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Hi. I have a 2007 RDX Tech Package that has started making a rattling noise (aluminum like very fast clatter). This only happens when decelerating. To verify, when the car is in park the sounds still happens. I would rev up the rpm's to 1500 and let off, 2000 r's and eventually up to 3,000. Just like when driving, the rattling, aluminum or thin metal rapid clanking noise occurs whenever taking my foot off the accelerator. The noise doesn't happen at idle nor acceleration. Lastly, when turning off the car, the noise will happen again. Could this be a turbo/vacuum problem?
Thanks to everyone for the help! I will check the cat shield first and then the motor mount. The project for this weekend is attempting to change the thermostat since the heat doesn't work. I don't have a repair manual but did find a website that has how-to's (albeit limited) detailed diagrams and parts lists for the car and am using this as a guide to try. Plus, it only cost me around $20 for a year's access. I'm not super experienced so am giving myself the whole day to try.
I am just now getting to log back on due to work. That's the sound! Not the harder, louder knocking sound but the more fine and softer aluminum like one!
Turns out my thermostat is good so I have no idea what could be the cause of the heater not working. I was told that if the thermostat was bad, the engine would run either hot or cold.
I'm wondering if I should bite the bullet and take it to a mechanic. With that engine sound, heat not working (but AC does) and that B123 service due regarding the transmission, I'm wondering if this is beyond my abilities.
Any advice on whether or not I should try to tackle these issues on my own first?
My rattle was coming from the Turbo Variable Flow control valve arm. It may be worth a look, the video shows how much play there was on mine. https://youtu.be/je2ogVIy92k.
Did the play in the arm cause a noise on yours? Did you have to tighten it to correct the play? Thanks for posting - video had great resolution!
Thermostat change should be DIY at home, the shop manual will have all the steps
I don't mess changing auto Transmission fluid change myself, easier and cleaner to pay for that one.
I'm afraid the thermostat isn't the problem now. An amateur but knowledgeable mechanic told me it couldn't be the thermostat since my engin running temp was normal and not hot or cold. I've been trying to view the service manual to find troubleshooting tips.
Yup the play in the arm caused the noise on my car. That softer aluminum sound from the video you hear when the engine RPMs start to fall back to idle.
The problem I uncovered was the metal wears out on the bottom of the Actuator rod and makes the bore larger. These are a few pictures from another members thread that show some of the wear. The problem is none of the parts are available at Acura. I tied some metal wire around it to correct the play
When I have more time I am going to take the Actuator arm off and have a new piece machined at a local shop. This is a quick video showing the wire I tied around it.
I started to get an intermittent check engine light. It turned out the code was a Turbo charger system malfunction. I believe the play in the arm allowed the Variable Flow valve to open slightly early and effect the boost from the Turbo. There are too many solenoids to control these modern Turbo engines.
When I have more time I am going to take the Actuator arm off and have a new piece machined at a local shop. This is a quick video showing the wire I tied around it.
I started to get an intermittent check engine light. It turned out the code was a Turbo charger system malfunction. I believe the play in the arm allowed the Variable Flow valve to open slightly early and effect the boost from the Turbo. There are too many solenoids to control these modern Turbo engines.
Wow! Those are great pics and videos! I'm afraid I may have the same problem. I drove it to a mechanic today and am turning it in the shop Monday morning. I am going to be sure and report back as to the "no heat" problem from the car hvac as well as the engine noise. The mechanic took a quick look and said my thermostat was not the problem and my lines were hot but suspected something could be wrong electronically or in the dash.
When I have more time I am going to take the Actuator arm off and have a new piece machined at a local shop.
Thanks for posting the great videos!
If you have a new piece made, you may consider making some extras to sell to other members, or see if the shop can keep the specs on file for people to order one.
I changed the actuator bolt. No change. I still get rattle but only after letting off gas. I am wondering if maybe it is my timing chain tensioner? Or timing chain?
So I changed the actuator nut on the waste gate it was out of round, but sound is still there. Are there any adjustments that need to be made to actuator nut connected to waste gate.
Work that was done so far front exhaust donut, actuator nut, & knock sensor. I’m starting to think it’s the Cat that is bad and throwing out code to go into limp mode.
Im at wits end, taking it to Acura Fri morning to have it checked out.
So I changed the actuator nut on the waste gate it was out of round, but sound is still there. Are there any adjustments that need to be made to actuator nut connected to waste gate.
Work that was done so far front exhaust donut, actuator nut, & knock sensor. I’m starting to think it’s the Cat that is bad and throwing out code to go into limp mode.
Im at wits end, taking it to Acura Fri morning to have it checked out.
please update after going to Acura , I’ve made an appt for next week also , very frustrating
This is the same exact noise our 2010 RDX makes on deceleration. I changed the actuator arm but that was when i got the check engine code for the turbo system which fixed the boost issue. The noise on deceleration is what has been bothering me. The car has 183k miles now as well. Does anyone know how often the actual turbo needs to be replaced?
Please update if anyone finds out what that rattling is. Sounds like turbo to me. I'm no turbo expert by any means, but it sounds like the fins on the inside are rubbing.
So I finally got a chance to take my truck to Acura to finally get it diagnosed... 1st thing after the diagnosis I was told I need a new turbo and sensor for $9898.35 and a new engine wire harness to the tune of $1200, that didn’t include the wear n tear they found, suspension all way around, in which I knew about for a grand total of $16686.35, I’m still In disbelief they had the balls to even show me that, The full repair is worth more then the truck🤦🏾♂️. So long story short I’m looking for a speed shop/turbo specialist in south west NJ to do the work. I’m going to include a video of what my truck still sounds like after turbo variable flow actuator eye nut bolt was changed...
Did they say why you need a new harness? That's odd unless there are other symptoms/codes in play here besides P2263. Suspension can wait - maybe it's worn, but it will only continue to wear at its current pace. Unless you're putting a ton of miles on it, it's one of those things that can pretty much always wait 6 months. Plus, if you can get a hold of some jack stands and hand tools, you can do it all yourself in an afternoon and save tons of money.
And even at dealer cost, 10k for a turbo replacement is nuts unless you went way up north and got a quote in Canada. I'd say 2nd opinion at a reputable local shop that specializes in Honda / Japanese models and let them tell you what's really needed here.
11-06-2016, 09:06 PM
