richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I'm not saying I dont beleive you.Hell I want to beleive you.It will make my life much easyier.I actually left a message on there phone friday about the maxxlink.This can only link pairs,is that right.Theres 2 videos on youtube about installing.I was able to watch the 2nd part,but the 1st part was not loading correctly for me.

mattastick

The Maxxlink allows you to link up to 4 amps at one time. So if you wanted to pick up a couple more of those amps you have, you could run 1 to each coil and grab something else down the road for the 12s. Your call though, but like I said, I'd run 1 big amp on the XXX...

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

So are you telling me I can take 2,3,4,of the amps like I got and make them produce 3200,4800,6400w like mono amplification?

mattastick

Pretty much... But again, like I said, I would look for a larger single amp, rather than 3-4 amps like you have now...

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Think I'm gonna try out the maxxlink.I'll probally call them again tommorrow for some more info.before I make a soild choice.again thanks for your help

on1wheel01

that would be the best way. please dont hook one amp to each coil bad things can happen

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I almost bought the maxxlink from some clown on caco that told me he would not ship it for a least a week cuz he was going on vacation.So then I just ordered the maxxlink new.I talked to mike and he says this is what I'm looking for. I've looked at the pdf manual and it shows that it can bridge 2 amps without the master/slave function.It just dont show if it doubles amp power or if impedance rises when bridging.I know when strapping amps it does.I forgot to ask when I had him on the phone and dont want to be a PITA keep calling the man.So I guess I'll just try it out.

mattastick

Who'd you talk to at Maxxonics? And call them back... They'd much rather have another question asking about the power output rather than a call saying "I just hooked it up and smoke started pouring out of the amps"

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I talk to mike and he said it can be done with the 2 amps and then with 4 if I choose later down the road. Check the manual page 4-5 for 2 mono amps without master/slave function.Let me know what you think.Or am I incorrect.
http://www.maxxsonics.net/manuals/hi...0%20Manual.pdf

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

My sub just showed up.All I can say is holy s!@#. This thing has a massive motor.

mattastick

Mike's a cool dude. I've talked to him a couple times at a couple different shows. He's knows his stuff, so I'd listen to him...

Any idea what you're going to do for an enclosure for this beast?

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

No idea on the enclosure.I want to keep the box in the seat because it looks cool and it cost a little bit to do.I do want it to atleast have the port blow directly into the cabin some how,but the most powerful way possible.Open to good idea's....

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Here a pic of her phat ass.
It's hard to tell how massive it is in a pic.

mattastick

Go take pics from the trunk looking forward, and the rear seat looking backwards. I don't think I've seen full pics of your seat finished... That would help me get some ideas.

How big's the screen on the computer? It looks to be at least 12-14", so that should provide a decent reference...

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I'll take a couple of pics.The screen it self is 14"

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Sub got striped.just need to clean it up and it'sready for the recone.

here a pic of the back seat before lining it up beter.

and this is a pic from the trunk,dont mind the mess I just riped everything out and it will be cleaned up again when I figure out what I'm going to do with the 15
just about the whole under side of the deck is open from the box in front.

mattastick

Willing to cut the hell outta your rear deck? That's the only way I see you getting enough port area for that 15, while keeping your back seat the way it is...

If you're willing to pull the box out of the rear seats, you could easily get loud as hell, but I know you don't want to do that...

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

hey matt,what do you think about this.I have a 18 sealed box that has 3.5 cu.ft and it slanted front. Its 25" deepon the botom 16" deep on the top 16.5" tall,and 22" wide.I was thinking of putting the flat back right against the other box.Ass out on the sub to keep all 3.5 in the box,and also to show it off.Then for the port,make the port outsidethe box to again keep the 3.5 and hope it can be tuned the way I want and also make it threw the back deck.What you think about that.min cu.ft.on the sub is 3.0. and I'm going to put a 1" think plate on the face for strenth and maybe pick up some cu.inches

mattastick

I wouldn't do that personally. If anything, I'd do a 4th order of some sort (not sure how it'll model up, I've been busy playing with audacity trying to make some demo music) and port it through the rear deck. That way you're not wasting sound in the trunk, plus it shouldn't rattle your rear deck at all...

