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1993 Vigor GS 5MT Build

 
Old 01-25-2018, 02:32 AM
  #81  
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Love all of this. I'm always keeping my eye out for a Vigor. You've done a fantastic job!
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Old 01-25-2018, 05:14 PM
  #82  
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Awesome thread, love the progress!

Have you considered an NSX steering wheel? It may have the same spline count and save some headache if you try the MDX wheel. I have an NSX wheel in the Legend and love it.
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Old 01-25-2018, 09:47 PM
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1/25/18

Bought my own car insurance.
Had tags put on it.
Alignment was done.
Inspection will be done tomorrow.
I've been driving the car back and forth to work. (2 miles one way)
Car has performed flawlessly!

Still smoke pretty bad from around the exhaust headers and under the distributor. Distributor is not leaking, it is clean and dry under the cap where they leak. Valve cover also is not leaking. Residual oil burning off?

Smoke form the exhaust isn't nearly as bad. But it's hard to tell from in the car looking back behind you because of the wind turbulence makes it dissipate.

After the alignment the rear began to rub again but only over extreme bumps. Not during cornering or anything. Just pot holes and such. Seems t only be the passenger side rear. Either way I'm going somewhere else for another alignment to set the rear camber back to around -1.8 thu -2.5 degrees. I only wanted the toe adjusted in the first place but they didn't listen...

Also..! My front left wheel bearing is ruined. I must have tightened it too tight with the axle nut when I used a air gun on it for literally one second. If I remember though, these front wheel bearings were form some ebay brand and I didn't pay more than $100 for them. Not a big deal, I'll fetch some OEM $100 Honda bearings to replace the ones up front.


All in all thought, this car is a blast! I'm so used to the longer gearing in the TSX and the gutless K24 below 4,000rpm so this car being a lighter, closer ratio transmission, and with more low-end torque is night and day. I haven't gone over 5,000rpm yet so I don't know how it really feels up north but so far down south it's really, really nice. At 3,000rpm you can feel the surge of torque build. Corner exiting in 3rd gear at 2,000 rpm is a breeze with very little throttle. The car just putt-putts along.

When I left work tonight it was 35 degrees fahrenheit (summer tires!) and as I sat in the car with it idling down/ warming up from stone cold I noticed within only about a minute or two of running the temp gauge was already rising and the heater was warm! Kinda struck me as odd but hey, car doesn't overheat, or at least it doesn't say it does...

Visibility is excellent. I can see everyone and their mamma no matter which way I turn my head from inside my car.

The clutch in town is forgiving though the pick up/ grab area is in the last 25% of pedal travel.. I don't like that because my huge feet, especially with my heel toe boots on is hitting the bottom of the dash as I'm releasing the clutch. Can be adjusted!


The brakes! Haven't touched them. They work. Car stops. Wheels can lock. But the pedal feel is garbage. No actually it feels like I'm pressing on a half inflated garbage bag. The car slows down with mild travel but the pedal feel makes you think it's not doing anything. Press further and you slow down quicker (and a lot quicker than I realized) but you don't feel it. Maybe because the car has no nose dive from the suspension and the poopy pedal feed back I can't sense it like I can in the TSX which has a firm and "touchy" pedal and some nose dive.

I can see how once used to the Vigors pedal feel you can have more control over your breaking input. Even though it's much more vague (for now) it has a more linear effect with the pressure you apply. I'm sure I have air in the lines still so I'm holding out final judgement until then.


People at work really like it. One guy already asked to buy it for $2000!

Yeah so that sums it up mostly.













This car has SO much presence and stance in person, and from afar the car is authoritative and enticing. I couldn't replicate the visual appeal here with smart phone camera zoom optics but with a long lens camera it should be able to replicate. It' a "have to see it in person" thing.
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Old 01-26-2018, 07:49 AM
  #84  
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i love the 5 lug conversion... i hope you keep that car a long time... i still miss mine even though it was missing the 3rd pedal...
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Old 01-26-2018, 09:25 PM
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Old 01-27-2018, 03:17 PM
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The front end is too low! Doesn't rub or anything, it just looks like I have blown struts... I have extended top hat and a 30mm top hat spacer with extended studs on order to raise the front end and gain more strut piston travel (so I don't have to worry about bottoming out on my bump stops).











