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If anything I'd get adjustable top hats to dial in more camber up front to amplify turn in. Those things love camber. I had mine at -2.3 front and -1.8 rear. Handled like a dream.
Also if you find that you're suffering from bump steer I have the roll center correction kit from Whiteline. I don't think they sell it anymore. Still brand new.
If you're not suffering from bump steer though, there's no need for it.
If anything I'd get adjustable top hats to dial in more camber up front to amplify turn in. Those things love camber. I had mine at -2.3 front and -1.8 rear. Handled like a dream.
I'd think a bit of toe out would liven the turn in, moreso than a bit of extra camber? Maybe a bit of extra caster to add camber on turn-in?
More toe out will wear the tires faster; camber (within reason) won't.
Caster certainly helps, but that requires new bushings or adjustable arms, which drives the price up (and usually come with loud, clanky heim joints).
Good points. Do the twins not have any caster adjustment? I remember the ND Miata folks dialing them to about the max caster they could take without any issue.
I understood, they look nice but I don't have bump steer.
Which top hats do you suggest M?
He can chime in but I'm running the Raceseng plates. Real purdy, and you can adjust caster a bit as well.
Originally Posted by 00TL-P3.2
Good points. Do the twins not have any caster adjustment? I remember the ND Miata folks dialing them to about the max caster they could take without any issue.
Yeah, one of the sticking points about this platform, among other things. But there are plenty of options to fix that.
Camber bolts are a great alternative. Been too long since I looked into it but just keep your fingers crossed... you should be able to get -1.5 - 2 degrees with just the bolts.
Honestly the plates are overkill unless you really want specific alignment numbers or are tracking the car. As M said, the extra camber really helps the car stick, and yeah the spherical bearings make the front end a little clunkier sometimes. I just step on the go pedal harder, or turn the volume up and the sounds automagickally go away.
I thought the extra sounds would bug me at first, but between how loud my exhaust is and the tire hum everything gets kinda washed out. What's annoying is when the gf complains, but I think we all learn to tune that out a bit
The rear is pushing it a bit for my tastes, but I think you'll be fine.
I ran SPC rear LCAs and toe arms (along with the SPL eccentric lockout plates) on mine without a problem. But that's $500 worth of parts you may not need.
The eccentric for the toe link requires a press and is installed in one of two configurations. I didn't like that (from an install and adjustment perspective), which is why I went with the adjustable toe links.
But I definitely recommend the SPL lockouts for the toe link bolt on the subframe.
Hmm... I ran SPC LCAs before and they would not retain alignment angles. That was when I wanted rubber or poly connections to minimize clunking.
After driving for some miles, the bolt for camber adjustment on the SPCs would slip no matter how much they were tightened. I thought my alignment guy might have been limp-wristing it, so I marked the slots and tightened things up myself. Turns out the slotted design kinda sucks IMO. I didn't use the lockout kit like M did though, so that's probably why. If you go that route, I agree with adding the lockout kit.
Thought about putting loctite, but seemed like a ghetto solution so I just got rid of them. Self-lubricating rod ended LCAs are an option, but more NVH is possible (and more $$$)
Hmm... I ran SPC LCAs before and they would not retain alignment angles. That was when I wanted rubber or poly connections to minimize clunking.
After driving for some miles, the bolt for camber adjustment on the SPCs would slip no matter how much they were tightened. I thought my alignment guy might have been limp-wristing it, so I marked the slots and tightened things up myself. Turns out the slotted design kinda sucks IMO. I didn't use the lockout kit like M did though, so that's probably why. If you go that route, I agree with adding the lockout kit.
Thought about putting loctite, but seemed like a ghetto solution so I just got rid of them. Self-lubricating rod ended LCAs are an option, but more NVH is possible (and more $$$)
I didn't have that issue with mine over the 10k+ miles I had them. I don't recall a buddy of mine having that issue either.
BUT - that's one reason I don't like cam bolts - if they slip, your alignment settings are gone (which I why I suggest the lockouts on the toe bolts).
Undertrays off, hoping I can get at the upper end link bolts without taking the wheels off (I will if need be) forgot about the sway bar until I got it apart.
Couldn't get at the bolt. Once off couldn't get the end link out would have needed to loosen/move the strut & throw off the alignment, I'll install it after I get the toe bolt in there when I'm ready for another alignment (6 months between lifetime alignments)
10-13-2020, 03:28 PM
