Thats topic been covered to death as well. There are very experienced manual drivers who went for DCT on the forums.

But I can admit that I am not the best at it.

This guy tracks a lot too http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...t#post10298831

 

here's the other side - I can see really experienced track drivers (me = amateur) preferring DCT now, because it's faster than stick. I mean they will run faster laps with DCT. And I think that's a fact. Since I'm an amateur, I'm more concerned about how much fun I am having - and for me heel and toeing and shifting manually is more fun. Even when I was driving the LFA, I felt the experience was lacking because there was no MT. As crazy as that sounds.

 

Naw i get it. I felt like a track star with dct at autobahn but now I am a little intimidated with the manual.

 

new BRZ and NEW genesis coupe are tempting this year hmmm but genesis is kinda ugly now with new front end

348hp for 26k ?

i want to see if BRZ will come out with FI

 

I thought it was confirmed that no go for BRZ F/I.

 

i heard only rumor that it will lol but yeah it probably wont

 

In the past 3 years or so have I really started to rev-match on my downshifts. I still do not have the coordination to feel comfortable heel-toeing, but I keep working at it. I enjoy having that connection with the car, and if I screw up, I screw up.

I have yet to drive any good DCTs though, but at this moment, I have no desire to own one either. Ill gladly drive the slower car if it means I get to choose which gear I want.

Definitely good power, but the Genesis is still heavy and, IMO, not a very attractive car.

 

I havent been keeping up.... are any serious motorcycles "DCT?"

 

Scooters?

The VFR1200 is available with a DCT. I have no experience with it, but it has to be a bit weird.

 

what a relief.... there is still some excitement in the world

 

 

The BRZ stock will cost about 26k and you get 200hp

they're suppose to come out with a higher output one later didnt say how but they will.

I think i would still take the brz

 

The Gen Coupe with an upgraded 2.0T vs BRZ are two totally different cars. They are not in the same segment. It's just dumb to say one is better the other.

 

I have a question. One of my coworkers drives a 2002 Accord coupe. I guess the car's battery is dying or something because it takes like 3 seconds to turn it on. Does anyone know if it's the battery that's going out?

 

Battery.....starter.....main relay.....fuel pump......it could be many things. Have the battery tested.

 

How do I test the battery again?

 

Take a coat hanger, wet your hands, and touch both terminals with the hanger.


Use a multimeter or take it to AutoZone.

 

If you have the time, the auto part store should be able to test it for you for free.

If not, hook up a multimeter to the battery terminals. Engine off should read ~12V. Have someone turn on the car. During the crank, you should read around 9-10V. Bad battery will be lower (I've seen 7-8V, could be lower)

But like civic said, it could be a number of things.

 

This.

 

FWIW, most Hondas take longer than average to start. My 2003 4-cylinder takes about a second and a half to start on a normal day.

My battery's starting to give out though, couple that with a cold day and slower starting system, and if I were to take it out now it'd probably take about 2-3 seconds to start.


Side note: You know how most older Hondas have a characteristic rattle? Almost all the older 4-cylinders I've heard have it, especially when cold. I'm trying to avoid it, but don't know what causes it. All engine maintenance is up to date, save for that battery. Really annoying because IMO the car sounds like crap from the outside.

IMO it sounds great from the inside. But as soon as you roll down the window...

Yeah, I care about the exhaust note on my 9 year old family sedan. So what?

 

Thanks guys. He's going to check it out tomorrow.

It's definitely not normal.

 

when engine running check voltage it should be around 13.8V-14.4V then turn everything you can think off that is electrical if the voltage drops below that value you have a bad alternator... while car is off multimeter should show you ~12.8V

 

never knew this.

So when you first test it make sure to have things on such as the radio/gps/lights, just so you have things to turn off?

 

I think he meant to type "of", not "off". While car is running, you want to turn things ON. So you can see if the alternator is compensating for the extra draw.

 

I dont think Im familiar with this rattle. Coming from the engine bay? The only thing I can think of with the rattle in your car is the timing chain.

But if you say all 4cyl Hondas, including D, H, B, R and F series along with the K, Im not sure what rattle you mean. When my accessory belt tensioner was on its way out it would squeak/rattle, but that was it.

 

You need to see the Genesis coupe in person. It's not that bad. Some colors actually work better than others too.

 

One more question, another coworker drives a 2008 Infiniti M35, he said he had to get his front brake rotors resurfaced twice within 4 months. Whenever he brakes on the freeway, the steering wheel shakes pretty violently.

What's the problem? Rotor?

 

The symptom sounds like a warped rotor. However, unless the resurfacing (which is really just trimming the rotor) wasn't done correctly, it should have addressed the issue.

 

If it's a wraped rotor, he has to get a new one, correct?

Should he just a set of OEM rotors?

 

And how do we figure out which one is warped?

 

Unless a different shop thinks it can be resurfaced again (doubtful).

Unless your coworker wants to do a performance upgrade, that's probably the best solution. However, he should put new pads on at the same time too. Old pad + new rotors = bad idea.

Have to check both front rotors at a shop. You usually can't tell visually or just by the driving characteristics. If he does one front rotor, he should probably do the pair anyway.

 

Where should he order? Any recommendation?

 

Agree with ttribe. Don't think there's anything else that could be.

Maybe it's just me. Timing chain sounds like the only thing it could be, but it was quiet when I bought it at 92K miles. Has about 135K now. It gets better when it warms up.


Skip to about 2:00

Saw it at NAIAS, I thought it looked ugly, but my friend liked it. Think it's going to be a love it or hate it car.

 

Yes, it's definitely love it or hate it type of car. Like my goofy car.

 

Can't help there; I'm not familiar with Nissan/Infiniti parts suppliers. Sorry.

 

It's all good!

Thank you very much as always.

 

I was going to ask if they had new pads installed at the same time.

Also, if the wheels arent torqued down properly (most shops use the impact gun to tighten the lug nuts ), that could lead to warped rotors as well.

 

Agreed with everything so far. To add to this, JS, tell your coworker to browse the M forums first before going with OEM.

Don't know anything about Nissan/Infiniti OEM parts, but certain year Honda OEM rotors are known to be garbage and most upgrade to aftermarket rotors after OEMs warp.

So aftermarket may be the best route to take, possibly cheaper too.

 

See? Why google when I have you guys?

 

Don't we have couple members who have Inifiniti M? I can't recall their user names.