weird noise a couple weeks ago, but until monday, that was it... All of this happened Tuesday night... Did I really have three parts fail in one day. |
Please help, anyone, if you have anything to say... I'm really worried about my baby!!!!
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I'm going to have the codes pulled at an auto parts store and go from there... I still notice a slight burning plastic smell after any drives, been taking it very easy...
Please help if you can... |
Results are P0171, fuel filter/pump... Ok, it has two filters and two pumps, they are modular units... $999 for parts at autozone??? Even the guy at the counter said "woah!!!"
It didn't even have the AWD code come up... Still doesn't explain the clunking... Making appt. at Honda dealer for week after next... Taking it easy for now... |
Check engine/emissions light went off, check SH-AWD light hasn't come on today...
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Originally Posted by Midnight Mystery
(Post 16137788)
Check engine/emissions light went off, check SH-AWD light hasn't come on today...
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The clunking when turning would lead me to think it is your axle or rack and pinion. I would definitely get your front end check to see if they are in good condition especially with that mileage before doing the fuel pump. But seeing that you had the struts done on the front, I think the person who did it forgot to put something back or line it up correctly. It can also be someone forgot to tighten the screws. It happens, we all make mistake. I would take it back there and explain what has been happening since you changed the struts. I don't think it is your fuel pump. Doesn't sound like a fuel pump problem.
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First time online, thanks for everything, every bit helps... Since I was last online, and since the last time I saw the RDX (11 days ago) it has been fine... Put about 400 miles on it... I was told the warning lights were on, but would come off and on intermitanly... Yesterday, she did have to take of fast after pulling out right and it did "pop" several times...
I have an appointment with my Honda dealer tomorrow to have it checked.... They're the ones that originally changed the struts 10k miles ago in early August... My steering g has always felt very light, I have also been hearing a power steering whine since the night I took delivery 2/26/17 at 175k miles... Thanks again.... Also, the battery has been disconnected several times during my ownership.... |
I'm getting it checked right now, we'll see!!!
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Loud clunk is rear engine mount... Tech said he thought the motor was gonna fall out on the test drive, lol!!! She also said the faint clicking is related as well...
Got upsold into a new blend door on HVAC, been needing it, didn't cost much.... Also, the lean fuel ration is causing the rough idle... They're rather I bring it to Acura vs having them, a local Honda dealer, attempt a repair as diagnostics and part numbers are a little different... She said (service advisor) it would probably cost more if I had the Honda dealer attempt a repair... I'll check around on that... Thanks!!! |
Lol never expected that. I'm glad you found the problem. Did they say which mount? I would honestly replace all three of them because if one is failing most likely the others are to follow. If Acura is charging an arm and a leg then have a local shop put in new oem mounts
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Originally Posted by Kevin125
(Post 16145287)
Lol never expected that. I'm glad you found the problem. Did they say which mount? I would honestly replace all three of them because if one is failing most likely the others are to follow. If Acura is charging an arm and a leg then have a local shop put in new oem mounts
They said it was the passenger lower mount... For that and the blend actuator I was quoted a little over $250... The tech will only charge for 1 hour labor... He doesn't want to mess with the lean A/F ratio... As they're just a Honda dealer... He said it would be difficult for him to fix and it would cost me more for him to try to fix it than it would for someone who knows more about RDX's and has access to acura only parts... He also has declined fixing electrical problems before for the same reasons... He's trying to save us money!!! Also, it did kill on me relief at a red light, the lean causes it to run rough if A/C kicks, I had the temp set to like 75, so... Otherwise doing fine, scheduled to be repaired (mount and blend door) two weeks, Thursday!!! |
hey do you have flashpro? if so send me a data log. if not ....?uh hmmm need to think about it.
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Originally Posted by TheWrench116
(Post 16153175)
hey do you have flashpro? if so send me a data log. if not ....?uh hmmm need to think about it.
