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Use whatever brand of oil you want as long as the type/viscosity of the oil is correct. There are so many comparison videos on YouTube alone you can pick and choose from there. Me, I've been using Mobil1 since I got the car, but I've looked into other brands such as Royal Purple, Motul, and even the Amazon brand.
And of course the service adviser said to use their oil, it's their job to sell you their products.
I'm gonna use Walmart's Supertech synthetic oil that only cost $16 per 5 qts. I'm also gonna change the old every 5K miles and not use those cheap all paper Fram filters.
To me it's rather simple; Acura recommends their oil; if anything goes amiss, they can't blame aftermarket products; plus their's is cheaper than Mobil One; I've had 7 Acura's since '98; never once, have I used anything but Acura lubricants, & have never had ANY engine trouble
As dad used to say; "A word to the wise is sufficient"
The choice is your's
To me it's rather simple; Acura recommends their oil; if anything goes amiss, they can't blame aftermarket products; plus their's is cheaper than Mobil One; I've had 7 Acura's since '98; never once, have I used anything but Acura lubricants, & have never had ANY engine trouble
As dad used to say; "A word to the wise is sufficient"
The choice is your's
Always used Mobile 1 Syn EP & never had an engine problems. Point is you can't prove this type of a negative. Acura is not a refiner they buy oil from someone. In BMW's case 3 different refiners since I have been buying their cars. In some cases the dealer will have a better price in other Walmart or an Auto store. Personally never worry about the price of oil.
Am lazy so have 5 quart jugs delivered to the house from Amazon.
Key is the specs on the bottle vs the specs required in the owners manual.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 04-25-2019 at 11:46 AM.
Per the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, a manufacturer cannot insist on the customer using their OE brand of oil (or most other maintenance items for that matter) as long as the oil meets the spec required in the manual - API-Premium-Grade 0W-20 in this case.
If you don't believe me, go to the dealer and ask for a statement in writing that states that only the OE brand of maintenance items such as oil, oil filter, air filter, brake fluid, windshield washer fluid or coolant must be used OR the warranty will be void. You won't get it.
There are some grey areas. Honda uses a proprietary ATF, which doesn't require a lot of certifications and what not. So I wouldn't take a chance on that. But in that case, it's a non-standardized and non-regulated fluid unlike things such as API OIL, DOT 3 Brake Fluid and OAT coolant which have specific grades or identifiers indicating that they meet the requirements dictated by the manufacturer.
Honda's supplier is Connoco Phillips if that helps and it seems to be an OK oil for most folks. You can buy M1 5W20 EP or 0W-20 EP at walmart for $24 or usually with a free filter for $30 on sale. Spending $10/quart on dealer oil is insane for us. If it were a car needing 10W-60 or something much more heavy duty then it'd be a concern.
Honda's supplier is Connoco Phillips if that helps and it seems to be an OK oil for most folks. You can buy M1 5W20 EP or 0W-20 EP at walmart for $24 or usually with a free filter for $30 on sale. Spending $10/quart on dealer oil is insane for us. If it were a car needing 10W-60 or something much more heavy duty then it'd be a concern.
Agree at dealer prices the COBRA would be $80 & the 440 $70 just of the oil.
My dealer told me they use BEHR oil. I was confused and asked them to spell it out. Apparently the paint company "BEHR" makes engine oil. So I decided to buy Mobil 1 and have them supply the rest since I've never heard of that.
Folks, any 0W-20 oil, regardless of brand, will meet Honda's specifications for these engines; stressing over which oil to use is akin to stressing over which is better to drink, water from a Dasani bottle, or water from a Poland Springs bottle. Regardless of which oil you use in your engine, it will likely last much longer than the rest of the car; said another way, worrying about the brand of the oil in your engine is seriously over thinking things.
I would say Mobil 1 is the better oil, but in the end it probably won't make any difference. Engine wear won't be an issue for most modern cars if proper specs, and change intervals are followed, other things will be failing around the car long before the engine needs a rebuild due to wear.
I would say Mobil 1 is the better oil, but in the end it probably won't make any difference. Engine wear won't be an issue for most modern cars if proper specs, and change intervals are followed, other things will be failing around the car long before the engine needs a rebuild due to wear.
A better oil than what?
