defjukie

I'm looking to install a 4 channel amp to take care of mids and highs.

I've done a lot of research and have decided than an amp with High-level inputs is probably my best bet. I see that splicing RCAs to the output of the factory HU has left a lot of people with various noise problems.

So here is my questions, it's a simple one:

Can it definitively be said that the factory amp outputs a full-range signal to the front door speakers??
I know there is a some kind of crossover inside the factory amp that sends a filtered signal to the tweeters. So, does that mean the highs are filtered OUT of the front door speakers?

In other words, if I take the factory amp's speaker outputs for FRONT + REAR DOORS and run them to my aftermarket amp's high level inputs, I should be getting a comlpetely unfiltered sigal, right?


Please let me know if anyone's done testing and can confirm.

Thanks!

CJams

I heard that the door outputs filter out the subs so you should use the 6x9 wires for sub channels. But I think the doors output mostly full range. Sorry, that's the best I can do for now. I'm sure you someone else will show up and give you more input.

defjukie

thanks, that's a good start!

I should clarify that I'm really more concerned with the FRONT DOOR speaker outputs. I'll be hooking up components up there (to the new amp) and want to make sure I get the full range out of them.

Reach

Uh, are you talking about taking thefactory amp's OUTPUT and using that as the INPUT to another amp? I believe that is a no-no. You should find a way to get an isolated lineout signal from the headunit. If you go double amp you'll get more noise and god knows what else. Once again I'll defer to a more experienced voice whenever one chooses to chime in.

defjukie

yes, that is what I am talking about.

I am choosing to go this route because, at this point, getting a *clean* signal from the lineout coming from the HU seems like a crapshoot. A lot of people are getting all kinds of interference and alternator whine going that route.

I do realize that by taking the factory amp's outputs, I am adding an extra unnecessary stage of sound processing (and addition of distortion, and such) but feel that this is a better alternative than splicing in RCAs at the HU's output.

Basically I don't want to go through the cutting/splicing of the RCAs (and hacking up my harness) just to find out I have a noise problem I can't get rid of. The high-level route seems safer, even if not as *pure* sound-wise.

is this reasonable reasoning? or will it sound really bad? can anyone that has actually done this comment?

Thanks

CJams

Pure genius!!!

I should have done this myself before deferring to a "more experienced" (so to speak) voice. The OEM amp output is only like 18watts per channel. Thats no more than any other HU you would be adding LOC's to.

I think it was solaris that converted back to the OEM amp and added LOC's to the 4 door outputs. I think he then used the 6x9 lines for sub LOC's.

Whatever you do, DONT CUT YOUR HU WIRES!!! There is pretty much a 95% chance you will be unhappy with it.

CJams

defjukie,

If this makes you feel any better....you are going to have to cut those same OEM amp output wires even if you want to use the noisey rca hu splice technique anyway. If you don't like the way it sounds using the OEM amp outputs with LOCs you can always cut more wires and add rca's to the hu. It's easier to cut more wires then it is to resolder your wire harness back together.

elduderino

WTF?

I've installed amps on the HU wires like half a dozen times. Your 95% is smoking crack. I don't have problems doing it, and I will happily do it for any forum member with a 100% money back guarantee.

elduderino

The front door speakers play all the HIGHS... but the do NOT play all the LOWS. They have a high passed signal.

So do the rear doors.

Sergeremi, Joerockt, acuradog, jiggaman, musicbox, and myself all did HU-to-aftermarket-amp conversions. This new thing about "it can't be done" is odd - it's been done lots of times.

Where are you?

elduderino

You know what, Cjams? Here's my offer.

You drive down here and give me your keys. I will get rid of your noise for FREE. Just give me a Saturday with your car. Go to Powells and Everyday Music, and shop with no sales tax

No charge on whatever it takes to get it handled. On the house.

CJams

Tempting! Very tempting!

defjukie

thanks for all the input guys.

unfortunately, I'm on the east coast.

Basically, I'm kind of torn between the two right now. I've been doing car audio for almost 10 years now, so I know a little about it. When I first read eldude's post on the HU's low level outputs, it all seemed correct and made perfect sense. I was very happy that this was gonna so easy. But that thread goes downhill pretty fast with the complaints, etc.

I guess it's the old internet addage that you never hear from the people that don't have anything to complain about.