No, still 100% stock!!!I've wondered about that with an aftermarket flash and intake, but haven't modded anything yet...Haven't seen a CEL since new engine mount last Thursday, still a little rough time to time, haven't ran A/C yet to see... However, clunking and that little rattle are both gone... Go figure... I was almost certain that the rattle would still be there after, but it was gone!!!Might I add, it feels fine to drive, maybe lacking a little midrange punch, I gues due to lean, but I may all be in my head... I drove it last Thursday night, after the new parts were installed, didn't floor it, but eased it up to redline, where it went fine!!! This has so far been my scaryest problem, and cheapest/quickest repair at around 1 hour!!! Still worried about the mysterious lean, maybe an 02 sensor? Otherwise, feeling good!!!We shall see!!!She's got a long week ahead for her!!! |
Update- RDX right front strut mount area (I think) bag an rattling again on Saturday... Well, the engine isn't gonna fall out atleast!!! :/
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They probably should have replaced all the engine mounts? This was a common issue on the Mazda 3. They replaced them all on that car. You might also look at your washer bottle. Mine makes a noise and that's what it is. The bolt or push clip is missing and I don't k ow what size it is. So I haven't replaced it because I haven't had time to mess with figuring out the size.
Check your rubber air boot from the air box for cracks. Lean condition is gonna be an air leak or a sensor or a fuel supply shortage. |
Originally Posted by MtnRDX
(Post 16324949)
They probably should have replaced all the engine mounts? This was a common issue on the Mazda 3. They replaced them all on that car. You might also look at your washer bottle. Mine makes a noise and that's what it is. The bolt or push clip is missing and I don't k ow what size it is. So I haven't replaced it because I haven't had time to mess with figuring out the size.
Check your rubber air boot from the air box for cracks. Lean condition is gonna be an air leak or a sensor or a fuel supply shortage. Thanks!!! It's been about 25K miles since then without any trouble... It does run a little lean and rough at idle at certain times... Only for a second, then comes out of it... It has been losing oil, however... A few weeks ago, there was no oil on the dipstick, and the oil light would cone on when making quick parking lot turns or being on an uphill surface... Added 2 quarts, but couldn't figure out how much to add, although, I think I got it close... Last week, had an oil cange done, and dealer said it was 1 quart low... I checked it the other night, and it looked like it was at or near it's fill level, but I couldn't really tell because it streaks up the side of the dipstick so bad, even after wiping/reinserting... I think vtec also quit working, no cel, and otherwise running fine!!! At about 233,650 miles... Any ideas??? |
Wow, you really drive you RDX a lot! Did you check the seals on the motor and see if there is oil on them? |
Originally Posted by CSmoney28
(Post 16325267)
Wow, you really drive you RDX a lot! Did you check the seals on the motor and see if there is oil on them? I really can't see there and I don't do the maintinance myself, but my service advisor said there's a small oil leak... Not sure where, though... I'm wondering if I am having a vtec silinoid or actuator issue, IDK??? |
You would probably have to take the Intercooler off to check it and it’s a pain to get that right rear bolt out. Did he say it was anything to worry about? It could just be age those seals can’t last forever. |
Originally Posted by CSmoney28
(Post 16325910)
You would probably have to take the Intercooler off to check it and it’s a pain to get that right rear bolt out. Did he say it was anything to worry about? It could just be age those seals can’t last forever. No, but I might ask where it's coming from... I'm not prepared to start tearing stuff apart on my own... I'm more worried it's burning oil, like my Optima does... I'm not so worried about a leak... My Camry leaked 1 quart per 1k miles, I'd just a quart every 8 weeks, or so... Thought it was the valve cover gasket, so I replaced it, then realized it was also the front main, so I turned to ATP 205 RE-SEAL, like Scotty Kilmer said to do... Not knowing ratio of solvet+oil, trying to see if I could fix the leak, I added 3.7 quarts oil, .3 quarts ATP205 re-seal, well, no luck... Lost so oil, so instead of adding oil, I added the rest of the atp205 re-seal... So now, 3 quarts oil, 1 quart re-seal... Immidiatly noticed a tappet... On the far left cylinder, behind the freeze-out plug on the block... Lasted 3 months, gradually losing power, until it got really slow, then started knocking... That was in 3/2015... Sitting in the yard since... Losing $100 a month in insurance so the city doesn't haul it off... |
I hate the oil dipstick layout on this thing. The only way I have found to check it is at home. Pull the stick, wipe it off, go do something else for a while (which give's the oil pulled up the tube time to run back down) then go insert pull check.
