SwampGas

I'll be honest...I couldn't even change the headlight in my old '88 Legend (predecessor to my TL).

Anyone have step by step pictures on installing a subwoofer? I have an amp laying around...I have a box laying around...so why not?

So far I've read to remove the back seat, do some wiring nonsense in the pre-amp wire, mess around with a grommet by the brake pedal, and it'll work. Pictures would be nice...

Of course, if anyone around the Harrisburg, PA area knows how...I'll throw you a couple bucks to do it for me...

bigman

Just take it to a good shop and have them install it for like 100 bucs. you wont have to worry about messing anything up. And if you are keeping your stock head unit, they wont even touch it. They will use an rf modulator to tap the signal from the rear subwoofer. Before you buy any parts from these shops or get any work done, make sure you ask us first if you are getting a good deal.

Austin519

SwampGas:
"Just take it to a good shop and have them install it for like 100 bucs."

Oh HELL no...bigman shame on you! I don't have any pictures as of yet...but I can get some in the next month or so. I'm not doing my stereo till then. However it is quite simple to do. Some of the guys who've already followed the instructions I posted may have pictures. If you need a step by step AIM me...but my posts about how to tap the wires should suffice. It's a very painless process...you're looking at 30 mins or so max.

Austin519

SwampGas

I read over them...was going to use them to do it. I'm just really nervous since it's the first time I'm ripping apart a $30,000 toy

Cleaned the car out today (I found that using a vacuum hose with the brush attachment gets the dash/instrument panel spotless...NO dust at all) and was looking for the things you mentioned....screws for the backseat, grommet by the brake pedal...no luck. Can't wait for pics...

After this (assuming I don't destroy it), I want to apply that VTEC light mod and do some research on finding similar hacks. I'm one of those control-freaks who insist on external modems on the PC just to see the lights blink to know what's going on

bigman

Sorry Austin, i did the work myself as i have done several systems before. The reason i told him to take it to a shop is because i have seen plenty of friends wreck ecu's and other major components because of leaving live wires bare and about so, if you are doing it yourself just be really careful and dont put any of the fuses in till your done.

Austin519

bigman:
"Sorry Austin, i did the work myself as i have done several systems before. The reason i told him to take it to a shop is because i have seen plenty of friends wreck ecu's and other major components because of leaving live wires bare and about so, if you are doing it yourself just be really careful and dont put any of the fuses in till your done."

Ha ha bud not at all...I'm just messing with you I have plenty of respect for your abilities.

SwampGas:
The rubber grommet is relatively easy to find...lay down with your legs out the driver side door looking up into the area that the brake pedal connects to the firewall. There is a wall between the e-brake and other pedals...find that wall...then slide your hand up along the brake pedal side of the wall, making a 45 degree turn at the top toward the ebrake with your hand. You should feel the wire bundle coming from the grommet. On the engine bay side...slide your hand down by the right strut tower and make a 45 degree turn towards the passenger side of the car...where you will find the other side. Cut a hole in it.

The wiring is as I said...you pull the bottom cusion out then unscrew the screws on the seat found on either side. Remove the seat and locate the stock amp on the passenger side behind the seat. Cut the brown sheath off of the twisted pair of wires feeding into the amp...use three wire taps and tap the twisted pair, as well as the blue remote wire. Get a crimp on RCA connector and attach the twisted pair to the outer sheath and inner pin, and run the tap wire from the remote wire tap to the amp. There's your signal. Then just run a 4 gauge or 8 gauge (depending on amp size...8ga for 400W or less, 4 ga for 401W or more) + wire up through the trim (which pops off if you pull hard) and the grommet into the engine bay. Get an inline fuse that screws on, and screw it on the end of the wire, with a fuse that's slightly larger than the max current draw of your amp. Cut off another piece of wire...stick it on the other end of the fuse holder, and then clamp an eyering onto the other end. Attach the eyering to the + terminal screw. Take another wire...attach an eyering to one end, plug it into the amp -, then find a screw (rear seatbelt screw is a good choice) and unscrew the screw, thread the screw through the eyehole...and screw it back down.

Done...should take 30 mins, most of which is cutting the grommet

Austin519

SwampGas

Another question...

Is there access to the remote wire from the HU without ripping apart the entire front of the car?

I'd like to tap the wire and run another wire through an on/off switch placed next to my TCS/Cruise buttons...that way, it'll turn on when the stereo is on, but I'd have the ability to turn it off when I feel like it.

Yeah yeah...I'm REAL lazy and don't feel like pulling out the bass knob, turning it down, and pushing it back in. Much easier to just smack a switch and presto...back to stock, non-bass, stereo.