Polk Audio PLK EX365
12-22-2002, 09:57 PM
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Polk Audio PLK EX365
They have these speakers at Circuit City, are they as easy to install as the DX-6? Has anyone installed them there self? I am new to car audio installing but I would be thrilled if I could upgrade my system for $200.
12-23-2002, 01:24 AM
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I don't know of anyone who has actually installed them. I have physically looked at them and they should fit with ONE exception. The hole pattern in the door frame is only three screws in a triangle. Not all of the holes on the EX365 line up with these three. However, there is an indentation at the top of the speaker marking where a hole could be drilled. Drill a hole in that spot, and the speaker should fit into the stock door frame/mounting holes.
It is my opinion that ANY speaker WITH A TWEETER... be it a coaxial or a component system... would require some kind of high frequency rolloff to counteract the factory EQ. Some higher end component speakers may have a separate crossover that allows for a 3db or 6db, tweeter "cut" circuit. Still a cut only circuit isn't quite as good as an actual rolloff curve that more closely follows the boost curve.
That is why the DX6 is such a convenient choice. Yes, as debated on other threads, component speakers will in the end sound better than coxial speakers. But there is more work and expense involved. Also component speakers tend to not be as efficient, yet tend to also handle more power... So once you jump to the component level of an upgrade you might as well add an aftermarket amp in order to fully appreciate them. Then, Once you add this additional amp, you might as well BYPASS THE EQ which is, again, another level of time, money, and work and another league of upgrade.
It all depends upon how much of an upgrade you want to aim for.
Streeteffectz still has availability of the DX6 speaker. I believe he is selling them for like $105 bucks shipped. I would try to score from him before settling on the EX365. BUT, the EX365 speaker is a couple of DB more efficient than the DX6 and probably the most efficient coaxial that I've seen. (that doesn't mean it's the best sounding coaxial out there, but it will provide one of the loudest volumes from the stock HU) It has a rotating silk dome tweeter, that would allow you to possibly get by without the rolloff mod by positioning the tweeter downward??? (although that is not the preferred positioning for sound staging... so I'd probably listen to them stock first, and then add the rolloff if needed. Check the back of the speaker to make sure that the tweeter wires and factory crossover cap are accessable. If not... it will be very difficult to perform the mod without doing major surgery.
"Thus the fuss" for the DX6s before they are all gone...
Good Luck!
Southbound
It is my opinion that ANY speaker WITH A TWEETER... be it a coaxial or a component system... would require some kind of high frequency rolloff to counteract the factory EQ. Some higher end component speakers may have a separate crossover that allows for a 3db or 6db, tweeter "cut" circuit. Still a cut only circuit isn't quite as good as an actual rolloff curve that more closely follows the boost curve.
That is why the DX6 is such a convenient choice. Yes, as debated on other threads, component speakers will in the end sound better than coxial speakers. But there is more work and expense involved. Also component speakers tend to not be as efficient, yet tend to also handle more power... So once you jump to the component level of an upgrade you might as well add an aftermarket amp in order to fully appreciate them. Then, Once you add this additional amp, you might as well BYPASS THE EQ which is, again, another level of time, money, and work and another league of upgrade.
It all depends upon how much of an upgrade you want to aim for.
Streeteffectz still has availability of the DX6 speaker. I believe he is selling them for like $105 bucks shipped. I would try to score from him before settling on the EX365. BUT, the EX365 speaker is a couple of DB more efficient than the DX6 and probably the most efficient coaxial that I've seen. (that doesn't mean it's the best sounding coaxial out there, but it will provide one of the loudest volumes from the stock HU) It has a rotating silk dome tweeter, that would allow you to possibly get by without the rolloff mod by positioning the tweeter downward??? (although that is not the preferred positioning for sound staging... so I'd probably listen to them stock first, and then add the rolloff if needed. Check the back of the speaker to make sure that the tweeter wires and factory crossover cap are accessable. If not... it will be very difficult to perform the mod without doing major surgery.
"Thus the fuss" for the DX6s before they are all gone...
Good Luck!
Southbound
12-23-2002, 02:53 AM
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Wow, thanks for all the great info. I would rather start with EX365's because if I don’t like them I can return them to circuit city. Does anyone have speaker installation instructions for dummies?