FWIW, I was always a Mobil 1 consumer, errr, until I started driving Hondas; for whatever reason, Mobil seems to get consumed a heck of a lot quicker than say, Castrol Edge, at least in my engines.
The fact is, there is nothing Mobil 1 can do that fully synthetics from the likes of Castrol, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Redline..., you name it. Pick any of those oils, change your oil on a regular schedule, and the engine will outlast the rest of the car.
As I've said numerous times here and on other forums, engine oil is like religion; use whichever you worship, it will make no difference to the car.
Corret. Why? Oil and filter change at my dealer is $44 and they provide free swirls for the car. That's cheap enough and it formally documents the service history.
Frees me up to over analyze the fluids I'm putting in my S2000 toy/track car.
FWIW, I was always a Mobil 1 consumer, errr, until I started driving Hondas; for whatever reason, Mobil seems to get consumed a heck of a lot quicker than say, Castrol Edge, at least in my engines.
The fact is, there is nothing Mobil 1 can do that fully synthetics from the likes of Castrol, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Redline..., you name it. Pick any of those oils, change your oil on a regular schedule, and the engine will outlast the rest of the car.
As I've said numerous times here and on other forums, engine oil is like religion; use whichever you worship, it will make no difference to the car.
A better oil vs the factory oil which the OP is asking about. Full synthetic vs a semi-synthetic with an unknown blend ratio.
Totally agree with the rest that you wrote which is what I said as well. Even on factory fill, engine wear is not going to be an issue with the life of the vehicle.
Personally haven't had any issues with burning M1, Pennzoil Castrol, or Valvoline in any of my Honda/Acura/Lexus engines (I use whichever is available), but did burn more M1 in my V8 engine cars than other oils. I've now settled on mail order Pennzoil, but also used Castrol, and Liqui moly without issue as well. There is no full synthetic motor oil I would say to avoid, they all exceed specs.
Correct. Why? Oil and filter change at my dealer is $44. That's cheap enough, it formally documents the service history, and they wash the car.
Frees me up to over analyze the fluids I'm putting in my S2000 toy/track car.
....no dealer washes/swirls for me.
I currently alternate with oil changes at the dealer if I need anything else done (recall or differential service with Honda only fluid), or full synthetic oil changes at my mechanic with oil I purchase.
I currently alternate with oil changes at the dealer if I need anything else done (recall or differential service with Honda only fluid), or full synthetic oil changes at my mechanic with oil I purchase.
Wow, I did know there was such an aversion to dealer washes. This has been the only car I've ever owned that's new enough to warrant a service paper trail. Thought the wash was a nice perk, guess I was wrong.
I'll have to keep an eye out for swirls, so far it's been fine and the worst scratches are from the wife putting something on the trunk
Most, regardless of make, stay away from service department washes. Too many bad experiences reported to make it worthwhile.
Thanks all for the tip. I'll reject the wash going forward.
Back on topic, I still maintain that a dealer performed oil change for $45 can be a better value than the incremental benefits of a DIY full sythetic roll your own.
Thanks all for the tip. I'll reject the wash going forward.
Back on topic, I still maintain that a dealer performed oil change for $45 can be a better value than the incremental benefits of a DIY full sythetic roll your own.
How is it you maintain that? I maintain doing your own oil changes is a far better value if for no other reason than it is done so much quicker.
How is it you maintain that? I maintain doing your own oil changes is a far better value if for no other reason than it is done so much quicker.
By the time the car is raised, oil drained, replace filter, fill, clean up messes, collect old oil and drop it off somwhere it's not a lot quicker for me but maybe I work slow. Given I typically bring a laptop and able to work / do bills etc.. while at the dealer so don't consider it time lost.
Oil/filter is typically $30-35 all in. So it's $15 "extra" for the dealer to do it. The $15 charge for the paper trail with the dealer makes it worth it (for me) for a newer car under warranty. Also taking into consideration these DI engines are relatively new and no telling what issues could crop up over 50K, 60K, 70K miles....will there be a TSB or recall in the future? Look no further than the Oil Dilution issues on the turbo models.
OTOH my S2000 and '08 Odyssey are pretty much fully depreciated and way out of warranty therefore 100% maintained by myself, guess I should have been more clear there are merits to both approaches but for the TLX and how it's used the dealer change makes sense. If this was an S2000 track forum I'd be arguing the opposite.
