Polk DX6 - unbelievable difference
11-09-2002, 04:28 PM
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Originally posted by kennelm
Southbound, Thanks for the Radio Shack tip. I just picked up the caps at a local place I found in the phone book. Now, I just need some dynamat. Do you think I can find this at stereo installation shops?
Thanks!
Southbound, Thanks for the Radio Shack tip. I just picked up the caps at a local place I found in the phone book. Now, I just need some dynamat. Do you think I can find this at stereo installation shops?
Thanks!
You'll want to get two dynamat extreme speaker kits - it's fairly easy to install. Each kit does two speakers, and if I recall correctly the list price is about $20. Doing the whole door is more expensive and much, much more work (trust me I know
)Also get the dynamat economy roller - you use it to make sure the dynamat is firmly applied to the door.
11-09-2002, 10:35 PM
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SB -
I'm trying to limit the time on the computer since I don't seem to get much done around the house, etc. when I sit in front of it. My wife rags about it as well.
But hey, sometimes you just can't help it!
That would be a great DVD which I'm guessing they will do - everyone else does it.
Cheers!
I'm trying to limit the time on the computer since I don't seem to get much done around the house, etc. when I sit in front of it. My wife rags about it as well.
But hey, sometimes you just can't help it!
That would be a great DVD which I'm guessing they will do - everyone else does it.
Cheers!
11-10-2002, 12:26 AM
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hr...
Good to hear from you. I just went out and bought the NEW Clapton LIVE 2001 Tour CD. It's a double CD. Disc one is acoustical, and disc two is electric. I haven't had a chance to fully evaluate it yet, but from what I can tell... there's good news and bad news...
The good news is that the renditions are new and refreshing versions of blues classics and clapton classics. Although you can never get enough of the true classics... As usual, there are a few songs missing that I wish were included.
The bad news is that the mix seems to sound fairly muffled. The vocals are buried and the bass is muddy. There are some pssst, pssst, hiss, hiss, highs typical of modern recordings... but the overall mix seems to be a let down. It's still worth buying, I would say... It just came out this week, so it's on sale at BestBuy for $14.99. Not bad for a new double live album. The tunes are good, but the mix could be better... I'll have to see if it sounds better on my home stereo.
Take care!
SB.
Good to hear from you. I just went out and bought the NEW Clapton LIVE 2001 Tour CD. It's a double CD. Disc one is acoustical, and disc two is electric. I haven't had a chance to fully evaluate it yet, but from what I can tell... there's good news and bad news...
The good news is that the renditions are new and refreshing versions of blues classics and clapton classics. Although you can never get enough of the true classics... As usual, there are a few songs missing that I wish were included.
The bad news is that the mix seems to sound fairly muffled. The vocals are buried and the bass is muddy. There are some pssst, pssst, hiss, hiss, highs typical of modern recordings... but the overall mix seems to be a let down. It's still worth buying, I would say... It just came out this week, so it's on sale at BestBuy for $14.99. Not bad for a new double live album. The tunes are good, but the mix could be better... I'll have to see if it sounds better on my home stereo.
Take care!
SB.
11-10-2002, 12:45 AM
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Sounds like I should have gotten that CD this week. I was down on Bourbon St. for a conference. What a wild place - even during the week!:yack:
Anyway, I searched and found the following:
September 5: CSNY Tour Of America on DVD?
According a journalist, Graham Nash is hard at work on the CSNY DVD. Probably it won't be done in time for Xmas, but he's doing the actual compiling, and is in the process of choosing performances from the last tour.
Anyway, I searched and found the following:
September 5: CSNY Tour Of America on DVD?
According a journalist, Graham Nash is hard at work on the CSNY DVD. Probably it won't be done in time for Xmas, but he's doing the actual compiling, and is in the process of choosing performances from the last tour.
11-10-2002, 01:27 PM
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Southbound,
Shorting of the roll-of cap is possible, but i have put the duct tape around the speaker hole (2 layers) and insulated whatever i find on the circuit. So i rule that out.
what happens if, say, cap are not soldered properly? Could that be the reason? I'm kinda afraid to put the cap back on, since i think it might move the soundstage backward again.
Anyway,
I keep my treble level at the center and sometimes i go one level up or down, depeneding upon the song being played. Like u said, it may not sound like a 10k system, but its much better than stock.
Shorting of the roll-of cap is possible, but i have put the duct tape around the speaker hole (2 layers) and insulated whatever i find on the circuit. So i rule that out.
what happens if, say, cap are not soldered properly? Could that be the reason? I'm kinda afraid to put the cap back on, since i think it might move the soundstage backward again.
Anyway,
I keep my treble level at the center and sometimes i go one level up or down, depeneding upon the song being played. Like u said, it may not sound like a 10k system, but its much better than stock.
11-10-2002, 07:39 PM
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I found an Xtreme Dynamat kit at Best Buy that contains 4 Sq. ft. They charged me $35 Based on some prices I saw on ebay, this is kinda expensive, but I need it now.
I had figured on using 1 sq. ft. per speaker, so this kit should do all four. I hope.
Based on some prices I saw on ebay, this is kinda expensive, but I need it now. I had figured on using 1 sq. ft. per speaker, so this kit should do all four. I hope.
Originally posted by egilsrud
Kennelm, you can find dynamat at virtually all shops that sell mobile electronics. This includes Best Buy, Circuit City and the local retail shops as well.
You'll want to get two dynamat extreme speaker kits - it's fairly easy to install. Each kit does two speakers, and if I recall correctly the list price is about $20. Doing the whole door is more expensive and much, much more work (trust me I know )
Also get the dynamat economy roller - you use it to make sure the dynamat is firmly applied to the door.
Kennelm, you can find dynamat at virtually all shops that sell mobile electronics. This includes Best Buy, Circuit City and the local retail shops as well.
You'll want to get two dynamat extreme speaker kits - it's fairly easy to install. Each kit does two speakers, and if I recall correctly the list price is about $20. Doing the whole door is more expensive and much, much more work (trust me I know
)Also get the dynamat economy roller - you use it to make sure the dynamat is firmly applied to the door.
11-10-2002, 08:02 PM
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Southbound, et. al.,
I just noticed that the rolloff cap I bought is labeled as 100V. Is this OK? I asked for +/- 50V. It is non-polarized, 4.7 uF...
Nevermind! I just found one of your posts that says 50V (or higher). So I am OK. Good thing, since the cap is already on the speaker!
Is it possible to damage the resistors and caps by getting them too hot, as when soldering? I know that I got one or two of the small resistors kinda hot. Maybe others too...
I just noticed that the rolloff cap I bought is labeled as 100V. Is this OK? I asked for +/- 50V. It is non-polarized, 4.7 uF...
Nevermind! I just found one of your posts that says 50V (or higher). So I am OK. Good thing, since the cap is already on the speaker!
Is it possible to damage the resistors and caps by getting them too hot, as when soldering? I know that I got one or two of the small resistors kinda hot. Maybe others too...
11-11-2002, 02:01 AM
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ash,
Sounds like your operating in the nominal range. I wouldn't worry about trying to add the roll off cap. As I and others would tell you, whether or not you use it... is up to your own ears. As long as you don't find yourself turning the treble down below center... then you are operating in a range that is good for your listening preferences. Leave well enough alone... unless you POP for that $10K system!
Kennelm,
You are ready to "rock and roll"! Four sheets of extreme dynamat should do you just fine. Put a sheet underneath each speaker and it will make a world of difference with regrad to bass punch and rattles, etc. Doing the whole door (inside and out) would of course be better... but my hat's off to those who have gone that extra mile! You will have to trim a few of the corners to allow it to fit into the contours of the door frame and to miss electrical harnesses, etc. I just put mine ON TOP of the vapor barrier plastic. OVER THE SPEAKER DOOR HOLE CUTOUT... Then I took an exacto knife to cut out the center to fit the speaker through it. This part of the door frame is fairly flat, and you will find that a single sheet will fit very well OVER the factory plastic at this location and this amount of coverage. You'll just need to trim a few corners... If you were doing the whole door, then you might want to take off the factory plastic and cover the entire metal frame. But for this case, it seems fine and EASY to lay on top of the vapor barrier plastic and underneath the speaker spacer.
