A little help from the motor experts (teranfon,I hate cars, or others)
#41
Personally, I'd still be inclined to perform a bottom end rebuild even with 420 hours. Intake and heads are already off, and a few ancillary items removed it would be almost ready to pull. Are they difficult to separate from the leg?
Terry
#42
15 idle is not that bad. The 40 at WOT could be better. How many rpms does it spin at WOT? Pressure is not bad enough to make a higher grade mandatory but it's not a bad idea. At this point you may just look for a trend for as long as the oil stays clean. If pressure holds up, I would leave it alone. Generally you will see a much larger difference in pressure from cold to hot as the clearances open up.
#43
I really don't know that much about ski boats, but I'm sure eleven skiers is a lot.
Personally, I'd still be inclined to perform a bottom end rebuild even with 420 hours. Intake and heads are already off, and a few ancillary items removed it would be almost ready to pull. Are they difficult to separate from the leg?
Terry
Personally, I'd still be inclined to perform a bottom end rebuild even with 420 hours. Intake and heads are already off, and a few ancillary items removed it would be almost ready to pull. Are they difficult to separate from the leg?
Terry
Differences between marine and auto are generally cam's. From what I understand intake mani's and heads are different too. Things like water pumps will bolt right up, but will not last due to sediment in lake water.
as for oil, my 5.0L Volvo (gm) specs straight 30W full syn.
Last edited by The Dougler; 06-30-2010 at 09:34 PM.
#44
I really don't know that much about ski boats, but I'm sure eleven skiers is a lot.
Personally, I'd still be inclined to perform a bottom end rebuild even with 420 hours. Intake and heads are already off, and a few ancillary items removed it would be almost ready to pull. Are they difficult to separate from the leg?
Terry
Personally, I'd still be inclined to perform a bottom end rebuild even with 420 hours. Intake and heads are already off, and a few ancillary items removed it would be almost ready to pull. Are they difficult to separate from the leg?
Terry
I fully plan on a rebuild, i just need/hope it gets thru the summer. then ill tear it down and do a fresh build (want to help, ive seen your work)
#45
15 idle is not that bad. The 40 at WOT could be better. How many rpms does it spin at WOT? Pressure is not bad enough to make a higher grade mandatory but it's not a bad idea. At this point you may just look for a trend for as long as the oil stays clean. If pressure holds up, I would leave it alone. Generally you will see a much larger difference in pressure from cold to hot as the clearances open up.
#46
His is direct drive so there's no leg. Just a 2 speed trans. At this point unless you have your heart set on stroking it to 383, I'd pull it since your half way there and replace the mains and possibly oil pump.
Differences between marine and auto are generally cam's. From what I understand intake mani's and heads are different too. Things like water pumps will bolt right up, but will not last due to sediment in lake water.
as for oil, my 5.0L Volvo (gm) specs straight 30W full syn.
Differences between marine and auto are generally cam's. From what I understand intake mani's and heads are different too. Things like water pumps will bolt right up, but will not last due to sediment in lake water.
as for oil, my 5.0L Volvo (gm) specs straight 30W full syn.
I have NOTHING against pulling it and rebuilding it. I just want to find whats causing this stupid water issue. Its driving me nuts.
Heads on the motor are typical Vortec heads. The water pump is completely different than auto water pumps. You can see it off the crank in this pic. I pretty much have to replace the plastic impeller every other year.
Last edited by fsttyms1; 06-30-2010 at 09:53 PM.
#47
Thats what im trying to avoid with the holiday weekend
I have NOTHING against pulling it and rebuilding it. I just want to find whats causing this stupid water issue. Its driving me nuts.
Heads on the motor are typical Vortec heads. The water pump is completely different than auto water pumps. You can see it off the crank in this pic. I pretty much have to replace the plastic impeller every other year.
I have NOTHING against pulling it and rebuilding it. I just want to find whats causing this stupid water issue. Its driving me nuts.
Heads on the motor are typical Vortec heads. The water pump is completely different than auto water pumps. You can see it off the crank in this pic. I pretty much have to replace the plastic impeller every other year.
