ghost_masterCL

oks, o I was out driving in the mountains today and at a stoplight right before I got onto a highway on my way back home they check engine light came on and and the D4 light started flashing.

I haven't really noticed any slipping recently so I didn't think the tranny would just flat out die on me like that, especially at only 55k miles.

so I made it back home from the mountains, but from what I know of the car it was only using 2nd and 4th gears. I got the codes pulled and here's what I got:

now when I installed my headers a couple months back I noticed that the O2 sensor wire was VERY lightly touching the axle. I had meant to check it out later, but hadn't gotten around to it. I'm gonna go jack up the car and see if the wire is frayed or anything, but other than that why would the O2 sensor go bad?

now about the shift solenoid... would that have any relation to the O2 sensor going bad, or is my tranny just fucked?

thanks in advance guys.

ghost_masterCL

well, it seems that the wire WAS touching the axle. that part of the axle is very "clean" from the rubber touching it, but I coulnd't see whether the rubber was destroyed down to the wire or not though as I had forgotten to get my jack stands and didn't want to get under the car too far without them.

from what I could tell though it is still only lightly resting on the axle, not touching it much. gonna check it out later though.

ghost_masterCL

somebody help me please?!?!?! for the love of god?!?!?!

thirdrail-1

Bro, I have seen O2 sensors go bad for all kinds of shit. That is most likely your problem. I never had a problem with the CLs, after I put my headers on.... But the Electrical circuit is quite possibly the issue. Possibly tied into your O2 sensor. I would go tell the Ack Dealer your issue, and I am sure those noobos have seen this issue before.. I mean look at how many Accs they mess with a day... I know I am not much help, but I KNOW how it is when your car aint actin right... I know exactly who to pester. 3 months ago, my engine ran like a champ... a dent in the oil pan came along and silently starved my motor...now I'm sitting on my H22 CL...Shit happens man...be leary of any little thing, until YOU PROVE it to be nothing.. By the way.. I reccomend everyone go out to their Acks (especially if they are lowered) and check for any little dents in your oil pan...if there are REPLACE ASAP!
Cya

wilp99

check your vcs. it will cause all kinds of false codes. or u could just have a bad shift solonoid.

ghost_masterCL

what the hell is the vcs? and why would it suddenly pop out of nowhere when I start braking at a stoplight?

if it was a false code, why would it not use first or third gear, the tranny was jerky as hell when it shifted. probably a bad shift solenoid then? if so... how much do you think to replace?

thirdrail-1

Sounds like your ECU went into "Limp mode". Never seen that happen, but it sounds like what happen to you, because you were stuck in second.

wilp99

vcs=vehicle speed sensor. it really sounds like your shift solonoid went out. have u tried to reset the computer. (disconnecting battery)

there is a way to ohm out ur solonoids. i have all the specs in my service manual.. ill scan them tomorrow sometime and post them 4-u.

ghost_masterCL

yeah, the first thing I did when I pulled over was unplug the battery for a few seconds then plug it back in. didn't help though.

I'll probably take it to a shop for them to check it out though, but if I need to replace the solenoid I'll probably have to have the whole tranny taken apart then huh? same price as a rebuild, or might it be cheaper than that?

but both 2nd gear and 4th gear worked, BUT obviously since they aren't meant to be shifted directly between the shifts were hella jerk y and I had to do all the shifting manually.

am I just better off taking it to a shop for diagnosis of the problem than checking it out myself? If the shift solenoid is really the problem is teh whole tranny screwed or could I get away with just replacing that?

wilp99

it takes at least 15 min of the battery to be disconnected before it will reset.

ghost_masterCL

ok well I'l try that tommorow to see if that helps at all since it's snowing like a mofo here and I don't wanna leave the hood unlatched while I'm not there.

ghost_masterCL

ok, nm just tried it for being unplugged for like 30-40 minutes. did't even have to start the car to get codes. so that's not it.

ghost_masterCL

hey, I'm sure you know how my tranny just threw the "bad soenoid code", so I've been calling quite a few places regarding tranny rebuilds, and I spoke to IPT about their rebuild. apparently the "rebuild kit" they supply is just like a typical rebuild kit, but if you were to buy a full tranhy build from them for like $3500 it would involve simply transmisison "tuning" which is what they say can hold up to 500 hp, or whatever, so basically if you buy the rebuild kit from them it will be exactly like buying it from anywhere else.

if I do need a new tranny I think I'm gonna go the dr. evil route on this one, as all of their parts are made of stronger materials, AND the tranny is tuned, sure it costs more, but I think it'll be worth it in the long run.


just an FYI.

