My '93 Civic CX build
02-16-2012, 03:54 PM
#83
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
02-20-2012, 10:47 AM
#84
woke up today to another non start... turns over and will not fire up.
distributor terminal resistance is at a solid .8 ohms (in spec)
secondary resistance from the coil to the main terminal is 17.8k ohms. (in spec)
voltage from the ICM to the neg battery terminal is 11.72V @30 degrees today (also in spec)
i pulled the plugs and they were fuel soaked, dried them off and let the cylinders air out.
put them back in and still no start. now my battery is dead and i have no one who can help me ;/
any other ideas? i want to test for spark but i cant crank the car and be under the hood at the same time
distributor terminal resistance is at a solid .8 ohms (in spec)
secondary resistance from the coil to the main terminal is 17.8k ohms. (in spec)
voltage from the ICM to the neg battery terminal is 11.72V @30 degrees today (also in spec)
i pulled the plugs and they were fuel soaked, dried them off and let the cylinders air out.
put them back in and still no start. now my battery is dead and i have no one who can help me ;/
any other ideas? i want to test for spark but i cant crank the car and be under the hood at the same time
02-21-2012, 08:56 PM
#86
Team Owner
Stock B18? if you don't have some "serious" mod on it. then you beat the driver not the car.
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phee (02-22-2012)
02-22-2012, 12:22 PM
#91
I drive a Subata.
iTrader: (1)
Do a video going up to 110! I'm not familiar with these engines at all.
02-22-2012, 02:37 PM
#93
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
We need to run.
02-22-2012, 04:30 PM
#96
I drive a Subata.
iTrader: (1)
02-22-2012, 04:45 PM
#97
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
02-22-2012, 04:56 PM
#98
I drive a Subata.
iTrader: (1)
2003 CL-S 6MT? Mod?
Just curious.
Just curious.
02-22-2012, 05:00 PM
#99
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Too much. 
Id post my build thread(s), but they info is so scattered, plus I had them locked.
Id post my build thread(s), but they info is so scattered, plus I had them locked.
02-22-2012, 05:09 PM
#100
I drive a Subata.
iTrader: (1)
Just list the performance mods! 
02-22-2012, 05:12 PM
#101
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Basics - 3.6l stroker, equal length, long tube headers, 80mm tb (soon to be replaced ), 3" exhaust, full PnP. Some other things are coming within the next month, at which point Ill start a new build thread. Currently sitting at 295/275 at the wheels. Hopefully will be about 330whp NA by April.
), 3" exhaust, full PnP. Some other things are coming within the next month, at which point Ill start a new build thread. Currently sitting at 295/275 at the wheels. Hopefully will be about 330whp NA by April.
02-22-2012, 05:25 PM
#102
I drive a Subata.
iTrader: (1)
That sounds freaking fun. 
Have you hit the drag strip?
Have you hit the drag strip?
02-22-2012, 05:26 PM
#103
I drive a Subata.
iTrader: (1)
god your avatar
02-22-2012, 05:29 PM
#104
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
02-22-2012, 05:34 PM
#105
I drive a Subata.
iTrader: (1)
02-25-2012, 06:18 PM
#107
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Last two pics are gone.EDIT - Now theyre working.
02-25-2012, 06:28 PM
#110
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
02-25-2012, 06:28 PM
#111
Looks good phee!
02-26-2012, 01:27 AM
#113
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
02-26-2012, 01:28 AM
#114
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
02-27-2012, 07:49 PM
#117
Your Friendly Canadian
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Age: 32
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Mm, hawt fender.
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phee (02-28-2012)
03-02-2012, 10:03 PM
#119
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
No way man. The new thing is raising it up as high as it'll go.
03-02-2012, 11:46 PM
#120
Hi phee
Generally, sanding down to metal is not required. In fact the vast majority of body shops do not do this. Removing all the paint/primer and resurfacing the steel is done in situations where metal replacement was necessary, potential contamination of various products, or the work is of a very high standard.
If you were to take the car down to metal, be aware that there will probably be additional expense to sand the metal smoothly, the application of an etch primer, the application of primer, and finally the two stage finishing product.
If the car is in good shape with no need of body repair or doesn't need to be laser straight, then applying a quality product over a properly prepared original surface would probably be the way to go.
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n1njai (07-05-2012)