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Old 01-28-2018, 05:08 PM
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Trekked out to the junkyard today to grab a window wiper motor from a CB7 Accord for the Vigor. Same exact part numbers. Oddly enough the wipers on the Vigor are working again with the old/ original motor when I got back home to check....

Also picked up front and rear lips off of a CD5 Accord. The rear lip is a two piece design and does not match the overhang of the Vigor which is fine. The front lip is a perfect fit, as in it's oversized leaving me with plenty of adjustment. Looks like all I need to do is remove the stock Vigor lip and trim a inch or so from the Accord lip and it would be a better fit and look than the Legends.







No pics of the rear but here is another owners method:

Doesn't wrap around the bumper, but quickly slopes upward into it. Critical for the cars long wheel base and long rear overhang for clearance when crawling into steep entrances. Just enough to even the rear visually and keep things from being ripped off.



Here are pictures of a member from the early 2000s using the Accord lip but his was so much shorter (unless it was already cut like that) or maybe I didn't realize that the lip I grabbed was from a V6 with the longer front end....




Mine:








Oh and all of it was just $33!
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Old 01-28-2018, 08:14 PM
  #88  
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Haven't seen a Vigor in years. Pretty cool! The 3G TL wheels look huge on it compared to on the TL.
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Old 01-29-2018, 11:57 AM
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Engine sounds great. I think if you raise the front much, it's going to look like it has some reverse rake. Looks great as is, IMO.
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Old 02-12-2018, 08:25 PM
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I need to do something about the lacking exhaust note.

Thinking about replicating the G20a Mugen header or just copy an existing Volvo/ Audi/VW performance header design with 2.5" or 2.75" piping. Keep a mid muffler or "resonator" and go with either Magnaflow, Borla or one of my S2000 mufflers for the rear/ last muffler. Cat delete too since this car isn't emission tested.


I should probably fix my windshield wiper issue first. I tried a new motor and it still didn't work so I got a multi meter and have no voltage on the plug on any of all the settings. Checked all of the under hood and dash fuses, they were fine. All of the grounds are ok too. Relays rarely go bad but I should check them to rule them out. I'm left with the actual wire harness, the integrated control unit bolted to the back of the under dash fuse box, and the stalk switch to check still. Pretty annoying issue an dnot safe if I'm caught in a storm.

Two front new Honda OEM wheel bearings and a complete timing belt+water pump kit arrived today, they should be installed sometime Tuesday this week. Hopefully I get this car on VIR March 2nd for some cool pics!
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:26 AM
  #91  
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I love this thread for so many reasons. Keeping history alive...maintaining it properly.
Awesome.
You have an S2000?
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143 View Post
I love this thread for so many reasons. Keeping history alive...maintaining it properly.
Awesome.
You have an S2000?
No S2000 unfortunately. I looked at a 2001 with 180K miles on it last year for about $7,000 that was in pretty ok good shape for the age and mileage, but it had a crappy aftermarket intake on it and I only assumed there was more mods that got taken off before the sale, plus not having a garage for the car so for both things mentioned it was enough of a turn off for me. Didn't get the carfax bu it was an auction car so I assume it had a rough life behind it.

I would much rather have a Ap2 anyway
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Old 02-14-2018, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Timmy18 View Post
I should probably fix my windshield wiper issue first. I tried a new motor and it still didn't work so I got a multi meter and have no voltage on the plug on any of all the settings. Checked all of the under hood and dash fuses, they were fine. All of the grounds are ok too. Relays rarely go bad but I should check them to rule them out. I'm left with the actual wire harness, the integrated control unit bolted to the back of the under dash fuse box, and the stalk switch to check still. Pretty annoying issue an dnot safe if I'm caught in a storm.
check power at the stalk as well...
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Old 02-14-2018, 07:51 AM
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Definitely, man...
I sometimes consider selling my AP2 but there are some times, like last night for instance (80 miles, mostly highway...cruising with perfect weather)...where I'm like fk that, I'll never sell it.
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Old 02-14-2018, 02:20 PM
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Definitely enjoying following this progress. Love how you saved that $400 car and are giving it some much needed attention!
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Old 02-15-2018, 08:24 PM
  #96  
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love the thread. And RainX on the windshield will help until you get it figured out.
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Old 04-29-2018, 11:35 PM
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Late update. Starter died, I was stranded in my driveway. Bought new starter and alternator too because the old one was giving wonky charges at idle and caused the lights to flicker and dim so it was going out sooner or later. Installed both of them on my own. It was PITA to reinstall the mounting and adjusting bolt on the atl because of its design and the starter in general, the location, size, shape of everything, all of it made it a PITA 100% and I almost had it taken to a shop and paid a poor fool to do it. But I sucked it up and forced my hands in tiny places and it worked flawlessly though I think I pulled too many muscle both in my hand and back. Aleve is working.