With regard to component values, you don't need to worry about having an extra voltage value. This just gives you an extra margin of safety before the cap would short out due to excessive input voltages. Your only concern in this situation is SIZE. higher voltage caps are larger in size due to a thicker dielectric. As long as this cap fits... USE IT! It's also REALLY hard to burn up a resistor with a soldering iron! They are made to dissipate heat, and therefore can take substantial amounts of heat. The 5watt resistor would get way too hot for you to hold, as would the 1watt resistor before any damage would occur. They can easily get hot enough to boil water (sizzle when you touch a wet finger on one) without any kind of damage. So unless you are the world's sloppiest solderer, NOT TO WORRY! When you make your joints too hot, the typical reason is that you have not "tinned" each component lead separately before soldering the two together. Make sure that EACH lead or terminal can take solder first... by applying a little bit to each lead until it sticks and "Tins" shiny. Then you will have no problem tacking the two parts together. If you don't tin the two parts separately first, sometimes you can hover over the joint way too long with the iron and burn up all of the flux. Once the flux is gone, the joint won't want to take solder. So you will need to add some more FRESH solder to make a solid shiny joint. Otherwise you can end up with "COLD" joints that oxidize and work loose over time. If you get WAY too much of a glob of solder that looks cold... you need to get a solder sucker... heat it up and suck it away and then start over. The next time it will take clean solder with a minimum of effort, because it has been "tinned the hard way"... I'm sure you're cool!!! I hope you have a good listening report soon!
hr,
Thanks for the CSNY update... Sounds like something will be coming out... that will be really nice! If they are making a DVD, they have to also be making a CD as well, right? IF not, I may need some CD burning favors...
DEFINITELY BUY THE NEW CLAPTON DOUBLE LIVE ALBUM!!! "One more Car, one more rider". The CONTENT IS PHENOMENAL! Even if you have dozens of Clapton albums, including live stuff from various gigs... get this one! The renditions are FRESH, FURIOUS AND FULL OF ENERGY! I have only been listening to disc 2 so far (the electric version) but it's definitely NOT EC AS SLOW HAND! He COOKS on guitar solos with lots of other surprise solos by keyboards, (both piano and organ) and synthetic horns... His vocals are raging with passion! It's a great example of the "master going faster"... Like I say, the mix is mushier than I would like, but it did sound better inside last night. I have a pair of really nice STAX electrostatic headphones that I drive from a 300watt per channel Altec Lansing amp that I custom built. The bass may be a bit lacking through the STAX, but the clarity and crispeness of the mids and highs are fantastic. Last night, I found myself going "retro"... Turned OFF the TV, lit a candle, and cranked the CD two times through disc 2. WHAT A CONCERT! No way you could keep the TLS below 80mph while listening to this on the open road, and no way you could you stay still in your seat while at the concert live... I gotta give it a two thumbs up for new inspiring content, in spite of the mushy recording... Hope you feel the same. If I'm wrong, I'll owe you!
Take care!
SB
Sounds like your operating in the nominal range. I wouldn't worry about trying to add the roll off cap. As I and others would tell you, whether or not you use it... is up to your own ears. As long as you don't find yourself turning the treble down below center... then you are operating in a range that is good for your listening preferences. Leave well enough alone... unless you POP for that $10K system!
Kennelm,
You are ready to "rock and roll"! Four sheets of extreme dynamat should do you just fine. Put a sheet underneath each speaker and it will make a world of difference with regrad to bass punch and rattles, etc. Doing the whole door (inside and out) would of course be better... but my hat's off to those who have gone that extra mile! You will have to trim a few of the corners to allow it to fit into the contours of the door frame and to miss electrical harnesses, etc. I just put mine ON TOP of the vapor barrier plastic. OVER THE SPEAKER DOOR HOLE CUTOUT... Then I took an exacto knife to cut out the center to fit the speaker through it. This part of the door frame is fairly flat, and you will find that a single sheet will fit very well OVER the factory plastic at this location and this amount of coverage. You'll just need to trim a few corners... If you were doing the whole door, then you might want to take off the factory plastic and cover the entire metal frame. But for this case, it seems fine and EASY to lay on top of the vapor barrier plastic and underneath the speaker spacer.
With regard to component values, you don't need to worry about having an extra voltage value. This just gives you an extra margin of safety before the cap would short out due to excessive input voltages. Your only concern in this situation is SIZE. higher voltage caps are larger in size due to a thicker dielectric. As long as this cap fits... USE IT! It's also REALLY hard to burn up a resistor with a soldering iron! They are made to dissipate heat, and therefore can take substantial amounts of heat. The 5watt resistor would get way too hot for you to hold, as would the 1watt resistor before any damage would occur. They can easily get hot enough to boil water (sizzle when you touch a wet finger on one) without any kind of damage. So unless you are the world's sloppiest solderer, NOT TO WORRY! When you make your joints too hot, the typical reason is that you have not "tinned" each component lead separately before soldering the two together. Make sure that EACH lead or terminal can take solder first... by applying a little bit to each lead until it sticks and "Tins" shiny. Then you will have no problem tacking the two parts together. If you don't tin the two parts separately first, sometimes you can hover over the joint way too long with the iron and burn up all of the flux. Once the flux is gone, the joint won't want to take solder. So you will need to add some more FRESH solder to make a solid shiny joint. Otherwise you can end up with "COLD" joints that oxidize and work loose over time. If you get WAY too much of a glob of solder that looks cold... you need to get a solder sucker... heat it up and suck it away and then start over. The next time it will take clean solder with a minimum of effort, because it has been "tinned the hard way"... I'm sure you're cool!!! I hope you have a good listening report soon!
hr,
Thanks for the CSNY update... Sounds like something will be coming out... that will be really nice! If they are making a DVD, they have to also be making a CD as well, right? IF not, I may need some CD burning favors...
DEFINITELY BUY THE NEW CLAPTON DOUBLE LIVE ALBUM!!! "One more Car, one more rider". The CONTENT IS PHENOMENAL! Even if you have dozens of Clapton albums, including live stuff from various gigs... get this one! The renditions are FRESH, FURIOUS AND FULL OF ENERGY! I have only been listening to disc 2 so far (the electric version) but it's definitely NOT EC AS SLOW HAND! He COOKS on guitar solos with lots of other surprise solos by keyboards, (both piano and organ) and synthetic horns... His vocals are raging with passion! It's a great example of the "master going faster"... Like I say, the mix is mushier than I would like, but it did sound better inside last night. I have a pair of really nice STAX electrostatic headphones that I drive from a 300watt per channel Altec Lansing amp that I custom built. The bass may be a bit lacking through the STAX, but the clarity and crispeness of the mids and highs are fantastic. Last night, I found myself going "retro"... Turned OFF the TV, lit a candle, and cranked the CD two times through disc 2. WHAT A CONCERT! No way you could keep the TLS below 80mph while listening to this on the open road, and no way you could you stay still in your seat while at the concert live... I gotta give it a two thumbs up for new inspiring content, in spite of the mushy recording... Hope you feel the same. If I'm wrong, I'll owe you!
Take care!
SB
11-11-2002, 04:32 PM
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Installed Passenger Side Speaker
I got started late today, so I was only able to install the passenger side Polk. Preliminary indications are good. Speaker appears to be working correctly, altho I didn't crank it up yet because the RTV is still drying. But, at low volume it sounded good!