12-23-2002, 05:58 PM
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Courtesy of Allenc45:
I found this old post. If you need more info, just do a search for "door removal" and start reading...
Here is some info that the first time installer on a 02' TL-S might find useful. Sorry that I didn't take any pics :
To get the door panels off:
EASY! Thought this would be hard as hell. First thing, theres a little screw cover in the door lever housing. Pop this with a little knife or screwdriver, then remove the screw (#2 Philips). Push the whole door lever assembly forward about 1/2", then pull it out towards you (the driver door is the hardest). It should pop out of the door panel, but not by much - it's being held in by the metal rod that connects the lever to the actual locking mechanism in the door. To get that rod off, you have to remove the plastic "clasp" that holds it to the lever by turning it 90 degrees. You may need a screwdriver to help pop the clasp off the rod. Once the clasp is off, you can just pull the rod off the lever. For the front doors, you'll also have to remove some wiring harnesses, easy for the most part, but watch the driver side assembly - it has 3-4 different connectors to remove.
After the lever assembly is out, look for a large screwhole in the middle of the door and use a long #2 screwdriver to get that screw out. Now you can start popping the plastic door panel clasps. There are several on all the door panels, just start at one side of the door and pull gently until you hear the clasps pop out. DO NOT pull the panels more than a couple of inches from the door, because there are wires still attached to the door. At this point the only part of the door panel still firmly attached to the door itself should be the top, where it meets the window. You need to lift the left side of the door panel up (might have to pull back the outside corner slightly)so it clears the rail it's attached to, then slide it out (i.e., slide it left if it's the driver door panel), then lift the right side of the panel off the door. At this point the door panel should be free, but again, BE CAREFUL, there are still wires attached. One wiring harness for each rear door, several for the front doors (tons for the driver door). Remove these by squeezing on the release tabs of the wiring harnesses and gently pulling them out. You shouldn't have to remove any of the tape or anything else holding the wires in their place. The good news? The door panels go in even easier: Just re-attach the wire harnesses, slide the panel back onto the top rail (make sure to put the door lock "knob" back through the hole it belongs in), then slap all the plastic clasps back in. Attach the metal rod and plastic clasp to the door lever assembly (as well as wiring harnesses for the front doors, then reinstall those). Screw in the lever assembly and the main screw in the middle of the door. That's it!
Here is some info that the first time installer on a 02' TL-S might find useful. Sorry that I didn't take any pics :
To get the door panels off:
EASY! Thought this would be hard as hell. First thing, theres a little screw cover in the door lever housing. Pop this with a little knife or screwdriver, then remove the screw (#2 Philips). Push the whole door lever assembly forward about 1/2", then pull it out towards you (the driver door is the hardest). It should pop out of the door panel, but not by much - it's being held in by the metal rod that connects the lever to the actual locking mechanism in the door. To get that rod off, you have to remove the plastic "clasp" that holds it to the lever by turning it 90 degrees. You may need a screwdriver to help pop the clasp off the rod. Once the clasp is off, you can just pull the rod off the lever. For the front doors, you'll also have to remove some wiring harnesses, easy for the most part, but watch the driver side assembly - it has 3-4 different connectors to remove.
After the lever assembly is out, look for a large screwhole in the middle of the door and use a long #2 screwdriver to get that screw out. Now you can start popping the plastic door panel clasps. There are several on all the door panels, just start at one side of the door and pull gently until you hear the clasps pop out. DO NOT pull the panels more than a couple of inches from the door, because there are wires still attached to the door. At this point the only part of the door panel still firmly attached to the door itself should be the top, where it meets the window. You need to lift the left side of the door panel up (might have to pull back the outside corner slightly)so it clears the rail it's attached to, then slide it out (i.e., slide it left if it's the driver door panel), then lift the right side of the panel off the door. At this point the door panel should be free, but again, BE CAREFUL, there are still wires attached. One wiring harness for each rear door, several for the front doors (tons for the driver door). Remove these by squeezing on the release tabs of the wiring harnesses and gently pulling them out. You shouldn't have to remove any of the tape or anything else holding the wires in their place. The good news? The door panels go in even easier: Just re-attach the wire harnesses, slide the panel back onto the top rail (make sure to put the door lock "knob" back through the hole it belongs in), then slap all the plastic clasps back in. Attach the metal rod and plastic clasp to the door lever assembly (as well as wiring harnesses for the front doors, then reinstall those). Screw in the lever assembly and the main screw in the middle of the door. That's it!