Anyway... lol got the car operable again and took care of some bad hose clamps which fixed 95% of my coolant leak. Rear main is leaking a little less with a slightly thicker oil and some gasket renewal additives. Just enough that it will tied me over until I find a friendly shop who will do the unfortunate task of replacing that main seal.


Today I washed the thoroughly and took it out for some.... 7,000rpm testing. Ohhh and I played red light/ green light with the brakes!

As an early disclaimer, yes it was risky driving the car so hard for its age and leaks but I am happy to report that after half of a day of non top redline pulls and cursing the engine makes not one single new noise it made prior and the leak(s) are not worse. A lot of this was also done on some back roads which I grew up with family on. I know the roads well and they are not very busy, ever. I of course remained alert and responsible for anything I do or could have done but I wouldn't have done this anywhere I didn't feel safe like I've done in the past.


Videos coming soon!















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Old 11-12-2018, 10:02 PM
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Great save and build. I'm doing something similar with my 3.0CL that I got for $600. I've always wanted to do what you've done with a Vigor, the 5 speed is ultra rare and definitely give the car a unique driving experience from a Honda. Pretty under rated platform/car.
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Old 11-12-2018, 10:17 PM
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Been a while since I updated....

03-14-2018



'13 Civic Navi










The Vigor bezel piece will need to be trimmed just slightly near the bottom corners, otherwise it fits nice and looks pretty good just thrown into the dash.



Vigor had 10 psi below nominal, so 28psi at the rail which explains the random stalling and high rpm cutting in and out (video below). I have a new denso fuel pump that I've been too lazy to put in (plus the weather has been insane with the nor'easters) plus the tank is currently FULL....

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RaZ60MrYSjE" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Still working on finding and fixing my oil, coolant and power steering leaks. It all seems to be mainly the hoses and clamps being so old as the leaks are coming from around the clamps. Oil seems to be rear and front main seal and oil pressure sensor areas.



03-31-2018
Just replaced my drivers door and front passenger door window regulators. Drivers window kept getting stuck at random and wouldn't budge once it was stuck. Passenger side was extremely slow. I was lucky enough to find a drivers door regulator among all the rear doors and passenger front door regulators, and it works flawlessly.

I have the 1993 Acura Factory Service book hat goes over everything thing in relative detail so for my first time replacing a door regulator it went very smoothly thanks to the book.



Removed all of the door guts, used copious amounts of white lithium grease on the "new" used mechanisms in every track/ crevice I could including the window stay/ tracks. Also used some silicone spray on the front window sash where the side mirror mounts to.

Both of my windows now race up and down like a new car.

Thankfully I put t all back together right as the windows didn't need any kind of alignment or adjustment, they actually seal considerably better now.

One thing I noticed on the drivers side below the speaker where the window stay/ track bolts into the door was a separation in the metal around the fastener. I' unsure what caused this or if it's just common for these cars but I wondered if it was the culprit to the window binding and over working the motor? It's been like this for a while I assume by the rust.


Anyway, here are some pics of it just in my back yard. Nothing fancy.














I will be having the engine rebuilt very soon to replace just about every gasket and seal as I have power steering, engine oil, and coolant leaks galore. I have a huge pile of parts straight from Honda already sorted, labeled and ready to go. I just need to find a shop to do the work.


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jSdbfAt_AHY" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

05-04-2018
Even though the car just recently performed flawlessly in the videos of the back road driving, pulling to red line each time, the fuel pump still needed to be replaced as the following day the car would bog under heavy acceleration on the way back to work from my lunch break, and boy am I glad that I did so! This titanic @$$ thing looks like it was a ticking time bomb just waiting to freeze up or completely clog itself!

