whoopidoo

Hi all -

I just had my amp upgraded to a JL Audio A6450. So as I understand it, I'm getting about 150 watts to my sub.

I currently have a JL PowerWedge single 10" W1, and would like to upgrade. With the sensitivity turned up on the amp, this sub is actually OK for my tastes, but as I understand it from my installer this would not be recommended due to possibly damaging the sub, so I have it back down to a "reasonable" level. This amp sounds MUCH better than the Infinity I had before, and has a lot more flexibility and power than I had in the past, so, I'm looking to upgrade my sub.

I am VERY limited on the amount of space I am willing to sacrifice. This car is also used as the family truckster, so the reasoning behind the PowerWedge was the small space saving design, as well as the ability to easily remove it from the car if needed for trips, etc. Thankfully, I've never had to completely remove it, but I have been really close more than once.

So, with 150ish watts power, any recommedations? I was looking at a 10"W3, but I'm not sure if I would be underpowered, or if that would give me the additional volume I am looking for. Solobarics ?

I should also note that additional amps would not be an option due to budget.

Thanks folks - and my apologies for the newbie questions.

dizzy1

I have the same amp(e6450, they just changed the outside body of the amp) and its 150watts at 12v and 220 at 14.5v. I would be shocked if you voltage ever dropped to 12volts unless you have a trunk of amps so you likely in the 200watt range. I remember their was an online car stereo test at with all 6 channels bridged the amp at 14.5 volts pumped out around 300watts X3, way over the rated specs on the amp. Jl underates their amps. So honestly if you get a sub that can be wired up to 4ohms I would guess you'd be getting around a good 250 watts to it cleanly. I bridged channels 5+6 to a single 12w3v2 dual 2 ohm coils running and it is a perfect balance and the sub hits hard. If your looking to shake your neighbors house or be heard 4 blocks away, then you need a dedicated sub amp like a 1000/1. What car is this in? You mentioned you needed the trunk, then go fiberglass in the rear corner if you have the space in the corner. I have 2 kids and also do RC racing and I can fit 2 huge tool boxes, table chair and cars in the trunk no problem. You just have to be creative. If you have the space, bump up to a 12w3v2 or v3 and you'll be very happy with bass.

whoopidoo

Thanks for the reply!

This is in an 02 TL-S. I'm definitely not looking to shake the neighbors house, or at least I should say - that isn't my goal. My goal is to be able to hear ALL of the music, with much-better-than-average sound, for a decent budget that won't eliminate the functionality of my trunk. And if I get in the mood I want to be able to play around with some thumpy tunes, and enjoy them as best I can for a 35 year old wanna-be-hipster. While I would love when I win the lottery to be able to drop several grand into a custom system.....not in the cards for now.

I'm actually surprised you are running the 12W3 on this amp. My installer at Tweeter tended to indicate that was probably too heavy of a sub for this amp to "move" well, and that I would need more power. So you are running this with no problems at all - that's good to hear. Do you happen to have a pic or dimensions of the box that you are using ?

Thanks for the reply - much appreciated.

elduderino

Tweeter installers are not that sharp.

If the system sounded good to you when it was tuned to sound good, and you weren't hearing any noises from the sub, then there's no need to change subs from a durability POV. You should only worry about hurting a sub if you are overpowering it - you have 150W on a 150W sub. What's the problem?

So what exactly are you looking to change sonically?

whoopidoo

Thanks again for the reply.

Supposedly, this particular individual (and ONLY this particular individual) is the best installer in Charlotte. He had a 2 week waiting list, even though other installers at the same shop were free. I got recommendations for him from other companies - two friends and a guy at Freeman's. Freeman's actually sent me to Tweeter for this guy a couple of years ago, back when I was thinking about doing some custom fiberglass for a sub enclosure to keep the size down.....ended up being too expensive. So I went back to him this weekend to replace the amp. Some of the pictures of his custom work are amazing.

With that said, I was with you on the 150W to 150W - what's the problem? Seems simple enough.

My guess is the thought that I am actually pushing more than 150W as dizzy suggested that concerned the installer. Lets say the input sensitivity is a clock........installer had it set to 6 o'clock. From reading the manual I understand you are supposed to set the sensitivity based on the target output voltage - perhaps this is what he was indicating. I pushed it to about 9:30....and the volume and the "depth"(?) of the bass was just where I wanted it. Another 1/3 turn on the screw and the sensitivity would have been at max - I have to presume this is a bad idea.

Once at mid-volume I had a significant thump that wasn't there before, and at high volume with the right music I could feel it in my chest. For the first time in two years I felt I was hearing ALL of the music, and not just a watered down version. It made me grin like a kid. This is what I want all the time.

As for noise from the sub......no, I didn't hear anything. To be honest though I'm not sure I would know what it would sound like if it was being overdriven, unless it was clipping.

Thanks for the feedback again - sorry for the newb questions.

dizzy1

Here is the thread for my box and amp.
https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/another-tsx-fiberglass-box-amp-pics-334601/
I believe the box was around 1 cu. ft. Sounds great, keeps up with the real heavy metal and booms nicely with rap. Very please with the sub and amp. Let me know if you have any other questions.