spacers for speakers
#1
spacers for speakers
Hey guys,
I am looking to install some Alpine Type-S speakers in my TSX. After researching the threads on this site and others, they seem like the favored speakers for aftermarket installs. Will listen to them first before making my decision but I'm pretty much sold on them. I have a couple of questions for the guys who have already installed them, what kind of spacers do you need for the door installations (front and rear, driver's and passenger's side) and the rear deck installation? Also, what is required to remove the rear deck speakers, does anyone have piuctures or a short description, are there any special tools needed. Is there any cutting involved in the rear deck and doors. I want to install these speakers myself as I do not trust Car Stereo installers, they fucked up my Integra GS-R and I don't want the interior of my TSX to be scratched or damaged. ANy advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I am looking to install some Alpine Type-S speakers in my TSX. After researching the threads on this site and others, they seem like the favored speakers for aftermarket installs. Will listen to them first before making my decision but I'm pretty much sold on them. I have a couple of questions for the guys who have already installed them, what kind of spacers do you need for the door installations (front and rear, driver's and passenger's side) and the rear deck installation? Also, what is required to remove the rear deck speakers, does anyone have piuctures or a short description, are there any special tools needed. Is there any cutting involved in the rear deck and doors. I want to install these speakers myself as I do not trust Car Stereo installers, they fucked up my Integra GS-R and I don't want the interior of my TSX to be scratched or damaged. ANy advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
#2
You might listen to the Polk DB650 vs the Alpine at Circuit
City. It's a matter of taste.
I posted this in speaker mounting depth but have more
experience now with 4 door speakers done.
I haven't done rear deck.
At Lowes get #8x1-1/4, #8x1", and #8x1" flathead
stainless steel sheet metal screws. #8 speed washers,
A countersink bit, 7/64, 1/8, and 9/64 drill bits.
Have a shop cut 1/2" spacers out of MDF. I used one
gasket from the new speakers for the pattern.
Buy some Dynamat.
At Best Buy you can get Honda speaker connectors to
jump from the stock plug to new speakers.
Before removal,
trace out the top of the stock speakers shape onto the door with
pencil. This is you guide to center the new speakers.
Cut dynamat gaskets for between the spacer and door.
Put the round center of dynamat on the inner door metal.
Use the two small square holes that are at 4:00 and 8:00 in the door to mount the spacers with 1" flat head screws countersunk, and speed washers on the other side of the door. Drill 9/64
through the spacers and countersink. Spacers should be centered with the pencil trace on the door. You can use the
speakers holes as a pattern to hit these square holes in the door.
Place the new speakers and drill 1/8 through the spacer
and through the door at the 2:00 and 10:00 locations.
If the 1-1/4 screws will not bite into the
door, the hole can be opened with 9/64 drill.
Use 7/64 drill and drill the speaker holes into the spacers
at the 4:30 and 7:30 locations. ( remember screws are
holding the spacer to the door at 4:00 and 8:00 locations).
These cant go into the door metal. Use 1" screws to attach the speaker to the spacer. There is a larger rectagular hole in
the door there so these screws will attach the speaker to
the spacer only.
I also put dynamat sheets on the inside of the outer door
panel . I put some strips of dynamat on the inside of the finish
door panel.
There was a thread here with some pictures.
http://www.chrishorne.com/gallery/TSX
City. It's a matter of taste.
I posted this in speaker mounting depth but have more
experience now with 4 door speakers done.
I haven't done rear deck.
At Lowes get #8x1-1/4, #8x1", and #8x1" flathead
stainless steel sheet metal screws. #8 speed washers,
A countersink bit, 7/64, 1/8, and 9/64 drill bits.
Have a shop cut 1/2" spacers out of MDF. I used one
gasket from the new speakers for the pattern.
Buy some Dynamat.
At Best Buy you can get Honda speaker connectors to
jump from the stock plug to new speakers.
Before removal,
trace out the top of the stock speakers shape onto the door with
pencil. This is you guide to center the new speakers.
Cut dynamat gaskets for between the spacer and door.
Put the round center of dynamat on the inner door metal.
Use the two small square holes that are at 4:00 and 8:00 in the door to mount the spacers with 1" flat head screws countersunk, and speed washers on the other side of the door. Drill 9/64
through the spacers and countersink. Spacers should be centered with the pencil trace on the door. You can use the
speakers holes as a pattern to hit these square holes in the door.
Place the new speakers and drill 1/8 through the spacer
and through the door at the 2:00 and 10:00 locations.
If the 1-1/4 screws will not bite into the
door, the hole can be opened with 9/64 drill.
Use 7/64 drill and drill the speaker holes into the spacers
at the 4:30 and 7:30 locations. ( remember screws are
holding the spacer to the door at 4:00 and 8:00 locations).
These cant go into the door metal. Use 1" screws to attach the speaker to the spacer. There is a larger rectagular hole in
the door there so these screws will attach the speaker to
the spacer only.
I also put dynamat sheets on the inside of the outer door
panel . I put some strips of dynamat on the inside of the finish
door panel.
There was a thread here with some pictures.
http://www.chrishorne.com/gallery/TSX
#3
Don't listen to me.
The rear deck is easy. The covers pop off (held on with clips) you might have to pull hard. Each speaker is held on with 4 screws and come out easily. The Alpine 6X9 speakers are slightly bigger than the stock (Bolt placement).
The hard part is that the OEM cover has a ring on the inside that sits flush on the OEM 6x9s. That ring has to be cut out before the OEM cover can go back on.
BTW, you need the OEM cover to make it look nice. and you might want to add an amp to push the 6x9 because the stock amp won't.
The hard part is that the OEM cover has a ring on the inside that sits flush on the OEM 6x9s. That ring has to be cut out before the OEM cover can go back on.
BTW, you need the OEM cover to make it look nice. and you might want to add an amp to push the 6x9 because the stock amp won't.
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