Ephatch

Time for a family hauler now that my wife and I are hoping for a baby in the next year. All 3 of my Ep3s are gone or going and my DD (a iQ) isn't a "good baby hauler" or spectaularly safe, so it's time to get a "dad mobile". Of course that's what I tell my wife and she likes the look of the RDX and the 5 star front/side crash ratings and is currently ignoring the K-series under hood with a little snail attatchment. Anyways, been looking over the last few weeks and am wondering what people are putting into repairs or maintenance costs (other than oil/filter changes). I've been rather intriqued about the P2263 errors, and am at least glad it won't leave stranded someplace, but I'd rather not change a turbo anytime soon. So how's the running cost and repairs been for everybody?

mrgold35

If you are going to have multiple drivers, I would go for the 08-09 version with memory seats (does side mirrors also). It saves me some time (I'm 6'3", wife 4'11"). The 07 also has a touch stiffer ride and I don't think Bluetooth hands-free was standard for the base version (hands-free Bluetooth standard for base/tech after 08).

I had my 08 tech since 2010 and put about +100K on her (about 130,000 miles now). Most of my high mileage issues have been (other than routine maint, tires, brakes, alignments):
- alternator
- driver side sun visor
- replaced cover on center arm console
- driver side door actuator
- radio controls sometimes don't respond 1-2 times a month (turn radio power off/on fixes it every-time)
- currently sitting for +2 months waiting on Takata airbag recall replacement parts

I haven't had the turbo issues yet or check engine light except when my i-vtec change over solenoid went out at 60k (covered by powertrain warranty). The RDX has never left me stranded and is always fun to drive. I would do the the Hondata reflash for $300+shipping to give you about 26HP/33TQ extra power, faster/longer spool time, and a bump in mpgs (about 1 mpg). I'm over 6 years with the reflash with zero problems with the powertrain or check engine lights.

LINK: https://www.hondata.com/reflash-cate...eflash-rdx2007

pjhalifax

I got an 08 RDX with 88,000 miles two years ago for similar reasons. It’s been a good baby (now toddler) hauler and I can have fun tearing around when the little guy is safe at home. I was a little worried picking up something so close to the 100,000 mile service interval figuring the owner dumped it before something major came up. Who knows…that still might be the case, but so far I’ve only had routine or expected stuff to worry about. I did the 100k service stuff myself and have replaced the starter and the wiper stalk on the steering column. That’s about it. Most areas seem fairly easy to work on.

Coming from smaller cars, I will say the cost that surprised me most was getting new tires. Everything seemed super expensive compared to what I was used to. Fortunately at our pace we won’t be doing that again anytime soon.

Ephatch

Thank you both for the responses.

sounds like a good long life k-series candidate then. I have a few things from the previous cars that will hopefully work with the chassis (perhaps with modification). Im really interested in the reflash and not interested in Flashpro (unless this becomes a secondary car to me), as years of adjusting Kpro .kals and seasonal tunes aren't something I want for this DD. Other than the reflash, I'm thinking to try my Z1 crank pulley, 17x7 Motegi Traklites (1st gen), Eibach or H&R springs (from 05-07 Odyssey), my NSX Airbox (if modifiable), and perhaps some sort of exhaust modification.

Basically quick, easy, and fun bolt-ons that I already have or are inexpensive to purchase. Thank you again for the responses!

mrgold35

Here are the mods I've done to my 08 RDX:

Engine/Drivetrain Modifications:
K/N drop in filter
Hondata Reflash
Hondata Heatshield Gasket
ETS top mount intercooler
Interstate Mega-Tron Plus 35 battery

Suspension Modifications:
Eibach Springs (removed at 100k, sitting on garage floor)
Progress RSB
First Equipment Quality front/rear sway bar Endlinks
KYB Excel-G rear Shocks

Wheels/Tires Modifications:
RonJon Legacy7 Liquid Graphite 18 inch rims with Conti DWS tires and painted black calipers

Interior/Exterior Modifications:
Interior:
Leather shift knob,
black OEM all season floor mats,
rear cargo net,
rear all season black cargo mat,
LED interior light kit,
LED back-up lights and
sport pedals (gas, brake, emergency brake and dead pedal).

Exterior:
Osram Xenarc 66240CBI HID D2S Bulbs,
OEM Front lip,
side molding,
OEM roof rack,
rear diffuser,
sun roof defector,
3M clear bra on front end/side mirrors/headlights,
clear bra strip on hatch back,
35% tint on front windows, and
hidden trailer hitch.

Ephatch

Awesome list of modifications.

How do you like the Progress rear sway bar with the SH-AWD?

Also do you have the original part number for the RDX specific Eibach springs? I know HeelToe seems to be the only company selling them in batches.

Did the 66240CBI bulbs alleviate the low bulb dimness?

Not thinking of getting it anytime soon myself, but how do you like the ETS bar and plate intercooler? How noticable are the IATs or butt dyno gains?


I found a variety in my area anywhere mileage-wise from 40k to 86k, with about $5,000 price difference between those both on base models. Also found a Tech with 53k at around $15k,.....just gotta find one I'd like.

