Big problem! Please help!!!
#1
Big problem! Please help!!!
About one week ago and immediately after having both CV-axles and front brake rotors and pads replaced, I started hearing a grinding/clicking sound under the hood. It gradually became louder and now emits a burning smell and white smoke. After looking under the hood, I noticed the sound was coming from the area of the alternator and went to Autozone for testing. Of course, they told me the alternator checked out and we gave it a closer look. We found that the belt running on the passenger side of the engine was what was burning and giving off the white smoke. In fact, we could see the remains of the burned belt on what the guy from Autozone described as the belt tensioner.
So, my question to you is what is wrong? What needs to be fixed and can I do it myself?
Thanks!!!
So, my question to you is what is wrong? What needs to be fixed and can I do it myself?
Thanks!!!
#5
New symptom: Upon cranking the car tonight it almost didn't start, the white smoke billowed, the engine shuttered, and a new high pitched squeeling started, and the battery light came on.
Crap...
Crap...
#6
N00berator
i still think its ur power steering pump....it could also be ur alternator belt (one of ur serpentine belts) good luck
#7
More new symptoms: the car started normally this morning but the battery light was still on. After taking the girls to daycare, I checked under the hood to find that the belt that was melting snapped. I'm posting pics below of the belt that snapped and the part on which the burned belt residue remains. What does this belt do? What needs to be replaced? Can I do it myself? If so, how?
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#8
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That's your alternator belt
#9
cool breeze
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Aurora, CO
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your alternator belt is gone, bro
battery light is on cause you alternator isn't running.
(i'm not fimilar with 3.0's)the rusty peice looks like a tensioner, see if it spins by hand, no, replace it
battery light is on cause you alternator isn't running.
(i'm not fimilar with 3.0's)the rusty peice looks like a tensioner, see if it spins by hand, no, replace it
#11
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u posted it 3-4 times, I think we got it. I was confirming what you said when he posted the picture. Southernman, if you can still drive your car, drive it to the nearest mechanic, if not get it towed, your car won't go far with the alternator not recharging your battery
#12
Thanks for all your replies! So, my next question is what caused the belt to break? Or, what caused the belt to melt onto the tensioner? Also, what needs to be replaced? The belt only, or the belt and tensioner? Autozone only has “belts” and “belt tensioner” and “timing belt” and “timing belt tensioner.” There is no alternator belt. Finally, is this something I can do myself? If so, is there a guide somewhere? If not, how much should I expect to pay for these repairs?
#13
N00berator
Thanks for all your replies! So, my next question is what caused the belt to break? Or, what caused the belt to melt onto the tensioner? Also, what needs to be replaced? The belt only, or the belt and tensioner? Autozone only has “belts” and “belt tensioner” and “timing belt” and “timing belt tensioner.” There is no alternator belt. Finally, is this something I can do myself? If so, is there a guide somewhere? If not, how much should I expect to pay for these repairs?
what do u mean "there is no alternator belt" ur serpentine belt consist of AC compresser, water pump pulley, driving belt, alternator belt...so on and so fourth. by judging by ur pix, ur atl. belt is done with... and as far as why does it melt is because maybe bad a/c compressor bearing or idler pulley.
jus get a bearing and pulley....check the DIY thread
#15
N00berator
ok if u look down at the belt area, you will see a pully toward the front of the car that looks like it's attached to an arm. That is the tensioner pully. The tensioner is spring loaded. If you look at the arm of the tensioner there should be a square hole in it to insert a socket wrench or a breaker bar/pull handle to use as a lever to remove the tension from the belt. If there is no hole, then use a wrench on the bolt head of the pully itself as your lever. As you hold the tensioner out of the way, unloop the old belt. Pay attention to the routing, so you can reinstall the new one correctly. after tht you route the new one in and again use your lever to move the tensioner so you can get the belt over the last pully. put it over the alternator last. Use some kinda light to make sure the belt is fully on all 5 grooves of every single pulley before you start yo car
#17
N00berator
#20
One custom CL
Your tentioner bearing could be frozen. Aterall it is a moving part. The grease might have dried and the bearings wear down. That would cause the tentioner to no longer rotate. If thats the case the belt it now rubbing on the tentioner. After a while it will burn as its under constant friction and finaly snap. I would try to rotate the tentioner. It should spin freely. Its the rusted looking thing in the pic. As far as how easy can it be to replace? It can and it can't. The question is are you handy and do you have the time to do this?
