haha98

Cascade matting...

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1996 2.5 TL Dark Green
HKS Powerflow, HKS Fuel Pressure Regulator, Sebring Exhaust, Jacobs Pro Street, Apex-i AFC, Jet ECU, PIAA 1100x, Clarion 9255, Tube Driver Amps, Boston Pro 10's (2) , CD Technologies 6-4-2, Clarion 6.4 TV's (3), Cliford Avant Guard 4, Trunk, Underdash and Underbody Neons
No nav yet but soon!!!

goldn1

I'm planning on adding a MTX amp and a couple of 10" subs (not sure which yet) to my CL-S.

But, last night I noticed that even with the stock system - there trunk panels vibrate quite a bit.

Any idea how to reduce the outside vibrations?

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2001 Acura CL Type S, black/ebony, spoiler, 35% tint, V1
goldn1

Guest

My dynamat rep will be furious, but Stinger Pro is the lightest weight, most effective damping mat that I've used. And I have used everyones.

Water Rabbit

I don't know where it ranks on the Dynomat/Stinger Pro continuum, but when I upgraded the stereo in my CL-S the installer did some pretty extensive installation of "Accumat" throughout the car.

It made a significant reduction in noise, but I'd like to make a further attempt to reduce road noise coming from the wheel wells.

I'm wondering if you have had any succcess with spraying 3M or another noise reducing rubber, foam-type substance up into the outside surface of the wheel wells, or do you think the effect would be negligable?

valuetl

a/pTL how does the stinger mats compare price wise with the dynamat stuff?

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00 non navi TL Firepepper red/ebony, Value Sports Kit, Saber Foglamps, Factory rear spoiler, Gold and wood kits, 18" Alstadt's + Dunlop SP9000's, Apexi exhaust, A'pexi coilovers. Next up who knows?

Guest

The stinger pro falls between the super and the extreme price wise, but the overall weight and ease of install kill the dynamat. Unfortunately, I have not been able to find out who actually manufactures the stinger pro (green writing on back) as I am sure that such a discovery would reduce the cost.

haha98

I've tried that stuff and it's just as good as cascade matting. But cascade is cheaper and it weights more, so it's your call weight in your car or weight in your walet???

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1996 2.5 TL Dark Green
HKS Powerflow, HKS Fuel Pressure Regulator, Sebring Exhaust, Jacobs Pro Street, Apex-i AFC, Jet ECU, PIAA 1100x, Clarion 9255, Tube Driver Amps, Boston Pro 10's (2) , CD Technologies 6-4-2, Clarion 6.4 TV's (3), Cliford Avant Guard 4, Trunk, Underdash and Underbody Neons
No nav yet but soon!!!

Guest

I use a lot of rubberized undercoating for kick panels, floor speakers or any time that I am making any modifications to the floor of a vehicle. Other than those times, I will stick with spray on sound deadening, a much bigger pain, but much more effective.

StreetEffectz

As far as outside vibration is concerned, I would personally skip the dynamay/cascade spray methods, and use 4-5" foam behind the carpeting in the trunk. The problem is in between the outside panels of the car, and the inside of the trunk is hollow. You need to stiffen the outside panels up. Dynamat and spray won't really do this. Don't get me wrong, I use dynamat and cascade sprays, but after that, I still put foam in to stiffen the panels and eliminate most, if not all, outside vibrations.

haha98

The mat is so much better than the spray stuff. The foam in the panels also does a good job.

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1996 2.5 TL Dark Green
HKS Powerflow, HKS Fuel Pressure Regulator, Sebring Exhaust, Jacobs Pro Street, Apex-i AFC, Jet ECU, PIAA 1100x, Clarion 9255, Tube Driver Amps, Boston Pro 10's (2) , CD Technologies 6-4-2, Clarion 6.4 TV's (3), Cliford Avant Guard 4, Trunk, Underdash and Underbody Neons
No nav yet but soon!!!

Guest

While the mat is easier to apply, no taping or overspray concerns, it cannot be used in all aplications. Unless you remove the door skin, taping and spraying is the only way to go. Foam is empty spaces works well and so does industrial insulation. Pink, but effective. Just wrap it up and tape it together. Just another thought.