A few observations:
Southbound is right: what a POS that stock speaker is. Looks like somebody's practical joke.
I had to cut off the three tabs on the front of the plastic basket. These tabs were there to lock onto the stock speaker. Not to be confused with the basket on the back that I also cut off. I don't think anyone else has mentioned this. Am I the only one that had to cut those tabs off?
I scratched my &%^#% sail panel too. Put some duct tape over the aft region of that thing. I will before doing the driver's side door.
The foil on that edge of that dynamat is sharp
You have to cut your spliced-on speaker wires REALLY short (like, only an inch long). The first time I left them about 2 inches long, and when I tested the window, I could hear it scraping the wires as it went down.
So, I'll provide more info tomorrow, when I can really test the speaker at higher volume. But, so far, so good. Hopefully I can do the driver's side door next weekend...
Kudos to Southbound (and others) for all his research and generous sharing of info.
A few observations:
Southbound is right: what a POS that stock speaker is. Looks like somebody's practical joke.
I had to cut off the three tabs on the front of the plastic basket. These tabs were there to lock onto the stock speaker. Not to be confused with the basket on the back that I also cut off. I don't think anyone else has mentioned this. Am I the only one that had to cut those tabs off?
I scratched my &%^#% sail panel too. Put some duct tape over the aft region of that thing. I will before doing the driver's side door.
The foil on that edge of that dynamat is sharp
You have to cut your spliced-on speaker wires REALLY short (like, only an inch long). The first time I left them about 2 inches long, and when I tested the window, I could hear it scraping the wires as it went down.
So, I'll provide more info tomorrow, when I can really test the speaker at higher volume. But, so far, so good. Hopefully I can do the driver's side door next weekend...
Kudos to Southbound (and others) for all his research and generous sharing of info.
11-11-2002, 05:18 PM
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Re: Installed Passenger Side Speaker
Originally posted by kennelm
I scratched my &%^#% sail panel too. Put some duct tape over the aft region of that thing. I will before doing the driver's side door.
I scratched my &%^#% sail panel too. Put some duct tape over the aft region of that thing. I will before doing the driver's side door.
Don't sweat the scratches on the sail panel - I was able to get a replacement from my Acura dealer for $5 and change.
Also, they are extremely easy to remove - just grab its edges and give it a good hard yank. Do it as the first step - that way you know you can't scratch it. Unfortunately, like you I learned this the hard way
Keep us updated on your progress!
11-11-2002, 06:07 PM
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Good update and good observations! I too learned the hard way by scratching up the sail panel. I protected the driver's side one by putting some duct tape on it before removing the door panel. I then removed the duct tape after the door panel was back on. I know that I have written that up in one of my many rambles... sorry you didn't get that tip... Glad to hear that they pop out easily and that they can be replaced for $5bucks, thanks egilsrud... perhaps that is the better solution. To anybody esle out there...In any case, PROTECT YOUR SAIL PANELS WHEN REMOVING OR REPLACING YOUR DOOR PANELS!!!
The three locking tabs that you are talking about... YES WE HAVE ALL HAD TO REMOVE THEM... again sorry for you not getting that information either. I find that there is just only so much detail that I can post before the reader grows tired of reading my rambles. I used to think that the more the better... now I'm try to learn to make more concise posts... But you are good to go for good sound if you cut off all of the rear basket and yes the tabs too... I guess most of us ran across the tab issue and assumed it to be obvious.
With respect to the wire length... YES THEY MUST BE SHORT... I know that I have rambled on and on about that point in most of my posts. A few people did not test the clearance and had the window rip the wire off of the speaker, only to have it short out in the bottom of the door frame. YOU WERE SMART to check the clearance first. It's ok to have spare length... JUST USE A TIE WRAP TO TIE IT BACK TO THE MAIN HARNESS UP AGAINST THE INSIDE DOOR FRAME. I'm sure you also noticed the harness tie down clip that is inserted into a hole underneath the speaker. You can pop this white plastic tie down out of the door frame to give you more room to work with your terminal crimps, etc. Then you can easily tie back any excess to the harness before snapping the hold down clip back in place. Hope this helps for your next door. By the time you get to the rears... it will be a piece of cake!
When I mounted my 5watt resistor, I let it dry overnight with the speaker laying flat on a bench top. I did this first before ever installing the speaker in the car... If you applied the RTV wet, and then mounted the speaker in place... the resistor might "drop" off of the bottom of the magnet due to gravity before it fully dries??? Just to be safe... I also used a loop of about three large tie wraps to hold the resistor in place around the speaker magnet. I initially did this so that it would stay in place while the RTV dried.... I ended up leaving the tie wrap band in place even when I installed the speaker. I'm sure the "cured" RTV would be sufficient... but I just left the tie wrap on anyway. But it is a good way to make sure you have a good bond while things dry on the bench! One tie wrap will be too short to go around the circumference of the magnet... but just keep inserting tie wraps into one another until you have a chain of tie wraps long enough to go all the way around... Pull things TIGHT and then cut off the ends. Nothing's going to go anywhere after this... The rolloff cap shouldn't go anywhere because it doesn't weigh much and if you put a good glob underneath it and let it cure on the bench where gravity is not pulling against it... It will be as solid as the factory crossover cap!
Hope some of these additional tips help... sounds like you're finding your way through the traps just fine by yourself. Don't expect things to sound good UNTIL you have replace ALL speakers or at least BOTH sides up front... One BLOSE and one Polk will not come together in the center like the two POLKS will. Proper soundstage and stereo imagry is somewhat magical... when it all comes together in that "sweet spot" things are good. Just positioning the sweetspot where you want it can be the challenge....
Keep on working... The driver's side has more connectors to deal with... but the door handle opener assy works the same way. It's really not that much tougher. The rears are simple... Just protect the sail panels....
GOOD WORK!
southbound
The three locking tabs that you are talking about... YES WE HAVE ALL HAD TO REMOVE THEM... again sorry for you not getting that information either. I find that there is just only so much detail that I can post before the reader grows tired of reading my rambles. I used to think that the more the better... now I'm try to learn to make more concise posts... But you are good to go for good sound if you cut off all of the rear basket and yes the tabs too... I guess most of us ran across the tab issue and assumed it to be obvious.
With respect to the wire length... YES THEY MUST BE SHORT... I know that I have rambled on and on about that point in most of my posts. A few people did not test the clearance and had the window rip the wire off of the speaker, only to have it short out in the bottom of the door frame. YOU WERE SMART to check the clearance first. It's ok to have spare length... JUST USE A TIE WRAP TO TIE IT BACK TO THE MAIN HARNESS UP AGAINST THE INSIDE DOOR FRAME. I'm sure you also noticed the harness tie down clip that is inserted into a hole underneath the speaker. You can pop this white plastic tie down out of the door frame to give you more room to work with your terminal crimps, etc. Then you can easily tie back any excess to the harness before snapping the hold down clip back in place. Hope this helps for your next door. By the time you get to the rears... it will be a piece of cake!
When I mounted my 5watt resistor, I let it dry overnight with the speaker laying flat on a bench top. I did this first before ever installing the speaker in the car... If you applied the RTV wet, and then mounted the speaker in place... the resistor might "drop" off of the bottom of the magnet due to gravity before it fully dries??? Just to be safe... I also used a loop of about three large tie wraps to hold the resistor in place around the speaker magnet. I initially did this so that it would stay in place while the RTV dried.... I ended up leaving the tie wrap band in place even when I installed the speaker. I'm sure the "cured" RTV would be sufficient... but I just left the tie wrap on anyway. But it is a good way to make sure you have a good bond while things dry on the bench! One tie wrap will be too short to go around the circumference of the magnet... but just keep inserting tie wraps into one another until you have a chain of tie wraps long enough to go all the way around... Pull things TIGHT and then cut off the ends. Nothing's going to go anywhere after this... The rolloff cap shouldn't go anywhere because it doesn't weigh much and if you put a good glob underneath it and let it cure on the bench where gravity is not pulling against it... It will be as solid as the factory crossover cap!
