GM Brake Issue
02-03-2009, 08:23 PM
#1
GM Brake Issue
so i am not exactly sure what is going on... but in my parents 90 Buick Park Ave, when you press on the brake pedal, you have a bit of free play in the pedal (which is most likely normal) but then the brake pedal feels like you hit a wall... and you have to press it very hard before the car begins to slow down...the pedal is almost to the floor before the car begins to want to stop...
not sure if it is a leak since the pedal doesn't go to the floor or lose pressure very easily... but it seems like there may be a blockage in one of the lines??? i took the cap off of the brake reservoir and pumped the brakes with the engine on and still hard???
could it be a vacuum issue???
not sure if it is a leak since the pedal doesn't go to the floor or lose pressure very easily... but it seems like there may be a blockage in one of the lines??? i took the cap off of the brake reservoir and pumped the brakes with the engine on and still hard???
could it be a vacuum issue???
02-03-2009, 08:42 PM
#2
It may be the booster. Pump the brakes a few times with the car off. Then hold your foot on the pedal and start the car. If the pedal moves after you start the car, then the booster is good. Also check the vacuum lines going to the booster.
02-03-2009, 08:49 PM
#3
just went outside to check the fluid.. it is full... i just tried the above and pumped the brakes... and held while starting... no movement... i think it is the vacuum booster too... but i am not familiar with GM cars... on the side of the master cylinder reserve tank looks like a black canister... is this the booster???
02-03-2009, 08:58 PM
#4
Booster will look similar to this. against the firewall
I think sometimes they are combined with the master cylinder.
Here's one for the car in question:
http://www.autozone.com/R,1070687/ve...ductDetail.htm
I think sometimes they are combined with the master cylinder.
Here's one for the car in question:
http://www.autozone.com/R,1070687/ve...ductDetail.htm
Trending Topics
02-03-2009, 10:42 PM
#8
it is weird... this morning when i started the car to move it out of the driveway, pedal felt fine... but when my mom took it to work this morning she says she felt it... i test drove it and felt it...
seems like the ABS systems on these models were complicated... pain in my ass...
seems like the ABS systems on these models were complicated... pain in my ass...
02-04-2009, 07:47 AM
#11
as crazy as this sounds, this morning when i went to check under the hood since there was actually light out, i could not find the brake booster hose... i think that since the ABS is integrated into the whole master cylinder/brake booster assembly...
02-04-2009, 08:52 AM
#12
Autozone lists it as one assembly. Master cylinder and booster.
Is that what it looks like?
http://www.autozone.com/R,1070687/ve...ductDetail.htm
Is that what it looks like?
http://www.autozone.com/R,1070687/ve...ductDetail.htm
02-04-2009, 09:40 AM
#13
it looks like the above diagram that i attached... it has an ABS accumulator bulb on the side of the reservoir tank... not sure why autozone doesn't stock the one with ABS... in their repair guides they do state about the ABS for this model. Teves Ii Anti-lock Brake System
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/rep...00c1528004ab9b
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/rep...00c1528004ab9b
I looked at that listing I posted 3 times and swore it said w/ ABS. 
02-04-2009, 10:21 AM
#15
Terry
02-04-2009, 10:29 AM
#16
it looks pretty damn close... i will snap a photo tonight when i get home...
i was strategizing a game plan to tackle this on Saturday... but this morning when i went to look at how the mster cylinder is mounted onto the brake booster... no clear bolts??? WTF???
why GM why!!!!
i was strategizing a game plan to tackle this on Saturday... but this morning when i went to look at how the mster cylinder is mounted onto the brake booster... no clear bolts??? WTF???
why GM why!!!!
02-04-2009, 10:44 AM
#17
Take a close look and get back to me. The reason you cannot find the vacuum hose is because it doesn't have one. Or any sort of vacuum assist for that matter. Do you see the small motor (item 21 on the diagram)? This small servo/electric motor is what supplies the power assist to the braking system. Vacuum is not involved in any capacity. And the accumulator bowl has nothing to do with the ABS.
These systems are very complex and expensive to repair. A complete assembly will be worth more than the value of the car. You can rebuild it, but parts are difficult to come by and it is time consuming. I have rebuilt two in the past, as Grand Nationals are equipped with the same system.
Before we go further, however, confirm the car is servo brake assisted. The small motor should be directly below the master cylinder. If equipped as such, then we can more appropriately determine the problem.
