link to pictures of 2005 TSX completed install
#1
Cruisin'
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link to pictures of 2005 TSX completed install
So I finally finished the hard part of installing my system. I just have to swap out the front door speakers and it'll be what I like to think of as done for this iteration. Yes, it'll all get upgraded at some point, I'm sure. A link to the pictures page:
05 TSX Sound System Installation
I've also included a few links to where I got the LED's and carpet on that page. The amps don't seem to have very good voltage regulation on them (no surprise for what I paid), though they do sound good overall. Probably will be the first thing I upgrade. Whenever I turn any power hungry accessory on the initial power draw causes a short "dropout" from the amps. D'oh!
I've got a friend who said he could loan me a cap to throw in there until I get around to upgrading the amps to see if that helps. This is definitely a transient type of issue, so I'm thinking the cap might help (I realize that capacitors don't supply "magic" power, and don't increase power available or anything like that, but are commonly used in voltage regulation applications.) If anyone has suggestions or comments on this idea, please let me know.
Now, I know that we have an alternator on the TSX that puts out roughly 105A, and it's typically assumed that the car uses between 60 and 80% of that, allowing for some extra. I have only added the two amplifiers one 200W RMS (2x100) and the other 240W RMS (4x60). So theoretically I could be drawing as much as 17A + 20A = 37A from that (using 12V to calculate.) The LED's are drawing no more than 40mA total , so not even worth considering. That brings me to about 35% of our alternator output when I've got the level cranked.
Thoughts? Suggestions?
05 TSX Sound System Installation
I've also included a few links to where I got the LED's and carpet on that page. The amps don't seem to have very good voltage regulation on them (no surprise for what I paid), though they do sound good overall. Probably will be the first thing I upgrade. Whenever I turn any power hungry accessory on the initial power draw causes a short "dropout" from the amps. D'oh!
I've got a friend who said he could loan me a cap to throw in there until I get around to upgrading the amps to see if that helps. This is definitely a transient type of issue, so I'm thinking the cap might help (I realize that capacitors don't supply "magic" power, and don't increase power available or anything like that, but are commonly used in voltage regulation applications.) If anyone has suggestions or comments on this idea, please let me know.
Now, I know that we have an alternator on the TSX that puts out roughly 105A, and it's typically assumed that the car uses between 60 and 80% of that, allowing for some extra. I have only added the two amplifiers one 200W RMS (2x100) and the other 240W RMS (4x60). So theoretically I could be drawing as much as 17A + 20A = 37A from that (using 12V to calculate.) The LED's are drawing no more than 40mA total , so not even worth considering. That brings me to about 35% of our alternator output when I've got the level cranked.
Thoughts? Suggestions?
#3
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Dude, it's obvious that you went to a lot of work.
I have two questions:
1) What's the internal volume of that box? It looks like behind-the-seat truck box - hoping it's the right volume.
2) I just can't say that securing 4GA wire under the car in a rubber hose with wire ties holding it to the brake lines sounds like a good idea. I'm sure it was a LOT easier than running 4GA inside the car to the trunk... but I'd be really worried about a wire tie letting go, a loop of wire sagging, and the brake line getting tugged on at speed. I also am not confident in the protective ability of rubber hose against road debris.
If the rest of your work is all done, it's not much more work to re-route that 4GA, and I'd strongly suggest it.
I have two questions:
1) What's the internal volume of that box? It looks like behind-the-seat truck box - hoping it's the right volume.
2) I just can't say that securing 4GA wire under the car in a rubber hose with wire ties holding it to the brake lines sounds like a good idea. I'm sure it was a LOT easier than running 4GA inside the car to the trunk... but I'd be really worried about a wire tie letting go, a loop of wire sagging, and the brake line getting tugged on at speed. I also am not confident in the protective ability of rubber hose against road debris.
If the rest of your work is all done, it's not much more work to re-route that 4GA, and I'd strongly suggest it.
#4
Originally Posted by elduderino
Dude, it's obvious that you went to a lot of work.
I have two questions:
1) What's the internal volume of that box? It looks like behind-the-seat truck box - hoping it's the right volume.
2) I just can't say that securing 4GA wire under the car in a rubber hose with wire ties holding it to the brake lines sounds like a good idea. I'm sure it was a LOT easier than running 4GA inside the car to the trunk... but I'd be really worried about a wire tie letting go, a loop of wire sagging, and the brake line getting tugged on at speed. I also am not confident in the protective ability of rubber hose against road debris.
If the rest of your work is all done, it's not much more work to re-route that 4GA, and I'd strongly suggest it.
I have two questions:
1) What's the internal volume of that box? It looks like behind-the-seat truck box - hoping it's the right volume.
2) I just can't say that securing 4GA wire under the car in a rubber hose with wire ties holding it to the brake lines sounds like a good idea. I'm sure it was a LOT easier than running 4GA inside the car to the trunk... but I'd be really worried about a wire tie letting go, a loop of wire sagging, and the brake line getting tugged on at speed. I also am not confident in the protective ability of rubber hose against road debris.
If the rest of your work is all done, it's not much more work to re-route that 4GA, and I'd strongly suggest it.
#5
Cruisin'
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Originally Posted by elduderino
Dude, it's obvious that you went to a lot of work.
I have two questions:
1) What's the internal volume of that box? It looks like behind-the-seat truck box - hoping it's the right volume.
I have two questions:
1) What's the internal volume of that box? It looks like behind-the-seat truck box - hoping it's the right volume.
Originally Posted by elduderino
2) I just can't say that securing 4GA wire under the car in a rubber hose with wire ties holding it to the brake lines sounds like a good idea. I'm sure it was a LOT easier than running 4GA inside the car to the trunk... but I'd be really worried about a wire tie letting go, a loop of wire sagging, and the brake line getting tugged on at speed. I also am not confident in the protective ability of rubber hose against road debris.
If the rest of your work is all done, it's not much more work to re-route that 4GA, and I'd strongly suggest it.
If the rest of your work is all done, it's not much more work to re-route that 4GA, and I'd strongly suggest it.
#6
Cruisin'
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So I realize this thread has been dead for 4 years, but thought I'd give an update on how it's holding up. Every time I have the car up on the lift for an oil change / tire rotation, I do a walk under and check everything. None of the zip ties have even started to come loose, and there are no chips or signs of wear on the hose containing the wire.
By comparison, the factory installed O2 sensor wire on OEM harnesses has been ripped off the car three times by these New England roads... Last time, I used zip-ties on that as well instead of spending $20+ on a new harness, and haven't had a problem with it for over 2 years now.
Oh yeah, and please don't crucify me for resurrecting a dead thread.
By comparison, the factory installed O2 sensor wire on OEM harnesses has been ripped off the car three times by these New England roads... Last time, I used zip-ties on that as well instead of spending $20+ on a new harness, and haven't had a problem with it for over 2 years now.
Oh yeah, and please don't crucify me for resurrecting a dead thread.
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