CCColtsicehockey

I want to do this as well. I will do it when I do AN fitting lines eventually. Or maybe when I at least get rid of the factory hard lines from being the restriction in my system at this point

edit: And I didn't know you bought those connections from China on eBay. You know better than that

CCColtsicehockey

Damn that sucks. That looks like the one the car had when I bought it but never got fixed.

CCColtsicehockey

So been a while since I made any updates to this thread. Not much has happened though since the broken window. I have passed over 100k miles a few weeks ago. I keep piling on the miles after that too.

I missed 100k but got it right after


This was a week ago and still putting more on


Decided yesterday it needed a detailing. It hadn't been washed in close to 8 weeks sadly. I also had a bunch of new detailing products I wanted to try out. New wash suds, radiant finish creme, wax, and glass sealant. The wash, glaze, and wax is all meant to help enhance the deep gloss and wet look on black and other dark paint colors.

Griot's Glass Sealant - - Basically it is supposed to be a better and longer lasting version of RainX. Supposed to last 3-6 months depending on how frequent it rains or you wash the vehicle.


Chemical Guys - Black LIght Radiant Finish Creme - http://jrphotodesign.net/vagon/maint...709_085237.jpg - I also used the wash that comes with their black car care kit.


Chemical Guys - Black Luminious Glow Infusion Paste Wax - https://www.chemicalguys.com/Black_L.../wac_307_1.htm


Finished results. I need to get some daytime shots this afternoon after work but I didn't finish till 10PM last night.










Super happy with the results. The car was long overdue for a full detail. Need to do the inside next later this week or this coming weekend.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Damn that looks fuckin hot!
Panty dropper

CCColtsicehockey

It is interesting using a dark-colored wax on a dark car cause it isn't as easy to see it haze without bright lights as white is. Also means if you miss a spot it doesn't stand out like a sore thumb.

Majofo

fuck yeah CCColtsicehock
ey

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I can't lie...although matching the depth for resprays is probably harder...man I love the pop of that tricoat...
sexy shit, Jason. Seriously.
With that wagon and your drive to get shit done...
you're the fucking man.

JT4

Looks great, that last pic has a real nice glow to it.....Been using Opti-Seal products for the most part and Collinite 845 from time to time but been wanting to try out some Chemical Guys products. Seeing your results may push me to buy a few..

CCColtsicehockey

I picked up a whole bunch of Chemical Guys products when they had an Amazon glitch earlier this year. Got many things for 75-85% off. This is the first of it I have used and so far I am extremely impressed. Before this I had been using lots of Griot's garage stuff when Advanced Auto started carrying it since you could use their coupons on it and get it for the same price as McGuires and it seemed to be a better product at that price. Still a fan of some of the Griots stuff too.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I found Griots hard as fuck to remove after it cured...
Personally, I always comes back to Wolfgang's sealant for gloss, longevity and ease of application.

CCColtsicehockey

Yeah their waxes are a little hard to remove. Still like their best of show wax though. Main thing I will probably keep using is their polishes though. I have had good luck with those. This Chemical Guys black wax was the easiest to apply and remove wax I have ever used.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Once I went machine polishing I kept on with Megs 205 and 105...
if I were going to go at it again, I'd get the 3M trio

juniorbean

iTrader: (5)

I like the Chemical Guys stuff but recently switched to Croftgate. They are one of the main sponsors of our show but I had been dismissing them b/c I thought it was all hype. Well, it's not... I love their stuff. I still use the Chemical Guys stuff for the deep clean but for the quick wash and wax the Croftgate stuff is amazing...

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

CG has a long history... i remember first being introduced to them 15 yrs ago...i feel their products are most user friendly... i always had luck with the Klasse duo as well...

i could never get the finishing on the Megs 105/205 combo right... no matter how hard i try...

sadly with limited time to rub on the car, i just take it to the hand wash...

TLDude876

iTrader: (7)

Sonax Perfect Finish is a good one step if you don't want to do a 105/205 two step. For normal maintenance washes, I've been using ONR with great results. Jescar powerlock topped with collinite 845 for my sealant/wax combo.

SamDoe1

You guys have any advice on how to remove hard water spots? That's the biggest issue I have right now...

Megs 105/205 is my go to though I rarely ever even touch the 105 these days. Keeping the car maintained keeps me out of the aggressive stuff. I've been using blackfire wet diamond for a while but I'm about ready to try something else. Might try the blacklight for my car but not sure how it'll go on a blue car...

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

super light polish...

Majofo

I don't even wash my ride..

SamDoe1

Ugh, I figured there would be a better/easier method than that...

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

have you tried just the 205 yet?

Sarlacc

SamDoe1

Yup. That's generally my go to, no need for anything more aggressive than that if the finish is properly maintained.

I'll start with the clay and see where it goes from there. I don't like to polish if I can avoid it. Windows can also be done with a paper towel soaked in vinegar, just fyi. I wouldn't do the same on paint though.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I just let my nuts hang. I drag them across the bonnet and the boot and it normally eliminates all the hard spots.

CCColtsicehockey

The blacklight and black luminous finishing wax are for black and other dark color colors. I think it would work fine on your car. I am going to try it on my CGP TSX this fall.

At somepoint too I am going to try and restore the paint on my parents 2003 Tahoe that has never been detailed in its life and that has been a southern outside kept vehicle for the last 8 years of its life.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Nobody uses Zaino anymore, huh?
I still recall hand compounding and polishing my first black TL incessantly.
So much so I got accused of master baiting a lot cause my arms got super swole.

SamDoe1

What you did there.


I see it.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

lowered2000tl

Majofo

Cheesus Crust Mang.. Drive that thing!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

19...wtf!!!!!!!!!
drive that bitch!

CCColtsicehockey

19k miles

I have put that on mine in the last 12 months.

00TL-P3.2

BDT looks so good cleaned up right.

lowered2000tl

CCColtsicehockey

So nothing really new with this car but dealing with a problem from a couple of years ago that I just kept putting off. I have had spacers on the car for the last 3 years. It appears that 3 of the 10 lugs holding my rear spacers on have become seized on and almost melted on to the studs. I can't get anything to get them off. The nuts have rounded from breaker bar + helper bar. I have tried torch to heat them up. I have tried forged vise grips that Have dug into the nuts but they just end up ripping off chunks of the nut. I have resorted to trying to cut off the one spacer so far that only has one seized on but but still can't get it to release.

So looking for any other ideas I may not have thought of. Trying to avoid the latch ditch effort of cutting off the stud and then grilling it out from the nut to get it to come off. Supposed to leave to travel for the holiday season soon and trying not to have to replace a wheel stud before then cause I hate doing them. Obviously I could care less about saving the spacers at this point. I won't even try and sell the two fronts that came off perfectly as I would wish this on no one. I have run spacers on all my other cars for years without ever having a single issue.



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SamDoe1

I think you've almost got it. Keep cutting until it's almost through, don't go all the way through lol, then hit it with a MAP gas torch and use a pry bar to split it in half to release the nut.

Hopefully it's not cross threaded on or something like that...

Majofo

Majofo

Remember when jofo was like..
Nah dawg, don't run a spacer (specifically to J)..

Majofo

I would have suggested to embrace your state of fucked
But now you've fucked yourself so much more

Majofo

Thing is.. see that divot in the bearing assembly.. that's for a retention screw on the rotor.
You're so fucked

Majofo

At this point.. it don't really matter.
Just don't lose any eyeballs or phalanges getting that bitch off.