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12-24-2002, 02:29 AM
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ferrari,
It REALLY isn't that difficult to do. ONE STEP AT A TIME... All you will need to do is to drill the one hole in the EX365 speaker (at the indentation at the top) Then you may or may not need to cut the back off of the factory plastic basket... If the speaker fits flush down into it... leave it as is... if the speaker magnet or speaker cone mount is too large, then you will need to cut off the plastic basket with a utility razor blade knife. LEAVE THE SPACER PART INTACT... You will need this to remount the new speaker Then all you have to do is make up two speaker connections. You will need to cut off the factory speaker connector and then make up new ends to the wires. You can either splice a small length of the new speaker wires (with terminals) that come with the new speakers to the old wire... or crimp on new terminals to the old wires. The terminals that you would need are all sold at Radio shack, along with a $5.00 dollar crimp tool. Bring in your new speaker wires and have them get you the proper terminals that you would crimp to the old wires to fit the new speakers. OR have them show you an "inline butt" splice connector. (THE RED SIZE, 22-18GA) This is a connector where you would strip the end off of each wire and insert them into opposite ends of a tubular connector. Then you crimp each end and "voila" you have a solid splice. (If you are really desperate... you could simply twist the wires together and tape them securely just to see how the speakers sound? This is not a recommended permanent mount, but would suffice for testing or until you gain more knowledge about the connector routine... JUST BE SURE to make the wiring SHORT! Tie it or tape it back to the factory harness... As you take the old speaker out... you will be able to feel the harness up against the inside of the door frame. (There are only three screws that hold the speaker in once you have the door panel off). The speaker wiring harness has a nylon snap a few inches below the speaker itself. This snap can be removed by pushing on it from the outside and this will gain you a lot more of the exposed wiring so that you don't have to work with your head inside the door. Then tie the new wiring up to that harness and snap the strain relief back in place to keep the wiring out of the way of the window. IF you have too much slack in the new wiring, the window will catch on it when it rolls down. THERE IS ONLY 1/4" BEHIND THE SPEAKER WHEN THE WINDOW IS ROLLED DOWN! This will yank off the wires and short them out in the bottom of the door frame. You don't want that... others have learned the hard way.
JUST BE SURE to insulate any bare wires or terminals. Also PUT SOME LAYERS OF DUCT TAPE AROUND THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR HOLE CUTOUT to make sure that nothing shorts out to it.
I would help if I could... but sadly, money wouldn't be the issue. It would be cheaper for you to pay an installer than to get me involved. I would help for free, but I can't get started helping everyone. That's what this board is for... You'll get it done, and be PROUD of your efforts.
This is not a flame in any way... but this is the part that systek doesn't seem to understand... I'm trying to create an upgrade that allows complete novice installers to complete the task. Those same novices would never be comfortable with the scope of his suggestions...
ALSO MAKE SURE TO HAVE THE POLARITY CORRECT ON THE NEW SPEAKERS.
The new speakers should have a plus marked at the positive terminal. Usually the two terminals are of different sizes. The larger sized terminal is the positive lead... I'm sure the owners manual will help you to identify the polarity.
Here are the color codes of the four door speakers wiring:
LEFT FRONT
+ Red/Grn
- Brn/Blk
RIGHT FRONT
+ Blu/Grn
- Gry/Blk
LEFT REAR
+ Blu/Yel
- Gry/Wht
RIGHT REAR
+ Red/Yel
- Brn/Wht
GOOD LUCK! Keep us posted on your progress...