PITA! |
If it was burning oil, you should see and/or smell it. Burning oil will give a slightly blue-ish smoke out the exhaust, and a very nasty burning smell. By comparison, burning coolant would be a white smoke with a sweet smell. If neither is happening, it's most likely leaking out a seal somewhere. It's a pain to check under that intercooler, but it could be worthwhile just to eliminate possibilities.
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Originally Posted by Tomtwtwtw
(Post 16327206)
If it was burning oil, you should see and/or smell it. Burning oil will give a slightly blue-ish smoke out the exhaust, and a very nasty burning smell. By comparison, burning coolant would be a white smoke with a sweet smell. If neither is happening, it's most likely leaking out a seal somewhere. It's a pain to check under that intercooler, but it could be worthwhile just to eliminate possibilities.
Ok... I'll have to ask my dealer to check it next change, and keep the level good until then... I barely even open the hood on the RDX, it's pointless because everything is so unique I can't identify some of the parts... I am very observant when I drive the car... I can tell that something is going on before it's really noticeable... The RDX does produce a nasty smell after hitting high RPM or spending a lot of time on the highway... It smells roasted.... Like a plasticy, rubbery chemical smell... Smells like hot tar... It's been doing this for over a year now.... I assume it's where oil leaked and got hot and burned against the exhuast or something... Lits of guys say their TL's do this for no apparent reason, and that it's normal... IDK about that, but it feels ok... Minus not having Vtec right now... It's has been having a lean A/F ratio, causing an occasional rough idle at a stoplight... And it may stall once a year when going into reverse... My dealer said they can't do much to help... I'd need to go to an Acura dealer, not a Hobda dealer, and the one near me will change stuff that works... It would be a bad experience to use my only local dealer... I should start looking for indy shops... My Optima doesn't leak a drop, but after 1k miles, it's a quart low... No smoke or smell... |
I go with a dealership further away because of the service there being superior to the ones closer to me. I have four dealerships closer to me. I go to the one that’s the fifth closest to me to get the service I want with my RDX. |
There's a terrible dealership less than 10 minutes from where the RDX lives... That dealer is probably the closest one to where I live also...
I'm 90 minutes from any Acura dealer... And repairs and service usually get done when I am with the RDX, every other week, usually... The Honda dealer we use is now a 2 1/2 hour drive from where I will be living now... But they know the RDX and have been serviceing it the past 54k miles... An oil change at Honda is about $40 Whereas Acura charges over $80 |
Originally Posted by CSmoney28
(Post 16328964)
I go with a dealership further away because of the service there being superior to the ones closer to me. I have four dealerships closer to me. I go to the one that’s the fifth closest to me to get the service I want with my RDX. I understand, we do the same thing... I know a good dealer, I know a bad dealer and I know an independent shop right behind the good dealer... |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...aad505ff47.jpg
Check transmission came on last week and it threw a lean A/F codd as it's been doing... MID also shows Check Engine, Check Emissions and Check SH-AWD, been doing that since I got it a couple years ago... Once again, it's lean... This was on again today... Does it randomly, usually when cold out... VSA light came on while driving... These are the codes pulled... It's been losing oil... Leaking, and I'm pretty sure it's burning a little too... Also, V-tec doesn't seem to kick in anymore... Any ideas? |
Camshaft position sensor or actuator perhaps? Wild guess though. Good luck!
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Originally Posted by Tomtwtwtw
(Post 16333336)
Camshaft position sensor or actuator perhaps? Wild guess though. Good luck!
Ok... I'll take these into consideration... Everything helps... |
Where you driving the RDX hard before it reached optimal temperature? |
Originally Posted by CSmoney28
(Post 16333719)
Where you driving the RDX hard before it reached optimal temperature? Not really... Kinda subjective though... Well, I've had it almost 3 years and I haven't like floored it when ice cold anytime recently... TBH, I drove it hard when I got it, but that was 40k + miles ago now... It still feels punchy and all... I can confirm that it will accelerate just as well as it did new... Well, before vtec quit... I hate that I'm now living 3 hours from the dealer that's been doing all the work on it since righ after I got it... But being a Honda dealer, they were afraid to tear into it running lean, though... The tech and service advisor said that they could do it, but not having the exact equipment needed for an RDX, it would require more diagnostic time, this labor would double... They usually give us a silent 10% discount, however... |
Looks like you have 2 throttle position sensor codes. I would do a price check on that if it were me. And I would check around for leaks starting at the air box.