Hope some of these additional tips help... sounds like you're finding your way through the traps just fine by yourself. Don't expect things to sound good UNTIL you have replace ALL speakers or at least BOTH sides up front... One BLOSE and one Polk will not come together in the center like the two POLKS will. Proper soundstage and stereo imagry is somewhat magical... when it all comes together in that "sweet spot" things are good. Just positioning the sweetspot where you want it can be the challenge....
Keep on working... The driver's side has more connectors to deal with... but the door handle opener assy works the same way. It's really not that much tougher. The rears are simple... Just protect the sail panels....
GOOD WORK!
southbound
11-11-2002, 06:36 PM
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RTV
Southbound,
I let the RTV cure for about 5 hours on the bench. During that time everything was held in place. I used a small tie wrap to hold the rolloff cap in place, and a large rubber band to wrap around the magnet and the resistor. When I did the install, I slipped the rubber band off, and clipped the tie wrap. I think it will be OK.
Re: the tabs, I guess I just missed that tip when I read all the posts. No biggie.
Are you happy with the rear speakers not having the roll-off cap? Or do you think I should just do the rears the same as the front? Will they be too bright if I skip the rolloff cap?
I let the RTV cure for about 5 hours on the bench. During that time everything was held in place. I used a small tie wrap to hold the rolloff cap in place, and a large rubber band to wrap around the magnet and the resistor. When I did the install, I slipped the rubber band off, and clipped the tie wrap. I think it will be OK.
Re: the tabs, I guess I just missed that tip when I read all the posts. No biggie.
Are you happy with the rear speakers not having the roll-off cap? Or do you think I should just do the rears the same as the front? Will they be too bright if I skip the rolloff cap?
11-11-2002, 10:12 PM
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SB -
I'll get the Clapton album and give it a spin. But what did you mean by:
I have only been listening to disc 2 so far (the electric version) but it's definitely NOT EC AS SLOW HAND!
I'll make a CD for you when the CSNY DVD comes out. Don't tell me that you don't have a DVD player yet?
I look forward to some good Slowhand.
I'll get the Clapton album and give it a spin. But what did you mean by:
I have only been listening to disc 2 so far (the electric version) but it's definitely NOT EC AS SLOW HAND!
I'll make a CD for you when the CSNY DVD comes out. Don't tell me that you don't have a DVD player yet?
I look forward to some good Slowhand.
11-12-2002, 01:17 AM
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hr,
I don't think you'll be disappointed with the album song content, especially at the reasonable price. It's not like some $40 dollar box set where you have to wonder if it's worth buying another album with yet more versions of the same songs... These electric versions are fresh and exhuberating. What I mean't by it not being EC as slowhand... was that it's EC PICKIN' RIFFS with ruthless fury. The songs are more UP TEMPO than usual which is why I dubbed it Fasthand rather than slowhand. IT sounded a lot better in my house with the privacy of my super headphones... It still sounds mushy and muddy in the TLS... but gooooood stuff, nontheless! It might sound better on your home system as well. It needs to be played LOUD to be appreciated. YES, I have a DVD, I was one of the first to probably buy one. Back in 1998... I just LIKE MY CAR MUSIC... so I need a CD to play in the car... and I don't have a dvd player in my car or computer... or a CD burner that's where I'm falling behind with technology. My home computer system is three years old... so you know what that means. BUT at least it's a PIII, 450Mhz, 256Mb RAM, It's not a total dog... but it doesn't have the current periphials
I hope I haven't raved so much about the album that it won't meet your expectations... but I found it to be quite pleasing... wish I had gone to one of the concerts a year ago!
kennelm
Sounds like you've got everything very well in hand. If you let the RTV dry for 5 hours on the bench with a rubber band... It will be hard enough to stick for life. You know what you're doing! As far as adding the rolloff cap to the rear door... I personally don't think I would go for it. As you have probably noticed... ASH, and BB, have commented that they think the highs are not bright enough... At least they are saying that they are not any too bright. With that in mind, I found my compromise of rolling off the fronts (which are closer and more directly in line with your ears) and NOT rolling off the rears since they are behind the seat backs and not directly in line with your ears... (I don't particularly care what the sound is like for the rear passengers... unless they are making the car payment) to be the best overall configuration for MOST listeners. THEY ALL FOUR GET THE 3.9 OHM TWEETER "CUT" RESISTOR and terminator mod... I'd stick to that initial setup, and give things a listen... If you find things are still too bright or too soft... You can go back in and make adjustments after your ears have adjusted to things. That's the nice thing about this mod... it can be changed or omitted... But I have been through that game over and over... and for me, this works out to be the best solution. IT'S NOT PERFECT... but it's about as good as you can make the stock system sound for $200-$300 in parts and NO MAJOR mods.
Continue on the original course, and see what you think... I believe that you'll be happy maybe even surprised at the improvement considering the costs and effort involved.
Keep up the good work... you're almost there!
Southbound
I don't think you'll be disappointed with the album song content, especially at the reasonable price. It's not like some $40 dollar box set where you have to wonder if it's worth buying another album with yet more versions of the same songs... These electric versions are fresh and exhuberating. What I mean't by it not being EC as slowhand... was that it's EC PICKIN' RIFFS with ruthless fury. The songs are more UP TEMPO than usual which is why I dubbed it Fasthand rather than slowhand. IT sounded a lot better in my house with the privacy of my super headphones... It still sounds mushy and muddy in the TLS... but gooooood stuff, nontheless! It might sound better on your home system as well. It needs to be played LOUD to be appreciated. YES, I have a DVD, I was one of the first to probably buy one. Back in 1998... I just LIKE MY CAR MUSIC... so I need a CD to play in the car... and I don't have a dvd player in my car or computer... or a CD burner
that's where I'm falling behind with technology. My home computer system is three years old... so you know what that means. BUT at least it's a PIII, 450Mhz, 256Mb RAM, It's not a total dog... but it doesn't have the current periphials I hope I haven't raved so much about the album that it won't meet your expectations... but I found it to be quite pleasing... wish I had gone to one of the concerts a year ago!
kennelm
Sounds like you've got everything very well in hand. If you let the RTV dry for 5 hours on the bench with a rubber band... It will be hard enough to stick for life. You know what you're doing! As far as adding the rolloff cap to the rear door... I personally don't think I would go for it. As you have probably noticed... ASH, and BB, have commented that they think the highs are not bright enough... At least they are saying that they are not any too bright. With that in mind, I found my compromise of rolling off the fronts (which are closer and more directly in line with your ears) and NOT rolling off the rears since they are behind the seat backs and not directly in line with your ears... (I don't particularly care what the sound is like for the rear passengers... unless they are making the car payment) to be the best overall configuration for MOST listeners. THEY ALL FOUR GET THE 3.9 OHM TWEETER "CUT" RESISTOR and terminator mod... I'd stick to that initial setup, and give things a listen... If you find things are still too bright or too soft... You can go back in and make adjustments after your ears have adjusted to things. That's the nice thing about this mod... it can be changed or omitted... But I have been through that game over and over... and for me, this works out to be the best solution. IT'S NOT PERFECT... but it's about as good as you can make the stock system sound for $200-$300 in parts and NO MAJOR mods.
Continue on the original course, and see what you think... I believe that you'll be happy maybe even surprised at the improvement considering the costs and effort involved.
Keep up the good work... you're almost there!
Southbound
11-13-2002, 01:53 PM
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Driver's Side Done!!
