Need advice on system
09-13-2003, 02:15 AM
#1
aka gimmesomesugar
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Need advice on system
Just out of curiosity, if somebody were to go with the following setup:
-Pioneer DEH-P8500MP headunit
-Pioneer CDX-P680 6-disc changer
-Focal 165 K2 components (front)
-Focal 130 V2 components (rear)
-JL Audio 300/4 4-channel amp
-JL Audio 10W7 subs (X2)
-JL Audio 500/1 monoblock amps (X2)
Which of the following things are necessary and which are a complete waste of money:
-Audio Control EQS Equalizer
-Audio Control 6XS Crossover
-1.0 farad capacitors (X2)
-high output alternator or recoiled stock alternator
-Pioneer DEH-P8500MP headunit
-Pioneer CDX-P680 6-disc changer
-Focal 165 K2 components (front)
-Focal 130 V2 components (rear)
-JL Audio 300/4 4-channel amp
-JL Audio 10W7 subs (X2)
-JL Audio 500/1 monoblock amps (X2)
Which of the following things are necessary and which are a complete waste of money:
-Audio Control EQS Equalizer
-Audio Control 6XS Crossover
-1.0 farad capacitors (X2)
-high output alternator or recoiled stock alternator
09-13-2003, 07:01 AM
#2
Bagged hybrid
That's a pretty good setup, I guess you like bass. 
As for the EQ & Xover, it depends how picky you are about your sound and how they mix together from different locations. If you want a lot of control, you should get them.
I ran a 300/4 and a 500/1 before and my cabin light dim when the sub hits hard. A 1F cap fixed that, but you might need a 2F or higher one. If you decide to get one, get a distrubution block also. The other option would be getting your alternator recoiled if you want to run more stuff later on.
As for the EQ & Xover, it depends how picky you are about your sound and how they mix together from different locations. If you want a lot of control, you should get them.
I ran a 300/4 and a 500/1 before and my cabin light dim when the sub hits hard. A 1F cap fixed that, but you might need a 2F or higher one. If you decide to get one, get a distrubution block also. The other option would be getting your alternator recoiled if you want to run more stuff later on.
09-13-2003, 09:39 AM
#3
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Originally posted by ronnie0738
That's a pretty good setup, I guess you like bass.
As for the EQ & Xover, it depends how picky you are about your sound and how they mix together from different locations. If you want a lot of control, you should get them.
I ran a 300/4 and a 500/1 before and my cabin light dim when the sub hits hard. A 1F cap fixed that, but you might need a 2F or higher one. If you decide to get one, get a distrubution block also. The other option would be getting your alternator recoiled if you want to run more stuff later on.
That's a pretty good setup, I guess you like bass.
As for the EQ & Xover, it depends how picky you are about your sound and how they mix together from different locations. If you want a lot of control, you should get them.
I ran a 300/4 and a 500/1 before and my cabin light dim when the sub hits hard. A 1F cap fixed that, but you might need a 2F or higher one. If you decide to get one, get a distrubution block also. The other option would be getting your alternator recoiled if you want to run more stuff later on.
I'm getting two 1.0 farad caps. Would I still need them if I recoil my alternator?
The stock alternator output is 120 amp max. If I do recoil my alternator, what would be a sufficient output?
What's a distribution block? I don't know if I have one yet...but, there's a good chance I do.
09-13-2003, 11:00 AM
#4
Bagged hybrid
If you're into SQ and your HU doesn't have those adjustments, then I would get them. I think 1 12W6v2 would have better SQ than two 10W7s.
You could still get the caps b/c they discharge very fast (good for sub amps), but probably not a necessary.
You can recoil to 180 and that would be very good. Check what's the max current draw from your amps.
Distribution block is basically a splitter for power wires (ex. one input from battery splits into 3 outputs to 3 different amps). Here's a pic of one.
You could still get the caps b/c they discharge very fast (good for sub amps), but probably not a necessary.
You can recoil to 180 and that would be very good. Check what's the max current draw from your amps.
Distribution block is basically a splitter for power wires (ex. one input from battery splits into 3 outputs to 3 different amps). Here's a pic of one.