I'm a bit worried about my fuel tank insides and the lines and the other new fuel items I put on, wondering how much debris and rust is going through the new stuff :/ ((Oh well, I will wait for a problem to arise out of it)




Supplied the local shop with the new pump, filter/ pick up screen and a new Honda gasket and all I paid was $80 in labor! Not bad for someone having to drop the tank and all!


05-21-2018
I live about 50 minutes away. Roughly a 40 mile drive north through the countryside of NC to get from Mebane to VIR. Either 119 or 62, both well maintained roads but 62 has a tad less traffic. The vigor took the trip well! It was a comfortable drive and the car flew through the countryside at 70mph without a hiccup.


Unfortunately I still have a bad coolant hose leak and had to top off the reservoir before I left VIR to head back home. Th rear minseal seems not to leak as bad. The oil leave really hasn't dropped much if any at all and the puddle I used to leave when I park is not just a few drops! Still replacing though. As for my power steering I have NO idea where it's going, but the level keeps dropping...

When I returned home I sat in the car at idle gathering a few things before heading inside and I thought I heard a rod knock or spun bearing. Something bad. It fluctuated with revs but when I disengaged the clutch the noise went away, so relived that it's probably just the $140 pilot bearing... lol Gotta do the rear main anyway and might as well do the clutch and throw out bearing while we're in there.






07-19-2018
Had quite a large service done on the Vig today.

Gates timing belt
Honda water pump
Honda belt tensioner
Valve adjustment
Coolant leaks fixed (There were several)
Power steering leak fixed (required a new used assembly)
AC system converted to R134a


You can barely hear it idling now, the valve adjustment made a huge difference in how the engine sounds. It seems a little smoother revving up now as well. No clatter what so ever.




Extremely good people.


I'll add this to the records
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Old 11-12-2018, 10:20 PM
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And now good bye.

07-28-2018
I don't have any words. I haven't cried any tears yet. I feel numb. It happened so fast.

I'll try to keep it short. Drove it to work and back today, ran fine until I got on it and the bogging came back. I purposely kept driving it while it was bogging to see what will happen if I didn't pet my foot off the throttle, keeping it floored. After several seconds of continues bogging on and off a CEL came on!

Excited I let out of it, drove it home, all was normal. I get home, jump the OBB connector to retrieve CEL codes, nothing but a fast flashing battery light with the ignition "on". Odd. Frustrated, I went back out for another drive to replicate issue. Not even two miles away from home before I even got on it again, before it even bogged again things ended for the Vigor.

I was in 3rd gear, maybe around 5,000rpms. Was about to go to 4th gear. I heard a quick grind but that was it, barely heard it and it didn't last but a second. Engine had no power so I put it in neutral and the rpms went to 0 with the battery and CEL coming on. I waited briefly before turning the key but it didn't matter. The engine spun over like it had no compression. I coasted as far as I could and pulled into a driveway of a house under new construction.

Sat and thought about what happened. Thought about the potential oil slick I just left behind me. Thought about the cost of a tow truck. Thought about what could have happened. Decided to try and turn it over again.. I turned the key and listened to it. Sounded like no compression at all but then it locked up completely.


I checked for a oil slick, there was none. I checked oil in the engine, it was clean and topped off. Didn't look sparkly or anything. Couldn't see anything around or under the engine.

I'm fairly certain the T belt let go. Maybe the tensionor, maybe the Gates belt I supplied had a defect. Maybe they dind't replace any of the parts and only done a valve adjustment. I don't know. I do know I used all OEM parts aside from the Gates belt strictly to prevent the odds of this happening!! I supplied all the parts including the tensionor and tensioneor spring and water pump, all in a Honda bag. I have receipts and everything.

I'm shaking a little but I'm trying to stay calm. I don't want to blame anyone for this. I'm just not looking forward to dealing with the shop because I supplied the parts they have NO WARRANTY all over my receipt and I feel like I'll be blamed, accused or left out on my own or with a crazy bill. Which lets be honest, I will have another crazy bill regardless how this ends.


I guess this is a good excuse to grab a JDM 190hp G25a if I can find one... It may be safer and better off just putting in a lower mileage JDM engine than paying for this one to be rebuilt. But sending the whole car to the junkyard is also what most people think would be best.