Terry
These systems are very complex and expensive to repair. A complete assembly will be worth more than the value of the car. You can rebuild it, but parts are difficult to come by and it is time consuming. I have rebuilt two in the past, as Grand Nationals are equipped with the same system.
Before we go further, however, confirm the car is servo brake assisted. The small motor should be directly below the master cylinder. If equipped as such, then we can more appropriately determine the problem.
Terry
02-04-2009, 11:16 AM
#18
registered pw
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: south central pa
Age: 49
Posts: 38,821
Received 354 Likes
on
252 Posts
It sounds like when it is warm it happens, That tells me it would be the booster. The cheapest way to check for any problems, is to bleed the brakes to make sure there isn't any air in the lines.
It seems like when the car is cold it is more capable to keep the pressure in the system. Once it warms up the pressure is lost.
It seems like when the car is cold it is more capable to keep the pressure in the system. Once it warms up the pressure is lost.
02-04-2009, 11:49 AM
#19
Take a close look and get back to me. The reason you cannot find the vacuum hose is because it doesn't have one. Or any sort of vacuum assist for that matter. Do you see the small motor (item 21 on the diagram)? This small servo/electric motor is what supplies the power assist to the braking system. Vacuum is not involved in any capacity. And the accumulator bowl has nothing to do with the ABS.
These systems are very complex and expensive to repair. A complete assembly will be worth more than the value of the car. You can rebuild it, but parts are difficult to come by and it is time consuming. I have rebuilt two in the past, as Grand Nationals are equipped with the same system.
Before we go further, however, confirm the car is servo brake assisted. The small motor should be directly below the master cylinder. If equipped as such, then we can more appropriately determine the problem.
Terry
These systems are very complex and expensive to repair. A complete assembly will be worth more than the value of the car. You can rebuild it, but parts are difficult to come by and it is time consuming. I have rebuilt two in the past, as Grand Nationals are equipped with the same system.
Before we go further, however, confirm the car is servo brake assisted. The small motor should be directly below the master cylinder. If equipped as such, then we can more appropriately determine the problem.
Terry
i did alot of google'in last night and there were a few sites that talk about the ABS system on this car being very unique and expensive... i don't think the ABS system itself has been working for a while since it has had the Anti-Lock light on in the dashboard... i took it to a mechanic and it checked out fine so i think it was a wheel sensor that may have turned on the light...
i am just trying to get the damn brakes to work again.. can care less about the ABS though...
will update tonight...
02-04-2009, 08:07 PM
#21
Welcome to the wonderful world of GM servo assisted brakes. One of the most asinine ideas to come out to General Motors.
Let's start with the easiest stuff first:
Can you hear a constant noise coming from the servo? While driving, are you aware of a constant whirring sound? If not, is it present when you use the brakes? And if so, can you feel it through the brake pedal? Also, is your "brake" light constantly on?
The car WILL stop, but you find will most likely find the pedal hard as hell, and with absolutely little or no travel other than the soft or spongy feel at the top.
Terry
Let's start with the easiest stuff first:
Can you hear a constant noise coming from the servo? While driving, are you aware of a constant whirring sound? If not, is it present when you use the brakes? And if so, can you feel it through the brake pedal? Also, is your "brake" light constantly on?
The car WILL stop, but you find will most likely find the pedal hard as hell, and with absolutely little or no travel other than the soft or spongy feel at the top.
Terry
02-04-2009, 09:22 PM
#22
i have never heard a whirring sound from the engine bay before... a whirring sound that i do recall used to sound like it come from the rear wheel... i always thought it was the tire at highway speeds... not sure i can recall feeling a whirring through the brake pedal...
the red brake light used to be constantly on with the amber Anti Lock light during driving... but over the last few months only the anti lock brake light has been on... red brake light has been off lately and will only come on when the emergency brake is engaged...
yes exactly what i felt on the pedal yesterday... the top few inches felt like there was no pressure at all and completely spongy, and then it feels like i hit a wall and am doing leg presses on brake pedal in order for the car to slow and and eventually stop...
the red brake light used to be constantly on with the amber Anti Lock light during driving... but over the last few months only the anti lock brake light has been on... red brake light has been off lately and will only come on when the emergency brake is engaged...
yes exactly what i felt on the pedal yesterday... the top few inches felt like there was no pressure at all and completely spongy, and then it feels like i hit a wall and am doing leg presses on brake pedal in order for the car to slow and and eventually stop...