09-13-2003, 06:18 PM
#6
an adult perspective
IMHO, 2 10W7's (plus the amps to drive them) are overkill. 1 10W7 feed by 1 500/1 is more than you'll ever need, unless you're intent on entertaining the neighboring county and/or causing premature deafness. as far as the EQ question, I'd tend to agree with what ronnie said, but this really depends upon what it is that you are ultimately looking to accomplish. if the H/U has better than average compensation for the bass/mid/treb control, than it is an unnecessary expense ... if it has nothing more than than the equivalent to a bass/treble pot, than an EQ is essential, as any x-overs will not do the job alone. ultimately, it depends upon what you are after ... SPL or SQ. personally speaking - I've never had an install that didn't include some sort of DSP or EQ, because one needs to be able to adjust to any bias that the recording process has imposed on the medium you're listening to - beit radio, tape or disc.
09-14-2003, 01:39 AM
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Originally posted by wuzzz619
You're looking for SQ with only 75 watts/channel with those 2 W7's???
You're looking for SQ with only 75 watts/channel with those 2 W7's???
Originally posted by Y2K3CL-S
IMHO, 2 10W7's (plus the amps to drive them) are overkill. 1 10W7 feed by 1 500/1 is more than you'll ever need, unless you're intent on entertaining the neighboring county and/or causing premature deafness. as far as the EQ question, I'd tend to agree with what ronnie said, but this really depends upon what it is that you are ultimately looking to accomplish. if the H/U has better than average compensation for the bass/mid/treb control, than it is an unnecessary expense ... if it has nothing more than than the equivalent to a bass/treble pot, than an EQ is essential, as any x-overs will not do the job alone. ultimately, it depends upon what you are after ... SPL or SQ. personally speaking - I've never had an install that didn't include some sort of DSP or EQ, because one needs to be able to adjust to any bias that the recording process has imposed on the medium you're listening to - beit radio, tape or disc.
IMHO, 2 10W7's (plus the amps to drive them) are overkill. 1 10W7 feed by 1 500/1 is more than you'll ever need, unless you're intent on entertaining the neighboring county and/or causing premature deafness. as far as the EQ question, I'd tend to agree with what ronnie said, but this really depends upon what it is that you are ultimately looking to accomplish. if the H/U has better than average compensation for the bass/mid/treb control, than it is an unnecessary expense ... if it has nothing more than than the equivalent to a bass/treble pot, than an EQ is essential, as any x-overs will not do the job alone. ultimately, it depends upon what you are after ... SPL or SQ. personally speaking - I've never had an install that didn't include some sort of DSP or EQ, because one needs to be able to adjust to any bias that the recording process has imposed on the medium you're listening to - beit radio, tape or disc.
The head unit is not all that great in terms of SQ compared to my old Alpine 7893. I just bought it because it was so gimmicky...a motorized sliding split-screen. That's why I'm switching to Focal components as well. The Alpine Type R's just aren't cutting it anymore...too much noise/static/etc.
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09-14-2003, 03:15 PM
#8
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Originally posted by Satin Slayer
Huh? Each 10W7 will be powered by a 500/1. The 300/4 is for the components inside the cabin.
I've been running one 10W7 and a 500/1 for the past couple months. The SPL just isn't there for my liking. I don't crank it all the time...maybe once in a blue moon, but when I do I just don't get that satisfaction that I used to get with my two 10" RF HX2's.
The head unit is not all that great in terms of SQ compared to my old Alpine 7893. I just bought it because it was so gimmicky...a motorized sliding split-screen. That's why I'm switching to Focal components as well. The Alpine Type R's just aren't cutting it anymore...too much noise/static/etc.
Huh? Each 10W7 will be powered by a 500/1. The 300/4 is for the components inside the cabin.
I've been running one 10W7 and a 500/1 for the past couple months. The SPL just isn't there for my liking. I don't crank it all the time...maybe once in a blue moon, but when I do I just don't get that satisfaction that I used to get with my two 10" RF HX2's.
The head unit is not all that great in terms of SQ compared to my old Alpine 7893. I just bought it because it was so gimmicky...a motorized sliding split-screen. That's why I'm switching to Focal components as well. The Alpine Type R's just aren't cutting it anymore...too much noise/static/etc.
What I mean't was that you prob won't even be able to hear the components with all that bass. If I were you I'd run more power to your speakers.
09-14-2003, 03:57 PM
#9
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Originally posted by wuzzz619
What I mean't was that you prob won't even be able to hear the components with all that bass. If I were you I'd run more power to your speakers.
What I mean't was that you prob won't even be able to hear the components with all that bass. If I were you I'd run more power to your speakers.
Well, I could go with the 450/4 but that's a significant price increase from the 300/4.
To offset that cost...
Would I have any electrical problems if I omit the two caps and just go with the updated alternator?
Would SQ be significantly altered if I leave out the crossover, too?
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