That shop isn't open until Monday and I had the car dropped off in their lot off to the side. I hope there isn't any fee for doing that. When paying the tow truck I got charged twice at a cash points ATM which is operated by SECU. Thanks for that.




I wish you all a happy weekend. My birthday is the on the 30th, I will try to do my best!


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/z2sLLMuSNdE" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/L7F1OV80sxY" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>











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Old 11-13-2018, 06:32 AM
  #101  
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Sorry to read and you're brave, you hear issues and gun it
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Old 11-13-2018, 07:56 AM
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find a replacement motor... or even better swap a newer motor in!!!

before you junk it, message me...
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Old 11-13-2018, 09:58 AM
  #103  
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K-swap
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Old 11-13-2018, 09:58 AM
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Also, nice work with the '13 Nav unit. Was it all functional?
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Old 11-13-2018, 09:32 PM
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Don't worry guys, I'm looking for another G25a1. I looked for a JDM 190HP G25a for 3 months and had a place even look for me in Japan and they didn't find anything.... so I'm looking for another U.S G25a1 engine from a Vigor with hopefully less than 200K on them. A lot of the Vigors and 2.5TL's go beyond 200K easily so it hasn't been easy at all. The G25a4 from the 2.5TL will work but it has a few differences that need to be swapped onto it from the Vigors first.

I'm certainly not giving this car up!! haha I think I might get another after the engine swap.


As good a K would be, I can't lose this 5 cylinder song. I would have to at least go with a J series.
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Old 11-22-2018, 11:25 PM
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Damn thats a lot of work. But those vigor's still look great after all these years.
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Old 11-23-2018, 08:31 PM
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11/23/18
Engine is still blown, but I have found a replacement.

In the mean time I've been working on increasing body rigidity. I picked up a strut bar from LKQ today for $7. It's so close! The hood even closes. It's from a 2004 Acura RL and mounts to the firewall in 2 different places. The bar itself is stout and uses a thick wall oval tubular design. I could probably have it modified easily to fit. I'll consider drilling another hole in the shock tower and using 98+ Accord top hats that have the two extra studs vs these with the 3 studs.

Would be pretty cool to see how much of a difference it will make in the car which already felt really tight. I am looking at a 20mm rear sway bar and a rear strut tower brace as well.







Also bought an endoscope because I wanted to see how things looked. *it was actually 220K miles, but still.






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Old 11-24-2018, 06:40 AM
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Epic thread. Sorry to hear about the motor. Luckily, replacement on something this old shouldn’t be too expensive.
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Old 12-20-2018, 11:45 PM
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12-20-18


$800 (<i>actually only $778.54 with tax and shipping fees</i>) worth of parts for the Vigor. This time I'm leaving no stone unturned. Anything that can potentially cause a weak combustion is getting replaced along with drive line components that will be a no brainer to go ahead and replace while the engine and trans are pulled. I ordered this last Saturday and they arrived today, quicker than promised.

New Cardon Select Left and Right axles ~ $86
New Cardon Select Distributor ~ $196
M-PACT Clutch Friction Disc ~ $23 (seriously!!)
New NGK Ignition Coil ~ $73
New Airtex/Wells/WVE Fuel Injector Resistor ~ $199

Used from California PV1-A03 ECU (manual trans) ~ $36
Re-manufactured Keihin Honda Injectors (OEM/ 310cc) ~ $90


I have already purchased another Fuel Pump and strainer, a authentic Denso O2 sensor (to replace the bad idea Bosch), all of the coolant temp sensors (OEM), another set of NGK Blue wires, NGK plugs, and a whole plethora of Honda gaskets and seals from the intake manifold and valve cover down to the oil cooler and rear main seal and everything between.

I have found an engine with 83,000 miles in a warehouse 2 hours away which I will likely be purchasing after Christmas and a 60,000 mile transmission in a warehouse, also 2 hours away but conveniently in the opposite direction as the engine. The transmission is to address the 2nd gear clatter under deceleration and second gear popping out issues with rapid on/off throttle input and high-rpm lift. I plan on getting those in the car by the end of January or mid February the latest and it cannot happen soon enough!!

I'll be transferring the new starter, alternator, serp. belts, pulleys, Timing belt, water pump and tensioners and anything else I remember to the "new" engine since the components I had fitted were barely used. The old pressure plate and fly wheel will have to be re-used. I will have the flywheel surfaced and carefully check over the pressure plate for signs of weakness. The clutch felt great in the car and did not slip at the time of its death so I hope everything looks fine to reuse pressure plate wise.