#21
N00berator
#23
N00berator
yes it is true because they both r suppose to be squared with ur pulleys. also they r mounted on one plate. wait let me go check under my hood..there is something else but cant remember
#24
southernman...you are making a mountain out of a mole..............as the guys said....buy the belt and buy the tensioner pully and install these.....and all should be fine......even if after installing these the problem presists then you have to take to the mechanic cause after that no one on this forum will be able to help you without actually physically looking at the car......as then this might need detailed dignosis to what is causing this.....but if you do the above two and the problem if fixed then you got nothing to loose......and going by my experience these guys know their shit and speak out of experience...so just do the above and you will be fine.....if it dosent work then atleast you will have a new belt and a new tensioner pully anyways you tensioner pully looks shot....so youv got nothing to loose.
#25
2600lb CL
iTrader: (2)
If the clutch in the air compressor fried, then yes, you'll need a new air compressor. If it's fried/burnt/gone/whatever then that will seize the compressor not allowing the other pulley to spin freely. That would explain the burnt belt.
If the bearing in your tensioner is shot, then that would also be a reason for your belt to burn and snap.
One of the two is correct.
The only way to find out is to have someone look at both.
If the bearing in your tensioner is shot, then that would also be a reason for your belt to burn and snap.
One of the two is correct.
The only way to find out is to have someone look at both.
#26
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#28
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"hold on let me post that on the internet, I'll get back to you in 1-2 hours after I get some responses" Just messin man, seems like you're on the right track
#29
Okay, so I just got the call from a "reliable mechanic" in my area (Gilmore Auto Repair in Ridgeland, MS). He tells me: "pulley on A/C compressor gone and caused belt to snap. Needs new A/C compressor ($577.95 and new of course), belt, A/C tensioner, and receiver dryer (sp) for...$1,160.07 + tax."
What do you guys think?
What do you guys think?
#32
N00berator
#34
2600lb CL
iTrader: (2)
The clutch on the A/C compressor is what engages and disengages to turn on and off your A/C. When it's disengaged, it allows your pulley to spin freely. Engaged, it uses your pulley to run the compressor. Without that clutch, you have no a/c nor a free spinning pulley.
Go to this place for a good deal on parts. http://www.massimopower.com/ Ask for Mauricio. I'll get you their number once I get home tonight. But I won't be home till around midnight. I'm sure the number is on their site somewhere. Tell them Chris from Acurazine sent you.
Go to this place for a good deal on parts. http://www.massimopower.com/ Ask for Mauricio. I'll get you their number once I get home tonight. But I won't be home till around midnight. I'm sure the number is on their site somewhere. Tell them Chris from Acurazine sent you.
#35
One custom CL
car-part.com
try that. no you do not need a new compressor. at least i would never go and buy a new one for $500. On top of that you can prob change it yourself. $1000.00 is a lot of money especially for something like that. If it were you heads then yes but your damn accesory belt. Shit for that money I wouldn't even use my compressor therefore no ac. Its your pocket man. I would do it myself.
try that. no you do not need a new compressor. at least i would never go and buy a new one for $500. On top of that you can prob change it yourself. $1000.00 is a lot of money especially for something like that. If it were you heads then yes but your damn accesory belt. Shit for that money I wouldn't even use my compressor therefore no ac. Its your pocket man. I would do it myself.
#36
Shit for that money I wouldn't even use my compressor therefore no ac. Its your pocket man. I would do it myself.
#39
N00berator
otherwise if u go with wha da mechanic says ur next post is gona be...:rippedoff
#40
thats why i said southernman.....do not turst your turst worthy mechanic....I TRUST NO FUCKING MECHANNIC................get the tensioner pully and the new belt and DIY it, it is very easy and even if that does not work then your mechanic is right...if it works then you know how much trust worthy is yoru mechanic...in this economy every one if out there to rip you off......... get you ass moving and replace the tensioner pully and belt it is very easy....if you wount try it you will never know how it is done......sorry tobe so harsh my man...btu the best way to learn is to try......goodluck