By the time the car is raised, oil drained, replace filter, fill, clean up messes, collect old oil and drop it off somwhere it's not a lot quicker for me but maybe I work slow. Given I typically bring a laptop and able to work / do bills etc.. while at the dealer so don't consider it time lost.
Oil/filter is typically $30-35 all in. So it's $15 "extra" for the dealer to do it. The $15 charge for the paper trail with the dealer makes it worth it (for me) for a newer car under warranty. Also taking into consideration these DI engines are relatively new and no telling what issues could crop up over 50K, 60K, 70K miles....will there be a TSB or recall in the future? Look no further than the Oil Dilution issues on the turbo models.
OTOH my S2000 and '08 Odyssey are pretty much fully depreciated and way out of warranty therefore 100% maintained by myself, guess I should have been more clear there are merits to both approaches but for the TLX and how it's used the dealer change makes sense. If this was an S2000 track forum I'd be arguing the opposite.
Hmmm, I do the oil change in my TL in less than fifteen minutes, start to finish. The closest Honda dealer to where I live is a 20 minute drive, each way, and the closest Acura Dealer is closer to an hour each way. As for the old oil, I just schlep it along when we go to the grocery store (or the local pizza joint, or the local micro brewery; they're all in the same area), and give it back to them when I buy the next round of oil.
Hmmm, I do the oil change in my TL in less than fifteen minutes, start to finish. The closest Honda dealer to where I live is a 20 minute drive, each way, and the closest Acura Dealer is closer to an hour each way. As for the old oil, I just schlep it along when we go to the grocery store (or the local pizza joint, or the local micro brewery; they're all in the same area), and give it back to them when I buy the next round of oil.
Good for you, I'd like to see it and maybe I'd learn something. Seems dealer acces is a key difference between our decisions points. I might travel 20 mins, but not an hour each way for an oil change. Anyway.
So...guess this has turned from a "What is different between two oils" into a "value of time" conversation. Everyones personal situation is different as such they need to value that independently as well as risk, car age, and other factors.
Back to the OP's question, Acura oils vs Mobil 1...
Hmmm, I do the oil change in my TL in less than fifteen minutes, start to finish. The closest Honda dealer to where I live is a 20 minute drive, each way, and the closest Acura Dealer is closer to an hour each way. As for the old oil, I just schlep it along when we go to the grocery store (or the local pizza joint, or the local micro brewery; they're all in the same area), and give it back to them when I buy the next round of oil.
Had the same thought, could do the change in less time then getting to the dealer, about 20 minutes. Sit & wait for the car X minutes then another 20 minutes home. Then there is the peace of mind knowing exactly what & how much went into the crankcase & that the work was done correctly.
Disclaimer I don't do 15/20 minute changes as a SOP. My driving is spread out over a few cars & do once a year changes so I use the time to check over the underside of the car for any wear or hidden damage. In the case of the COBRA all the Zerk fittings are greased.
Good for you, I'd like to see it and maybe I'd learn something. Seems dealer acces is a key difference between our decisions points. I might travel 20 mins, but not an hour each way for an oil change. Anyway.
So...guess this has turned from a "What is different between two oils" into a "value of time" conversation. Everyones personal situation is different as such they need to value that independently as well as risk, car age, and other factors.
Back to the OP's question, Acura oils vs Mobil 1...
And here you are posting again in here. If you have nothing to nice to say or nice to contribute, beat it
And here you are posting again in here. If you have nothing to nice to say or nice to contribute, beat it
Sorry if I've upset, hopefully this will contribute which summarizes my posts:
If you like the benefits which comes with dealer changes, and can justify the time, using dealer (Acura) oil, will work. You'll have a paper trail and your engine will not blow up due to oil choice.
If you like wrenching, have the time, and accept slight risk the dealer will tell you to piss off in the event of long term issue even if not oil related. Any Oil and DIY oil changes will work. Your engine will not blow up due to oil choice, but you might have a fight with dealer if there are issues down the road (I've been through one personally).
If you don't like your money, buy Acura oil and do DIY oil changes. Even still, your engine will not blow up due to oil choice.
If you like wrenching, have an older car out of warranty, use whichever oil makes you feel good. Your engine will not blow up due to oil choice. The dealer will tell you to buzz off regardless.
See the theme? The oil won't matter. It's everything around it which you need to decide.
04-24-2019, 10:24 PM
....no dealer washes/swirls for me. 