wilp99

its all the same company they get thier clutch packs from. alto red eagle performance clutch packs. they meant they all use the same clutch packs. u need alot more than 500 hp to rip the gears out of an automatic. dr evil does put in new harder gears and solonoids, however... the clutch packs and torque converter is where all the performance is felt. i just want to have my tranny to where i dont have to worry bout tearing it up if i get alittle froggy with the gas pedal. and since the clutch packs are our main problem.. im gettin the performance ones. they also come with the hardened friction plates.

ghost_masterCL

ahh, so it's the clutch packs that go bad? well shit, why not just get those straight from "alto red eagle" or whatever? I guess if one were to rebuild they might as well do the whole thing, and do the LSD while at it.

anyways it turns out that the tranny is fine but the tranny isn't getting enough power somehow so they are having to trace the problem back somewhere between the ECU and the tranny.

wilp99

make sure the ground is good that connects to the bottom of the water neck from the inlet hose.

i called alto and they said they are just the manufacturer and do not sell to the public. i have to be a seller or carrier to receive them. so...maybee after i open up my shop in years to come i could hook up some cl ers w/ some quality less expensive 2nd alternative.

vietxplicitz

hmmm ghost.... i am going thru the same problem you are.. before all i can drive in is 2... if i put mine in d3 or d4 the car would jerkkk soo hard and still won't shift... this problem has gone and came like 3 times already... my car can shift normal now..but it still jerks.. but at least it's goin into gear.. i still hasn't got the time to have it checked out yet.. but the engine light is still on.. i dunno if it is the same problem ur having.. but i think it's the tranny...

athlonxp

Sup Wilp99,

PM'ed you but your box is full. Anyhow, I wanted to know which book is it that you used to rebuild your trans, I'm gonna have to rebuild mine again and am planning on doing it myself. BTW, anything I have to look out for? Also, what was the downtime on your CL?

Thanks bro,
James

ghost_masterCL

here's the manual you'll need. if you have a 3.0, just get the supplement for the 3.0, if you have a 2.2/2.3 just get that one. I'm personally gonna get the electrical one too.
http://www.helminc.com/helm/search_s...2J7M30U01K2MS3

and here's his thread about his rebuild: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140184

wilp99

the main thing i can tell u is have patience. once u pull the end cap off theres three big ass nuts. 2 are reverse threaded and they are all hard as hell to get off. once u get those off make sure you know what position the shift shaft is in. (ull know what im talkin about) the two halves will not come apart withouth the shift shaft in a certain position. alittle insight... i broke my shift detent arm trying to take it off the wrong way. a new one was only 35$ but it took and entire week to come in, then it was the wrong one and i had to pay an ass load to have a new one overnighted. i still have the other one. its for a 99 transmission, and i guess my 99 has a 98 tranny in it..car was made in mid 98.. and comes out thats bout the only difference between the two...anyways, the rest is all measuring with a micrometer, and depth guages. also make sure u soak the new clutch packs in tranny fluid for 1 hr before u put them into the car. the manual says u can use dextron 3 to put the tranny pieces togather. so i bought a oil pan from autozone for 1.50 and filled it bout 1/4 the way up with autozone brand tranny fluid, and used that. over all work w/o waiting for parts to come in 3 days. its alot easier than it sounds. when i do my level 10 ill do a whole wriht up on it with plenty of pics and maybee some vids. so we can save some lute on this common problem.

ghost_masterCL

damn well I just ordered my books, so I'll be reading through the tranny section quite a bit before I even think about taking it apart or anything. that sounds pretty tough, and I would have to take time off work to get this done if it takes several days. I'm still gonna wait till you do yours so I can mooch off of you and see if your results are worth it, lol.

ghost_masterCL

ok, so just so this thread has closure, I wanted to say that here's whats' really happened.

the reason the O2 codes were thrown was because the wire going to the O2 sensor in the downpipe had somehow come in contact with the headers and had melted through and shorted out. this had shorted out the circuit to the other O2 sensor also since they are conected to the same circuit.

Then it turns out that the shift solenoid B REALLY WAS bad, so it had to be replaced. and since it's a pair with another solenoid C they were both replaced. car now runs super great. almost feels like the shifts are firmer than before.

thanks for all your help guys.

vietxplicitz

how much did it cost you to get ur car fix?

ghost_masterCL

$450 for labor and parts. the two solenoids they replaced cost $118 together. the labor was what killed it. so if you were to go in and just tell them to replace the solenoids I'd guess about $150 or so, maybe $200.

Stew97CL3.0

Are the solenoids internal to the transmission? I just got p0758 and p0700 after my car bucked and studdered to a stop and all teh dash light flickered on and off.

758 seems to indicate an electrical flaw with the solenoid. i'm wondering if i can replace it myself.

ghost_masterCL

I am pretty sure they are external. I think they are the goldish cylinders on the side of the trans.

Stew97CL3.0

front or rear side?

AznX TL

my car does this also, except im throwing a p0141