Southbound
It REALLY isn't that difficult to do. ONE STEP AT A TIME... All you will need to do is to drill the one hole in the EX365 speaker (at the indentation at the top) Then you may or may not need to cut the back off of the factory plastic basket... If the speaker fits flush down into it... leave it as is... if the speaker magnet or speaker cone mount is too large, then you will need to cut off the plastic basket with a utility razor blade knife. LEAVE THE SPACER PART INTACT... You will need this to remount the new speaker Then all you have to do is make up two speaker connections. You will need to cut off the factory speaker connector and then make up new ends to the wires. You can either splice a small length of the new speaker wires (with terminals) that come with the new speakers to the old wire... or crimp on new terminals to the old wires. The terminals that you would need are all sold at Radio shack, along with a $5.00 dollar crimp tool. Bring in your new speaker wires and have them get you the proper terminals that you would crimp to the old wires to fit the new speakers. OR have them show you an "inline butt" splice connector. (THE RED SIZE, 22-18GA) This is a connector where you would strip the end off of each wire and insert them into opposite ends of a tubular connector. Then you crimp each end and "voila" you have a solid splice. (If you are really desperate... you could simply twist the wires together and tape them securely just to see how the speakers sound? This is not a recommended permanent mount, but would suffice for testing or until you gain more knowledge about the connector routine... JUST BE SURE to make the wiring SHORT! Tie it or tape it back to the factory harness... As you take the old speaker out... you will be able to feel the harness up against the inside of the door frame. (There are only three screws that hold the speaker in once you have the door panel off). The speaker wiring harness has a nylon snap a few inches below the speaker itself. This snap can be removed by pushing on it from the outside and this will gain you a lot more of the exposed wiring so that you don't have to work with your head inside the door. Then tie the new wiring up to that harness and snap the strain relief back in place to keep the wiring out of the way of the window. IF you have too much slack in the new wiring, the window will catch on it when it rolls down. THERE IS ONLY 1/4" BEHIND THE SPEAKER WHEN THE WINDOW IS ROLLED DOWN! This will yank off the wires and short them out in the bottom of the door frame. You don't want that... others have learned the hard way.
JUST BE SURE to insulate any bare wires or terminals. Also PUT SOME LAYERS OF DUCT TAPE AROUND THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR HOLE CUTOUT to make sure that nothing shorts out to it.
I would help if I could... but sadly, money wouldn't be the issue. It would be cheaper for you to pay an installer than to get me involved. I would help for free, but I can't get started helping everyone. That's what this board is for... You'll get it done, and be PROUD of your efforts.
This is not a flame in any way... but this is the part that systek doesn't seem to understand... I'm trying to create an upgrade that allows complete novice installers to complete the task. Those same novices would never be comfortable with the scope of his suggestions...
ALSO MAKE SURE TO HAVE THE POLARITY CORRECT ON THE NEW SPEAKERS.
The new speakers should have a plus marked at the positive terminal. Usually the two terminals are of different sizes. The larger sized terminal is the positive lead... I'm sure the owners manual will help you to identify the polarity.
Here are the color codes of the four door speakers wiring:
LEFT FRONT
+ Red/Grn
- Brn/Blk
RIGHT FRONT
+ Blu/Grn
- Gry/Blk
LEFT REAR
+ Blu/Yel
- Gry/Wht
RIGHT REAR
+ Red/Yel
- Brn/Wht
GOOD LUCK! Keep us posted on your progress...
Southbound
12-24-2002, 05:36 AM
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Originally posted by Southbound
This is not a flame in any way... but this is the part that systek doesn't seem to understand... I'm trying to create an upgrade that allows complete novice installers to complete the task. Those same novices would never be comfortable with the scope of his suggestions...
Southbound
This is not a flame in any way... but this is the part that systek doesn't seem to understand... I'm trying to create an upgrade that allows complete novice installers to complete the task. Those same novices would never be comfortable with the scope of his suggestions...
Southbound
btw, ferrari, if i lived close to ya, id personally help ya. ive never had problems having ppl come over to my house, use my garage and toolz when they are doing something to their car over a lazy saturday morning...whether i work on my car or not
12-24-2002, 01:07 PM
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Thanks again southbound, although you could do this in your sleep in am still a little timid. I am going to take the door panel off today and see what I am getting into. If I end up psyching my self out where would be a good place to have this done, I don't trust places like circuit city. And thanks systek if I ever go to Texas I will drop by.
