gincali

Got to hand it to ACURA and the first owners of this blue baby! I know it ain't just luck. . .or maybe it is.

But so far history reports that my CL has had no major probs (knock on wood) except for the common few; Overheating (recent), and Minor hood fading.

Thats pretty much it. I am fairly new to this community but not to ACURAs (I had or still have an Integra). I did some searching (that wonderful button up top) and tried to get opinions on different things. One thing I need help or opinions on is regarding OIL.

On my teg I used pretty much any brand oil (not synth) of 10 w 40. Did them changes at every 3k. . .and that baby runs fine still at 245K !!

Now, on my cl, with such high mileage @ 145K I definitely am not going synth. BUT the manual and others say to use 5w30 or even 10w30 since I am in CALI and it doesn't get cold out here. But my question is WOULD IT BE OK TO USE 10W40 oil since the high mileage and since the thicker oil would be better? Also since my car has overheating issues now, i sure could use the oil that is gonna get less thinner at higher temps!
But is it alright for our cars?

Also is my rational ok to use that Valvoline Max Life 10w40? Or can I use any oil pretty much or does it really need to have the ENERGY CONSERVING II label on it?? For those that are overly-technical does the label API SL refer the oil automatically to be ENERGY CONSERVING therefore fuel conserving, or not?

Anyway, any input is welcomed.

Damn I luv this forum!

Motohip

Like I said in the other thread...use 5w30. I don't see why you would put 10w40 in a 4 cyl. engine. Especially a 1.8L. 10w30 would be okay if it gets pretty hot where you live, but I think 10w40 is a little much.

cl-baller201

1.8
dont we have 2.2ltr.

Motohip

His integra comes with a 1.8

gincali

I appreciate that moto!
I guess 5 w 30 is fine.

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

Don't go with thicker oil. That seems to be a misperception about oil, the thicker the better....well it's not. Think of it this way, the thicker the oil, the more the oil pump is going to have to work in pumping that into the engine. Also, the thicker the oil, the worse the power/fuel economy, and it wears your engine faster. If your worried about protecting the engine at high temps, with the amount of miles you have, then stiock with 10w-30.

The "w" stands for winter (NOT WEIGHT)...the lower the number, the better protection the engine will have in cold conditions, or start up.

The second number is used to tell you how much protection your engine has in high temps. Now you would think the higher the better, but keep in mind, more is not always better. In this case, the thicker to a point, the worse. Just to give you an example, nascars run on 5w-15. They are constantly at high rpm's for a long period of time. Now if that isn't extreme conditions, then I dont know what is. For generally, for our cars there is no need to go higher than 30 for the second number. Now both numbers do symbolize the viscosity of the oil (also known as weight, correct me if i'm wrong), which is simply the oil's ability to flow (thickness).

So like I said, I'd say a 10w-30 would do you good. And if you wanna know somethiing else about oil, here's a trick question. What oil do you believe is the best???

Believe or not, chevron is just as good as your top oil competitors like mobil1 and castrol. If you look at the back of your oil quarts, you will see two letters next to API in a little circle where it tells you the SAE and EC. Well, as of today, the highest API designation an oil can have (which represents the best oil), is SL. Now, castrol, chevron, and mobil and the same API designation. In order for an oil to have this designation, they must ALL past the SAME tests. So therefore, if the oil is ranked the same as your leading brands, then it is just as good. Just a lil tip if you want to save some money. Now, what makes those leading brands more expensive, are the additives that they add to the oil, kinda like how some gas companies put additives in their gas to make it better (ex: chevron with techron...used to clean your valves).....

Rrr...so much to say, but I know how everyone doesn't like to reead so much, so I'll stop here. But yea, hope that helped, and sorry I havent been able to get back on you about the car. But I do have a question, does your check engine light come on, or has it because of the over heating problem? If so, then odds are I think I know what else it could be.

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

The EC label means this:

If it has an EC I on it, you get 1.8 percent better fuel economy.
If it has an EC II on it, you get a 2.7 percent better fuel economy.

Do you have to have it, no, but would you like it? Well, living in cali with these gas prices, I would say it would be a good thing to have.

gincali

Hey Cocoa,

I just read ur ENTIRE response about oil. I'm just kidding. It wasn't that long actually, seeing that I have been posting long-azzed posts. Anyway, I hear yeah, i'm going to go ahead and stock up with 10w-30 oil. I had a case of chevrons at home, with the SL designation BUT no EC labels at all. So i could use that fuel economy boost so i'll go and find the cheapest oil with the EC II label tomorrow. Probably do the change n stuff on Thursday.
Oh yeah, no prob about getting back to me bout my car dude, I understand we all get busy.
And as a response, no CHECK ENGINE light comes on!!! Hope that helps.
Thanks again. . .Cocoa! <---- VERY INTELECTUAL WHEN IT COMES TO OUR CLs y'all!!