I'll be keeping the header, harmonic crank balancer, cam shaft, a few valve springs and intake manifold and throttle body from my old engine to conduct some experiments with and send places for altercations <b></b> I'll also save the A/C compressor and any other component worth keeping.

On the old engine I may have the deck height measured and see if I can get one of the good cylinders mapped for valve clearance and chamber volume to help me get higher CR pistons of some sort and determine how much lift can be added theoretically. And if it's savable I might keep the old thing and use it for a future build and experimenting. Maybe slap on a new head, over bore the cylinders and run it on a stand for certain reasons with certain components.... HMMMMM.

Anyway, I have a lot of work ahead of me still but after the five month slumber I'm finally kicking back with some fresh enthusiasm.




Very small looking clutch. It's 8-7/8" in diameter.
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Old 12-21-2018, 11:58 AM
  #110  
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The mechanic adjusted your valves wrong would be my guess...just no reason for that to happen out of nowhere.
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Old 02-05-2019, 09:27 PM
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1/11/19






2/5/19






Things are finally moving, conveniently after my 30 day warranty expires.

Last edited by Timmy18; 02-05-2019 at 09:30 PM.
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Old 02-06-2019, 09:22 AM
  #112  
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Cool! Can't wait to see it back on the road again.
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Old 02-06-2019, 09:42 AM
  #113  
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In a situation like this, I feel like a non-enthusiast would have sent it off to the junkyard.

I love seeing threads like this. Props for saving it!
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Old 02-06-2019, 10:49 AM
  #114  
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Saw the first pic & thought you'd junked it.
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Old 02-06-2019, 02:51 PM
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Just read through your thread. Very cool restoration on the Vigor. Sorry to see you lost the motor but happy you decided to find a replacement instead of junking it.
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Old 02-11-2019, 09:59 PM
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No way this car is being let go of. I'm too stubborn.

But this whole shop experience has been complete SHIT.

Gah, lets see.

1/14, car was brought to shop #1.

1/16, car was moved to shop #2 (Shop 1 was shut down by Fire Marshall)

1/16, shop #2 tells me if car was delivered by Thursday or Friday (17 or 18th) they could have it ready by the following Friday or Tuesday the latest (25th/ 29th)

1/24, I inquire about car. No progress, have not touched it. I become infuriated. Explain engine warranty expires on the 2-5-19 and something needs to be done. They assure it will get started on by the following Monday.

I remain patient.

2/5, shop has fly wheel ready for resurfacing. I have it resurfaced. Shop tells me "ready by Friday".

2/8, I call shop, shop does not answer. I leave voice mail asking about my car. Never got a phone call back.

2/11, I have a missed call, a voicmail from the shop. Asking to bring in a intake manifold gasket. ((?????why)

I bring in the manifold gasket (hoarder) and ask we it is needed, then I see why. They removed the 112K mile manifold from the 112K mile engine and were in the process of installing my 223k mile, metal debris contaminated manifold to the new engine.


I'm standing there with my box of Honda parts and ask why they had swapped the manifolds. "To reinstall your starter, sir".

I explain that 1, it didn't need to be removed to install the starter, especially while out of the car, and 2, that manifold is full of metal debris due to intake vacuum after cylinder 2's intake valve head obliterated the piston.

Their response? "Oh don't worry, I cleaned it out!"

My response? opens camera, films inside the manifold. And once I stopped recording he HEARD IT FROM ME.


I got pretty aggressive but not mental. Definitely enough to get his attention to understand the severity of what was going on. While making him look into the manifold I explained to him how that would have ruined the valve seats and scored the cylinder walls on my new engine.

He was shitting himself, couldn't find any words to explain himself but admitted he was sorry. Yay? That makes it ok right, all because I caught your fuck up? Yeah? No.

So I tell him to remove that shit, and get my good manifold out and back on the engine it was removed from. WHERE DOES HE GO? OUTSIDE. TO A PILE. OF. USED. ENGINE. JUNK. And picks my manifold up off the top and pours rain water out of it. Brings it into the shop and proceeds to blow the water out with an air hose.