02-04-2009, 09:27 PM
#23
See if you can have someone use the brakes while the car is in stationary while you are listening under the hood. Have them place firm pressure on the pedal and maintain if for a prolonged period. Place your hand on the servo (the little electric motor) to see if you can feel it moving. We're trying to determine the extent (if any) of cycling.
Do your parent's have any sort of attachment to this car?
Terry
Do your parent's have any sort of attachment to this car?
Terry
02-04-2009, 09:37 PM
#24
the car is basically used as a work horse... i use it to lug stuff back and forth from home depot for my house and my mom uses the car to go to work... since it is in the 'ghetto' they don't mind just parking the car and forgetting about it... won't have to worry about it getting banged, stolen or broken into... it has 240k miles and the engine and tranny are still strong (besides a slight coolant leak, and now this brake issue)
i will give it a shot tomorrow to see if the servo kicks and report back to you... thanks for all your help Terry...
i will give it a shot tomorrow to see if the servo kicks and report back to you... thanks for all your help Terry...
02-04-2009, 10:16 PM
#25
No problem. I've had a little too much experience with these particular brake setups.
The following is what should be in your Buick. A nice overview and easy to understand. Take note of the prices................ And they may no longer be current or even offered for your application.
http://www.kazmotorsports.com/tpsgar...owermaster.htm
Terry
The following is what should be in your Buick. A nice overview and easy to understand. Take note of the prices................ And they may no longer be current or even offered for your application.
http://www.kazmotorsports.com/tpsgar...owermaster.htm
Terry
02-04-2009, 10:20 PM
#26
No problem. I've had a little too much experience with these particular brake setups.
The following is what should be in your Buick. A nice overview and easy to understand. Take note of the prices................ And they may no longer be current or even offered for your application.
http://www.kazmotorsports.com/tpsgar...owermaster.htm
Terry
The following is what should be in your Buick. A nice overview and easy to understand. Take note of the prices................ And they may no longer be current or even offered for your application.
http://www.kazmotorsports.com/tpsgar...owermaster.htm
Terry
02-04-2009, 10:22 PM
#27
02-05-2009, 07:22 AM
#28
No problem. I've had a little too much experience with these particular brake setups.
The following is what should be in your Buick. A nice overview and easy to understand. Take note of the prices................ And they may no longer be current or even offered for your application.
http://www.kazmotorsports.com/tpsgar...owermaster.htm
Terry
The following is what should be in your Buick. A nice overview and easy to understand. Take note of the prices................ And they may no longer be current or even offered for your application.
http://www.kazmotorsports.com/tpsgar...owermaster.htm
Terry
would you happen to know where i can find info on this??? on my drive into work this morning i started weighing a bit of options... like i said previously, i can care less about the abs, but if i can get the normal brake system to work again, ill be happy... otherwise if it is $500 or more, ill suggest my parents donate the car...
this morning i tried to test the servo motor as you suggested yesterday... but i can't tell the difference from the vibration of the engine or if the servo motor is kicking... but i wasn't sure how long the brake pedal had to be held... only did it for 20 secs or so...
02-05-2009, 07:46 AM
#29
No problem. I've had a little too much experience with these particular brake setups.
The following is what should be in your Buick. A nice overview and easy to understand. Take note of the prices................ And they may no longer be current or even offered for your application.
http://www.kazmotorsports.com/tpsgar...owermaster.htm
Terry
The following is what should be in your Buick. A nice overview and easy to understand. Take note of the prices................ And they may no longer be current or even offered for your application.
http://www.kazmotorsports.com/tpsgar...owermaster.htm
Terry
Conversion To Vacuum Brakes
It would seem that it wouldn't be too hard to remove the entire Powermaster assembly and just replace it with the cheaper vacuum setup. The parts can be had for about $150 from a salvage, far cheaper than even getting a Powermaster Rebuilt. But there's a catch.
The PMIII is a conventional front/back split master cylinder. It has one pressure line running to the back of the car and a proportioning valve there that splits to the rear brakes. The vacuum units are dual diagonal units that have two lines running to the back.
Here's the ultimate catch! The vacuum brake booster cam locks into the firewall. The PMIII bolts in place. There is a galvanized panel behind the brake booster that needs to be replaced! That requires removing the dashboard, steering column and replacing the panel.
I have done this job and while its not terrible its not for the faint of heart. It can be done.
Fortunately the intake plenum just has a plug where the vacuum line goes, so it will be easy to get vacuum to the unit once its in.
