masterim

My car died on me the other day had to get jump started twice and ended up getting a new battery with 1000CA 800CCA. Car ran for roughly a day than battery needed to be charged again. Decided to replace factory Delphi alternator.

Today, I replaced with a OEM alternator and still cannot get battery to charge. However, both alternators were bench tested and showed and passed. Although the orginal alternator's bearing were shot.

Thinking it may be a wiring problem.

If you anyone has any suggestions or ideas please help.

legendaryCL98

sounds like a wire is leaking.. do u get shocked alot when u touch your car? (not like a killer shock.. but a static shock?)

masterim

Never noticed a shock before.

liloj

yea....a shock might suck if your pumping gas...that thing about the vapors igniting...so hopefully thats not the case...

baka_t

Yah i seen that...on mythbusters.

masterim

Thanks tip about static, but I don't think that is the issue. Again, if anyone has any other thoughts please let me know.

legendaryCL98

naw .. its just that if u get shocked by static all the time.. it means that your car is leaking electricity.. most likely a wire issue that i mentioned above. on my dads lincoln towncar, there was a wire that was eaten away and had to be replaced. afterwards his alternator was charging the car fine. it costed like 200 to replace the wire though..

Always Dirty

Has the battery been tested at all? If you were running it for a while with a barely functioning alternator it could be pretty beat up and not holding a charge now.

proaudio22

That's the silliest thing I've ever heard. Your car can build up static all the time, it has nothing to do with "leaking electricity". Esp considering 12v isn't going to shock anyone unless something is seriously wrong.

The problem here is more than likely just like leg-cl98 said tho, a shorted wire. If you have an ammeter, you can see what kind of draw there is when the car is off. It should be very, very low. No way it's even 1/2 an amp. You really should take it to a shop if you are in new territory here. There are so many possiblities, we can only speculate here.

baka_t

Check the voltage regulator if its not working the battery will not charge.

proaudio22

Shouldn't a new alternator have a new voltage regulator as well?

djz

Step 1: go to autozone
Step 2: tell the dipshit behind the counter to test your battery & alternator by putting a machine on it.
Step 3: replace what fails.

If you replaced everything that failed and it still dosent work, beat up the dipshit behind the counter

baka_t

Yah but it mite have been fried by a short thats why the new one isn't charging.

liloj

if the alternator and battery are good..then its something in between..like everyone says..its most likely a wire.....

masterim

Thanks for all the feedback. I am going in today to get a new solenoid put in since my tranny is not shifting right into OD, but will see if they can check the wiring. My friend told me that the voltage regulator is on the alternator.

smoky14

When everything else fails get smart and TROUBLE SHOOT IT

tightac1

IT IS PROBABLY SOMETHING SO SIMPLY THAT IS GETTING SIMPLY OVER LOOKED. IT IS PROBABLY SOMETHING THAT HAS A CONSTANT 12V AND IS PROBABLY LEFT ON OR LIKE THE OTHERS SAID A WIRE IS SHORTING OUT

masterim

After I replaced the the alternator for a second time with a factory one the batter still would not charge. So I decided to take another look at the fuses under the steering col. I didn't check them all last time since most of them were like heated seat fuses. This time though found out that my ECU fuse was bad. I replaced it and my d4 light immediately stopped flashing and after testing my battery it was now receiving a charge from the alternator.

Here were all the symptoms caused from the ECU fuse shorting out.

1. D4 light blinking steadily on cluster.
2. Auto Trans having to be manually shifted on col.
3. Battery going dead not receiving charge from alternator.
4. Alternator appearing to be bad by not charging the battery.

So after having the transmission fluid flushed three times, purchasing a new battery, a new alternator, and having put in $750. It all came down to a fuse! Oh well, I guess the money was spent well on preventative maintenance and the bearings in the alternator were going bad. Should have gone with my initial instinct and check all the fuses instead of assuming the guy at the shop knew exactly what he was talking about.

Dustin Damron

Dont know if anyone is on this thread anymore but my 97 acura cl 2.2 had the no charge issue. Turned out to be a bad connection on/in the fuse box. 2 wires come into the front right of the fuse box. It is the wire on far right that was melted from the bottom of fuse box. Has a 10mm bolt holding it on. You can replace the fuse box or find you a way to get a solid connection where it bolts to in the fuse box