12-24-2002, 11:52 PM
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Keep in mind ferrari527, once you drill into the speaker basket, you won't be able to return them to Circuit City. Your best bet would be to go with the DX6 if it's your first install. Southbound has already done all of the leg work to let us know that it's a direct replacement.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
12-25-2002, 02:15 AM
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Originally posted by systek
where in CA do u live...one of the best places in the USA is in cerritos, ca, at speakerwerks....
where in CA do u live...one of the best places in the USA is in cerritos, ca, at speakerwerks....
12-25-2002, 02:29 AM
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Found it! http://www.teamcsw.com/ If anyone if interested. I will check it out after christmas.
12-25-2002, 04:20 PM
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Originally posted by ferrari527
Found it! http://www.teamcsw.com/ If anyone if interested. I will check it out after christmas.
Found it! http://www.teamcsw.com/ If anyone if interested. I will check it out after christmas.
make sure to go through some of their picture books, cause u really have to see what they have done in the past.
12-25-2002, 04:22 PM
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Good point, bozz...
I hadn't thought of the return policy. So yeah, I would just install them with two screws FIRST to see how they sound... or better yet, buy the DX6 or a better speaker from streeteffectz...
Good luck!
SB
I hadn't thought of the return policy. So yeah, I would just install them with two screws FIRST to see how they sound... or better yet, buy the DX6 or a better speaker from streeteffectz...
Good luck!
SB
12-25-2002, 07:27 PM
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Originally posted by Southbound
Good point, bozz...
I hadn't thought of the return policy. So yeah, I would just install them with two screws FIRST to see how they sound... or better yet, buy the DX6 or a better speaker from streeteffectz...
Good luck!
SB
Good point, bozz...
I hadn't thought of the return policy. So yeah, I would just install them with two screws FIRST to see how they sound... or better yet, buy the DX6 or a better speaker from streeteffectz...
Good luck!
SB
12-27-2002, 01:00 AM
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The baffle idea is a good one for this sort of thing.
On the other hand, if you're taking your car into a shop to have them install speakers... especially a reknowned shop... I'd probably pop for the extra cash to have them custom mount better speakers and or amps, etc. The DX6 mod was intended to be a basic yet effective beginners upgrade with good results, while being simple enough that even unexperienced people could perform the replacement.
Once you take the leap of going to a GOOD shop, you have MANY MANY better options. At that point, it's just a matter of money... and a level of confidence that you have with the shop tearing apart your car, etc.
I really think that you could install the EX365 speakers by yourself if you just go slow, one step at a time. If you still end up going to a shop for comfort sake... then I'd look into jumping up to BETTER speakers. The factory EQ may still be an obstacle that the shop may or may not be willing to deal with. and then, once it's bypassed, you'll find that you really need an extra amp to power the aftermarket speakers... IT's an endless viscious cyle... Nothing is ever good enough, and you will ALWAYS want more!
Good Luck!
Southbound
On the other hand, if you're taking your car into a shop to have them install speakers... especially a reknowned shop... I'd probably pop for the extra cash to have them custom mount better speakers and or amps, etc. The DX6 mod was intended to be a basic yet effective beginners upgrade with good results, while being simple enough that even unexperienced people could perform the replacement.
Once you take the leap of going to a GOOD shop, you have MANY MANY better options. At that point, it's just a matter of money... and a level of confidence that you have with the shop tearing apart your car, etc.
I really think that you could install the EX365 speakers by yourself if you just go slow, one step at a time. If you still end up going to a shop for comfort sake... then I'd look into jumping up to BETTER speakers. The factory EQ may still be an obstacle that the shop may or may not be willing to deal with. and then, once it's bypassed, you'll find that you really need an extra amp to power the aftermarket speakers... IT's an endless viscious cyle... Nothing is ever good enough, and you will ALWAYS want more!
Good Luck!
Southbound
12-27-2002, 04:00 AM
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Originally posted by ferrari527
Competition sound works quoted me $80 to install 4 EX3650's.
Competition sound works quoted me $80 to install 4 EX3650's.
as far as if its a fair price, im not the person to ask since i dont know what the going rate is
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