Patch Cable
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Patch Cable
I am looking for a patch cable or the connectors for the DVD player in the trunk, Nav connector C (8P). Any ideas where I can find one? I want to install TravelEyes 2 Personal GPS Vehicle Tracker and need a continuous power source, Terminal 1, and ground, Terminal 4. I am trying to avoid taping the wire. Also does anyone see a problem with doing this? FYI: the fuse for the TravelEyes is 3 amps.
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks,
Mark
#2
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Patch cable? "Patch cable"typically refers to an off-the-shelf sort of cable.
The nav is custom made and the connectors are usually available only in large quantities from Asian suppliers, and then have to be made into cables with wires and pins and such.
Many here have been looking for cables that allow attaching things to the nav, with no luck (I think AV Electronics has something, as long as you buy their entire system).
BTW, taping is NOT your only alternative, and is actually considered by many pros a rookie move. NO matter how good solder-and-tape is supposed to be, it usually looks pretty awful.
The recommendations on the TravelEyes web site are also somewhat inane (battery, fuse box). I would recommend 3M T-taps (red), but I would probably use non-insulated butt connectors and heat shrink. Cutting power to the navi does require like a 5-minute recalibration period on startup without moving, but other than that, it's OK.
Where will it be positioned?
The nav is custom made and the connectors are usually available only in large quantities from Asian suppliers, and then have to be made into cables with wires and pins and such.
Many here have been looking for cables that allow attaching things to the nav, with no luck (I think AV Electronics has something, as long as you buy their entire system).
BTW, taping is NOT your only alternative, and is actually considered by many pros a rookie move. NO matter how good solder-and-tape is supposed to be, it usually looks pretty awful.
The recommendations on the TravelEyes web site are also somewhat inane (battery, fuse box). I would recommend 3M T-taps (red), but I would probably use non-insulated butt connectors and heat shrink. Cutting power to the navi does require like a 5-minute recalibration period on startup without moving, but other than that, it's OK.
Where will it be positioned?
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Originally Posted by elduderino
Cutting power to the navi does require like a 5-minute recalibration period on startup without moving, but other than that, it's OK.
Where will it be positioned?
Where will it be positioned?
Also I did remove the connector and replace it without a 5-minute recalibration period on startup. Will the Nav recalibrate the next time I start the car or do I need to disconnect it again?
Mark
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I think it depends on how long it's unplugged, and the 5 minutes was an estimate. I unplugged it once to take pics of those connectors, and that's what happened to me, but it's a function of when the internal caps discharge and the unit "sees" the power go away.
If you're using velcro under there, you might as well use 3M T-taps.
If you're using velcro under there, you might as well use 3M T-taps.
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Well, I am not sure what you said, but T-taps allw you to unplug your harness very quickly, as you connect your new wire to the t-tap with a male quick disconnect. Read the link closer (too bad there's no picture).
When you want to remove the tap entirely, it takes a few seconds with a pick tool, and then you wrap a piece of tape around the wire to cover the tiny slice in the insulation.
Based on what you are saying, this ais a far better approach than tape. Trust me.
When you want to remove the tap entirely, it takes a few seconds with a pick tool, and then you wrap a piece of tape around the wire to cover the tiny slice in the insulation.
Based on what you are saying, this ais a far better approach than tape. Trust me.
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