If you are brave enough to tackle this yourself, here's what you'll need:
A vacuum brake booster and master cylinder
The rear brake lines
Firewall section
Vacuum line
Front brake lines
A lot of time and patience
02-05-2009, 10:14 AM
#30
registered pw
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: south central pa
Age: 49
Posts: 38,821
Received 354 Likes
on
252 Posts
here are some that are local for you
1990
Master Cylinder
Oldsmobile 98 P09010 $Call Joe's Auto Wrecking USA-NY(Mount-Vernon) E-mail 1-914-664-7874 / 1-800-322-5637 18 miles
1989
Master Cylinder
Cadillac DeVille 4.5L,FWD A 080133 $Call Valley Auto Wreckers USA-NJ(Wharton) E-mail 973-366-0058 24
1989
Master Cylinder
Cadillac DeVille P5026 $Call Mid Island Auto Parts, Inc. USA-NY(Deer-Park) E-mail 631-586-6599 52
1990
Master Cylinder
Cadillac Fleetwood FWD 4.5,FWD A JE112 $Call Mid Island Auto Parts, Inc. USA-NY(Deer-Park) E-mail 631-586-6599 52
1990
Master Cylinder
Cadillac DeVille FWD 3497 $Call J.C. Recycling, Inc. USA-CT(Meriden) E-mail 1-888-247-1199 88
1990
Master Cylinder
Cadillac FWD 4-90,4.5, A 0I2276 $Call #1 Morgan Highway Auto Parts USA-PA(Scranton) Request_Quote 1-800-648-1441 Request_Insurance_Quote
90
1990
Master Cylinder
Oldsmobile 98 P09010 $Call Joe's Auto Wrecking USA-NY(Mount-Vernon) E-mail 1-914-664-7874 / 1-800-322-5637 18 miles
1989
Master Cylinder
Cadillac DeVille 4.5L,FWD A 080133 $Call Valley Auto Wreckers USA-NJ(Wharton) E-mail 973-366-0058 24
1989
Master Cylinder
Cadillac DeVille P5026 $Call Mid Island Auto Parts, Inc. USA-NY(Deer-Park) E-mail 631-586-6599 52
1990
Master Cylinder
Cadillac Fleetwood FWD 4.5,FWD A JE112 $Call Mid Island Auto Parts, Inc. USA-NY(Deer-Park) E-mail 631-586-6599 52
1990
Master Cylinder
Cadillac DeVille FWD 3497 $Call J.C. Recycling, Inc. USA-CT(Meriden) E-mail 1-888-247-1199 88
1990
Master Cylinder
Cadillac FWD 4-90,4.5, A 0I2276 $Call #1 Morgan Highway Auto Parts USA-PA(Scranton) Request_Quote 1-800-648-1441 Request_Insurance_Quote
90
02-05-2009, 10:15 AM
#31
registered pw
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: south central pa
Age: 49
Posts: 38,821
Received 354 Likes
on
252 Posts
actually some that showed up on the search were somewhat cheap, these you must call for
http://car-part.com
http://car-part.com
02-05-2009, 01:19 PM
#32
is this the conversion??? if so, fcuk me i think i will raise the white flag on this one...
Conversion To Vacuum Brakes
It would seem that it wouldn't be too hard to remove the entire Powermaster assembly and just replace it with the cheaper vacuum setup. The parts can be had for about $150 from a salvage, far cheaper than even getting a Powermaster Rebuilt. But there's a catch.
The PMIII is a conventional front/back split master cylinder. It has one pressure line running to the back of the car and a proportioning valve there that splits to the rear brakes. The vacuum units are dual diagonal units that have two lines running to the back.
Here's the ultimate catch! The vacuum brake booster cam locks into the firewall. The PMIII bolts in place. There is a galvanized panel behind the brake booster that needs to be replaced! That requires removing the dashboard, steering column and replacing the panel.
I have done this job and while its not terrible its not for the faint of heart. It can be done.
Fortunately the intake plenum just has a plug where the vacuum line goes, so it will be easy to get vacuum to the unit once its in.
If you are brave enough to tackle this yourself, here's what you'll need:
A vacuum brake booster and master cylinder
The rear brake lines
Firewall section
Vacuum line
Front brake lines
A lot of time and patience
Conversion To Vacuum Brakes
It would seem that it wouldn't be too hard to remove the entire Powermaster assembly and just replace it with the cheaper vacuum setup. The parts can be had for about $150 from a salvage, far cheaper than even getting a Powermaster Rebuilt. But there's a catch.
The PMIII is a conventional front/back split master cylinder. It has one pressure line running to the back of the car and a proportioning valve there that splits to the rear brakes. The vacuum units are dual diagonal units that have two lines running to the back.