Ephatch

Again, thank you for your responses, they're very much appreciated!

mrgold35

The sh-awd version of the RDX is pretty stable and sure footed in the turns already with the sporty OEM suspension set-up. The Eibach springs would be more for looks to lower ride height around 1 1/4" compared to improving its already superb handling. It would be the same for the progress RSB. I felt a bigger difference when added a Progress RSB on my TSX (A-spec suspension) compared to the RDX with sh-awd. It might make a bigger difference if you had a +10 fwd RDX or you take a lot of tight/hard turns coasting, no sh-awd engagement, or min turbo power. I good set of tires+sh-awd would get you 85%-90% there to out handling most SUV/CUV without AMG/S-line/M on the back bumper. The sh-awd helps level out the vehicle in a tight curve and it feels like the rear is rotating around the curve instead of being dragged along. Unfortunately, the RDX is mostly fwd bias and you have to be breaking the law to get the awd to start working as sh-awd. You can usually go about 15-20 mph over the posted speed limit on a curve with the RDX, even more with a good set of summer tires or ultra high performance all seasons like Conti DWS 06.

I had to learn to drive the RDX a little differently in a curve because of the turbo+sh-awd. I use the paddles to downshift to get the rpms up to lower turbo spool time, (if needed) apply the brakes before the turn if the paddles weren't enough and I am ready to add power when I start to turn, I slowly apply gas before the halfway point to engage the sh-awd, and then power out the curve with sh-awd doing its job. It was over 6 years ago since I installed my Eibach springs. I still have the box at home and I might have to look to see if the part no. is on there.

The 66240CBI are much brighter, whiter, and cast a wider and further beam down the road. I had to take the front bumper off to install the lights. It was just 3 Phillips screws in each wheel well, and around 13 plastic clip to slide the bumper out enough to get to all the bolts on the HID housing. It might take 10-15 mins if you know what you are doing and 20-25 mins if you don't. LINK: http://acura.bernardiparts.com/image...r_BII39553.pdf I just used this PDF instructions 1-4 to change the HIDs (also put down a blanket so I wouldn't scratch the bumper on the driveway).

I'll say if you get one mod for the engine it would be Hondata reflash for $300+shipping at a minimal. That will add 26hp/33tq, faster spool time, longer spool time with more psi, increase redline to 7200 in sport mode, and a slight bumper in mpgs. The ETS intercooler (with or without the heat-shield gasket) is icing on top of the cake. My old OEM intercooler would feel much hotter to the touch after driving compared to ETS. Feels like I have a little more hp/tq with the old butt dyno after ETS. I feel the biggest difference in cool/cold weather (especially all winter long), you can feel a real bump in power as the temps drop with ETS. I never felt a difference in power with just Hondata from summer-winter like I can with ETS+Hondata. I also seem to see a very slight bump in mpgs with the the ETS intercooler also, even with winter fuel blends.

Older pic with Eibach springs and OEM tires, since changed to Conti DWS (love Conit DWS!):

Ephatch

Thank you again for the advice and answering my questions!

Sounds like this is going to be a fun DD overall with great reliablity and usability. RDX owners seem to really love it long term as I've seen quite a few RDXs for sale in the upper regions of 100k with only 1-2 owners (well according to the CarFax at least).

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

They have loads of potential. I love mine and would highly recommend it to others.

Ephatch

Good to know! After we get back in state in a couple of weeks, my wife and I will be going to look at the few that are located locally (hopefully one meets criteria and budget). We're just a stones throw from Tremont up near Bloomsburg, PA. Good to see another local!

pjhalifax

Random question: which hitch did you go with? I've been looking at adding one for bike transport...

mrgold35

I did the CURT 13536 Class III Receiver 2", Amazon, $130: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I went with the 2" version since my MDX has a 2" hitch and I didn't want to figure out adaptors between the 2 vehicles. I took me and my son about 20-30 minutes to install and we didn't need to jack up the RDX. Most of time was spent trying to line up the nuts/bolts for the 2 of the 4 holes for the hitch mount points closest to the front of the RDX (can be a 5-10 min job with a little luck). I didn't do anything about adding any wiring since I'm just doing a bike rack.




One minor issue I had was my bike rack (Softride Access Dura Assist 4 Bike Rack) sat too close to the rear bumper because the hitch was too hidden. I had to get a hitch 7" x 2" Square Extension Receiver, Amazon, $40, and StowAway Hitch Tightener, Amazon, $19, to move the bike rack out enough from the bumper.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RDX with hitch extender:

pjhalifax

Cool, thanks. That looks like just what I need.