Well, I couldn't wait any longer, so I skipped out of work early today and installed the driver's side Polk. I just finished up, and my first 2-3 songs sound great! I do notice that I have to turn up the volume a couple more clicks to get the same loudness, but I can definitely feel and hear the additional punch from the bigger woofers. And, the Southbound mods appear to work great to correct the highs. I probably couldn't distinguish this Bose amp-Polk speaker setup from any other comparable setup.
Now, I have to find a few errands to run, so I can have an excuse to drive around for awhile ....
Next stop: rear speakers.
Thanks again, everyone!
Now, I have to find a few errands to run, so I can have an excuse to drive around for awhile ....
Next stop: rear speakers.
Thanks again, everyone!
11-13-2002, 04:03 PM
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Hey guys,
I also faced the same problems as kennelm, but I didn't tap the wires. Instead I went for southbound's third method, which was to use male lugs to attach to the stock harness. One end of the wire is soldered to the speaker and the other end has lugs attached which in turn attach to the harness.
Looks like I used too much length for the wire, cause when I rolled the windows down today, I lost the sound. I think the lugs must broken loose from the stock harness. Looks like I'll have to take doors apart again. Oh boy!!!! Don't know how long the poor door panels gonna stay intact.
Another thing I noticed is, When it rains, there's too much water seeping thru. I even noticed some water on the speaker itself (the rainshield if off, remember!). Hope its not bad. Any ideas?
I also faced the same problems as kennelm, but I didn't tap the wires. Instead I went for southbound's third method, which was to use male lugs to attach to the stock harness. One end of the wire is soldered to the speaker and the other end has lugs attached which in turn attach to the harness.
Looks like I used too much length for the wire, cause when I rolled the windows down today, I lost the sound. I think the lugs must broken loose from the stock harness. Looks like I'll have to take doors apart again. Oh boy!!!! Don't know how long the poor door panels gonna stay intact.
Another thing I noticed is, When it rains, there's too much water seeping thru. I even noticed some water on the speaker itself (the rainshield if off, remember!). Hope its not bad. Any ideas?
11-14-2002, 01:47 AM
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Good report Kennelm! The rear doors should go really easy. The door hole is the same size, and there is only one electrical connector. The volume is slightly down from the BLOSE speakers, but the FULL RANGE and clarity make up for it. But it also points to why a lot of other speakers require an extra amp to do them justice. A larger amp would help the DX6s as well, but the stock HU is just sufficient with their efficiency.
Ash,
I guess each and every one of us must learn our own lessons by ourselves. Sorry to hear about your window/harness issue. I have had no trouble with my install, but I have done this sort of thing all my life and take extra measures to be overly anal and overly careful about things...
As far as the rainshield issue... That was a concern back in the spring when the speaker replacement threads began. I personally spoke to three engineers at POLK specifically asking them about the rainshield issue. They all confirmed that the POLK DX6 DID NOT require a rainshield. If it did, one would be shipped in the box with the grille and wires, etc. They claimed that the materials were impervious to the moisture UNLESS it was really extreme... like from an old rust bucket. When I explained to them my situation about the Acura stock rainshield basket, and whether or not I should cut the ENTIRE back off, or leave some of it around the top half to protect against rain... they all replied that it was more important to make sure that the speaker had room to breath and port from the rear than to be concerned about a rain shield. In order to sound tight and provide volume, the speakers need room to breath on the backside of the cone. Acoustical loading by a basket or an insufficient mounting hole would diminish their sound quality and output. Someone did initially keep his rainshield intact by only cutting out the back louvers on the stock basket. However, they complained about a lack of volume and muddiness. After they finally decided to cut the full back off of the basket, they reported back about HOW MUCH better the speakers then sounded. So an open port is important... Actually most 6-1/2 inch speakers require a 5 inch or larger hole cutout for proper performance. The BLOSE hole is only slightly larger that 4 inches... so you need all of it that you can get. Acura/Bose sure didn't make it easy for simple upgrades. Thus, all the emphasis on these POLK DX6s... They are one of the few speakers that can be swapped out with relative ease... and still have enough volume to live with the stock HU while accomodating a relatively easy mod to tame the EQ beast. STILL, owners have problems with them when not being methodically careful with their installation.
That is direct from the source... However, I'm sure your report of that much wetness will raise some questions again. I also talked to some shops back then about what they used when they installed aftermarket speakers. I couldn't find any of them that said they made sure to install custom rainshields over their new speakers... If you're still concerned, you could ask around some shops as well to see what they recommend when installing new speakrs. Maybe some do have or make custom rainshields????
Perhaps StreetEffectz could shed some light on the subject. I would be interested to know his opinion about rainshields. Does he install them with every speaker he puts into a door frame? Or are they not neccessary with today's better speakers that are not made of cardboard???
Perhaps he will answer someone else's inquiry... For some reason, he has yet to ever directly respond to any of my posts? I respect his expertise and his opinion... I'm just not sure why he has never acknowledged me? No biggie... It's not a competition game here on the board... It's all about helping each other out with what we happen to know best.
Just in case... I have purchased two spare pairs of the DX6 just in case they do fall apart somehow, someday. Since I know they won't be available a year from now... I bought extras for $80bucks/pair back in the early summer. Cheap insurance I figured. If water does become a factor.... then we will all be in the business of making custom rainshields this winter. Yet, I have not heard any professionals opinion that says they are mandatory... time will tell, I guess.
Keep the updates coming and the information flowing...
Good luck!
Southbound
Ash,
I guess each and every one of us must learn our own lessons by ourselves. Sorry to hear about your window/harness issue. I have had no trouble with my install, but I have done this sort of thing all my life and take extra measures to be overly anal and overly careful about things...
As far as the rainshield issue... That was a concern back in the spring when the speaker replacement threads began. I personally spoke to three engineers at POLK specifically asking them about the rainshield issue. They all confirmed that the POLK DX6 DID NOT require a rainshield. If it did, one would be shipped in the box with the grille and wires, etc. They claimed that the materials were impervious to the moisture UNLESS it was really extreme... like from an old rust bucket. When I explained to them my situation about the Acura stock rainshield basket, and whether or not I should cut the ENTIRE back off, or leave some of it around the top half to protect against rain... they all replied that it was more important to make sure that the speaker had room to breath and port from the rear than to be concerned about a rain shield. In order to sound tight and provide volume, the speakers need room to breath on the backside of the cone. Acoustical loading by a basket or an insufficient mounting hole would diminish their sound quality and output. Someone did initially keep his rainshield intact by only cutting out the back louvers on the stock basket. However, they complained about a lack of volume and muddiness. After they finally decided to cut the full back off of the basket, they reported back about HOW MUCH better the speakers then sounded. So an open port is important... Actually most 6-1/2 inch speakers require a 5 inch or larger hole cutout for proper performance. The BLOSE hole is only slightly larger that 4 inches... so you need all of it that you can get. Acura/Bose sure didn't make it easy for simple upgrades. Thus, all the emphasis on these POLK DX6s... They are one of the few speakers that can be swapped out with relative ease... and still have enough volume to live with the stock HU while accomodating a relatively easy mod to tame the EQ beast. STILL, owners have problems with them when not being methodically careful with their installation.
That is direct from the source... However, I'm sure your report of that much wetness will raise some questions again. I also talked to some shops back then about what they used when they installed aftermarket speakers. I couldn't find any of them that said they made sure to install custom rainshields over their new speakers... If you're still concerned, you could ask around some shops as well to see what they recommend when installing new speakrs. Maybe some do have or make custom rainshields????
Perhaps StreetEffectz could shed some light on the subject. I would be interested to know his opinion about rainshields. Does he install them with every speaker he puts into a door frame? Or are they not neccessary with today's better speakers that are not made of cardboard???
