Spokes are too thin for my taste.

 

dont like those wheels.. crazy but the back of the car looks like an older CLK in the 2nd pic..

 

they're nice wheels, but just dont look right on the GTO...not beefy enough

 

I think i'm gonna do them, paint them black w/ a body colored lip I think

 

i agree.. they look kinda small and not BUFF enough na mean na mean... i say you go for a rim without a lip

 

Good choice on RL D4 ATF...rare to see ATFs with a GL4 type additive pack. RL 10w30 is excellent as well for the engine. So is the 75W90 for the rear differential.

btw, did I here you mentioning that the dealer underfilled your oil during a routine oil change? Why would you need an oil change before 3K anyway...lol

Just go by the GM OLS for everything.

 

If you want to go wider in the rear (good bye gas mileage ) Perhaps go with a slightly larger well as well? Or is that just counter-productive and stupid? like 19"s rear/18"s front?

 

you'd be amazed at what junk was in there at 900 mile

 

i really have no interest in 19" wheels. 19" wheels mean expensive 19" tires. How will wider wheels effect my gas mileage much?

 

I hate those wheels. The spokes are too curvy for such a solid, straight body like the GTO. You need more structured wheels that are straight with a big ol' lip.

Id go 18s. The tires are expensive enough and if you go with a larger sidewall that gap wont be an issue. Most 19 inch tires I see are low pros. 18s are popular enough to allow you to shop around.

Not to mention 19s scream inefficiency and bling bling. Something I doubt you are interested in.

 

Shouldn't be any visible "junk" in there as long as the filter was catching it. Or, are you perhaps referring to the junk of the magnetic drain plug?

There is a slight assembly lube in the OEM fill that is designed to provide additional AW protection during break-in ya know...

 

yes, and that's what I wanted to get out I'm a strong believe as well as most engine builders I know in doing the first oil change at 500-1000 miles

 

Up until the first schedule drain interval I should've said...

Actually Scott, this engine prefers an oil thicker than the 5W30 11cst Mobil 1.

I've got a little secret...you can use M1 5W30 to keep the warranty cops out of your ass and at the same time...get more anti-wear additives and a higher viscosity.

Just add a full 15oz bottle of Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment to your Mobil 1 5W30 at each oil change, and it will give you a thick 5W30 with a bump in anti-wear additives. All that Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment is, is a concentrated dose of additives that are found in the additive pack of your typical engine oil.

PM me for more info...

 

Also...

I note I mentioned earlier that 75W90 RL was fine for the differential. In street applications, either 75W90 or 75W140 should be fine, though 75W140 is spec-ed for this application. (Didn't realize that earlier)

It'd probably be wise to use 75W140 under warranty, but you may gain some fuel efficiency when using a 75W90.

Either one will work...but 75W140 is probably the better choice whether your under warranty or not, as I've been told that thicker is better for differentials.

Lastly, I checked my viscosity calculator and found that the addition of 15oz of Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment to 6.0 qts of Mobil 1 SAE 5W-30 will bump the viscosity from 11cst to about 12.5cst, which is a borderline 40wt. This "mix" is a better choice for the Corvette engines as they prefer a slightly thicker oil, from past experience. By using this combo, you'll keep the warranty gods away as you're still starting out with the warranty approved Mobil 1 5W30 API-SM, and your addition of the Synpower Oil Treatment will keep the oil in grade, so if an oil analysis is done, the end-of-test viscosity should be a high 30wt or low 40wt (within 1cst of the starting viscosity), which is typical of Mobil 1 after a long drain.