TSX_mike

I recently bought 2 jl w7 12s running on a 1300 US merlin amp M1D1 and put them in my trunk. I hits pretty hard but i feel like its losing pressure because of my trunk. I poked around and listened for a little bit and figured that i was losing most of my pressure because of the trunk latch it self. It raddles to the s*** out of it but thats expected.

My question is should i dynomat it or seal it or something? What can i do to build the pressure and make it hit harder?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Jonesi

dynomat is always your first option.

TSX_mike

Yea i heard that helps but then again i heard its not worth the money it costs. Is it really that good?

mitch14

first off, you'd be better off with a bigger amp for those subs, they are very power hungry, and your amp doesn't seem that big from the specs i saw online.
...and you're saying that the subs are vibrating your trunk latch...and that's reducing the amount of bass inside your car?...
what kinda box do you have these subs in?

mattastick

Raamat... It's basically the same thing as dynamat (just another brand) and it does the exact same thing for a lot less... It's what I'm going to be using this summer when I deaden my trunk for Street A comps...

eggyhustles

raamat bxt is some good stuff

TSX_mike

the box is 18 1/2" tall 35" wide and 15 1/2" deep ported and the amp is pushing them just fine even with a stock radio

i dont mean that the vidrating is lessening the sound im saying that because the tsx trunk latch is light and hallow its throwing the sound out the back of the trunk but i turned the subs around facing the car that helped a bit but i know that the pressure could be more

mattastick

That box is a little small for those subs... And you're underpowering your subs... I don't know enough about that amp to tell you if it actually does rated power, but even if it did, you're still low on power for those JL's. You should have north of 2300w for those 2 W7's at 1.75 ohms. Instead you have 1200 for both... You're at about half power. If you're not planning on fixing it, that's fine, just bringing it to your attention.

Now, that box is also small. Based on a gross calculation, you have 4.61 cu ft. That's before port and sub displacement. You should have around that after all is said and done. Again, something else that you could look at.

Now as for sealing the trunk, you can do one of 2 things. If you keep the subs firing towards the rear of the car, you should just deaden the hell outta the trunk lid, sides, and anywhere else you can get deadener. If you're going to turn the subs so they fire towards the front of the car, then you should put up a "baffle" that will completely seal off the trunk from the front of the car. The way to check and make sure that you're completely sealed is to start playing music and stand outside the car. Then open the trunk. If it gets louder, you're not completely sealed... You should also be able to feel air moving around the baffle if it's not completely sealed...

TSX_mike

ok thanks alot matta i still got the stock stereo to which blows because its only putting out 1 watt and distortion but im getting a AudioControl LC6i Line Output Converter to help push my amp harder and from what im hearing about it, it can help clean out distortion

and for the box i really dont think i can fit a bigger one in there unless its custom built to fit the tsx's trunk pertectly cause right now i have no trunk...i have seen some like this


but i think they are smaller than the box i got now

o and im getting a kenetics 800 and 1200 battery for the amp and car to help with power i know it want help ALOT but its still better than nothing

mattastick

Personally, I would've went with a couple of RE (or other company) subs instead of those W7's. If you got the amp new, you bought from the sister company of RE, who makes some great subs btw, and then you go spend ~$700 per sub? Just doesn't make sense to me... If you want to change your setup around, I'd sell the W7's and get something else. There's a lot better for the money out there, you just have to know where to look...

As for your battery situation, I'd put the largest single battery in the front that you can. Right now, I'm running a Powermaster D5100R in the front of my 1st Gen CL, and it's holding up my Orion 1200d and RF 450.2 just fine for daily use. It also does quite well during comps, as I found out this weekend...

TSX_mike

well i bought the subs for like 400$ slightly used from my friend and being that they go 400$ ish a piece on ebay i couldnt let that deal pass me up so i went ahead and bought them

and i am just getting in to the audio hobby so i dont know a lot but im getting there and i thinking about buying that huge battery...did you have problems putting it under the hood?

mitch14

^ooohhhhh, so you really meant trunk lid and not trunk latch? cuz that's where i was getting so confused
Using deadeners on your trunk lid is a good idea to try and keep the sound inside your car more, and for those subs, your trunk lid is probably gonna rattle a little, but most of the sound should stay inside.

to everything matt said tho, smaller box + underpowering = not good for your subs
and with the w7's you don't want to have to replace them, just my tho

on1wheel01

Yea do what I did expanding foam and dynamat(or other brand) helps a ton with rattling and makes it louder. As for the w7's, eh I don't like em they have a bad sound in my and many others opinions. Don't get me wrong they beat hard but I like the higher end stuff myself. I do like that box but it does need to be bigger