Perhaps he will answer someone else's inquiry... For some reason, he has yet to ever directly respond to any of my posts? I respect his expertise and his opinion... I'm just not sure why he has never acknowledged me? No biggie... It's not a competition game here on the board... It's all about helping each other out with what we happen to know best.
Just in case... I have purchased two spare pairs of the DX6 just in case they do fall apart somehow, someday. Since I know they won't be available a year from now... I bought extras for $80bucks/pair back in the early summer. Cheap insurance I figured. If water does become a factor.... then we will all be in the business of making custom rainshields this winter. Yet, I have not heard any professionals opinion that says they are mandatory... time will tell, I guess.
Keep the updates coming and the information flowing...
Good luck!
Southbound
11-14-2002, 09:23 PM
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Southbound,
I took my front doors apart again today, and re-did again. Put some duct tape around the harness and speaker wires. I'm still not getting the sound. I'm gonna check the rears tomorrow.
As far as Ron is concerned, he's pretty busy nowdays. He offered me to re-do the cascade installation, but I have to yet find a suitable time for both of us. He's a great guy, u know, somebody else would have just refused to do it again. He said he'd even bear the cost of cascade if needed.
Anyway, friday is my last day at work (I'm getting laid-off), so I guess I'll find plenty of time after that. I'll check up with him and post abt what he thinks abt the rainshield. Just hope that the speakers are not screwed up.
I took my front doors apart again today, and re-did again. Put some duct tape around the harness and speaker wires. I'm still not getting the sound. I'm gonna check the rears tomorrow.
As far as Ron is concerned, he's pretty busy nowdays. He offered me to re-do the cascade installation, but I have to yet find a suitable time for both of us. He's a great guy, u know, somebody else would have just refused to do it again. He said he'd even bear the cost of cascade if needed.
Anyway, friday is my last day at work (I'm getting laid-off), so I guess I'll find plenty of time after that. I'll check up with him and post abt what he thinks abt the rainshield. Just hope that the speakers are not screwed up.
11-14-2002, 10:16 PM
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ash,
Are you not getting any sound out of ANY of the door speakers? If that's the case, then you have a short on one of the speaker lines. A short on any one line will cause the amp to shutdown and go into self protect mode. A few people have experienced this bummer, but all have revived the system once they found the short. The amp comes back to life by itself once the short is removed. Unfortunately, there is no easy way to determine WHICH door or doors have the short. Some have had luck by thumping on the door and find the sound come back intermittently. This lead them to at least know which door had the shorted line. Some have had the terminal leads work their way through the duct tape and cause shorts a few weeks after their install... All I can say is check EVERTHING. With all door speakers out and all wiring exposed... you should be able to hook things back up one by one just to see if a particular speaker has a short internally or perhaps with one of the mods?
Sorry to hear about the layoff... these are not fun times in the good ole USA. I know Ron is a standup guy. I totally respect what he does for his customers and what he has done for this board.
It's all good!
Hope you find your problem soon!
Southbound
Are you not getting any sound out of ANY of the door speakers? If that's the case, then you have a short on one of the speaker lines. A short on any one line will cause the amp to shutdown and go into self protect mode. A few people have experienced this bummer, but all have revived the system once they found the short. The amp comes back to life by itself once the short is removed. Unfortunately, there is no easy way to determine WHICH door or doors have the short. Some have had luck by thumping on the door and find the sound come back intermittently. This lead them to at least know which door had the shorted line. Some have had the terminal leads work their way through the duct tape and cause shorts a few weeks after their install... All I can say is check EVERTHING. With all door speakers out and all wiring exposed... you should be able to hook things back up one by one just to see if a particular speaker has a short internally or perhaps with one of the mods?
Sorry to hear about the layoff... these are not fun times in the good ole USA. I know Ron is a standup guy. I totally respect what he does for his customers and what he has done for this board.
It's all good!
Hope you find your problem soon!
Southbound
11-14-2002, 10:26 PM
#60
SOUTHBOUND......
I'm sorry I rarely every post within your threads, I just feel that you answer everyone's questions so well, what more could I possibly add to help. Your responses are so in depth that I can't imagine anyone having any problems understanding anything they didn't before your help.
Anyway, as for rain guards.....today's cars are usually equipped with a lip under the rubber slider at the top of the window to deflect any moisture to the outer edge of the inside channel of the door. Unfortunately, this doesn't always keep moisture off the speakers. Usually what I do, with the expection of the rear doors, is place a pvc lip over the top of the speaker to insure water not dripping directly onto the back of the magnet. I accomplish this by attaching it to the 3/4" MDF spacer I fabricate when replacing speakers. It's nothing hard, but worth it in the long run in protecting your speakers.
ASH......
When you come back in, I'll be more than happy to check the front door install when I redo your dynamat/cascade, no problem at all. Sorry I haven't been able to answer the phone much, just trying to finish that show truck that I've had for the past several months so I can resume a normal schedule
I'm sorry I rarely every post within your threads, I just feel that you answer everyone's questions so well, what more could I possibly add to help. Your responses are so in depth that I can't imagine anyone having any problems understanding anything they didn't before your help.
Anyway, as for rain guards.....today's cars are usually equipped with a lip under the rubber slider at the top of the window to deflect any moisture to the outer edge of the inside channel of the door. Unfortunately, this doesn't always keep moisture off the speakers. Usually what I do, with the expection of the rear doors, is place a pvc lip over the top of the speaker to insure water not dripping directly onto the back of the magnet. I accomplish this by attaching it to the 3/4" MDF spacer I fabricate when replacing speakers. It's nothing hard, but worth it in the long run in protecting your speakers.
ASH......
When you come back in, I'll be more than happy to check the front door install when I redo your dynamat/cascade, no problem at all. Sorry I haven't been able to answer the phone much, just trying to finish that show truck that I've had for the past several months so I can resume a normal schedule
11-14-2002, 10:49 PM
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Ron,
Hey thanks for the courtesy reply and for the rainshield help. I guess I completely understand your position. I guess I rarely post into your threads either, because you have such a lot more expertise with CUSTOM SUPER UPGRADES than I do. I only have a good understanding of audio theory and concepts. I have little contemporary experience with today's car audio aftermarket amplifiers, headunits, speakers, and intallation/wiring techniques. Especially when it comes to subwoofers. So thanks for the mutual respect, and for your help!
Southbound
Hey thanks for the courtesy reply and for the rainshield help. I guess I completely understand your position. I guess I rarely post into your threads either, because you have such a lot more expertise with CUSTOM SUPER UPGRADES than I do. I only have a good understanding of audio theory and concepts. I have little contemporary experience with today's car audio aftermarket amplifiers, headunits, speakers, and intallation/wiring techniques. Especially when it comes to subwoofers. So thanks for the mutual respect, and for your help!
Southbound
11-15-2002, 09:48 AM
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Southbound,
No sound from any of the doors. The only sound I get is from the sub. I checked the fronts for the short. Everything looks allright, except the water shouldn't have screwed something up. Lets hope its not the speaker. Its hard to find one of those nowdays, you know. I should've stocked them up like you.
I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the reply.
No sound from any of the doors. The only sound I get is from the sub. I checked the fronts for the short. Everything looks allright, except the water shouldn't have screwed something up. Lets hope its not the speaker. Its hard to find one of those nowdays, you know. I should've stocked them up like you.
I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the reply.