At this point I am removing my old manifold myself, putting it to the side and helping him hold the good one while he blows it out. The whole time I'm asking myself what kind of payment he's going to dare demand after this is finally over.


We get that manifold cleaned up and the old gasket off and ready to install. I ask about the other work I requested done while looking all over the engine myself. The T belt, water pump, rear main seal, new clutch disc, thermostat, sensors, fluids, hose clamps etc. Everything I gave him a bullet point list of when I dropped the car and parts off. He assures me it was all done. Really not sure how I am feeling about his word.

I'll for sure take the car to an Acura dealer and have it looked over if they get this thing finished without killing it on the first start up.





Ya'll. Pray for me and this damn car or something. We needing it....

INCORRECT manifold being removed after I found the issue.
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Old 02-12-2019, 09:20 AM
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Unreal.
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Old 02-13-2019, 10:42 PM
  #118  
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2-13-18

She's home!

The bill was a lot more than I expected, but I had to bring it home to continue my mission.


Pictures of my car, now back in my possesion is great running order and my brothers Mustang. Ignore his front bumper damage. He hit a skunk and lost a foglight.


[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7843/32146915917_ae233e6ab3_o.jpg[/img






Impressions:

"New" 112K mile engine runs butter smooth, does not smoke or leak. They proved they did all of my requested services by keeping all of the old items they removed and putting them in the car (fine by me, the interior is DONE anyway). I am a lot more at ease now. Especially knowing the engine is fine.

The "new" 60K mile transmission is a tad bit notchy but it's getting better, especially once it warms up. Trying to remember that it sat 13+ years in a VA warehouse. It currently has fresh 10w40 engine oil in it but I'll be replacing that with some Honda MTF to see if it helps improve the shift feel. The BEST thing about the new trans is that it does not pop out of gear ever unlike my old one would with any sudden throttle input or sharp cornering. It also no longer has that mysterious "clacking" under deceleration. The clutch grabs so much better now too.

Overall workmanship: Ignored the manifold oopsie (not forgiven) the quality of work is actually pretty damn good. He put everything exactly back where it goes and put brackets and nuts+washers where they belong. I didn't expect it to be that well buttoned up.


Now for some concerns. I still have the 5,000+ rpm bogging out issue. I will remove the catalytic converter, replace the ECU, Fuel Injector Resistor pack and ignition coil and retest. My friend is lending me his wideband oxygen sensor off his Integra so I can monitor my fuel to air ratio, I just have to get a bung welded onto the pipe somewhere so I can mount it. I suspect a intermittent fuel pressure issue but finding why or if hasn't proved easy. I noticed the coolant reservoir is slowly going down. I believe the coolant system is just leveling out but will keep an eye on it. There aren't any leaks under or around the car and there are no signs of an internal head gasket leak... yet. Had a very small amount of yellow/ milky oil residue under the oil cap but I cleaned it off, drove about 30 miles and it hasn't came back, oil in the block is clean as a whistle, so probably no issue there. Coolant doesn't have any bubbles in it either.


Trying to get the windshield wipers back working sometime this week I hope. I'm due for an inspection by the end of the month, soooo yeah.
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Old 02-14-2019, 08:46 AM
  #119  
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glad to see you are plowing through with this. keep it up and stay positive...
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Old 02-14-2019, 09:49 PM
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Drove around for an hour after work, just normal easy driving and had no issues. No funky idling, no bogging really or anything*. Drove by and stopped at a new restaurant that opened a few months back and have been noticing this 2nd gen Integra GS is always there.

I had to be a creeper and ride by to get a pick of the cars together. Sue me! lol I had to seize the opportunity.






If I ever were to unfortunately rear-end someone while in the Vigor I'd likely scoop them up over my car like a ramp!



*Ok so I did notice while on the hwy, at around 70mph or so with a steady foot and with flat road it felt like the car was maybe loosing power but if I moved the throttle any, it seemed to be normal. Could just be paranoid. Not sure.

Also while in town I have noticed a "hissing" or very very faint grinding noise from the trans, mainly in 2nd and 5th gear. I wonder if that shop put new oil in it or if the oil I selected should be swapped immediately with some Honda MTF? May have Acura do that tomorrow for me. Kinda concerning. Shifting still feels about the same, a little more notchy than my old trans but it is staying in gear at least.
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