Sometimes if you can swap a reasonably priced part to see if it is your issue it can be worth it. That 1717 code, I cause that to trip on sometimes if I don't drive it for a few days. It's my fault. I put it in reverse and let off the brake and start to go before it even shifts into reverse is why. It is a little slower response than my other vehicles to get in gear and if I don't wait I will trip it. |
Originally Posted by MtnRDX
(Post 16333981)
Looks like you have 2 throttle position sensor codes. I would do a price check on that if it were me. And I would check around for leaks starting at the air box.
Sometimes if you can swap a reasonably priced part to see if it is your issue it can be worth it. That 1717 code, I cause that to trip on sometimes if I don't drive it for a few days. It's my fault. I put it in reverse and let off the brake and start to go before it even shifts into reverse is why. It is a little slower response than my other vehicles to get in gear and if I don't wait I will trip it. I was thinking the same thing... If I accelerate at about 1/4 throttle... Upshifing at about 3K rpm and moving briskly, it will bost off/on rapidly and make the car jerk a bit... I don't remember it doing this before... It's fine at lower and higher RPMs though... I too shift into reverse early sonetimes... I try not to, but it happenes sometimes... Never got a CEL immidiatly after, or felt that quick shifting would throw a code... Thanks... |
I can cobfirm that I'm leaking oil like Niagra Falls!
Can't take a pic, phone is full... But, I've been at a hotel for 24 hrs. now, and having been gone for atleast 6 hours of that time, I have a puddle the size of a newspaper opened 1/2 way... About 2 square feet, or so... I've been checking for a while, and could never get any oil... But I noticed the ground was wet after she drove off... Then dipped a paper towel in it to see if it was water, and it was pure oil... Atleast I can fix a leak, but damn, IDK if it cant wait... |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...f109387b0c.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...4aca2a2730.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...0d858e4967.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...3fcce4f2ae.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...ff13987782.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...edb1aebd7e.jpg There is old oil leaked on the ground too by other vehicles, but the shiney stuff is from the RDX... I had the front tires at the block up front... So, it seems the oil is leaking from near or even with where the axels go into the transmission, or even with the center hub on the front wheels, to put it differently... I fear that it's the rear main... I also think I'm having a leak on the pulley side of the engine... Notice how there is also a small, separate puddle on the passenger side of the parking space... The big puddle is about the size of a medium pizza box, and the smaller puddle is about the size of a small plate, or saucer... They have absorbed into the asphalt slightly since earlier, but not much at all.... Please shoot suggestions... Also, will a bad throttle position sensor cause jerky acceleration? Thanks!!! On the bright side, the RDX hit 235,000 miles!!! |
BTW, all of that oil was lost between 10pm Thursday night and 10pm Friday night, and it was out being driven for about 6 hours within that time...
I added a quart Thursday afternoon... Oil light hasn't come on like it did last month when I first discovered the problem... Also, my dipstick isn't working right... It's not registering a measurable amount of oil... It either smears up the side, or reads blank, like it has no oil at all... I've tried several techniques, but no success... Other RDX owners hate their dipsticks too, so I've heard... Once again, thanks!!! |
When I drive my RDX hard before it warms up all the way it throws codes too. The RDX doesn’t like it when your heavy on the throttle before the engine is completely warmed up. |
Originally Posted by CSmoney28
(Post 16334591)
When I drive my RDX hard before it warms up all the way it throws codes too. The RDX doesn’t like it when your heavy on the throttle before the engine is completely warmed up. Yeah, I really don't drive it that hard... The turbo has so much torque I never need to floor it.... Maybe 1/2 throttle at the most it seems... |
Yeah, what happens is, I shift it into reverse and then hit the gas to move too soon and it gets mad. Once I pull it in gear it is slower to actually shift into reverse than my other cars. If I get on the gas and then feel it get into gear after, that causes the light every time.
As far as the dipstick, take it out and wipe it. Leave it out say 10 minutes. Then insert it and check the oil. All you can do for the leak is get it on ramps and figure out where it is coming from. It is a bad leak looks like. I would check the filter and drain plug for sure. Then look at other things. Sometimes a big leak makes such a mess that you will have to clean it up before you can find it. I would not want to drive that. |
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