My only hangup is that I'm having this install done at a shop, solely because I don't want to take the whole car apart to run cables(i've definitely effed some cars up doing this in my day). So if I take it there, I want it done right and not have to go back and (probably) get charged again.

If I've got the pages I need from the Haynes Manual, is it hard to get to the factory amp, and also route all the wiring?? Are clips gonna break/fly out on me?

BTW, my amp gets here this week and I'll probably have this done this weekend. At this point, I think I'm gonna go the RCA route. I'll be sure to update w/pics and results (yes, even if it sounds GOOD).


anyways, props to eldude for taking the time to analyze the system for us.
I might come knockin' for one of those fiberglass enclosures someday soon!

elduderino

sergermi's install shop, Audionuts in Ocala Fla, said that this was the best OEM HU they've ever heard...

jlukja

Do it CJams. You'll get a noise problem fixed, your difference of opinion with eldude will be resoved one way or another, and you can talk shop about sub boxes.

CJams

Seriuosly thinking about it. Thats a long drive though. Will most likely convert my system back on my own if I don't take him up on the offer. It's not just a noise issue. There's also a turn on pop issue and a balance and fade issue when taking that route to add rca's. Only a few will admit to it. I myself was in denial about all of the problems involved in it. From the day I added RCA's I questioned the setup. Been installing and building systems for 17yrs now. Yep, im gettin old, but I have physically been the one installing them and building them. It's not my main source of income since it's more of a hobby. I do it for the fun, not the money. So this aint my first roa deyo!

Now that I have a retail location for my window tint shop in Fife, WA, ...once the tint and vehicle graphics get rolling i'm going to consider adding stereos to the vehicle accesories side of the house. Then I may rely a little bit on the stereo side for income for the first time in my life. But it's still just an "if."

As far as the adding rca's to the HU issue goes, I would like to ask members that have done this 3 questions:
1. Do you have "Turn on pop" or did you until you added a device such as a "trun on pop widget?"

2. Do you have noise like a high pitch whine? OR did you untill you added a device such as a GLI or something along those lines or did you even have to turn your gains on your amp super low to get rid of it? Also let me know if your gains are just set low in general.

3. With your stereo on playing at a volume of 12-15 open all 4 doors of your TSX, Fade the audio all the way to the front, then balance it all the way to the left. Once you have the sound directed to the front drivers side of the vehicle put your ear up to each of the other 3 door speakers to see if sound is still bleeding through those particular speakers. Because it shouldn't be.

These are the 3 main issues I have had to deal with by adding RCA's directly to the HU.

If you have had any of these problems and don't feel like posting your response here in a public forum, please pm me to let me know. I promise not to put you on blast. I just want to mak sure (Not that i'm not already) more members have these problems.

Thx!

Solaris94

CJams,

To answer your questions:

1. No, I didn't have a "turn on pop". But I have intermitten snaps that make me jump out of my skin.

2. Yes, I had all kinds of noise, whine, etc. until I added the GLI's.

3. Yes, I had sound bleeded through the other speakers, until I checked my GLIs and found out that the ground was touching the negative signal (poorpworkmanship). I isolated the all the signals to the GLI from one another and there was no more sound pleading.

Solaris.

Zasker1

If I was not so far from Portland I would drive over, but for now your a 1200 mile drive Edude

Spoon

1. No, no pop. But, I've always used a relay on turn-on leads, because I run multiple amps and don't want to risk overdraw. Unnecessary, maybe, maybe, but peace of mind.

2. Yes, initially. But a GLI and a line driver, both separately, rectified the problem.

3. No, no bleed.





Now, before you fly off the handle and accuse me of being an El Duderino apologist , this information applies pre aftermarket head unit.

CJams

Spoon,

If I remember correctly only 2 outputs from the HU are being sent to the aftermarket HU correct? Because the bleed through comes from all 4 outputs of the OEM HU. You're a special one since you're running 2 HU instaed of just 1.

Thx guys for the replies!

Keep'em comming if you would.

Spoon

That's correct, that is the current setup, and I do not have left/right channel bleed. From your description you seem to be experiencing left/right and front/back bleed, if that were a problem with the method, I should experience left/right bleed too. Prior to the addition of the aftermarket unit, I was utilizing all four OEM channels and never noticed bleed, but in all fairness, never tested it in the manner you describe.