My Buick at the paint shop.
#41
In the Mid-South meow
iTrader: (2)
#42
I know this is old but it looks great. I found out the problem with fiberglass fillers the hard way, besides the prep work required. I had someone bump my car while it was sitting at Sonic. A 2mph hit ended with fiberglass all over the ground. I have (or I should say had before my car got stripped) the urethane ones which worked really well but had a weird "dip" that was only noticable when the car was freshly washed.
This car I might not fuel with the engine running.![Tongue](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
This car I might not fuel with the engine running.
![Tongue](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
Thanks. Yeah, when I got my NOS fillers I was disappointed. They looked as if they were piled under some heavy boxes for about a dozen years. The rears had a waviness in them that took hours to get out. I think the fiberglass ones look good, but always wondered how they would do if ever hit.
Terry
#43
Team Owner
Weird, I answered this at work today right as I was leaving and it's not here. I must have forgotten to hit submit.
Bottom end:
Stock 763 rods magnafluxed and shotpeened. I took a dremel to them and removed any casting flash.
Same with the stock crank.
Production 4.1 block bored .035" over to a 4" bore to bring the cost of pistons down. I went through 3 other blocks until I found a 4.1 with enough meat in the cylinder walls to take the abuse. I learned there's a HUGE variance in cylinder wall thickness. Some were only .040" thick total!
I removed the upper two head bolt threads in the block to prevent stress cracks and used ARP studs with an allen head for in car removal of the heads.
I have a 14 bolt block girdle set up the right way with a little preload. All ARP hardware of course.
JE 8.5:1 pistons with tool steel pins.
Total Seal gapless rings.
212-212 Comp Cams flat tappet.
Ported GN1 heads.
Felpro 1004 gaskets.
Home ported intake manifold.
62mm bored stock TB
Garrett GT6765 DBB turbo.
Ford Powerstroke intercooler.
![what](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/what.gif)
60lb injectors with a ton of meth up top.
Dual in tank pumps.
Stock fuel lines.
![Tomato](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tomato.gif)
Chromoly pushrods and rockers supplied with the heads.
One of Bruce's full billet 200-4Rs and a 10" non lock 2,800 stall convertor.
The displacement really helped with the drivability. I'm incredibly happy with the turbo too. Between the GT series turbo, extra dispalcement and good heads, this thing has excellent street manners and spool is almost like stock. I remember the old days running a TE66 with a 3,400 stall and waiting for what seemed like minutes for it to spool. With this combo I run a tight 2,800 stall and 10 years ago I would not have imagined this kind of streetability with a turbo this large.
I stayed with the small 212-212 cam becuase I was really into street racing at the time and didn't want anything that would lope. This thing idles like stock at 800rpm. I was on a budget or I would've done a roller cam. With 256" of displacement and judging by how this one idles I think I could get away with a 218-218 cam.
I heard different things about the gapless rings when I was putting this one together but so far they've been great. It's very noticable how much longer the oil stays golden and how there are no vapors coming out of the breathers. I have the heads off of it right now and after 20,000 hard miles on this engine, the hone marks are still on the cylinders.
My father is running them in his S2 engine and none of the dreaded flutter even at 7,500rpm.
The intercooler I would never do to a nice GN. Mine had so many miles and was already cut on by the previous owner so I didn't mind doing a little "modding". I had a Spearco frontmount before the Ford unit and coolant temp were always an issue. With this huge but thin Ford unit, the car acts as if the intercooler is not there. With a cheap $120 F-body aluminum radiator and the old Ramchargers $80 dual fans it runs 170 summer or winter if I'm idling in traffic, going down the freeway or running it hard. I spend a lot of years fighting cooling problems before this combo.
If I had to list the cons of this combo or what I would change, it would be a roller cam for sure. Not just for power but so you don't have to worry about finding oil with ZDDP.
I would probably do a stroker crank even if power remained unchanged just for even better spool and lower octane requirments at the same power level. If I could make the same power at 24psi instead of 28psi it would be totally worth it.
The 4.1L breathes better than the 3.8 due to the larger bore but it does have a unique sound believe it or not. I prefer the 3.8's less raspy sound.
The 200-4R....... I no longer break them but I have $3,500 into it and it will still wear out on a regular basis. Now that the car is more of a toy than a DD I should've spent the $700 on a TH400 that will last for many years.
I know this is more than you asked for so sorry about writing a novel lol.
#44
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
That's a reflection. I took those photos after the sun had set. The camera was on a tripod with something like a 20 second exposure. The lights inside the car appear brighter than they actually are.
A place called B&G Autobody in south west PA. Just outside Weirton, WV.
Neither the Limited, nor the WH1 have had the vacuum conversion. The mileage is still relatively low on my car. Only 65k miles, while the white one has roughly 121k. It went through a restoration period about 4 years ago and the braking system was addressed at that time.
A place called B&G Autobody in south west PA. Just outside Weirton, WV.
Neither the Limited, nor the WH1 have had the vacuum conversion. The mileage is still relatively low on my car. Only 65k miles, while the white one has roughly 121k. It went through a restoration period about 4 years ago and the braking system was addressed at that time.
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