11-16-2002, 01:30 AM
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ash,
yeah, you've definitely got a short on one or more of the speaker wires. The first bit of water wouldn't short out the speaker voicecoil The voicecoil is wound with hard varnished bell wire... just like a transformer. The worry about water, would be that it could eventually rot out the cone or suspension material... But Polk engineers have told me that the materials are water resistant and shouldn't require rainshields. You could have a short on one of the speaker terminals or one of the mod component leads to the metal door frame or across each other. Did you use sleeving on all of your mod components? If not, they could get moved around and short out on each other. This scenario of no door speakers, just sub output has been somewhat of a problem with the DX6 install. The door hole cutout is just too damn small... The speaker terminals ESPECIALLY the side terminal where the factory crossover cap is soldered should be bent up or in to prevent resting against the door frame. While I had my soldering iron out to install the mods... I unsoldered the crossover cap, CUT THE SIDE TERMINAL OFF WITH A PAIR OF CUTTERS and resoldered the crossover cap to the center of the terminal where the rivet is. This makes sure that that side mount terminal can't rub against the door frame. I'm sure you'll eventually find your short. I REALLY doubt that it will be the POLK itself. It will be a terminal or component lead cutting through the duct tape and shorting to the door frame, or the mod components shorting out against each other, or a wire that has been pulled off of the speaker and shorting out in the bottom of the door frame.
Worst case, take all door panels off and disconnect ALL speakers.... Then connect one at a time with extended leads so that the speaker is in your hand for a test. The individual speaker should play... Try this out with all four speakers in your hand to make sure that they all work before mounting them back in their holes. If one speaker DOESN"T work... then double check all of your mod work and if you have an ohm meter... CHECK THE RESISTANCE ACROSS THE MAIN SPEAKER TERMINALS... the terminals that the speaker wires connect to should read around 3.5ohms to 4ohms. If you read a dead short, then something is wrong with the speaker or the way that the mods have been wired to it.
Worst case... RON (streeteffectz) has posted that he has SEVERAL pairs of the DX6s for sale for like $105 bucks shipped NEW. He has evidently scored some and I would recommend and refer anyone interested in the POLK DX6 upgrade to buy their speakers from him. So you'll be cool... just take your time to find the short and to double protect the area where you find the problem. I wouldn't power the Head Unit except for testing until you find the short. It will be stressing the outputs and running very HOT while in the self protect mode. It's best not to keep pushing that circuitry indefinitely.
as always... GOOD LUCK!
Southbound
yeah, you've definitely got a short on one or more of the speaker wires. The first bit of water wouldn't short out the speaker voicecoil The voicecoil is wound with hard varnished bell wire... just like a transformer. The worry about water, would be that it could eventually rot out the cone or suspension material... But Polk engineers have told me that the materials are water resistant and shouldn't require rainshields. You could have a short on one of the speaker terminals or one of the mod component leads to the metal door frame or across each other. Did you use sleeving on all of your mod components? If not, they could get moved around and short out on each other. This scenario of no door speakers, just sub output has been somewhat of a problem with the DX6 install. The door hole cutout is just too damn small... The speaker terminals ESPECIALLY the side terminal where the factory crossover cap is soldered should be bent up or in to prevent resting against the door frame. While I had my soldering iron out to install the mods... I unsoldered the crossover cap, CUT THE SIDE TERMINAL OFF WITH A PAIR OF CUTTERS and resoldered the crossover cap to the center of the terminal where the rivet is. This makes sure that that side mount terminal can't rub against the door frame. I'm sure you'll eventually find your short. I REALLY doubt that it will be the POLK itself. It will be a terminal or component lead cutting through the duct tape and shorting to the door frame, or the mod components shorting out against each other, or a wire that has been pulled off of the speaker and shorting out in the bottom of the door frame.
Worst case, take all door panels off and disconnect ALL speakers.... Then connect one at a time with extended leads so that the speaker is in your hand for a test. The individual speaker should play... Try this out with all four speakers in your hand to make sure that they all work before mounting them back in their holes. If one speaker DOESN"T work... then double check all of your mod work and if you have an ohm meter... CHECK THE RESISTANCE ACROSS THE MAIN SPEAKER TERMINALS... the terminals that the speaker wires connect to should read around 3.5ohms to 4ohms. If you read a dead short, then something is wrong with the speaker or the way that the mods have been wired to it.
Worst case... RON (streeteffectz) has posted that he has SEVERAL pairs of the DX6s for sale for like $105 bucks shipped NEW. He has evidently scored some and I would recommend and refer anyone interested in the POLK DX6 upgrade to buy their speakers from him. So you'll be cool... just take your time to find the short and to double protect the area where you find the problem. I wouldn't power the Head Unit except for testing until you find the short. It will be stressing the outputs and running very HOT while in the self protect mode. It's best not to keep pushing that circuitry indefinitely.
as always... GOOD LUCK!
Southbound
11-16-2002, 12:05 PM
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Southbound,
I checked my rear door speakers yesterday and found out that rear driver side speaker was indeed shorting with door metal.
So I fixed that.
I have done exactly as u were posting. All the components of the mod have sleeving, the speaker terminal are bent and covered up with insulating tape, duct tape around the door speaker hole, duct tape around the harness and speaker wire etc.
I have my sound back and I'm happy again.
Thanks southbound for the support.
I checked my rear door speakers yesterday and found out that rear driver side speaker was indeed shorting with door metal.
So I fixed that.
I have done exactly as u were posting. All the components of the mod have sleeving, the speaker terminal are bent and covered up with insulating tape, duct tape around the door speaker hole, duct tape around the harness and speaker wire etc.
I have my sound back and I'm happy again.
Thanks southbound for the support.
11-21-2002, 11:38 PM
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Picture of POLK DX6 Mods
Hi all,
Just completed installing the DX6's over the weekend and they defininately produce much more clarity and are remarkably more musical than the stock BLOSE!! Here is a photo of my speaker mods that I mentioned I would post. Hope it helps. The install very smoothly with the help of all of your detailed instructions. Cheers!
Just completed installing the DX6's over the weekend and they defininately produce much more clarity and are remarkably more musical than the stock BLOSE!! Here is a photo of my speaker mods that I mentioned I would post. Hope it helps. The install very smoothly with the help of all of your detailed instructions. Cheers!
11-22-2002, 03:53 AM
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GREAT WORK! This is the way to go. Just make sure to add some RTV to hold down the 5watt resistor and rolloff cap so that they don't vibrate and buzz or rattle during loud music.
THIS PICTURE IS WORTH A THOUSAND WORDS! I couldn't have described things any better.
THANKS Y2K!
Southbound
THIS PICTURE IS WORTH A THOUSAND WORDS! I couldn't have described things any better.
THANKS Y2K!
Southbound
12-09-2002, 04:22 PM
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Rear's Done
I finally got the rear Polks installed. It sounds much better now. SB was right: 4 polks are better than 2. Many thanks to Southbound and others for posting all the info.
BTW, I installed the rears without the rolloff cap, per the instructions. I have to say I can't really tell that much difference between the rears and the front (with the rolloff cap). I sat in the back seat to see if I could tell. I'm wondering how much of a difference the rolloff cap makes, as compared to the power resistor? I assume the power resistor is cutting the tweeters significantly.
Anyway, project done. Anyone need some BOSE speakers?
SB was right: 4 polks are better than 2. Many thanks to Southbound and others for posting all the info.BTW, I installed the rears without the rolloff cap, per the instructions. I have to say I can't really tell that much difference between the rears and the front (with the rolloff cap). I sat in the back seat to see if I could tell. I'm wondering how much of a difference the rolloff cap makes, as compared to the power resistor? I assume the power resistor is cutting the tweeters significantly.
Anyway, project done. Anyone need some BOSE speakers?
12-10-2002, 07:28 AM
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www.onlinecarstereo.com $109.00 /pair
12-11-2002, 01:32 AM
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kennelm,
The difference that you would hear with or without the extra rolloff cap would partically depend upon the particular recording. Some are brighter than others... But you are right... the tweeter cutdown resistor is knocking down most of the brightness starting at 3Khz, while the rolloff cap only kicks in at 10Khz. Actually the rolloff cap allows you to turn up the treble on the headunit without becoming too "hissy or sibilant" while increasing the midrange and midhighs to a level more suitable to most listeners. This also allows one to get the most "overall" volume out of the DX6 by being able to turn it up all the way without getting that splish, splash, pssst, psssst, sound.
