Lazy to go through all the posts, but you should lower the latch (The hook that your trunk locks onto) a few CM. It will significantly reduce teh rattles. It's just two 10mm bolts, loosen them, lower it slightly, and retighten. Keep in mind that by lowering the latch, your trunk will sit slightly lower when locked.. so don't lower it too much otherwise your trunk won't sit flush with your quarter panels.
Also, IMO you could probably get louder with a proper size box ported with just 1 W7, and giving all that juice to a single w7.

And to join the picture collabo...

When I was a caraudio noob. Hype-R in a prefab wo0!

15" Treo SSI in 2.6cu ft @ 33hz... made myself.. first time woodworking.. didnt have any trunk space :\.. the box doesnt sit all the way back and flush due to the height req. for the 15"

Current for the last half a year.. i'm finally happy. Trunk space (350z cargo net) & all. Two 10" ssa icons .. 2.5cu ft @ 34hz. Box sits perfectly flush up against the seat since the height req is much lower, allowing a lot more space. Box also looks alot better than the first time i built ;]

 

thats what i was thinking to about selling one of them and just buying or making a better looking box and that will sound and hit harder...

and about the latch i have no idea what you are talking about lol im more of a visual learner thank you for the advice though i will look more thoroughly after class so i can see what your talking about

 

i found i set up similar to the one i have been trying to explain...either with the 2 12s or with just 1 12 this is a tsx trunk

also those are 2 10W6s



but not with all those logos, lights, inbeded amps, and those other good looking things just the box that fits the trunk like that...

would it be possible to port something like this?

 

Damn love the custom work D: lol.. i spent 50$ and a few headaches on mine, first time trying to do something custom.. came out okay i guess.. alot cheaper than that 20000$ for the custom work

Hope this helps..

 

yea thats a really awsome set up but...

i am prolly goin to do what you did wong and use 50$

lol i dont think i am ready to that kind of fabricating and wood work yet i was just using that box as what i am tring to explain because i hate how the box looks in my trunk and since tsx trunks are not squares but have all kinds of random grooves in the floor and curves on the walls it makes a huge square box look really...ugly imo

 

It's possible to port a box like that, and in fact, that's what I was going to do... However, plans (and money) have pushed the trunk in another direction. Anyway, one thing you can do is to have the sub in the middle, and port on the side. I have a box that I'm about to replace that you might like, if you have a ski-pass in the center of the rear seat like I do, and you want to drop down to a single 12... It's 2 cubes, tuned to 33hz, with 25.75 sq in of port area... The cool thing about the box is that it has a plexi panel in the back of it (directly behind where the sub is mounted so that you can see the motor of the sub from inside the cabin of the car... It's also wired for lighting, if you wanted to do that... pm if you're interested...

But anyway, yes you can port a box like that, but you'll have a port on one side of the car, and the sub in the middle, or however you wanted to arrange the port/sub setup...

 

ok so this is what im working with right now sorry dont know y they are so small

top view


how much room i got left to the top deck


this is what you see when the seats are layed down

 

well the part that is circled in black is the part that raddles and you can hear from the inside of the car i dont know why all of these are so small :/

 

You might be able to get away with putting a panel around the front of the box (you'd probably have to put it in from the front) that would seal the front of the box (port/subs) from the back of the trunk. This should help with the rattling rear deck, and should also up the sound by quite a bit...

 

dunno about you guys but mine hits harder with both back. True it wasnt sealed when I put all forward but wowsa much louder back

 

yea mine hit harder i think when they were turned the other way to but it sounded like garbage because all you heard was rattaling and no music both on the inside and out

 

holy s*** i just installed the LC6i



and it made a HUGE difference...took most of the distortion out and makes my jl's sound a lot better now if i just can find a great cheap deadener for my trunk ill be straight i think...

does anyone know how the jl w7 13s are? im thinking about selling the 2 12s, amp, and box, for 1 w7 13 and a smaller ish box...i dont know what amp i should use to push it though any suggestions?

 

good sub. for the price you can get better

 

You can do a lot better for the money...

 

any suggestions?

 

fi q, ssa xcon, ia lethal injection

 

budget? Space you're working with?

 

well if i sell my two jl's hopefully i can get 300ish a piece for them considering they got for 425 on ebay a piece

space really isnt a huge issue as long as it fits really

 

goals? amp?

 

i was thinkin of goin with the fi's dont know what amp though :/

goals...hmmm... possibly goin to start competing with it a lil later

 

You should be able to pick up a ~2-3kw amp and a solid enough sub that it'll take the power daily for the $600 or so you're looking to get out of the W7's.

 

i was thinking about the fi q 15 with a similar set up like this



but with the 15

which is very nice wong

 

does your car have that extra something or another under the rear deck? If so, you're probably not going to be able to fit 15 in there... Not unless you cut around it like the 2nd setup that wong posted...

 

Your 15 will not fit unless you have a box similar to the box I have pictured with the Treo... unless you have the sub facing up -- which woud have to be on the left side otherwise it may hit the navi unit during excursion

 

hmmm well dam i dont know then i am still interested in the fi's though

 

how does RE and DD stack up against FI?

i am looking for 1 sub that can push a good bit of power and i could possibly compete with

the amp really doesnt matter

the size really doesnt matter either as long as it can fit in my trunk

hope this helps a little bit lol

 

RE's are solid subs just like FI's. DD's get stupid loud, but generally like higher (38-42hz) tuning. If you're thinking about DD, look at AQ. It's the same company, just a different name. From what I've seen, they're all good subs, along with RD and DC. I'm running an RD Alpha V.2 with the flatwind coil option, and it'll hold 2500-3k daily and sound good doing it... That might be another option for you...

 

I have a little room.

 

ok matta what do you suggest?

i want a sub that can push a good bit of power, is crazy loud, i could possibly compete with and not do to bad, AND all in one sub

 

CD Omega, RD Alpha V.2 (with flatwind coil option) or Alphamax, AQ HDC3, DC lvl4, Ascendant Audio Havoc... Really, take your pick of those. They're all really good subs.

 

i think i am going to upgrade my current amp now, the merline M1D1, to a punch 2000... my budy had these subs before i bought them and had that hooked to em, it hit like a champ...

then im going to deaden my trunk deck, trunk latch and some other problem spots then build a wall that seals the subs...still facing towards my car...from the back of the car and have the sub playing into the car's cabin...if i dont like the way it sounds i will take the wall out and turn the box around, put the wall back in and see what that does...

if i am still not getting what i want im going to sell the subs and probably buy the AQ 12 or and FI q 12...possibly a 15 id have to measure some stuff before i do that though

 

well i did some research i found out that if i do build the wall and turn the subs firing towards the back of the car it want be as loud do to air space sooo...if it doesnt sound as good with the wall facing the car i will take the wall down and just deaden the living outa my trunk if that fails time to go the the AQs

 

I atually broke my trunk latch recently from too much bass, welded it back on and its better now. I have a dynamat trunk kit in my car and it helps with alot of the rattles, as far as keeping pressure in it's not really designed to do that. Dynamat is designed to stiffen up interior panels which will increase your SPL due to not wasting energy on flexing panels. It also provides a solid base for the sound waves to reflect off which improves the sound quality as well. What SPL do you hit right now??? My trunk latch broke at just over 145db, and I know my car (99tl) leaks air like crazy.

 

Guys, be careful when lowering your trunk latch, as I said above I actually broke mine off and I think it had to do with lowering that little latch.

 

hmmm im not sure i dont have a meter ill check with my friend and see if hes got one if he doesnt have one he knows some audio stores around here that can help me out