results of 1st attempt at changing bose amp!
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
results of 1st attempt at changing bose amp!
first attempt was a total failure! cut the cables going to the speakers from the bose amp....connected a scosche line out converter, used rca cables to connect to the aftermarket amp, from the aftermarket amp, the output, i reconnected to the other half of the cut speaker wires. when all was done, all i could hear was noise. no music! just like the sound of the alternator coming out of the speakers. nothing more. i checked all connections, made sure pos and neg at speaker connections were accurate...and they all were! after 4 hrs of working on it...(1hr running the 4 gauge cable to the trunk), i gave up for now. i don't know what i did wrong. i put everything back to stock for now with the sub connected. any advice?......HELP!!!!! OR maybe i should let circuit city install the amp for me! by the way, the speaker wires i accessed were the output wires of the bose amp!
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CL-P....icy white!
moon roof visor: mud guards: genuine acura nose mask: genuine acura burlwood shift knob: polarg m-12 on blinkers: m-4s on internal lamps: m-4 on rear plate lamp: piaa bulbs on road lamps: K&N drop in filter: Catz XLO Driving lights: zaino polish
"i drive it like my grandma....j/k"
[This message has been edited by icy CL (edited 06-16-2001).]
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CL-P....icy white!
moon roof visor: mud guards: genuine acura nose mask: genuine acura burlwood shift knob: polarg m-12 on blinkers: m-4s on internal lamps: m-4 on rear plate lamp: piaa bulbs on road lamps: K&N drop in filter: Catz XLO Driving lights: zaino polish
"i drive it like my grandma....j/k"
[This message has been edited by icy CL (edited 06-16-2001).]
#2
Hi,
Hmm, have you made sure all the proper power and ground connections are right? That's what I ran into the first time it didn't work for me. Now I used an Audiolink PD4 converter, but it should all be the same connections..... You have to make sure you connect the (-)ground wire to the "chassis ground" on the converter AND the "shield" (green) wire to a signal ground on the converter. Try that.
Oh, and don't forget the remote turn on must be connected to the LOC as well.
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'01 CL-S Black/Parchment
Spoiler and NAV.
Infinity Kappa 6.5" comps.
Kappa 2-way 6x9s
10" Kicker Solobaric sub.
Kicker IX405D 5-channel amp.
RAZO aluminum pedals
AEM cai on the way
[This message has been edited by Driven (edited 06-18-2001).]
Hmm, have you made sure all the proper power and ground connections are right? That's what I ran into the first time it didn't work for me. Now I used an Audiolink PD4 converter, but it should all be the same connections..... You have to make sure you connect the (-)ground wire to the "chassis ground" on the converter AND the "shield" (green) wire to a signal ground on the converter. Try that.
Oh, and don't forget the remote turn on must be connected to the LOC as well.
------------------
'01 CL-S Black/Parchment
Spoiler and NAV.
Infinity Kappa 6.5" comps.
Kappa 2-way 6x9s
10" Kicker Solobaric sub.
Kicker IX405D 5-channel amp.
RAZO aluminum pedals
AEM cai on the way
[This message has been edited by Driven (edited 06-18-2001).]
#3
Driven
So you have a stock Head unit and aftermarket amp and speakers. Does it sound good, and do you have any engine noise or extra noise.
People have told me alot of diffrent stuff.
Just wondering
thanks
------------------
Black Type-S
So you have a stock Head unit and aftermarket amp and speakers. Does it sound good, and do you have any engine noise or extra noise.
People have told me alot of diffrent stuff.
Just wondering
thanks
------------------
Black Type-S
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