#48
yea, what was i thinking. Its been a long day. You can see the pump in the 1st pic i need sleep!
#49
I'm still a little confused.
Just to clarify, the boat does not have a water to water heat exchanger with it's own closed loop cooling system? I don't know much about boats but it's hard to believe it circulates lake water through the water jackets and heads. The exhaust I could understand.
Just to clarify, the boat does not have a water to water heat exchanger with it's own closed loop cooling system? I don't know much about boats but it's hard to believe it circulates lake water through the water jackets and heads. The exhaust I could understand.
#50
I'm still a little confused.
Just to clarify, the boat does not have a water to water heat exchanger with it's own closed loop cooling system? I don't know much about boats but it's hard to believe it circulates lake water through the water jackets and heads. The exhaust I could understand.
Just to clarify, the boat does not have a water to water heat exchanger with it's own closed loop cooling system? I don't know much about boats but it's hard to believe it circulates lake water through the water jackets and heads. The exhaust I could understand.
Last edited by fsttyms1; 06-30-2010 at 10:29 PM.
#51
I'm still a little confused.
Just to clarify, the boat does not have a water to water heat exchanger with it's own closed loop cooling system? I don't know much about boats but it's hard to believe it circulates lake water through the water jackets and heads. The exhaust I could understand.
Just to clarify, the boat does not have a water to water heat exchanger with it's own closed loop cooling system? I don't know much about boats but it's hard to believe it circulates lake water through the water jackets and heads. The exhaust I could understand.
#54
Well after replacing the head gaskets, riser gaskets and intake gaskets, i put it in the water and it ran great Friday and Saturday, THEN Saturday night it started taking on water again. Im beyond irritated. Motor will be pulled by me sometime this week for a full rebuild Im going to start out by having the head on the side we continue to have a problem with fluxed and looked for a crack. If that comes out fine the block will under go the same procedure. Im hoping its a head problem.
Now i need to start sourcing engine parts. Looks like Jegs may be good friends with me for a little bit here unless someone can recommend someplace better?
Now i need to start sourcing engine parts. Looks like Jegs may be good friends with me for a little bit here unless someone can recommend someplace better?
#55
#56
Well after replacing the head gaskets, riser gaskets and intake gaskets, i put it in the water and it ran great Friday and Saturday, THEN Saturday night it started taking on water again. Im beyond irritated. Motor will be pulled by me sometime this week for a full rebuild Im going to start out by having the head on the side we continue to have a problem with fluxed and looked for a crack. If that comes out fine the block will under go the same procedure. Im hoping its a head problem.
Now i need to start sourcing engine parts. Looks like Jegs may be good friends with me for a little bit here unless someone can recommend someplace better?
Now i need to start sourcing engine parts. Looks like Jegs may be good friends with me for a little bit here unless someone can recommend someplace better?
I could have it repaired, but it would be damn near the cost of a new one. I already pulled the trigger on a new one from Iboats, they had them 25% off, and I was able to pick up some other odds and ends that have been sitting in my cart for awhile. I went down 2'' of pitch and up to 4 blades from 3 so hopefully I'll get to plane faster with load and not loose much top end.
#57
I guess that's a lose-win? What's your plans for the build? Small over bore and heads?
I could have it repaired, but it would be damn near the cost of a new one. I already pulled the trigger on a new one from Iboats, they had them 25% off, and I was able to pick up some other odds and ends that have been sitting in my cart for awhile. I went down 2'' of pitch and up to 4 blades from 3 so hopefully I'll get to plane faster with load and not loose much top end.
I could have it repaired, but it would be damn near the cost of a new one. I already pulled the trigger on a new one from Iboats, they had them 25% off, and I was able to pick up some other odds and ends that have been sitting in my cart for awhile. I went down 2'' of pitch and up to 4 blades from 3 so hopefully I'll get to plane faster with load and not loose much top end.
#58
Sorry to hear it didn't work. You can always start small with the intake manifold and work your way down, starting with the heads.
