P1739 Code Need Help diagnosing 3.0 CL Auto
#1
New to the forum and this is my first post.
Bought a 1999 CL 3.0 Auto last year and have made numerous repairs. Bought with 92k miles and now has 107k miles. 2nd owner. Car has a complete tune up and will be cleaning the EGR passages shortly.
Latest code is P1739.
I believe this is the 3rd Clutch Pressure Switch for the tranny. Here are my questions (after looking through the forum for nearly 2 hours)...
Does someone have a picture of where this switch is located?
Does someone have a picture of the switch by itself?
I'm having a hard time sourcing this part online as it seems there a multiple different switches and pressures associated with each switch. Does someone have a recommended part number?
Am I correct assuming this is the only part associated with the code? Can anything else throw this code (like the shift solenoids)?
I'm fairly mechanically inclined and am confident I can replace the part assuming it isn't located internally in the transmission.
Any help you guys and/or gals can lend would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!!
Marc
Also, I noticed the switched listed as "Oil Switch"...is this correct?
Here's a link to a switch I found in ebay? Am I on the right track here?
Genuine Acura MDX CL TL Oil Pressure Switch New 28600 P7Z 003 | eBay
One more note...trans code is M7ZA
Bought a 1999 CL 3.0 Auto last year and have made numerous repairs. Bought with 92k miles and now has 107k miles. 2nd owner. Car has a complete tune up and will be cleaning the EGR passages shortly.
Latest code is P1739.
I believe this is the 3rd Clutch Pressure Switch for the tranny. Here are my questions (after looking through the forum for nearly 2 hours)...
Does someone have a picture of where this switch is located?
Does someone have a picture of the switch by itself?
I'm having a hard time sourcing this part online as it seems there a multiple different switches and pressures associated with each switch. Does someone have a recommended part number?
Am I correct assuming this is the only part associated with the code? Can anything else throw this code (like the shift solenoids)?
I'm fairly mechanically inclined and am confident I can replace the part assuming it isn't located internally in the transmission.
Any help you guys and/or gals can lend would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!!
Marc
Also, I noticed the switched listed as "Oil Switch"...is this correct?
Here's a link to a switch I found in ebay? Am I on the right track here?
Genuine Acura MDX CL TL Oil Pressure Switch New 28600 P7Z 003 | eBay
One more note...trans code is M7ZA
#2
Drifting
You got it. That's the right one/PN in your link to ebay and the code P1739 is for the 3rd gear clutch pressure switch.
What is the trans doing or not doing?
#11 in the diagram for 2nd and 3rd CP Switch (14 Ft Lbs torque spec) and also get a new washers too. They both use the same one and its color coded Black. I would change them both while your hands are dirty and already in there.
You should also do a DW1 ATF dump n fill if fluid is dirty or more than 45k miles between ATF exchanges.
What is the trans doing or not doing?
#11 in the diagram for 2nd and 3rd CP Switch (14 Ft Lbs torque spec) and also get a new washers too. They both use the same one and its color coded Black. I would change them both while your hands are dirty and already in there.
You should also do a DW1 ATF dump n fill if fluid is dirty or more than 45k miles between ATF exchanges.
Last edited by 01acls; 10-17-2015 at 09:30 PM.
#3
Thank you 01acls!! I appreciate the advise to source new washers and to replace both sensors while I'm in there. I will do just that.
As far as your question on what the trans is doing or not doing...I have been slowly replacing worn parts on the car for about a year now. Recently, I did a scan and that's where this 'new' code popped up.
The tranny seems to be shifting fine, however, I won't know for sure until I replace all the engine/tranny mounts. All of the mounts should arrive by the end of the week. It shifts a little hard going into reverse sometimes. I'm attributing that to the worn mounts at this point since I can feel the engine/tranny rock a little when switching gears.
Ultimately, I want to eliminate the source of the code, so I hope the replacing the sensors resolves that.
In regards to the tranny fluid swap...
Although I am not opposed to using the DW1, after some research it sounds as though Honda/Acura guys are having great luck with Valvoline Maxlife ATF. Apparently it doesn't shear like many other fluids, including the DW1. ITs said that its a great overall improvement over the Z1 fluid.
I'm ultimately looking for the best overall fluid. I don't mind paying extra as long as it performs well. I paid quite a bit for the Suby HP fluid for my wife's Forester.
Thoughts on the MAXLIFE? Plans are to swap out 3 quarts each week for the next 3 weeks.
As far as your question on what the trans is doing or not doing...I have been slowly replacing worn parts on the car for about a year now. Recently, I did a scan and that's where this 'new' code popped up.
The tranny seems to be shifting fine, however, I won't know for sure until I replace all the engine/tranny mounts. All of the mounts should arrive by the end of the week. It shifts a little hard going into reverse sometimes. I'm attributing that to the worn mounts at this point since I can feel the engine/tranny rock a little when switching gears.
Ultimately, I want to eliminate the source of the code, so I hope the replacing the sensors resolves that.
In regards to the tranny fluid swap...
Although I am not opposed to using the DW1, after some research it sounds as though Honda/Acura guys are having great luck with Valvoline Maxlife ATF. Apparently it doesn't shear like many other fluids, including the DW1. ITs said that its a great overall improvement over the Z1 fluid.
I'm ultimately looking for the best overall fluid. I don't mind paying extra as long as it performs well. I paid quite a bit for the Suby HP fluid for my wife's Forester.
Thoughts on the MAXLIFE? Plans are to swap out 3 quarts each week for the next 3 weeks.
#4
Drifting
For the Reverse
1. Replace Shift Solenoid C (#25).
2. Replace Pressure Solenoid A/B (#9) & the 3 O-rings. Inspect the 3 pipes and the screens located at the bottom of the pipes.
3. Inspect the shift cable at both end for excessive play.
ATF
I would go with DW1 its a sure thing but I've read good stuff about the other brands and wouldn't be hesitant to give those a try.
1. Replace Shift Solenoid C (#25).
2. Replace Pressure Solenoid A/B (#9) & the 3 O-rings. Inspect the 3 pipes and the screens located at the bottom of the pipes.
3. Inspect the shift cable at both end for excessive play.
ATF
I would go with DW1 its a sure thing but I've read good stuff about the other brands and wouldn't be hesitant to give those a try.
Last edited by 01acls; 10-22-2015 at 03:03 PM.
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