GT4 GT40 setup
#1
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teh Senior Instigator
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 44,094
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From: Huntington Beach, CA -> Ashburn, VA -> Raleigh, NC -> Walnut Creek, CA
GT4 GT40 setup
how do you guys have the new GT40 suspension setup? I can't get rid of this ridiculous understeer
#3
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teh Senior Instigator
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 44,094
Likes: 980
From: Huntington Beach, CA -> Ashburn, VA -> Raleigh, NC -> Walnut Creek, CA
yea, once you kick up the brake bias it's not that bad at stopping, but the understeer is unreal
oh well, guess I'll buy a vette for the american races
oh well, guess I'll buy a vette for the american races
#6
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teh Senior Instigator
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 44,094
Likes: 980
From: Huntington Beach, CA -> Ashburn, VA -> Raleigh, NC -> Walnut Creek, CA
cool, glad to know i'm not the only one although I can get it to stop, I just can't it to do anything but go straight as the brakes are applied. I even set the bias up all crazy to see if I could swing the back end around. But no luck
#7
That brakes bias was gonna be my suggestion. Try the tow angle and/or camber. THat's how I made cars turn in the prior games. But do a little or else you'll kill your braking with no contact patch on teh ground. Anyone try the weight on the front?
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#8
**** DISCLAIMER: I don't own a PS2, let alone GT4. I'm speaking purely from experience on PC racing sims and general setup theory. I also suck at what I do drive on the PC. Proverbial grain of salt advised.****
The only place brake bias should really affect the oversteer/understeer characteristics is if the car is oversteering on corner entry.
Camber theoretically shouldn't have that large an impact either. If your camber settings are so far out of whack that they're causing gross understeer/oversteer, then you'll probably end up frying the tires off the car anyway. If your camber is reasonably in the ball-park, then proper adjustment is more for maximizing overall available grip than changing the handling characteristics.
Tow can definitely have an affect and is worth messing with. I would try the ARB's and spring's first though. One thing no one has mentioned is the differential. If GT4 has diff settings, definitely experiement with these for changing the understeer/oversteer characteristics on the slow and medium speed stuff.
The only place brake bias should really affect the oversteer/understeer characteristics is if the car is oversteering on corner entry.
Camber theoretically shouldn't have that large an impact either. If your camber settings are so far out of whack that they're causing gross understeer/oversteer, then you'll probably end up frying the tires off the car anyway. If your camber is reasonably in the ball-park, then proper adjustment is more for maximizing overall available grip than changing the handling characteristics.
Tow can definitely have an affect and is worth messing with. I would try the ARB's and spring's first though. One thing no one has mentioned is the differential. If GT4 has diff settings, definitely experiement with these for changing the understeer/oversteer characteristics on the slow and medium speed stuff.
#9
You're right about the camber. In the 1st GT game there as no toe option so I had to do that. What's ARB? Why would tuning the differential affect oversteer on a RWD car? I did that to my Skyline (AWD) where the rear wheels took more power but on a GT40?
#10
ARB's = anti-roll bars
[OK, here goes... advanced apologies for the blatantly obvious.]
A differential's job is to distribute the torque between axles. An AWD car such as the Skyline can theoretically have three diffs. One each front and rear to distribute torque left/right and a center diff to distribute torque front/rear. It sounds as if you were only adjusting the center diff or perhaps that's all GT4 makes available to adjust (Remember, I don't own the game.)
Forgetting AWD, most adjustable differentials for single axle applications will have three basic types of settings: power, coast, and preload. The power and coast settings determine to what degree the differential is "locked" when there is a torque being applied (on the power) or there is no torque being applied (off the throttle/coasting).
A fellow that goes by WR304 has written a really excellent guide on using telemetry data to develop setups. Below are the juicy bits from the differential section. The guide is written specifically for the GTR sim on the PC but, since the car types are similar, the same principles should theoretically apply to GT4 if the adjustments are present.
[OK, here goes... advanced apologies for the blatantly obvious.]
A differential's job is to distribute the torque between axles. An AWD car such as the Skyline can theoretically have three diffs. One each front and rear to distribute torque left/right and a center diff to distribute torque front/rear. It sounds as if you were only adjusting the center diff or perhaps that's all GT4 makes available to adjust (Remember, I don't own the game.)
Forgetting AWD, most adjustable differentials for single axle applications will have three basic types of settings: power, coast, and preload. The power and coast settings determine to what degree the differential is "locked" when there is a torque being applied (on the power) or there is no torque being applied (off the throttle/coasting).