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Today I unsoldered the rest of the tensile leads cleaning up the terminals.They are ready for the new leads.All I have to do is clean the surround seat and spider seat.I will have plenty of time cuz soundstream said its going to take 5-7 day for the recone kit to arrive.I guess thats why its $15 shipping to everyone.
Well matt I dont have any clue about 4th orders,and if you do and know how to do the calculating,help me out.I dont have a problem with power tools.

on1wheel01

from what i hear those are very very hard to design. I would personally pay someone from caco or ca.com if they are designed 100% correct they slam if not right on it's a disaster.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Witch 4th order style would be best for what I'm trying to do?

Fourth Order / Bass Reflex & Bandpass Enclosures
• Fourth Order / Bass Reflex
• Isobaric - Bass Reflex
• Isobaric - Bass Reflex (Compound Loading)
• Bass Reflex - Passive Radiator
• Isobaric Bass Reflex - Passive Radiator
• Single Reflex - Band Pass
• Isobaric Single Reflex Bandpass
• Three Chamber Single Reflex Bandpass
• Isobaric Three Chamber Single Reflex Bandpass

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I dont understand why they are 4th order box,they look like regular ported boxes.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

The 6th and 8th order boxes look like they might be a little difficult.And seem like if has a lot of output that would be some thing to try porting threw the back deck

mattastick

I don't think anyone has figured out an 8th order yet... It might be a 10th order that they're still working on, I dunno. A 4th order has a sealed chamber on one side and a ported chamber on the other. You can talk to quite a few people on caco for designs (wenn, iamsonic, iamamp3pimp, etc). I can help you, but mine never turn out right on the computer, so I'd be very hesitant about building one. Talk to those guys, they're pros...

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

sneak peek ,sound stream sent me a splx dust cover insted of the xxx thats cool I guess.For those that dont know its a xxx by looking at the surround they will be in surprised by the output this sub is capable of.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Just won a second one from the bay,The system is about to get violent.

mattastick

Please tell me that you're actually going to pull the 12s now... And you're definitely going to want to get a nice sized alt (250-300A+) and several batts. Probably going to need suspension upgrades (at least stiffer springs, but coilovers would work better) and you're going to be spending a pretty penny in both wire and batteries... And that cost doesn't even include an amp to power them... Have fun with the huge build though. I wanna see pics

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I'm gonna try to get everything needed.What type of #'s can 2 of these things put down if everything is right? I just told a friend I'm gonna have 2 of these and he said I should try bass racing with these.I dont know anything about comps,how they work,what classes there are.does it go by power/subs or what. And matt you talk about being in and around that stuff.Tell me whats up.

mattastick

They could do very well, but it'll really depend on power, electrical support, box, etc. I'd guess you should be able to pull a low to mid 50's burp out of the 2 in a wall on about 9kw... Maybe more, I dunno.

Comps are broken down into 3 main "organizations".

1 is USACi. I don't know anything about it, never ran it, but I will on Saturday. From what I know though, they separate classes by how much power your amps are rated to put out at 4 ohms. Other than that, I have no idea...

2. DBdrag. This is a burp competition. Play 0db test tones at whatever frequency is loudest. Solo qualifying, and top 16 make brackets at finals anyway, most other comps, it's only top 8 that make brackets. You run heads up, and have 30 seconds to do your burp. All runs are sealed up with the mic on the dashboard. The loudest of the 2 competitors in each run moves on to the next round. Keep going till you're down to 2 people left, and the loudest of those 2 wins the class.

Classes are broken down like this: Street stock, street, super street, extreme.

Class breakdowns:
Street Stock: stamped baskets, 2.5" coils on your subs, you get either 1 15, 2 12s, 3 10s, or 4 8s for subs. Commercially available, no more than 2kw rated (and they're talking about clamping) power. This is the quietest class with the current world record at 147.7db. A guy locally to me did a 147.4db in his explorer, and I have a feeling he'll be back out and louder this weekend.

Street: Broken down into Street A, B, and C depending on subs, amps, and batteries. These are all No wall classes. Street Max is a wall class, but with 1 battery. All classes have a maximum voltage of 14v. The car is turned off for these runs.
- Street A: 1 group 27 battery in stock location. 1 12, 2 10s, or 3 8s for subs. 1 amp.
- Street B: 1 group 31 battery in stock location. 1 15, 2 12s, 3 10s, or 4 8s for subs, 2 amps.
- Street C: 2 group 31 batteries, 1 in stock location, 1 elsewhere. 1 18, 2 15s, 3 12s, 4 10s, or 5 8s. can't remember how many amps though, probably 2 or 4.
- Street Max: 1 group 31 battery in stock location. Full wall, anything goes behind the B-pillar.