I don't want to sound ignorant but my memory is real vague. I remember reading an article one time on someone that had the exact same issue as you. They could not stop the water even after having the heads and block magnafluxed. It turned out to be a pipe plug in one of the heads that only the marine engines have. This was a Chevy based engine. I know it's a long shot but if you can spot any pipe plugs under the valvecovers it may be a good place to start before pulling the engine.
Do you plan on keeping the same cam and untouched heads with the stroker bottom and building a torque monster or are you going to open it up a little to support the new displacement?
#59
Sorry to hear it didn't work. You can always start small with the intake manifold and work your way down, starting with the heads.
I don't want to sound ignorant but my memory is real vague. I remember reading an article one time on someone that had the exact same issue as you. They could not stop the water even after having the heads and block magnafluxed. It turned out to be a pipe plug in one of the heads that only the marine engines have. This was a Chevy based engine. I know it's a long shot but if you can spot any pipe plugs under the valvecovers it may be a good place to start before pulling the engine.
Do you plan on keeping the same cam and untouched heads with the stroker bottom and building a torque monster or are you going to open it up a little to support the new displacement?
I don't want to sound ignorant but my memory is real vague. I remember reading an article one time on someone that had the exact same issue as you. They could not stop the water even after having the heads and block magnafluxed. It turned out to be a pipe plug in one of the heads that only the marine engines have. This was a Chevy based engine. I know it's a long shot but if you can spot any pipe plugs under the valvecovers it may be a good place to start before pulling the engine.
Do you plan on keeping the same cam and untouched heads with the stroker bottom and building a torque monster or are you going to open it up a little to support the new displacement?
I will look to see what i can see and see if i can see these plugs?
As for the cam, i would like to upgrade. I need to find out what the actual spec is on the cam thats in it. I have asked Indmar (the company that makes the motor for my boat) a few times but they wont tell me the actual specs on it. I would like to open it up a little. Any more HP that can be gained easily i will do.
#60
Yea, im going to start of with the heads (not sure what or where to start with the IM) the same head gasket keeps blowing in the same spot on the starboard side (drivers side on a boat) between cyl 4 and 6.
I will look to see what i can see and see if i can see these plugs?
As for the cam, i would like to upgrade. I need to find out what the actual spec is on the cam thats in it. I have asked Indmar (the company that makes the motor for my boat) a few times but they wont tell me the actual specs on it. I would like to open it up a little. Any more HP that can be gained easily i will do.
I will look to see what i can see and see if i can see these plugs?
As for the cam, i would like to upgrade. I need to find out what the actual spec is on the cam thats in it. I have asked Indmar (the company that makes the motor for my boat) a few times but they wont tell me the actual specs on it. I would like to open it up a little. Any more HP that can be gained easily i will do.
#61
It only does it once water gets in the oil. The head was checked once before for being warped. Im not sure if it is. It will be rechecked, along with the block
#63
#65
#67
So what are the plans? Even though there's a chance you hurt the bottom end, it may not be a bad idea just to get a good baseline of what the oil pressure is without water in it and trend it to see if it's falling off. Do the cylinders still have the crosshatching?
#68
Glad you found it. Hopefully those are run of the mill SBC heads. If they're standard Vortec you're probably looking at <$100 for the head plus the reconditioning like a valvejob, seats, guides, and seals.
So what are the plans? Even though there's a chance you hurt the bottom end, it may not be a bad idea just to get a good baseline of what the oil pressure is without water in it and trend it to see if it's falling off. Do the cylinders still have the crosshatching?
So what are the plans? Even though there's a chance you hurt the bottom end, it may not be a bad idea just to get a good baseline of what the oil pressure is without water in it and trend it to see if it's falling off. Do the cylinders still have the crosshatching?
I would like to put it together and get it running, do a compression test and check the oil pressure. I cant recall if they still have the cross hatching. Ultimately i want to rebuild it this winter regardless if i can wait and get all new bearings and internals. The kids are being a real pain with no water toys.
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