Mr Marco

The first generation RDX is about half way through its lifespan and that's when things generally start to get expensive.
Hard to believe it has been almost 10 years since we bought our RDX. We also wanted a family hauler. But the RDX IMHO is more of a hot hatch than SUV. In point, my sister-in-law just traded her trailblazer in on a Suburban as their kid and his gear/friends take up too much space for a small SUV. So while the RDX might work for the first couple of years, you may soon outgrown it. However, you might consider that a good time to upgrade to something bigger and better anyhow.

x2lacrosse

No, these are not 'ultra high performance' tires on the RDX. Maybe if you get them in 19 or 20" with much lower sidewall, but at the 18" stock size, they are not close to high performance tires. I know b/c I actually have these tires right now. I transitioned from the stock Michelins to these last October and these tires have made the car handle worse in dry conditions. Despite the 'sport insert', the sidewall is still very soft and initial turn in produces more body roll than the Michy's ever did. In long sweepers, they're fine once they get a hold, but in any type of rapid transition, they're no good.

To OP, bought a 07 back in 07 and had her for about 65K miles; no major issues to speak of; just a lot of rattles and broken cup holder cover (spring mechanism broke). I had the base model; it had no mem seats nor bluetooth so try to find the tech package if you get this MY. I got a '11 last year and like that it has memory seats, bluetooth and USB port. Got it with 19, xxx miles and now have about 26, no major issues so far but have same old rattles in it. The one in driver's side B-pillar actually drives me crazy. The major fluids are all VERY EASY to change and there's a lot of good DIY's (mostly by Jock737) for you to use. I've used K&N drop-in and Reflash in both and the reflash is def. worth the money. The 07 definitely was stiffer and felt a little sportier. Despite what others may say, Honda did swap the shocks out for the 08 - 12's and did it quietly as you would see the same part # when searching for the '07 parts. As for hauling babies; I don't know about all that but I will say this car is pretty stiff and I wouldn't see it as the best family hauler. To me, this is a good compromise if you need to some cargo hauling abilities but still want something that doesn't feel like a barge on a back road. The turbo lag is pretty bad so I always drive in S mode with manual shifting (via paddles). Oh, and if you plan to use your 17's, you'll have even more sidewall flex to deal with and you should make sure those wheels can handle nearly 4000 lbs.

mrgold35

Compared to OEM Michelins, Bridgestones, and Conti DWS; I like the Conti DWS because they support my driving style year round better than the others on all three vehicles. I would recommend to the OP to determine what tires support their driving style, take into account the 365 weather conditions, check out the reviews from multiple sites, and be willing to make adjustments (suspension, higher PSI, driving style, etc...) for the best set-up. Continentals are not for everyone; but, they were the 99% solution while OEM tires were only about 75% solution for me. It is a very short list of all season tires that can check the same or more boxes as the Conti DWS & Conti DWS 06 365 days a year.

hues10

Just a quick note to say I enjoy Mr. Gold, Wrench, and Mr. Marco's writeups and opinions on the RDX. For my 2011 FWD RDX, I have the Hondata Flash (programmable) and Wrench's CPE air intake. I want to get the J-Pipe and ETC Intercooler, but dinero and ability to put J-pipe on is holding me back. 45K miles on it as of yesterday, and going to do a brake fluid flush, oil change, and tire rotation in the next month. Maybe I should throw in a one time transmission change while I am at it. Other than that, car is a joy to drive, other than the archaic Acura handsfree link who doesn't understand what I say half the time. Keep the comments coming gents.

russianDude

I am at 130k miles, the only major repair outside normal maintainece is air conditioner. It's a known issue, either relays go or coil. Coil is expensive to fix $800

crxman

Hi,
Just wanted to let you know, my 2009 RDX passed 196,000 miles this week. Basically only a few repairs outside of normal maintenance. The A/C compressor clutch has been changed twice, once under warranty because of a recall. The only other repair was the #1 vtec actuator. It has never stranded me. I hope yours does as well.

mrgold35

It good to hear about an RDX close to 200k with minimum problems. I've had the exact same problems with A/C clutch and vtec actuator, both covered by basic/extended warranties. I had a brake booster sensor go out when the temp got -7 degrees on a ski trip ($333 out of pocket expense to repair).

Tomtwtwtw

Closing in on 100k myself on a 2010, so far the only non-maintenance expense has been to replace the positive battery terminal due to excessive corrosion - can't really blame that on Honda either. Most likely the previous owner didn't keep it clean and protected from the elements. At 100k I'm planning to do brake fluid, p/s fluid and coolant changes, and I'm probably almost due for pads at all 4 corners as well (fronts swapped at 50k, rears still original). So ~ $500 as a major maintenance, but I'm basically back to oil changes (and a couple transmission fluid changes) for the next couple years. It is really just as cheap to maintain as a CR-V.

mrgold35

I also did the power steering flush around 100,000 miles and I felt an improvement in steering afterwards. Not sure why that isn't part of the regular M.I.D. schedule for hydraulic power steering vehicles (link it to #4 with spark plugs).

RDX10

This is another thing I miss incredibly with my RDX. Man the maintenance was so cheap and easy to do, even at the dealers. They would set me up with a loaner and do it and I would not ever feel like I was being ripped off like with the Germans.

Tomtwtwtw

Yep...you can definitely get a more luxurious small SUV than the RDX, but the overall value proposition is really hard to beat - especially if you buy used.