Tehvine

The most obvious place to also seal is the pressure "door" that is usually in one of the rear quarterpanels of the car in the trunk. It's a one way flap that will let pressure escape... just doing so *might* cause moisture to build up. I never had a problem with that in my other car though, I sealed that thing off good and tight.

on1wheel01

how do you go about sealing that up??? I wonder if that could help get more db's

eggyhustles

you should do a 4th order bandpass ported through the rear deck

mattastick

If you completely sealed the trunk, by putting up MDF walls on the top, bottom, sides, and back of the trunk, you could do a 4th order bandpass around either side or a sealed box... That could be very fun if you don't mind giving up your entire trunk...

eggyhustles

doesn't have to lose all of it.

ie


still space left

mattastick

true, but barely... Either way, it would be cool...

TypeSinNC

iTrader: (2)

just to answer a question you had mattastick...the MD1D is slightly underrated. They are no where near as underrated as the ones prior to them buying RE though...both companies quality lowered and prices went up after they combined.

i think those subs are underpowered, also...what's the VC config on them?

mattastick

they're dual 1.75... So he likely has a 1.75 ohm final load, so the amp's not pushing the power it could if JL would use some normal voice coils (something like dual 1's or dual 2's or dual 4's or whatever) but they still need more, regardless...

TSX_mike

well thanks for all the info guys its really helpfull and like i said before i am new to the audio scene so i dont know a whole lot

as for



you have ALOT more space than me

i will take some pictures so that you can really see how much space i got and how much i got to work with...

should i make a more compact box but alot deeper or should i just make the whole trunk the box or do you have any pics or anything to help out

keep in mind that anything that is done to my car i would like to be able to undo incase i wanna trade it in or would be a cheap fix to turn back to normal thx again guys

o and i am trying to some what pimp out my car so anything to save money would be nice to

mattastick

If you did a 4th order like that, you wouldn't need as much power, and your amp would probably be suitable... Only problem is designing a 4th order... I dunno how to do it, and it's a very picky process. If you get one little thing wrong, it'll sound like shit... I know of a couple people that could probably design you something. The best way to do it would be to get a pic with dimensions of your trunk space so that some of the better designers on here could take a look at your space...

eggyhustles

4th orders are tricky as hell.

TSX_mike

i did a little research on the 4th order and still dont really understand what its all about

TSX_mike

o and is it a 4th order bandpass or is it just 4th order because i have never heard of these before

mattastick

It's a 4th order bandpass... There's also something called a 6th order bandpass but you won't have anywhere near enough room for that...

TSX_mike

i still dont really understand how the 4th order works every where i check gives a real vague explanation about what it is and how it works got any pics?

one off topic question i read that you cant wire blue interior LED's directly to your battery even with a wire fuse to help incase of short circuit...is this true?

lol sorry i got so many questions

mattastick

Here's a good bit of info on most different types of enclosures:

http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/f...ead.php?t=9372

As for the LED's, somebody's crazy. As long as you fuse the + wire you should be good...

TSX_mike

i installed my LEDs an hour ago how hard is it to dynomat your trunk?

mattastick

Most deadeners are as easy as peel and stick...

TSX_mike

aight ill try that next probably

TSX_mike

hopefully one day i can get my car to look as clean as CCColtsicehockey's

mattastick

Yeah, that's a pretty nice install, but iirc, that box is sealed... Won't get as loud as you're used to, even though that Big Belle is a monster...

TSX_mike

i think i could sacrifice loudness for for that...do you know anything about AudioControl products?

mattastick

They're expensive, but quality from what I've heard... That was from Uncald4, I guess he uses a lot of their stuff...

TSX_mike

ok i have been thinking about selling one of my jl's and doing a setup close to this...because of space and that big a** box taking up my whole trunk looks geto and ugly



if i did this could i make a box like that one but ported?

and if i didnt sell the one jl could i build i box like this one that could hold 2 12's and still be ported?

i know mine would need to be alot bigger but anything looks better than what i got now

mattastick

What are you height and width measurements? And how much depth are you willing to give up? Give me that info, and I'll see what I can come up with for you...

TSX_mike

i am willing to give up the majority of my trunk...i am not sure about the hieght and depth of that box though i was just using that as an example

mattastick

Right, go measure the distance between your strut towers, and the height from the floor to the bottom of the rear deck (or whatever is the lowest point at the top of the trunk). Then the depth is all up to you... Once I have those dimensions, I'll see what kind of box I can come up with for you...