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you want to jack the engine up only enough to take the weight off the bolts to be able to get them out. But otherwise, don't be concerned if it does sag a little, there's 3 more mounts elsewhere that will keep it close to position anyway.
It may take two people, one to hold a large pry bar to push it back and another to get the bolt in. Once you get a solid 3-4 threads, then the pry bar can be taken off and zip it in with a wrench or whatever you used to get it out.
Thanks for advice. That along with a couple other mods did the trick
1. The part i ordered from Rock Auto was about a bit wider than original part. I had to file it down some. That made it easier to move around later. #3 step
2. Other issue i had was screwing in the part into the oil pan bracket. I had to make the bolt holes wider.
3. Once i got it attached to the oil pan bracket, i was able to use your pry bar idea to pull the engine toward the rear, then i was able to thread the heavey bolt on the frame. Thanks for advice on that.
i think moral of the lesson, in this case i should have used a factory motor mount. (Torque Rod). It took me a lot of effort and mods to get it to work.
i have had success using RockAuto parts in the past on other cars i own. My lesson for Motor Mounts is to use OEM. Cost me more in time than i saved on price this time.
Just so you know prothane makes an aftermarket upgraded engine motor mount kit that will last longer and keep the engine from jumping around like a four year old in a bounce house full of sugar...
08-27-2018, 02:45 PM