Here's the ultimate catch! The vacuum brake booster cam locks into the firewall. The PMIII bolts in place. There is a galvanized panel behind the brake booster that needs to be replaced! That requires removing the dashboard, steering column and replacing the panel.
I have done this job and while its not terrible its not for the faint of heart. It can be done.
Fortunately the intake plenum just has a plug where the vacuum line goes, so it will be easy to get vacuum to the unit once its in.
If you are brave enough to tackle this yourself, here's what you'll need:
A vacuum brake booster and master cylinder
The rear brake lines
Firewall section
Vacuum line
Front brake lines
A lot of time and patience
02-05-2009, 02:07 PM
#33
is this the conversion??? if so, fcuk me i think i will raise the white flag on this one...
Conversion To Vacuum Brakes
It would seem that it wouldn't be too hard to remove the entire Powermaster assembly and just replace it with the cheaper vacuum setup. The parts can be had for about $150 from a salvage, far cheaper than even getting a Powermaster Rebuilt. But there's a catch.
The PMIII is a conventional front/back split master cylinder. It has one pressure line running to the back of the car and a proportioning valve there that splits to the rear brakes. The vacuum units are dual diagonal units that have two lines running to the back.
Here's the ultimate catch! The vacuum brake booster cam locks into the firewall. The PMIII bolts in place. There is a galvanized panel behind the brake booster that needs to be replaced! That requires removing the dashboard, steering column and replacing the panel.
I have done this job and while its not terrible its not for the faint of heart. It can be done.
Fortunately the intake plenum just has a plug where the vacuum line goes, so it will be easy to get vacuum to the unit once its in.
If you are brave enough to tackle this yourself, here's what you'll need:
A vacuum brake booster and master cylinder
The rear brake lines
Firewall section
Vacuum line
Front brake lines
A lot of time and patience
Conversion To Vacuum Brakes
It would seem that it wouldn't be too hard to remove the entire Powermaster assembly and just replace it with the cheaper vacuum setup. The parts can be had for about $150 from a salvage, far cheaper than even getting a Powermaster Rebuilt. But there's a catch.
The PMIII is a conventional front/back split master cylinder. It has one pressure line running to the back of the car and a proportioning valve there that splits to the rear brakes. The vacuum units are dual diagonal units that have two lines running to the back.
Here's the ultimate catch! The vacuum brake booster cam locks into the firewall. The PMIII bolts in place. There is a galvanized panel behind the brake booster that needs to be replaced! That requires removing the dashboard, steering column and replacing the panel.
I have done this job and while its not terrible its not for the faint of heart. It can be done.
Fortunately the intake plenum just has a plug where the vacuum line goes, so it will be easy to get vacuum to the unit once its in.
If you are brave enough to tackle this yourself, here's what you'll need:
A vacuum brake booster and master cylinder
The rear brake lines
Firewall section
Vacuum line
Front brake lines
A lot of time and patience
First of all, lets still try to see if there is any way to easily repair the original system. Admittedly, the easiest and cheapest repair is the replacement of the accumulator bowl. Unfortunately, if the accumulator isn't the problem, more expensive repairs are needed. Try instead pumping the brakes while the car is stationary about fourty times with the ignition off. Have someone turn the key to on (not start) while you have your head under the hood and listen to the servo motor. If it is operating correctly you should definitely hear it run for about fifteen seconds. Try this first and we'll move to the next step.
Terry
02-05-2009, 08:33 PM
#35
S E L L
It might be less of a hassle and/or more cost effective to junk/donate the car rather than repair it. You said it has 240K miles so it's a fair assumption that a lot of other parts are wearing out too. Not just powertrain parts but suspension/steering parts, electrical motors, interior bits and pieces, etc. You may be better off buying a lil' old pickup like a Toyota, Mazda (older one, not Ford clone), Nissan to do your Home Depot trips. 
02-06-2009, 11:14 AM
#36
Most likely, yes. Now you know why PowerMasters are universally considered to be a pain in the ass. I know the first generation were much easier to remove and install a vacuum system. See how the unit is affixed to the firewall to make a determination.
First of all, lets still try to see if there is any way to easily repair the original system. Admittedly, the easiest and cheapest repair is the replacement of the accumulator bowl. Unfortunately, if the accumulator isn't the problem, more expensive repairs are needed. Try instead pumping the brakes while the car is stationary about fourty times with the ignition off. Have someone turn the key to on (not start) while you have your head under the hood and listen to the servo motor. If it is operating correctly you should definitely hear it run for about fifteen seconds. Try this first and we'll move to the next step.