Super Street: Starting with No Wall, then 1-2, 3-4, and 5+, depending on how tall your box is and the number of subs you run. All of these classes are capped at 18v. Car is on for these.
- No Wall: Unlimited subs, unlimited amps, unlimited batteries. Everything must be behind the B-pillar and below the lowest point of any window on the car.
- SS 1-2: 1 or 2 subs, full walls allowed. Again, anything goes behind the B-pillar, but this time, the enclosure can go all the way to the top of the car, allowing for more space in the box, and less air to pressurize, thus making it (generally) easier to get louder.
- SS 3-4: 3-4 subs, full walls. Same rules as SS 1-2, but you get 3-4 subs.
- SS 5+: Same as SS 3-4, but with 5 or more subs. As many as you can fit, it doesn't matter.

Extreme: Stupid loud class, where most enclosures are made of concrete and glass is 3" thick bullet proof glass. These cars are not drivable except between the trailer and the lanes. Hell, the Extreme 1 van I saw was barely able to make it back up on the trailer. This class is broken into Extreme 1 and Extreme 2+, again determined by the number of subs you run.

Bassrace: This is where the fun is at IMO. Gear doesn't matter, it's all about playing music (song of your choice) for 30 seconds, and trying to hit a certain number at the end of the run. FYI to anyone thinking about bassracing, the start is crucial. If you don't get a good start, you better have plenty of headroom to make it back up... Classes are broken down into 120-129.9, 130-139.9, 140-149.9, 150-159.9. I run the 129 class, since it's the most fun, and fullest class around here. Up in Chicago/IL/WI area, the 39.9 class is the biggest, with 3-4 world class competitors coming from there... The rules in this class really stem from the tiebreakers. The first run is cars on, both people can be inside the car. 2nd run is the same way. If you get to a third run, you turn the cars off. If you get to a 4th run, you turn the cars off (after some time to restart and charge them) and get out of the car. 5th run (although however unlikely) leave the cars off, and stay outside the cars. Runs keep going like this until someone gets closer to the perfect 1x9.9 score than the other person without going over. At 1 show recently, there were 12 ties (13 runs) before someone won in the 39.9 class. This past weekend, I saw 4 runs (3 ties) in the same class. Like I said, world class competition in the 39.9 class coming from the Midwest...

If I forgot anything, or anyone has any questions/fixes, let me know... I typed that while eating dinner, so I may have missed something, or screwed something up...

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

First off holy S!@# man,I and did'nt even think you were responding,then responding Like the man who oridgenated the sport.Thanks for the info I will be looking back to this as a guide I'm sure.

What class Bass race should I being trying for if I have the 2 in the back seat like I have the 12's?
You should make a thred with this info/sticky

mattastick

That was just a quick response while I was eating dinner. And I've only been in the competition stuff since the beginning of summer, so I'm still a noob, and by no means an expert compared to some of the guys that have been doing this for 10+ years.

I honestly don't think you'll get enough airspace for these 2 15s out of your trunk. I think your best bet will be either a 1/2 wall (like Pioneer~Saturn) or a full wall. Fill your trunk with amps/batteries (more of the 2nd, less of the primer) and go nuts. With that setup, I'd think you'd be able to do 49.9, assuming you have enough power and battery backup. I know Doug (Pioneer~Saturn) is planning on running 49.9 sometime soon, and he's going to be running 2 Sundown 4500's and like 5-6 D3100s, with both of his alts running (around 550A of output). If you can get similar power, and electrical you should be good... Now, if you go with a full wall, you probably won't need as much power, and you'll probably have a much larger port, but just a heads up...

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I can get 10 cubes and room for 2 batterys. Recomended spl enclosure is 4.5cu.ft.and min.is 3.0cu.ft.So 6-9 I should be fine.
I think I'll probally try building something that will be 3.75 per sub after all displacement.To save room for amps,batterys,nitrous bottle.
I dont know what these subs like getting tuned to ?

mattastick

Since you don't know the kind of electrical you're going to need to support this type of power (face it, you've never done a big setup. Neither have I, but at least I know what's needed for one) I'd go with a bigger enclosure, so that theoretically, you need less power to get louder. Also, a box that big is going to have to be very well braced, and probably 2 layers thick around the outside. That's going to add weight. Might as well kiss your nitrous bottle good-bye. It ain't going to help when you're towing around 600+lbs of stereo... Hate to tell you dude, but you either get speed or spl, not both...