A fellow that goes by WR304 has written a really excellent guide on using telemetry data to develop setups. Below are the juicy bits from the differential section. The guide is written specifically for the GTR sim on the PC but, since the car types are similar, the same principles should theoretically apply to GT4 if the adjustments are present.
• A higher power side number will result in better traction out of corners and power understeer
• A lower power side number will result in worse traction out of corners and power oversteer.
• A higher coast side number will result in better braking and understeer off the throttle.
• A lower coast side number will result in worse braking and lift off oversteer
The power side needs some qualification: A higher power side does indeed produce some power understeer, but only as long as the engine is not strong enough (or you're very light on the throttle) to spin the rear wheels. When you get the rear wheels to spin, with a high power side number, you will get SNAP oversteer! This is because BOTH wheels will then start spinning at the same time.
With a lower power side number, less horsepower is needed to spin the rear wheels, so in that respect it can give you oversteer, BUT one of the wheels (the inside one) will start spinning a lot earlier than the other, and that will not bring nearly as MUCH power-oversteer as TWO spinning wheels does.
So, a higher power number leads to more power understeer, up to a point when it all snaps sideways. A lower power number leads to a little more initial power oversteer, but makes the ensuing powerslide a lot more controllable as you apply more power than the rear tires can handle.
It’s possible to get an idea of how your differential settings are working by looking at the Oversteer Graphical Analysis Template. If you’re getting a large wheel slip figure accelerating out of a corner then your power side differential may be set too low as the wheels aren’t locked together tightly enough. If you’re getting a large wheel slip figure braking or off the throttle then your coast side differential may be set too low. The main criteria is how the car feels however.
Preload decides how quickly the transition between power and coast differential effects occurs. This controls how your car feels on part throttle (Roughly between 1% and 40% throttle). This is useful for deciding how responsive you want the power when you’re braking or off the throttle completely only the Coast differential figure affects the feel of the car. Above 40% a low preload value will result in a car that’s easier to control and will give a gentle transition between braking and accelerating as well as when you re-apply the throttle. This is useful for powerful cars making it easier to accelerate from a high preload value will result in a more responsive throttle pedal making it easier to adjust the cars line mid corner. Small movements on the accelerator allow you to balance the car and hold it on the limit of traction. The downside is that the effects are harsher than with a lower preload value making the car less stable and easier to spin at low speed when you re-apply the throttle after a braking zone or on corner exit. It’s also easier to break the rear tyres loose if you lift off the throttle too quickly.
• A lower power side number will result in worse traction out of corners and power oversteer.
• A higher coast side number will result in better braking and understeer off the throttle.
• A lower coast side number will result in worse braking and lift off oversteer
The power side needs some qualification: A higher power side does indeed produce some power understeer, but only as long as the engine is not strong enough (or you're very light on the throttle) to spin the rear wheels. When you get the rear wheels to spin, with a high power side number, you will get SNAP oversteer! This is because BOTH wheels will then start spinning at the same time.
With a lower power side number, less horsepower is needed to spin the rear wheels, so in that respect it can give you oversteer, BUT one of the wheels (the inside one) will start spinning a lot earlier than the other, and that will not bring nearly as MUCH power-oversteer as TWO spinning wheels does.
So, a higher power number leads to more power understeer, up to a point when it all snaps sideways. A lower power number leads to a little more initial power oversteer, but makes the ensuing powerslide a lot more controllable as you apply more power than the rear tires can handle.
It’s possible to get an idea of how your differential settings are working by looking at the Oversteer Graphical Analysis Template. If you’re getting a large wheel slip figure accelerating out of a corner then your power side differential may be set too low as the wheels aren’t locked together tightly enough. If you’re getting a large wheel slip figure braking or off the throttle then your coast side differential may be set too low. The main criteria is how the car feels however.
Preload decides how quickly the transition between power and coast differential effects occurs. This controls how your car feels on part throttle (Roughly between 1% and 40% throttle). This is useful for deciding how responsive you want the power when you’re braking or off the throttle completely only the Coast differential figure affects the feel of the car. Above 40% a low preload value will result in a car that’s easier to control and will give a gentle transition between braking and accelerating as well as when you re-apply the throttle. This is useful for powerful cars making it easier to accelerate from a high preload value will result in a more responsive throttle pedal making it easier to adjust the cars line mid corner. Small movements on the accelerator allow you to balance the car and hold it on the limit of traction. The downside is that the effects are harsher than with a lower preload value making the car less stable and easier to spin at low speed when you re-apply the throttle after a braking zone or on corner exit. It’s also easier to break the rear tyres loose if you lift off the throttle too quickly.
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