Terry
First of all, lets still try to see if there is any way to easily repair the original system. Admittedly, the easiest and cheapest repair is the replacement of the accumulator bowl. Unfortunately, if the accumulator isn't the problem, more expensive repairs are needed. Try instead pumping the brakes while the car is stationary about fourty times with the ignition off. Have someone turn the key to on (not start) while you have your head under the hood and listen to the servo motor. If it is operating correctly you should definitely hear it run for about fifteen seconds. Try this first and we'll move to the next step.
Terry
after fiddling around and touching the motor and the bottom of the brake reservoir, i heard after about 5-10 secs what sounded like liquid swooshing around inside where i was holding... it lasted for a few secs then stopped... about 20-30 seconds later, i heard it again... but then silence again...
i started the car and drove it around the block to recharge the battery a bit... and came back... shut off the car and tried to do the above again to see if i can duplicate the swooshing of the liquid... was not successful...
It might be less of a hassle and/or more cost effective to junk/donate the car rather than repair it. You said it has 240K miles so it's a fair assumption that a lot of other parts are wearing out too. Not just powertrain parts but suspension/steering parts, electrical motors, interior bits and pieces, etc. You may be better off buying a lil' old pickup like a Toyota, Mazda (older one, not Ford clone), Nissan to do your Home Depot trips.
02-06-2009, 01:31 PM
#37
You should definitely hear the servo cycling. It's odd that you can hear it pressurizing, but no sounds from the motor. If the motor was continually running, then either the master needs to be rebuilt or the accumulator needs to be replaced. If the servo doesn't operate then it's either the switch or the motor itself.
See what your mechanic says, but keep in mind not too many techs are familiar with this particular system. If you do determine it needs the servo, try to spend some time to see if it will cross reference with GM part # 18011279. It's unlikely, as what I can see from the pics you posted it appears to be a smaller diameter motor. I have a used one, but have no idea if it works. If it is the correct one, and it tests out OK, you're certainly welcome to it.
Terry
See what your mechanic says, but keep in mind not too many techs are familiar with this particular system. If you do determine it needs the servo, try to spend some time to see if it will cross reference with GM part # 18011279. It's unlikely, as what I can see from the pics you posted it appears to be a smaller diameter motor. I have a used one, but have no idea if it works. If it is the correct one, and it tests out OK, you're certainly welcome to it.
Terry
02-07-2009, 12:48 PM
#38
so my mechanic is a bit funny... he saw me pull up and said "your father still has this car???"
i say maybe not for long... he said whatever it is, won't be worth to fix... so i told him the problem and he said spongey brake at the top and then no brake assist, must be the power brake vacuum boost... he was suprised to see that this model even has the system on it... right there he said that the parts are expensive and may not even be worth fixing...
so that was enough verification for me... i just got home from picking up another car... i will post pics soon...
Terry - i want to especially thank you for all your help this week...
i say maybe not for long... he said whatever it is, won't be worth to fix... so i told him the problem and he said spongey brake at the top and then no brake assist, must be the power brake vacuum boost... he was suprised to see that this model even has the system on it... right there he said that the parts are expensive and may not even be worth fixing...
so that was enough verification for me... i just got home from picking up another car... i will post pics soon...
Terry - i want to especially thank you for all your help this week...
02-07-2009, 02:04 PM
#39
so my mechanic is a bit funny... he saw me pull up and said "your father still has this car???"
i say maybe not for long... he said whatever it is, won't be worth to fix... so i told him the problem and he said spongey brake at the top and then no brake assist, must be the power brake vacuum boost... he was suprised to see that this model even has the system on it... right there he said that the parts are expensive and may not even be worth fixing...
so that was enough verification for me... i just got home from picking up another car... i will post pics soon...
Terry - i want to especially thank you for all your help this week...
i say maybe not for long... he said whatever it is, won't be worth to fix... so i told him the problem and he said spongey brake at the top and then no brake assist, must be the power brake vacuum boost... he was suprised to see that this model even has the system on it... right there he said that the parts are expensive and may not even be worth fixing...
so that was enough verification for me... i just got home from picking up another car... i will post pics soon...
Terry - i want to especially thank you for all your help this week...
If you manage to determine one of my used servos might work you are still welcome to it. If not, it may be time to let the 'ole girl go and get a welcome tax receipt.
Terry