The recommended specs should have a port area and length. You can use a calculator like the one on the12volt.com to back figure what the suggested tuning is. I have a feeling it's going to be really high, since most of the time getting louder, generally means raising tuning. I have WinISD and could probably model something up for you, but I probably wouldn't do it for free. It wouldn't cost much, just looking for a little compensation for my time. But I could design you a pretty sick enclosure, I do believe. It'd all depend on how much volume you're willing to give up though... Like I said, I'd go full wall with these and about 8-9kw. Should get damn loud, leave plenty of room in your whole trunk for batts and a couple big amps, and would get damn loud daily, assuming you also step up and buy a big alternator to charge those numerous batts... Your call though

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I know how to make enclosures well enough thanks.I've talked to a couple of people that are running xxx's and they say tune 34-36hz.I have'nt bothered even doing any measuring yet since I'm still deciding on placement.
anyway,when soundstream sent me the first recone they had splx dust covers so thats what they gave me.I call and asked about the xxx caps and said thats all they have and if I need a extra to match one I had they would send it.I said cool I'll take one since I do have another.
Well it just arrived and there was 3 extras.I say they're difinitly a dedicated company with excellent customer service.

mattastick

Making and designing are 2 different things, especially when it's this big...

And SS is a decent company, too bad their big amps are such current hogs... And the amps cost a fortune... I'll put it this way, with team pricing, you can buy 4 of the XXX-6500's for the team price of the XXX-15000... Not a very good deal there, if you ask me...

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Got the 2nd XXX 15 today. This one dont need a recone like I thought.It has a couple of scuffs on the surround,no big deal.A dented dust cap,and have a new larger cap that will cover the old,but the basket has a 5" crack along the mounting ring.So its gonna to cost something to get the basket welded and a new gasket to make it look nice. I dont have to seperate any thing to fix it so I'll definitly still be way ahead fixing it up this one. I payed $190 shipped
I have'nt clean it up yet


careless people. I actually beleive this happened thew the mail. Because it showed up in a box heavly damaged to poor packing.But I planed on spending a little to get a lot in the first place ,owell.

mattastick

I'd talk to SoundStream about a complete recone with a new basket. You don't know how hard that one was beat on, and judging by how poorly it was packaged (and handled) it probably wasn't treated with any kind of care. And if you heat up metal enough to weld it, you're going to deform it :fyi: So then you're probably going to need a recone anyway...

Also, any ideas on enclosure or power for these beasts yet?

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I'm going to see what can be done in the welding,then try something other things. But I do think it can be done if someone dont try to weld the whole thing all at once and take a little time. sound stream is out of recones right now.so I'm trying to not get the recone,I havent tested the coils with a dmm yet but I wire all coils together for a 4ohm load and try to power it with my house stereo that puts out like 75 w to each sub channel.I played it with one channel.It just barely was moving but it sounded like there was not enough power to even bother trying to run it with the radio on full blast.My 6" subs get louder.They need some serious power I think.They definitly no burnt coils no coils rubbing but,like you said how know how hhard it was run.Could've been botomed out and I wont be able to tell till I put some power on it.

I want to make a forward fire and forward port box,so I can get crazy loud. I was thinking of taking out the 12 box and pushing the 15 box right up as close as I can.put the 2 amps I have for now in front on them laying down left to right,for now till I can get some thing huge to go there in the place of both amps then dress it up going into the trunk so it looks nice and maybe drop some red glow from the back deck down on everything.far as power I would love to have a cactus 7k. 2nd choice would be a xxv hifonics sampson. Its going to take a little bit till I can really make something big happen.I been pricing things and it looks like about $2000+ for amp,alt,batts.

mattastick

Are you talking about putting these in your trunk? There's no way in hell you'll get a decent box design out of your trunk. Just a heads up. You didn't listen to me before, and then you saw I was right, I wouldn't make the same mistake twice if I were you...

Also, I think you're a little low on your electrical & amps budget, especially for something this big. My new alt+2 batts (for bassrace support, longevity more than instantaneous need) are going to be about $1200... And that's a 175A alt that does 125A at idle and is externally regulated. So you're talking about an amp that does 6-7kw for $800? Sign me up (if I needed an amp that big, that is). Plus you're going to need more electrical than I'm getting to support it on a daily basis... I'd guess you could get just wire+alt+batts for $2k. Then a good amp is going to be another 1200-1500... So, maybe $3500 or so for decent stuff. Although, I'm going with new prices, since I don't like to trust used goods much, unless I know who's used them personally. You can find better deals out there on both caco and ca.com.