Not everyone will have the same listening prefereces... And you are certainly free to experiment with values in the mod. But I did do a LOT of that by myself and came up with these values and configuration as the best compromise. I found that the biggest culprit to the sound was the damn door panel! I really liked the way things sounded with these mods and the door panels off. The small plastic holes and grill cloth significantly reduce the clarity and brilliance of the sound. I have been tempted to try and cut out the door panel speaker hole plastic cover with all of its little holes. But I'm too afraid of messing up and cutting through the grill cloth in the process. Or the BIG hole wouldn't protect the speaker well enough, and somebody's knee would eventually stretch or poke through the grill cloth
Anybody else listen to their speakers WITHOUT the door panels on? If so, did you find that the door panels muffled the sound when put back on? I sure did... I'd be curious to know if anyone else noticed the same thing, and if they have a way to safely deal with it cosmetically????
Thanks!
SB
The difference that you would hear with or without the extra rolloff cap would partically depend upon the particular recording. Some are brighter than others... But you are right... the tweeter cutdown resistor is knocking down most of the brightness starting at 3Khz, while the rolloff cap only kicks in at 10Khz. Actually the rolloff cap allows you to turn up the treble on the headunit without becoming too "hissy or sibilant" while increasing the midrange and midhighs to a level more suitable to most listeners. This also allows one to get the most "overall" volume out of the DX6 by being able to turn it up all the way without getting that splish, splash, pssst, psssst, sound.
Not everyone will have the same listening prefereces... And you are certainly free to experiment with values in the mod. But I did do a LOT of that by myself and came up with these values and configuration as the best compromise. I found that the biggest culprit to the sound was the damn door panel! I really liked the way things sounded with these mods and the door panels off. The small plastic holes and grill cloth significantly reduce the clarity and brilliance of the sound. I have been tempted to try and cut out the door panel speaker hole plastic cover with all of its little holes. But I'm too afraid of messing up and cutting through the grill cloth in the process. Or the BIG hole wouldn't protect the speaker well enough, and somebody's knee would eventually stretch or poke through the grill cloth
Anybody else listen to their speakers WITHOUT the door panels on? If so, did you find that the door panels muffled the sound when put back on? I sure did... I'd be curious to know if anyone else noticed the same thing, and if they have a way to safely deal with it cosmetically????
Thanks!
SB
12-11-2002, 08:58 AM
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Southbound,
I am very happy with the result and do not question your analysis at all. My guess is that the solution you arrived at is the best one. I was just curious as the the degree of effect the rolloff cap has. And it sounds like it has less effect than does the power resistor, since the rolloff cap kicks in and corrects the higher freqs.
I am just a little curious as to how the Polks would have sounded straight up, then with the resistor, and then with both the resistor and the rolloff cap. But, it's all done, and I'm not about to mess with it now
I didn't really play my speakers much while the door panels were off. Only long enough to verify that they worked. Would be interested if anyone comes up with a way to get more clarity by moding the door panel opening...
I am very happy with the result and do not question your analysis at all. My guess is that the solution you arrived at is the best one. I was just curious as the the degree of effect the rolloff cap has. And it sounds like it has less effect than does the power resistor, since the rolloff cap kicks in and corrects the higher freqs.
I am just a little curious as to how the Polks would have sounded straight up, then with the resistor, and then with both the resistor and the rolloff cap. But, it's all done, and I'm not about to mess with it now
I didn't really play my speakers much while the door panels were off. Only long enough to verify that they worked. Would be interested if anyone comes up with a way to get more clarity by moding the door panel opening...
12-12-2002, 02:19 AM
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kennelm,
I understand your curiousity. I arrived at the final mod by an evolutionary process. Believe me, I'm the anal type and need to prove things for myself.
I started out by installing the DX6s STOCK for the first couple of months. They just sounded waaaay too bright with that factory EQ. They were too "thin" sounding without enough midrange punch. I just couldn't find a spot with the treble and bass controls that made things sound decent, although I was CONSTANTLY fiddling with them.
So I went through the EQ bypass routine... This made the speakers sound nice, but there wasn't enough volume to drive them (or even the Blose) loud enough. So I put the EQ back and went on to my mod process.
I first came up with the resistor only gag, and listened to things that way for a week. It was better, but still lacked midrange presence. I then experimented with different values for the rolloff cap and did MANY listening runs. I ended up convinced with the values that you now have installed.
I sometimes wonder if the rolloff cap is still neccessary, because I usually set my treble control up 2 or 3 clicks. BUT then I keep remembering how I got to my final configuration.... If I take off the rolloff cap, then I will end up turning down the treble control to maintain the hiss, hiss and pssst, pssst sounds. This will end up with a bit of a hole in the upper midrange (vocals, guitar solos)... since the rolloff cap only affects signals above 10khz and the HU treble control affects signals much sooner at around a few Khz.
I hope that the design process has eased your curiousity a bit. It wasn't a rash decision. I was trying to correct for the overall sound, not just the extreme highs... and the factory EQ made that next to impossible.
The only better way to tame the BLOSE EQ beast would be to install the Three.1 EQ that BFOR3 brought to the board. Then the system would have enough gain and three EQ controls. That way the speakers wouldn't need any rolloff mods at all.... but of course that would probably only lead to the need for a better amp, etc. Each improvement just leads to the next... It's hard to know when to say when...
SB
I understand your curiousity. I arrived at the final mod by an evolutionary process. Believe me, I'm the anal type and need to prove things for myself.
I started out by installing the DX6s STOCK for the first couple of months. They just sounded waaaay too bright with that factory EQ. They were too "thin" sounding without enough midrange punch. I just couldn't find a spot with the treble and bass controls that made things sound decent, although I was CONSTANTLY fiddling with them.
So I went through the EQ bypass routine... This made the speakers sound nice, but there wasn't enough volume to drive them (or even the Blose) loud enough. So I put the EQ back and went on to my mod process.
I first came up with the resistor only gag, and listened to things that way for a week. It was better, but still lacked midrange presence. I then experimented with different values for the rolloff cap and did MANY listening runs. I ended up convinced with the values that you now have installed.
I sometimes wonder if the rolloff cap is still neccessary, because I usually set my treble control up 2 or 3 clicks. BUT then I keep remembering how I got to my final configuration.... If I take off the rolloff cap, then I will end up turning down the treble control to maintain the hiss, hiss and pssst, pssst sounds. This will end up with a bit of a hole in the upper midrange (vocals, guitar solos)... since the rolloff cap only affects signals above 10khz and the HU treble control affects signals much sooner at around a few Khz.
I hope that the design process has eased your curiousity a bit. It wasn't a rash decision. I was trying to correct for the overall sound, not just the extreme highs... and the factory EQ made that next to impossible.
The only better way to tame the BLOSE EQ beast would be to install the Three.1 EQ that BFOR3 brought to the board. Then the system would have enough gain and three EQ controls. That way the speakers wouldn't need any rolloff mods at all.... but of course that would probably only lead to the need for a better amp, etc. Each improvement just leads to the next... It's hard to know when to say when...
SB
03-12-2003, 07:43 AM
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Originally posted by StreetEffectz
I just installed these in a customer's TL today....where's this unbelievable difference everyone is talking about????
I just installed these in a customer's TL today....where's this unbelievable difference everyone is talking about????
Southbound suggested that you may have some Polk DX6 speakers in stock at your shop. I already ordered 1 set before reading that, but I also need another set. If you do have or can get them, would your company do the mods for me?
Please let me know if you can help.
sundial2k
sundial2k@hotmail.com
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